Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Focus Transmission Problems



  • I am currently having this problem with what do you know the exact same car same year everything, i was told this morning it is my reverse gear idle.
  • dunes09dunes09 Posts: 3
    edited October 2011
    Just had a question. I was driving my wife's 2006 focus with an auto transmission, it seems that it over revs when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. If she lets off the gas it will slowly go into 3rd gear then quickly changes to 4th gear. I am wondering if this is a solenoid issue or gear issue in the transmission? We have never had the transmission filter changed either. This is the first issue we have had and the car has over 90,000 miles on it. Any input would be appreciated! Also, there are no check engine lights and every other gears change is fine. Can a solenoid go bad with no check engine light?
    Now the O/D light is flashing!?! Help!!
  • I am having the same issue I just dont know which solenoid to replace. It revs when switching from 1st to 2nd and catches hard. Then does it a little bit in 3rd. I am getting irritated :mad: trying to figure this out. When I went to Oreilly's to run the codes on it I came up with P1120 (TPS) I changed that out and its no different except now it doesnt stall on me. Any advice before I go blow my money? :sick: Thanks Ford... :lemon:
  • kingnick213kingnick213 Posts: 12
    edited October 2011
    solenoids a/b, but as always I just suggest replacing the whole lot but that depends on your financial situation, its about $140 for all of them on ebay here's a diagram - - .jpg
    Also Solenoids A/B are the ones with the green tabs on them when you pop the pan off. The longer you drive it without replacing them, the more you will wear down bands causing it to slip every now and then even after replacement of the solenoids. - 32186?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aabd9699a
    Exact guy I bought mine from, took me 2 hours including replacement of the filter and fluid.
    Also just an add, I had no codes when it happened to me, started out slipping and then the O/D started flashing.
    -And if anyone is interested whats happening is the solenoid is not opening completely which isn't allowing enough fluid to travel through the valve body to the clutch packs and servos, automatic transmissions work off hydraulic pressure to mechanical force, the pressure from the fluid locks up either a clutch pack(metal plates against a friction disk) or forces a servo against band which gives you gear reduction, direct drive or overdrive. Just and FYI that might help when going to a tranny shop.
  • Well it threw code P0772 Solenoid E stuck open. I dropped the pan and swapped out the solenoid and filter. Slapped it all back together and STILL slipping from 2nd to 3rd. But O/D light isn't flashing anymore and no check engine light. I am very frustrated!!!!
  • Yeah that's why I just suggest replacing all of them, I replaced them all at around 60k miles, no problems now and I'm at 92k miles. I've done the same thing, I replaced the pressure control solenoid, then solenoid b, it wasn't until I replaced the rest of them that it had no more problems, just make sure if you do decide to change the rest, you change the filter and fluid too. If that filter gets clogged, there's going to be less pressure and line pressure in an automatic transmission is everything.
  • I will try that and report back in a couple of days! Thank you!
  • kingnick213kingnick213 Posts: 12
    edited October 2011
    This is for anyone who keeps getting automatic transmission problems on the ford focus. Its a equipped with and MTX-75 Auto Transmission, If your vehicle has less than 100k miles and its having trouble engaging 1-2 or 2-3 or even overdrive, it's most likely one or more of the solenoids. The car has 6 solenoids which allow lockup of the clutches and bands, if they are not opening to allow fluid pressure, you won't be able to change gears or it will be delayed. The best thing to do is by all of the solenoids off ebay for $140 here's the link - - - - 32186?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aabd9699a
    Next buy the fluid and filter from any auto parts place, it will come with the gasket.
    1-Drop the tranny pan, its on the drivers side under the vehicle
    2-once the pan is down you will notice all the solenoids, the 2 green ones are the same along with the black ones on the opposite side, so you can't screw it up. The black one next to the 2 green is the pressure control solenoid, just unscrew and un-clip each solenoid replacing it as you go, the 3 solenoids on the drivers side that are the same, there is a bracket that holds them in place, remove and replace all of them one by one.
    3-replace the filter, remove the temp sensor attached to it, replace the filter and re-attached the temp sensor-sounds hard but it's self explanatory.
    4-replace the pan and blots with the new gasket(you can use gasket maker as an alternative), torquing them down to 75 inch pounds, if you don't have a torque wrench just tighten them in a star pattern to what you feel is snug.
    5-Replace the fluid you drained, about 4 quarts, to measure the fluid you took out, take pan you used to drain into and fill a quart bottle as many times as necessary to find out how much you took out. DO NOT OVERFILL.
    6-start the vehicle, with you foot on the brake, go through each gear, 1-2-3-D-R-N twice. Once done, wait 5 minutes(has to be warm) and check the fluid using the dipstick, check both sides of the dipstick, the side that is lower is correct. Fill until it is between the lines. Again do not overfill, its better to under-fill a little and top it off after each check.
    7-Test drive and recheck fluid level
    Note-here is a diagram of the solenoids - - g
    -Also the reason I say below 100k miles is after that, the friction material on the clutch disks and bands will begin to wear down and need to be replaced which is a whole different animal, it involves disassembling the transmission(basically a rebuild), a bit sick of people getting screwed over by shops who don't know how to fix these simple problems, you would be amazed at how many shops don't actually know how an automatic transmission works, they just throw parts at it.
