Buick LeSabre: Problem Codes/TSBs/Recalls

gweilo

Was there ever a recall on the faulty plenum? Looking at a $400 expenditure for an '01.

imidazol97

The plenum design failure ended in 1999.

There was a recall on vehicles 2000-2003 to have the nuts holding the throttle body to the plenum changed to ones that were broader and to add antileak to the coolant the way it's added at most factories to stop minor leaks. GM stopped adding it in 2000 because it discolors the recovery tank.

What happened with your plenum?

demoncarnut75

I have a '94 Buick LeSabre that idles very high and the speedometer doesn't work. One mechanic told me that "mice" might have chewed the wires up in the dash, but that would be impossible, since mice aren't in my car. The "service engine soon" light has been on since I've had it and I recently pulled the ECM out from under the dash and I am not sure how to be sure if the ECM and PROM chip are a match. It has been replaced somewhere around the year 2000. I seem to be stuck at this point. What can I do from here? :lemon:

just4james

have 2000 lesabre with power windows problem. it seems that the window motors all working, but on 2 the cables either snapped or came loose. was hoping if someone has had similar problems, would love any info. to help with the situation. i called gm to see about recalls, but there were none. honestly my argument is i have owned about 6 Buicks the past 14 yrs. never, ever had windows problem. this is a newer car with low mileage, and as i told gm, i feel this should not happen ever on such a newer car; realize no warranty, but feel the repair should be done gratis from them.

wesconjr

I have a 2000 lesabre as well. Indeed a good car. I have replaced every window motor in my car and I have replaced the drivers side one twice. The first one I paid $450.00 at the dealership. Now you can get them at www.powerupauto.com for about $65.00. They usually charge me about $30.00 to install at the dealership body shop. Other than the window motor problems the car has been solid. I have 175,000 miles on mine and it steal runs great.

just4james

hello to wesconjr. and thanks for the info. when you say dealership body shop fixed it cheaper for you, what dealership body shop? different than the first dealership you paid the $450.00? if i could get it done at the discounted price, that'd be great. any feedback helpful.

rlrufus

I am unable to get a scanner to link up with my '95 lesabre. When i try to plug my obd11 scanner up i get a message it is unable to connect with the computer. the scanner works with my other vehicle so i know it is good. Has anyone got an idea on correcting this prob.

imidazol97

That must be one of the crossover years where the connector is OBD II but the link is OBD I. It requires an adapter.

rlrufus

Thank you for your reply. What kind of adapter and where can I get one?

monticellorob

I have a 2000 la sabre limited, 170,000 miles. Great running car. With the rear windows, you can hear the motors run but nothing happens with the windows. Is this the regulator, cable, or what? Also, how difficult to fix? Additionally, my steering wheel lights do not work. I can get the switches out of the steering wheel but the lights look like little blue LED lights that are soldered to a little circut board.

wbernhardt

Lately when I start the car I have been getting a CHECK ENGINE light that stays on. I then shut it off and on again and the Light turns off. Also once in awhile the car shuts off for no reason when driving down the road. To restart it, it sometimes takes 15 times of turning the key on and off, almost like the fuel pump is told not to turn on.
We put it on a machine and got 2 codes:

P1361- Ignition Control Signal Not Toggling
P0300- Misfire

We are pointing toward Replacing the Ignition Control Module.
Does anyone have any ideas or imput?

Thank you.

cali1853

my car is currently doing the same exact thing can you let me know what you ended up doing to solve the problem. thanks alot any info will be greatly appreciated.

imidazol97

When you go to restart, what does the Security light on the dash do. It should come on when you turn the key to "on" and then go off after about 5 seconds. It should not be flashing.

When you turn the key is the car cranking? Is that what you mean by it's not getting gas from the fuel pump?

I've read posts in another discussion by people chasing problems like this. The crankshaft position sensor seems to not give a clear code or sign. For your Ignition Control Module is it getting spark? If it quits and you can remove a spark plug wire to determine it's NOT giving spark would be a great help. Don't just toss on parts. Diagnose (I know, easy for me to say).

The shutting off while running sounds like it _might_ be crankshaft position sensor of camshaft sensor. If the crankshaft sensor gives a problem it _sometimes_ is heat related. Are you in a hot climate? is the car hot when this happens?

People in another discussion have mentioned putting cold water on the crankshaft position sensor (it sits just behind the flywheel and you can throw cold water from a cup on it they've said). Cooling it sometimes gets it back to sensing the timing pieces as they go by.

