Chevrolet Cobalt General Care & Maintenance

2

Comments

  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    A little late on the reply, but the 4T45E is easy to service for the DIY'er. Here is a pic I mocked up compliments of GM: image
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Champion labs does not currently make the ecotec oil filter cartridges for AC Delco. They are made by Hengst. Here is a little oil filter "study" I did recently. The Fram and Supertech are the exact same filter made in Bulgaria, the Carquest that is typically a Wix, is an outsourced Korean made filter.
    image
    image
    image

    Joel
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Wow, oil filters sure have changed. I am used to the metal cased AC/Delco with the metal internal screens that don't fall apart like the cheap internal paper Frams. The Delco's and Wix filters have always shown to be the best in the lab tests I have read in the past including one last year. I have also noticed that the air filters are outrageously priced at about $30 now as well. What ever happened to $5 paper air filters?
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    I hear you on the prices! I guess on a good note, air filters seem to last a lot longer than the old donut filters of years ago. They don't catch the breather blowby and engine compartment debris like they used to. I really like this drop-in style oil filter. They make for a super easy and mess free oil change. I don't typically buy Fram OF's due to price, but in this case, it's not really a Fram. IIRC, it was $0.10 more than the supertech. They were both around $5.50/ea. The Korean built Carquest was the most expensive at $7.42 and the dealer bought ACD was $5.95. On a side note, the ACD, Hengst built filter is made in the USA. The only one home-built in the bunch.

    Joel
  • abelockabelock Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    Can anyone give me advice on the proper way to remove the door panels and side mirrors on my 2006 LS Coupe?
    Last night vandals smashed up BOTH my drivers side and passenger side mirrors beyond repair. I haven't had any luck locating a chilton or haney repair book for diagrams.
    thanks! ~ Andy B.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Andy, I don't have the specifics, but on any GM I've dabbled with, there will be screws around the inside door handle and around the recess for the arm rest. Once you have the screws out, there will be clips all around the perimeter. Gently pry the panel away. Make sure it's a nice warm day. Warm interior panels don't break as easily.

    Joel
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I am a member of a local library which has programs for card carrying members on their website that include a complete auto schematic. I brakes down every single part their is for your car/truck.
  • rlenkerrlenker Member Posts: 13
    Will rain X on the winsheild dammage the roof paint and wax?
  • rlenkerrlenker Member Posts: 13
    :mad: Will rain X on the winsheild dammage the roof paint and wax?
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    it is my understanding and i'm not saying i know but when properly applied it stays where you put it. :)
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    The filter you are talking about is inside the gas tank with the sending unit (fuel pump). I am talking about the filter that is under the car above the metal beam that spans between the rear tires. That is a fuel filter.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    gm parts does list a fuel filter for about 35.00 but no view of part. most gm fuel filter are near the tank and are mounted with a ban to the frame. the filter may have different was of retaining the fuel lines. most common are the filter with 22mm and the fuel line 5/8in. hexhead. i will look at mine and see if it has one.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    harris- I'll have to crawl under my 2007, but off hand, the only component I know of above or near the rear axle beam is the EVAP system. The 'charcoal box' and associated plumbing/hardware is up in there. That's rather huge though.

    Joel
  • rlenkerrlenker Member Posts: 13
    Is there any lap top software that will read the car's coumpter? Read and reset & change the car's functions?
    Whae can I get it?

    E-mail me
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    well i did peek at mine and their is something that appears to be a filter. but it has three lines 1 in and two out. it is retained by the same kind of mounting sleeve as most gm filters. but i am not convinced it is pump to engine fuel filter. see if you can get in touch with poncho maybe he can help he seems to have alot of resources. these lines don't look like pressure lines. :confuse:
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    If that component has black poly/plastic lines, it's part of the evap system. It's not a fuel filter.

    Joel
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    yes it does and doesn't appear to have a common disconnect on the metal line at the unit. :)
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    Went under the car. I loosened the belly band with a 10 mm socket and there's a number: 15233476 on the filter. The AC DELCO number is GF 821 and the PURALATOR number is F-44605.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    what is it and what does it due. i didn't think it looked like a regular filter. but i would like to know what it's function is. :confuse:
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    See http://www.pureoil.com/smartlink/?partnum=F44605

    for full description of Purolator fuel filter F44605
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    thats not what mine looks like
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    The PURALATOR number is wrong. Double checked the AC DELCO number and it is right. Sorry for the mistake.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    AC Delco lists their GF 821 as follows

    http://198.208.187.182/internet/VehiclePartFits.jsp?autosel=A&part=gf821

    GF surely stands for "gas filter" Is this what you've been looking for?
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    We have a certificate for a free oil change and filter at our local chevy dealer. When I asked the service manager what oil they used, he said they only use 10w-30 bulk oil. It is written in the owners manual that the car only uses 5w-30. It specifically says not to use 5w-40 and 20w-50 but it doesn't say anything about 10w-30. Will I get into trouble using 10w-30?

    The oil filter at the local chevy dealer costs $7.75 without tax.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    your chevy dealer will say it is gm oil and will have a number of different bulk lubricantsmy cobalt it seems has to have mobil 1 and they stock it for gm cars with this requirement.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    GM Goodwrench oil used to be made be Mobil one, non-synthetic. I am not sure what they are using now, it could be still Mobil. I am surprised your manual doesn't show 10w-30 as an option. 10w-30 is a good summer weight, but I put in my winter/all around grade 5w-30 yesterday.
  • wr_guywr_guy Member Posts: 13
    They recomend 5/30 because it is easier to pump and gives better gas mileage year 'round. Also modern manufacturing tolerances are tighter than ever and they want the thin oil to reach all the tight spaces in the motor.