    -If after you change all the solenoids and it works but still does a minor slip every once in a blue moon, this is because the bands have slipped so much it's wore some of the friction material off, this will happen every now and then until the transmission is rebuilt but it will get you from a to b for a good 50k miles, if it doesn't your good.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    that's right..if you have a lot of slippage, rather than delays or no-shifts, it's probably not the solenoids.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • It has been slipping like everyone else has been talking about and hesitating to shift. Last night while I was driving it jerked and started making this awful grinding noise. I stopped cause I also need new sway bars and I thought that it might be the problem. When I tried to go again I put it into gear and it took a few seconds to actually do it and it made the grinning noise when it did. So I put it back into park and it did the same noise. Do I need a whole new transmission?
  • Hi all, I have up to now been enjoying my first ever brand new car - an automatic 2011 Ford Focus LX which I got just over 4 months ago. I'm fairly heavy on the kms and next week I expect to hit the 15000km mark.
    Since the car reached about 9000kms, I've been having trouble with the transmission - or, perhaps not! I can be driving quite sedately, in a straight line even, when suddenly the "Transmission Malfunction" warning alarm comes onto my odometer screen, and the DSC warning light illuminates on the dash. The funny thing is, that despite all the bells and alarms, the car just keeps on driving normally! No "limp home" mode, no problems with gear changes - nothing. Once I've turned the engine off, the whole lot resets and when I start up again it's like nothing ever happened.
    I've had it into the dealership THREE times now and they haven't been able to fix it. After the second visit, the car went wild, to the point where the transmission malfunction would re-alarm if someone got out of the passenger side and firmly closed the door - but still no issues with it's driveability! So, back it went and they changed a switch, and checked all the earthing wires, but low and behold, two days later the fault reappeared.
    Today I just happened to be driving past a Ford Dealership when the Christmas tree lit up, and this time both the DSC and Engine Warning lights lit up on the dash, the latter of which is now on permanently (as happened also after the second dealership visit). Without turning off the engine, I asked them to download the codes for me and these are what they got:
    P0700 - 63 - PCM
    P0705 - FF - TCM
    P1702 - FF - TCM
    U2023 - AD(?) - AB (J or 5 or S, I can't quite read it)?
    I had to pick up my daughter and the Transmission Malfunction alarm went off on my way and then again when she closed to boot after putting in her schoolbag and once more when she closed the rear passenger door after getting in the car. It sounds like an electrical fault, but they say they've checked the wiring, clearly to no avail.
    The only other thing that I can find is the possibility that there is a battery problem which causes the transmission to reset. But would that throw the codes above?
    Has anyone had this kind of problem or provide some hints as to how to fix it???
  • I was in town at a red light. When i took off, i made it into the median when the car just stopped pulling. It would not go into any gears at all. It was like it was stuck in neutral in all gears. When i pushed the gas it made a metal spinning sound for a few minutes then nothing. I had to coast it back into the turning lane. Thank god i was on a hill. It is an automatic. It is full on fluid. Now when i try to put it into gear, it sounds like it wants to go into gear, it just does not pull at all. There are no lights flashing or anything. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset the computer, the security light started flashing again but that was it. I can not afford a big mechanic bill. If anyone can help me figure out what the problem is, i would really appreciate it. I do not mind doing the work myself if it is something i can do. Thanks in advance.
  • I have had this loud rumbling noise in my 01 Ford Focus for about a year now, and still looks like new. The faster we go the louder it gets, loudest at 60 MPH. We have had this car for 4 years, it has 170,000 miles, It has been a good car with no problems but usual maintenance, I have pulled the bad ball joints, the axles and bearings and they feel good yet, but when I pulled the drive axles out, I looked inside and tried to turn the output bearing with my fingers, the axles displayed some blue coloring of over heating where the drive axles contact the transaxle output bearings, the gears did turn freely inside. My question is does this transmission have output bearings or bushings? Are they suppose to turn freely? And is this a problem anyone have heard of or dealt with? Thanks, Todd
  • I was having the same issue with my 2005 ford focus and replaced the solenoids from the company that you linked, I swapped out all the solenoids and it didn't cure the problem. My vehicle won't shift into second or overdrive still. Before I took it apart I had a code for solenoid L stuck open. Any one else having the same issue? Any help that might work? Thanks
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Did you scan it for all trouble codes first??
    Why did you swap ALL solenoids??
    "L" being open could be external electrical also...wire or connection.
  • Yes I pulled the codes and the only one that came up was solenoid L was stuck open. It looked like it was a similar problem as those that were on here so I took the chance and replaced all of them since they were original. I'm curious what wiring or connections I should look at or how I can test some of them. The connection at the solenoid looked good so it's not in the tranny. What are some of your thoughts.
  • I have a friend at my dealers Parts Dept, when I griped at his price for a Tranny Filter & Gasket he told me this.