How many miles on car?

wbernhardt

Not every time, but once out of 10 times, I start the car and the check engine light stays on. I then turn the car off and turn it on again and the light goes out.
When the car is hot about 10-15 minutes of driving, it will shut off. I try to start it and it turns over but does not start. Like starting an engine with no gas in it. I will have to check for spark next time it happens.
After around 10-15 tries, it starts right up, no problem. It runs great.
A friend put it on a tester and the codes that came up were:
P1361 Ignition Control Signal not Toggling
P0321 Spark Reference Circuit
P0705 Trans Range Sw Circuit
P1530 A/C Pressure Sw Circuit
P0300 Misfire
It suggested the Ignition Control Module
or the ECM or PCM (Which ever one is the main Brain) I am not quite sure which one. I was going to go to the junk yard and get one. I did replac the Ignition Control Module and the light still comes on , but it hasn't shut off on me yet.
If the crank shaft was the problem, would it have showed up on the tester?

imidazol97

You're into a never never land that seems to have lots of errors but no definite cause. Please don't throw parts at the error codes. Sometimes a good garage diagnostic charge is worth the cost.

The crankshaft sensors don't seem to throw a specific code with their erratic failures.

When car doesn't start you can check the injectors by feeling them during cranking. If you touch them while the car cranks and starts normally you can feel the vibration as they work. If it doesn't do that when it won't start, you know the injectors are getting a signal from the PCM.

The question about the security light was because of the VATS system that turns off the crank and the injectors if the wrong key chip resistance is detected. But if the security light isn't on but works properly during startup it's not likely a problem.

It is possible for PCMs to do funny things. A neighbor had one that gave a terrible rough idle and poor running. But that was a cobbled motor (replacement) to begin with. A replacement PCM from a junkyard did fix the problem.

I'll send an email with a couple of links to places you might want to read about probems and diagnosing to your carspace email box. It's the "mailbox" in the gray horizontal bar at the top of each page here on edmunds.

wbernhardt

Thank you very much. You have been a great help. I will have to keep investigating in the problem solving.

teachnjen23

I have looked all over the internet, and cannot figure a way to get the "check engine light" codes. It's too old for auto zone and other do-it-yourself places, and I don't have $300 for a mechanic to tell me i need a new air filter. I know there are tricks to get the light itself to flash the codes at you, but I can't figure out how. PLEASE HELP!!! I'm a single mom who's mostly mechanically inclined, but I'm still learning.
thanks

imidazol97

There is a transition stage between OBDI and OBDII and that may be 1994 and 1995.

Certain stores may have gotten the setup of cables to read the OBDI with their readers. Shopping for readers some will mention they have cable to adapt to the earlier ones. But lots of people still seem to have trouble.

IF it can be read by using a jumper to touch the terminals A and B, here is a sketch showing how it works.

Have key off. Connected between contacts labeled A and B. Then turn key on and watch the check engine light. Hope it works on your year car. Otherwise keep checking at different stores that provide free service of checking codes.

Try callin different ones. E.g., one Advanced Auto may have the reader and correct cable that will read it while another one doesn't.

BTW, what trouble are you having with your car that you want to read the codes?

Maybe if your light is on, someone can help if there are symtoms. And remember codes only hint at the cause. Don't just replace parts because the guy at the parts counter says that's the code for a carburetor low out reading; replace the carburetor! Troubleshooting is needed to find the cause that can trip the code.

Most trouble codes I've had were emissions; the gas cap was not sealing on the filler neck after putting gas it. One time a hose at the carbon cannister had started leaking at the connection. Garage fixed that one by cutting off the end and stretching the hose and reconnecting.

buick89

I have a 89 Buick LeSabre and the "Check Engine Soon" light is on.I tried everything I could read on about trying to aleast get the light to just go off,I will get the prblem fixed soon.It says "Code 41",which is the "Cam Sensor".Does ne 1 know where it is located and have a picture of where it is and what it look like? If there's away to get the light off'let me know.PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!

buick89

The power windows on my buick in the front,they let down slow and go up the same,does ne 1 have ne advice on the issue,would love your feedback.

buick89

What's the average cost 4 a tune-up 4 89 Buick LeSabre?

vance728

my 1991 buick lesabre has a knock i only hear while idling or at slow speeds 10-15 mph. the oil light also blinks on and off at times. could this be oil pump? or could it be major(bearings)?

imidazol97

If the oil hasn't been changed for a while, check to see if it seems diluted (thin) and smells of gasoline.

I'd change the oil and put in 20-50 IF you're not in a cold, cold climate. I'm assuming you're using 10-30 now.

You don't tell how many miles and what kind of maintenance like regular oil changes at 3000-4500 miles it's had. I'm assuming it's wear on bearings especially if it's over 150K. miles and hasn't had frequent oil changes.

