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Ford Focus: Problems & Solutions
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On many of these cars, in the early days, the spring just snapped. In my car, I heard a "sproing" and half of it landed on my shoe. The clutch pedal would not rise more than an inch or so off the floor, but worked. The dealer said it was ok to drive straight there. The spring was replaced under warranty. A simple part, but possibly hard to access - I haven't looked.
Good luck.
Again, there isn't any noticeable performance change during the noise.... BUT, I have noticed some unrelated hesitation from the tranny when driving right around 65-70mph. I'm wondering if this is perhaps some sort of break-point for overdrive and the trans can't make up its mind on which gear to be in? (though the car certainly should be in O/D at 65mph!!)
the diagram to me please. Thanks Deb
debba341@hotmail.com
Hope this helps.
-bernie
Did you figure out the problem?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Gene
Thanks
Robert
Before you ask: It's explained in your owner's manual.
Meade
felix
Replacing the valve cover gasket cleared up the problem for me. Because you only get a slight smell of burning oil it is, perhaps, only left-over oil on the exhaust manifold.
-bernie
I got the base from them and it only cost about 5 bucks. I was going to order an antenna on the web (Ford wanted 30 bucks or so for this piece) but as it turned out, my local mechanic was able to salvage my old antenna (he got the piece out that was stuck in their after the break.)
I tryed replacing the base on my own before bringing it to the dealer, but got stuck at the point I needed to remove the Torx thingo from the antenna base. Just could not get to it properly with the limited tools I had.
My local guy charged my 40 bucks to replace the base...but he did salvage the antenna and saved my a few bucks there.
I hate taking it, because I never know when it's going to happen.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks from Nova Scotia, Canada
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm
Thanks.
Exact same fail
Judging by the amount of problems reported to this site alone this is a manufacturing defect.
I thought i saw someone mention a place to report this to, I would love to sign up and get this item listed as a defect.
I called FORD who wanted between $350 and $650 to fix the problem.
I call AAA, who connected me to a lock smith.
I am new to the forums so I don't know if the problem I am having has been discussed before. If it has, I apologize.
On to my problem. Over the last 2 months I have been experiencing a noise/hum/vibration in my 2002 Ford Focus ZX3. i bought the car used with 30,000 miles on it back in November 2004 and it now has 44,000 miles on it.
At first I thought the noise was the new tires I just had put on and thought that one, maybe one of the tires hadn't been properly balanced and two, being a new tire I thought maybe the tread pattern on the tire was creating the hum. I had heard of that happening before and usually goes away after a few thousand miles. To further explain my last sentence, the tires I bought have an aggressive "V" shaped tread pattern to them.
Well i got the tires looked at where I bought them, and they said that the tires looked fine and they checked the balance on them. It all came back fine. Also, when I am pulling out of a parking space or turning the wheel sharply while going really slow, like under 10-15mph, it sounds like one of the tires is rubbing against something like the inner liner in the fender well or something like that. But the Tire Dealer didn't see anything to suggest that either.
But now the noise/hum/vibration has gotten worse. Once I get to 45mph, the hum gets loud, and the vibration starts to shake the steering wheel. If I am on the interstate around 65-70mph, the hum/noise is so loud it drowns out everything and the vibration is worse. So I thought that maybe I had a wheel bearing gone bad or a CV joint in the front going bad. Almost feels like the right front wheel was "jumping" or "bouncing" up and down a little to cause the vibration. But the front tires do not show any excessive wear to suggest this.
So I had the car looked at yesterday by my mechanic. He looked at everything on the front, tires, wheels, CV Joints, and he took it for a drive and then had the owner of the garage take it for a drive. They couldn't find anything wrong in the front of the car and their only theories were that either a gear in the transaxle was bad or going bad or the noise was coming from one of the rear tires. Well it turns out that the left rear hub bearing has gone bad but I still dont think that is the big problem. I can see where if that bad bearing is causing the noise and hum that it could sound like it is coming from a different part of the car. Once the car is moving, the hum or noise could travel through out the entir car. My mechanic couldn't see anything about the tire rub sound I mentioned either.
Has anyone else had any problems like this? I want to get rid of this car so bad I hate it. I have never had anything but problems with Fords and I will never own another one.
Here are it's ailments in chronological order
1. Brakes - crappy brakes, replaced by more crappy brakes. Finally went to a different mechanic and they've been great ever since
2. The driver's door got stuck in the open position - eventually they replaced the door, but it took them 3 weeks to do it. They kept taking pictures and sending them off for approval and ordering one part at a time (like they'd get one part in and figure out it needed 2 more parts to make it work!!!)
3. Alternator crapped out at 40,000. This is of course, not covered by warrantee, so I got it replaced at PepBoys (for $500 cheaper than Ford was asking) This was 2 weeks ago.
Now the new one...
Driving along tonite. The car suddenly shudders and all the gages go to 0. I mean everything. No lights, no needles. But....the radio is playing and the car is still techincally going until I slowed way down. Tried to restart it and heard click click click. Opened the hood and looked at it (like I know what I'm looking for) and then shut it again. Wow! It started again and the gages were normal...only to clunk again and then die in the middle of the road when I had to stop for a light and stay dead for 5 minutes before starting up again. Not to mention that the transmission was acting crazy when the gages were out. We limped home and here I am. I am no officially scared of my car. Does this sound like anything that has happened to any of you? If so, what was it, and was it covered by warranty (I am broke from the alternator!)