    "Go to O'Riely's or NAPA, their stuff is good, NEVER buy a Autozone or Advance Transmission filter as they sometimes have a cardboard like dust substance that can plug up orifices or cause other issues "

    He is not the First to warn me about buying tranny filters from those guys.

    For the cost of repairing a transmission, I suggest paying a couple dollars more and get em from the two I mentioned, OR get em at the dealer.

  • I suggest taking an "alternative" vehicle to some dealers and "Test Drive" several other cars with the same driveline as yours.

    Note the vibration or lack of in the wheel..

    Drive MORE than two or three to be sure to get a general consensus.

    If YOURS shakes, AND the others Don't, you have a few options.

    1. approach the Head" service writer with your issue, then the Dealership Mgr then Owner if No Joy is found.

    Ford Website and other phone numbers

    Press 0;
    at prompt press 0;
    at prompt press 0;
    at prompt press 1;
    at prompt press 0.

    Last Option, check your state's Lemon Law and pursue that avenue.


    You didn't say if it's an AT or Stick.
    As I "understand" the 6sp Auto is actually a Dual-Clutch Manual Transmission that is electronically controlled.
    This may be for the "Festiva" only and not the Focus, I dunno for sure
  • I would appreciate anyone with a 2012 focus with the new style auto trans to comment on drivability issues, if any. I am buying a new car in 2 weeks and it has come down to the focus or the 2012 camry. Toyota quality has slipped quite a bit in the last several years yet the focus does not give you any bang for the buck and I have read some reports here about the focus trans repair issues. I know the shifting is different. Any responses, I thank you.
  • puffin1puffin1 Posts: 276
    Well, I would of had an SEL Focus HB but the Tranny scared me.I don't know why they went with a dry DSG and it's sealed also. I reseached its timing belt or chain to see if it was an iterfaced engine.Whent to C@D, Auto Express and drove 2 of them.
    I'm waiting until the spring.Maybe Mazda will do something with their Sky Active.
    I mean 25 to 26 K for a Focus makes a cruise look tempting.
  • tim156tim156 Posts: 308
    I have a 2012 SEL hatch built on 4/29 and I haven't had any transmission issues. At first, it shifted a little hard and it took around 800-1000 miles for the shifting to smooth out, now it's perfect. Some cars have experienced a shudder and shifting concerns that have not smoothed out over time, those issues were cleared up with reprogramming. Cars built after August or September have the new programing and are not experiencing any issues. I'll also add, if you are considering MyFord Touch, you should not have any concerns. Cars built after October have an entirely new software design and owners with units built prior to that date will receive a usb drive early in the first quarter of 2012 with a total software update. I love my Focus, it's smooth, quiet and gets great mileage and it looks good too. I hope this helped.
  • DO NOT BUY A FORD. I purchased Ford Focus 2012 6 months ago and transmission is a problem. Dealer keeps resetting computer, upgrading computer software still a problem. I am certain it is a design flaw and Ford wishes me to accept a less then solid car. If you want to settle for sub par workmanship then Ford is your choice. If you want well built and reliability then Toyota, Honda, Hyundia are you options. You would think that by now American Car makers would be able to produce solid cars. Its a crap shoot, you might get lucky and be fine. I can't stand Ford dealer soaked me for full retail on this 2012 focus and transmission is messed up. Sometimes the transmission will work OK if you press the gas just right but if you don't it sputters and grinds. The dealer now is telling well that just how the transmission works. An occasional grinder a sputter here and there, it's fine they say. I say I purchased a brand new car and should not have to accept sub par performance. Again if you don't mind getting the shaft then go ahead and purchase FORD