I'm not sure about the knock meaning since it's at low rpms only.

Ask in this discussion about noise and which oil might buy some more time on the motor.
Oil, a slippery subject

vance728

it has 79000 miles and the older gentleman said he serviced it regularly at the dealership. do you know anything about a product called no knock or something like that. if you do will it harm the engine. also everybody is saying they are getting 25-30 mpg. on ther'e 91 buick just like mine 3.8

i put spark plugs in it. what can i do to tune it up to get optimum gas mileage.

imidazol97

At 79000 and regular service I'd want to find out what it was. The sensor for oil pressure could be bad. The oil changes he did might have been 7500 miles instead of 3500. The knock could be something other than lower engine problems. Could be a crankshaft balancer. Is it erratic or constant with ignition firing?

If you know which dealer did the service, I'd go back and ask them about the records for the vehicle. And I think it would be well worth having them check what's the problem.

Listen with a broomstick or long piece of wood to where it comes from in the motor. Be careful of belts and moving parts. Change the oil and put in fresh oil.
Take off the serpentine belt and spin and push and pull on each of the pulleys to look for one of those giving trouble. Check the idler pulley really carefully. They usually give a squeal or rushing noise on newer 3800s but you could have a pulley on an accessory bad.

vance728

what do i need to do to get optimum gas mileage on this car. i put new plugs in and it gave me a couple more mpgs.. what else do i need to do. i was posting this question while editing my reply to imidazol and he answered my question before i finished editing it which was great. he's fast. by the way thanks imidazol

imidazol97

If the plug wires are still Packard which is original Gm wires, it's past due. If they're a different brand I'd go by how old they look.

I'd put in a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner (available at Walmart, Meijer, Pepboys, Advance auto, compare prices). Put it in when tank is low and then add 10 gallons or 20 gallons. Drive and see if it makes a difference. I use it twice a year. Don't over use it. And don't get the injector cleaner version in the same black bottle. I don't think it's as strong.

Check the air filter. Replace if it looks like dirt is embedded into the fibers. Or knock dirt off and continue.

See if the trans oil has been drained and replaced. If the one dealer did service, they can tell you if it was done if the papers aren't in the car. Some people would advise against draining oil after 15 years. You might want to ask in the Oil, A Slippery Subject forum.

imidazol97

A note about oil light. Could be sender. Could be worn oil pump and that may have lowered pressure and worn bearings.

and someone noted in another discussion

" These engines were notorious for their weakened oil pressure relief valves. If you have been using conventional oils and not changed oil at proper intervals, you probably have gunked up the seals inside the relief valve or in the oil pressure sensor. Doing a motor flush may help things out and restore the operation of the relief valve. You might try adding Risolone (a high detergent oil) to your crankcase and hope for the best. Other than that, it's a fairly meaty chore to remove the oil pan and oil pump for replacement."

vance728

thanks a lot for your time and help.

dewmaster

i have a 1994 lesabre. the climate control works rarely with the individual climate buttons illuminated but it usually doesnt. there is no light illuminated 98% of the time and the air comes out of all the vents. the temperature control always works as well as the blower motor. there is a clicking behind the dash below the passsenger airdag and above the glove box when the control lights flicker. does anyone have any idea what needs to be replaced?

dewmaster

regarding ur window motors, the motor teeth could be worn down. if u can take the door panel off, you should be able to find the window motor about midway down the door. if the teeth on the outside arent worn, turn the key to the on position and tap on the motor with a small hammer while pushing the power window switch up and down. if nothing happens, its most likely the window motor. have you tried to push the window down? the window could simply be stuck as well. u will be able to tell if the motors internal gears are spinning or not. if not, u can most likely spray some multipurpose lubricant on all the moving parts. u cant go wrong by spraying too much.
im not 2 sure about the lights in the steering wheel. u may b able 2 get the switches replaced. unfortunately u sometimes have to do that. good luck!!!

cnfbrock

I also am checking on a 94 Buick Lesabre and check engine light is on. Engine light comes on after about 10 minutes running, surging up and down,and is running rough at idle. Could you please send me the diagram on how to jump. I got a key from Autozone, but can't figure out where to use it. I have wire down for code reader. I don't see any A and B on it. Please help.

imidazol97

I looked it up and 93 was the last year for jumping A and B on the Assembly Line Diagnostic Connector. In 1994 you need a special set of connectors that are different than the OBDII connectors that are in use after that transition period.