    I would not use 10/30 oil in a new motor, but I would use it in a car with over 40k miles in the summer at least.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Most of what I have read is that 10/30 and 10/40 weight are prefered during the summer, and 5/30 is good to put in during the winter or as a year round oil. I use 10/30 in the summer for better mileage.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    You cant go wrong with sticking with what the manufacturer specs, which is currently 5w-30 for the 2.2L Ecotec. I have seen used oil analysis reports on an Ecotec 2.2L running 5w-20. The numbers consistantly came back spotless based on 7-10Kmi oil change intervals, so 5w-20 or 0w-20 also work perfectly in the 2.2L. Today's 5w-30 are so consistantly good, I don't see the point of 10w-30 anymore. Why start a cold engine on a 10wt when you can get oil pumping faster with a 5wt? They are both a 30wt at normal operating temps. There's no point in it and TONS of data to back that up.

    Joel
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    The manual I am talking about is the one that comes with the car. On page 289 it says Do Not Use SAE 10w40- SAE 20w50 or any other viscosity grade oil not recommended which should include 10w30.

    We live in New Orleans and this Jan I will change to synthetic oil 5w30. The car still has factory oil and only 1200 miles.
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    Is anybody else having problems with the screw ends that go thru the door chipping the paint on the front posts?
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Anyone else experiencing a flutter or RPM bounce when the transaxle shifts into 4th during moderate acceleration? This is on my 2007 2.2L, 4T45E equipped Cobalt. It seems to only happen once fully warmed and I'm not positive if it's happening on the 3-4 upshift or during torque converter lockup in 4th. There is no check engine light and other than that, it runs flawlessly and has been perfect. I have heard of one or two other 2007 owners with the same concern. No issue was found by their respective dealership service depts. I'm also not exactly sure if this is a throttle by wire problem, transmission problem, etc.. Basically the tach will bounce up/down about 500RPMs at about half second intervals during what feels like the 3-4 shift. You can hear it and feel it as well.

    Joel
  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Member Posts: 381
    Hey Joel, good to see you over here.

    Your concern/issue is one I've not seen or heard yet. However, I'll put the word out.
  • grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    I always drove S.U.V.s and Vans in the past and I never had snow tires installed on them. I drove all year with all season tires. Now that I purchased a Cobalt I wonder if I should put snow tires on it. It's smaller and lighter compare to a S.U.V. or Van and I figure the weight of the car could make a difference in the snow.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    You won't know until you try your Cobalt in your conditions. My experience with smaller FWD cars in Buffalo NY winters is, they are pretty good in the snow with OEM style tires. Nothing goes good on ice and not much will help you if you bottom out in deep snow.

    Joel
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    If you can go 50,000 to 100,000 miles between transmission fluid changes, are they using regular or synthetic transmission fluid? And if you have to, can you use synthetic transmission fluid?
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Dexron VI ATF is pretty much used across the GM line now. It's advantages are the capability of extended drains, so it has synthetic components in it. If you did a pan drop, cleaning and filter change somewhere before 50Kmi, you'd be good to go until 100Kmi or beyond. I wouldn't let my 4T45E go to 100Kmi if I was keeping the vehicle long term. These transaxles are decent ones, but none of them are bullet proof.

    Joel
  • aliciaaaliciaa Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone...
    I drive an 06 Chev Cobalt SS, Although it is not supercharged...
    I am wondering what RPMs it should be running at when I'm driving down the highway...
    can anyone help me out??
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    60 mph at about 2000 rpm 80 mph at about 3000 rpm
  • caprice259caprice259 Member Posts: 1
    Joel.... I have been experiencing the same problem. I have had my coblat back to the dealer several times, and they can not seem to find the problem. My Cobalt also is a 2007 2.2L. My problem also happens once the vehicle is warmed up.

    Ricky
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Ricky, thanks for responding! This makes at least 3 reports now I've heard of on this issue. This is exactly what I fear, getting stuck in the old dealer "could not duplicate concern" loop. You can't fault them really. Cars are so freaking complicated now & techs can't spend all day on a warranty job or they'd starve. If I can dig up anything I'll let you know.

    Joel
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    Does anyone have any information about GM's Protection Plan for extended warranties?
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Here's is what I found on google.

    www.gmprotectionplan.com
  • mikeshouse4mikeshouse4 Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know the size of the nut for the plastic oil filter cap on the 2007 cobalt
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    24 millimeter. You could use an adjustable wrench.
  • harrisblackharrisblack Member Posts: 28
    Does ayone have firsthand experience with GM's protection plan?
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I am sure the nut built into the top of all the GM Ecotec 2.2L engines is 1 1/4 inches (or close to 32 mm).
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    What kind of experience are you talking about. If you trade the vehicle in you can get a pro-rated amount back. The GM warranty is among the best, if not the best in the industry for coverage with no co-pays. You can shop different dealers for the warranty. You could buy a Chevy but then go to a Buick dealership and negotiate an extended warranty there for your Chevy. You could wait a year or two before having it added on if you want.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    For do-it-yourselfers, the GM Ecotec engine requires a low-profile 1 1/4 inch socket to remove the plastic cap on top of the built-in oil filter. This tool is not easy to find.

    However, Amazon.com is presently selling the "Lisle 14700 Oil Filter Wrench for GM 2.2L" for $8.94 --- shipping is free if you buy something else that makes your order total over $25 (the something else can be anything you were probably going to buy anyway --- such as say a computer printer ink cartridge.)
  • mike8718mike8718 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Cobalt. I do my own oil changes. Are there fittings that need to be Lubricated, and if so, how often? Thanks for any help.
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