  • I am experiencing a similar issue in my Ford Focus 2012 automatic with 16,000 miles.
    Vibration and hesitation as you described also transmission grinds(rattles) sometimes when you let off the gas and apply the gas between gears shifting.
    The dealer keeps resetting and updating computer software that controls the transmission. NOT WORKING. Last time around they are saying well that is just how it works. OMG now they want me to accept a sub par performance and forget about it. Frustrated.
  • Here is my story...
    December the 20th, 2011
    To whom it may concern:
    I bought a Ford Focus SEL 2012, in a local Ford “CarOne” dealer. The sales person that sold the car to me said that I was buying one of the best cars in the market, with extraordinary new technology and that it is unique in the world.

    With that on mind I had to arrange all the documents necessary to make this happen and be one of the first costumers to buy the all new Ford Focus 2012.

    On the 30th of May, I received by email the invoice and on the 6th of June my new car arrived to the dealer and I picked it up. At first I was very happy until all problems started to appear.

    I had to take the car back to the dealer because something was wrong with the computer inside, the touch screen it was continuously resetting and a black screen appeared saying “it was performing an scheduled system maintenance”. The person from the dealer’s workshop told me that it was nothing to worry about and it was a matter of programming the computer again. After that, apparently the touch screen was working fine.

    Again on July, I had to take the unit back because I felt something was working wrong with the unit’s transmission, the shifts were not working right, I don’t know exactly how to explain this, but the transmission was bumping, hitting within itself. I immediately took the car back to the dealer’s workshop and they told me that what the car needed was an additional computer-programming process and the car stayed for two days. Another failure in this “new” unit is that as of today the pilot door and the door behind are misaligned in relation to the rest of unit’s body. I also have asked to fix this problem but nothing has happened.

    After that, I took out the car from the workshop and at first it did feel different but the truth came up a few days later showing the same symptoms. So I did take it back again to the dealer’s workshop. By August, I had taken my Ford Focus four times back to the workshop because the computer and the transmission problems continued to appear.

    This time, he told me again that the problem was neither in the transmission nor in the motor; he said that everything was about programming the computer again. So this time he asked me to drive another unit to try it and see how this unit was working so he can copy the programming and put it into my Ford Focus 2012 unit´s computer. We did the test with a Ford Focus 2012 SEL PLUS, and this unit worked fine. He copied the program and pasted it into the memory of my Ford Focus 2012.

    Again, I took it out from the workshop but I had to take it back because something was wrong with the touch screen, the volume was going up and down with no reason. This time I talked with the Ford Dealer’s General Manager to let her know all the problems this unit was having and that I was not happy with the quality of this Ford Focus SEL 2012.