Jan
My mom recently had an ailling 2002 Neon with similar ghost problems. Instead of going to the dealer, she limped to a gas station which replaced the battery. Then the problems persisted so she replaced the alternator (why wasn't the battery enough to supplement the deficient alternator). Then it turned out to bethe voltage regulator, but that is now part of the computer module, so she had to replace the computer, which was costly. My guess is, the battery and the alternator were never bad, it was always the regulator. I am not saying that is the case here, only that your car's computer system sounds starved for the right power and since Pep Boys diagnosed a bad alternator, start with them, it should be free, or free plus a battery (it's about time for a battery for you).
Eugene
New York
Eugene
New York
when entering a small curb cut.
How would a 2005 Focus ZX4/Sedan compare to a Honda Civic for reliability? (not the si)
I want a Civic. But I've been offered a 2005 Focus for less than 10,000 depending on the model I want because I know the dealer..
But I keep hearing that the 2003 and 2004s are :lemon: s and not worth it at all.. I can't find much info anywhere on the ZX4, Not even a forum on Edmunds for it. Just consumer reviews where it gets a 9.. I don't really trust it though...
I picked up a 2005 ZX5 a couple of weeks back and am somewhat disappointed. Even after 10 minutes on the highway in moderate 23C / 73F weather, the A/C never gets anywhere near icy cold. On hot days, it barely cools the cabin down to a tolerable temperature.
Dealer said system had no leaks, refrigerant level fine, etc. I checked the temp. in the vents with a portable digital sensor and the air was blowing at about 7.5C / 45 F.
Someone told me these A/C systems aren't as powerful as others in the automotive world so as to minimize the mileage/performance penalty when the system is running. Any truth to this?
Been too busy with work, driving, and a little camping. I still read the forums when I get a chance, but haven't posted much lately. Yes, the little Focus has been named Zippy.........since she was about 3 days old. Will turn 37k this week, no problems to speak of, just a great little car that's still a blast to drive.
BTW, we hit 80+ today. I was grumbling big time about no A/C in Zippy, had to be 120 in that car.........darn black interior!
going tomorrow to change my radio and I will try the MP3 at the dealership to see what it does.
Yimmer
Will be updating the outcome real soon
I own a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3. I recently tried to replace my turn signal bulbs. I have read the manual and removed both screws as described above, yet the housing does not want to come off. I have applied some force to the point where now I'm afraid I'm going to break the plastic on the housing. Am I missing something here?
Thanks.
I own a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3. I recently tried to replace my turn signal bulbs. I have read the manual and removed both screws as described (one that is visible when the hatch is open, and the plactic "wingnut" from inside the luggage compartment), yet the housing does not want to come off. I have applied some force to the point where now I'm afraid I'm going to break the plastic on the housing. Am I missing something here? Did you have any luck in changing them?
Thanks.
3 weeks ago (6/3/05) I drove away with a new 2005 ZX5 SES. I had poor gas mileage from the start. The sales woman said she filled the tank the day before, but seeing the gas gae needle drop, I wasn't so sure. I began tracking the maileage with the next tank.
The first 3 tanks went like this 25.68 mpg; 28.72; and then 17.56!! At this point I had 986 miles on the car. 37 miles later, the car overheats on a major Interstate and I'm towed into a nearby Ford dealer. The next day, when they look at the car, they discover that it has practically NO coolant. The technician tells me that he had to add 1-1/2 gal. of coolant! The Service Manager surmises that the Dealer did not do the Pre-Destination inspection (PDI) before giving me the car. I ask and they perform a complete PDI. I told the Service Manager about my lousy gas mileage and he says this could be related to improper cooling, running hot, etc.
I've driven the car another 150 miles and refueled with the latest results of 25.93 mpg.
I have a few concerns at this point: 1) Has the engine suffered permanent damage from driving it 1000 miles with very little coolant? 2) If the poor mileage is not "fixed" by having a proper coolant level, what's to be done? On this last point, I intend to make the point with Ford Motor Co. and the Dealer that this performance (and car) is not what I bought and paid for.
I know my situation differs from yours, but your 12 years of litigation experience intrigued me. Any thoughts on the possible damage from no coolant or a tact to take with Ford?
All constructive advice appreciated.
JFC
Most people seem to get milage in the high 20s. Turn the a/c off, put it in 5th whenever possible, don't redline every gear, and you should see improvements.
There is a easy fix for this, and can be made in two ways, either of which will take < 15 minutes/ seat.
The first and cheap fix is to get some foam and stuff the seat back. I would recommend a high grade carpet pad from Lowes or Home Depot. Tip the seat forward and use a small flat blade screw driver to open the plastic clip on the bottom of the seat back. This clip has a lip on each of the two sides that catches to hold secure. after this latch open, recline the seat, you can reach up inside the seat back to position the foam. There are 3 layers to the seat back, 1-cloth cover, 2-foam pad, 3-spring supports. I recommend placing your pad beneath the foam, on top of the springs, using zipties or tyewraps. Now tip seat forward again, pull edges together and latch plastic clip.
The second method is performed the same way but gives an adjustable lumbar support. Purchase the manual pneumatic lumbar supports from Lyon's upholstery shop online. Cost was $76.00 for two units including shipping. They are quick to ship and easy to work with. Install as previously described, leading the hoses to the center console by the hand brake. I used two tyewrapps per lumbar support to hold in place.
This fix will make a real difference for the older persons such as my self, on trips.
Once the pneumatic supports are in place it looks like a factory install.