    A few days later, by mid September the same bumping and hitting was still feeling in the transmission, this was the sixth time I took back the unit to the workshop and after 2 days of the unit being there, they called me and told me that one of the reasons of the bumping and hitting it was because a motor mount was damaged. He asked for the piece to Mexico City and 2 days later it arrived to the dealer’s workshop. They changed it and once again, for a few days, the car was feeling somewhat better, but not completely. In time, it started to feel like it was losing power between shifts, it felt like I was driving a manual shift transmission instead of an automatic transmission.
    Once again the bumping and hitting within the transmission began to reappear, and again last Friday, December the 16th the unit was taken to the dealer’s workshop. And again, they told me this time it was only a matter of programming. He also told me that he had a software update and that he will be installing it into the Ford Focus SEL 2012’s computer. He also said that he will need to perform a driving test so the computer can learn and after all these new strategies the car will be ready to hit the street again.
    They assured me that with the new programming my Ford Focus SEL 2012 would be ready and I would enjoy all the features of this wonderful unit.
    Saturday the 17th by noon, they called me to tell me that the car was not working well and it was showing the same symptoms, bumping and hitting within the transmission.
    Today is Tuesday the 20th of the December 2011, I have called the General Manager to tell her that my patience has reached its limit and that I need an immediate solution. I have asked her to lend me a car meanwhile we completely fix the problem because I have been without a car each of the seven times that the car has been in the workshop. As you can see, this situation is completely out of what someone can expect of a new vehicle. I believe I’m not asking for much since I’m taking the car for guarantee and they have made nothing to compensate the inconvenience.
    My Ford Focus 2012 has run 6,650 kilometers (4,132 miles).
    With the experience I have had so far with the acquisition of this Ford Focus, I feel I would never again buy a Ford unit nor recommend FORD as an option to my family, friends, colleagues etc. I’m very unsatisfied with FORD dealer in Monterrey, México and with the functionality of this unit.

    Only through a lasting solution to my problem will I be able to change my current feeling towards your company.

    Therefore, I want my money back or a total change of car. I am contacting Ford’s Corporate Offices because I believe and am confident that you will be able to give a definite solution to this painstaking problem as soon as possible, given the commitment to quality and customer service that you constantly promote.
  • Keep us posted regarding contacting Ford�s Corporate. I will be taking my ford focus 2012 back for the 5th time in a couple weeks for the transmission problem. Soon I will have to contact Corporate myself and potentially go down the road of Lemon Law. :lemon:
  • My wife has a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 with about 32,000 miles driven. In the last few months, the automatic transaxle has started behaving strangely, meaning un-requested shifting, momentarily into another gear. Because the car is driven always with the overdrive on, the shifting must be into a lower gear. At first the phenomenon only happened one of two times during a 10 ten mile drive, but she had our local trusted auto garage inspect the operation of the transaxle and do a flush job on it. The auto guys there could find no problem, or did not experience the un-requested shifting.
    The phenomenon is happening more often now, maybe six times during a 30 mile drive and it seems to be correlated with the following driver actions: switching from low beam to high beam head lights, switching on the turn indicator , changing the wind shield wiper speed, turning on the cruse control on or off, We are waiting for the intermittent action to happen enough so that if we give the car to the auto garage again, they can experience it and get some insight.. The phrase on the forum “Transmission or Electrical problem?” seems appropriate. The Overdrive button works OK, as does the light. I am theorizing that a sudden change in electrical voltage make be causing the action, but it is a feeble attempt at understanding the issue. If any one has any insight, we would like to here it.
  • I figured out my noise, seems to have been front bad wheel bearings, well since I was there, the lower ball joints were bad, it seems that things go out in pairs as my brake calipers did earlier this year at different times.
    So I replaced both wheel bearings, both lower ball joints, both drive axles, both tie rod ends, both sway links, both brake rotors & pads, transmission filter & fluid, spark plugs and wires, serpentine belt and splash shield, oil & filter, gas filter, air filter.
    That should have taken care of things in the front half or car, ready for another happy 170,000 miles.
    My next project, rebuild / replace the rear components to secure any rear end problems.
  • puffin1puffin1 Posts: 276
    edited December 2011
  • puffin1puffin1 Posts: 276
    Well, what happened?
Sign In or Register to comment.