You need to find a store or some who has them.

kelli3217

I am having a similar problem with my climate control buttons. Did you ever find out what the problem was and how to fix it?

rlrufus

On mine it was a switch in the dash. Replaced the switch and both sides worked as they should.

getherdone69

The security light on my 94 LeSabre is flashing! now what? I didn't even take my key out of the ignition when I try to start it, it does nothing. I know it is the security system but what can I do? This is driving me crazy. Thank you.

imidazol97

When you put the key into the ignition and then turn the key to ON, the security light should come on for a few seconds while the VATS reads the resistance of the chip. If it doesn't read the right resistance for the chip, it then flashes for 3 minutes and then resets itself to read the next key inserted.

Do you have a second key? Put it in slowly and then turn the key to ON before turning the key to START. See what the Security light does.

The resistance it reads may be wrong because
the contacts inside the entrance to the key cylinder that contact the two sides of the key resistor are worn or dirty. You can try putting alcohol on the resistor parts of the key and quickly insert it to clean the with the alcohol carried in.

The resistor on the key may be gooey or oiley. Rub it with a pencil eraser to remove goop on the two resistor contacts.

The two wires that go from the contacts inside the key cylinder down the steering column to the connector at the base may have broken some of the fine wires where they bend all the time as the tilt wheel goes up and down.

If it reads the key resistance as correct, it will then start the car. It may still have problems. The light may come on while you're driving if and then go off again.

The dealer will want to replace the lock cylinder and cut new keys for that cylinder at $30 each. I would expect $300 at some dealers. Independent garages may charge less that are knowledgeable.

There is a fix where resistors equal to the key resistance are soldered into the circuit down on the steering column instead of the contacts reading the key in the cylinder at the top. Then you have no theft deterrent but the VATS system always works. (VATS=vehicle anti theft system).

absav

With only 42000 miles on my mothers Lesabre she needs to replace all four struts. Bought new, the little old lady type driver, driving on main roads - what do you think would be the reason for the strut replacement ? I have driven the car and checked it out and they do need to be replaced. The car has not been hurt and well maintained. Have there been past problems or recalls? Thank you for your input time.

imidazol97

To what are you comparing the struts?

The Buicks had a very soft, but controlled ride. They are at home on a relatively smooth street and interstate. If it's a Custom, that's even more true because it doesn't have the leveling rear struts that pump up to maintain height. Those were actually stiffer than the base struts for the rear. In the 1993, with two people in the rear, stopping at a stop sign quickly and making the nose dive then hitting the gas actually threw enough mass to the rear that the struts bottom (softly).

If you're comparing to an Accord's ride, that won't work as you see from what I've said. If you mother intends to keep the car I'd do as I did on both my leSabres and put on Monroe SensaTrac stuts all around. You can shop for price. I don't recommend Sears but another store would match their pricing. Sears runs half price on installation labor cost fairly often and you can take that plus the cost of the struts to shop at your favorite place. Don't forget there'll be a 4-wheel alignment added to that.

Eleven years of age may also have softened the struts.

absav

Thanks very much for the input. I guess I am use to driving my Honda Pilot having a stiffer ride. I will pass on your recomondation and she will probably go with that. Thanks again for your time and input.

mudder304

I have a 93' Lesabre and the other day I pulled the codes from the computer and I am trying to clear them. I was wondering where exactly the ECM fuse is located under the hood? Thanks

billnmd2006

my 94 Buick Lesabre custom Ac/Heater Fan will not work I got a new Fan Control switch it still does not work. What can the problem be????

imidazol97

Is it electronic dual control automatic system?

could be blower motor--connect a direct wire from the battery positive post (with a fuse in it) to check. If it doesn't work take the ground wire and connect it directly to the negative post of the battery also.

could be the BCM, blower control module, which is the power transistor unit that varies the speed. Follow the wires from the blower motor to the BCM which is under the relay center with all the fuses and relays if I recall the layout correctly.

If it's a manual control system it could be the blower motor.
Or it could be the resistor pack for the lower speeds is blown. But then it would work on high speed only because high speed uses a separate relay in the relay center to provide power directly because of the high amperage.

billnmd2006

I'm not sure. we took the whole inside control out and took it apart and replaced the fan control switch. all the lights light up on the control except the fan control. The mechanic got a whole unit from the junk yard that unit ran the fan but nothing else worked on that. So it's strange I dont know what the problem is . The blower fan works.

Redboard

I assume with this error code I have a bad 02 sensor. I can find the one back by the cat. converter, but isn't there another one somewhere?

Sizzlerdon

1998 Buick Lesabre with the 3.8, 77,500 miles. I’m coming up with the code P0300.

Need help! I have a (new to me) 1998 Buick Lesabre with the 3.8, 77,500 miles. I’m coming up with the code P0300 which is multi-cylinder misfire. My mechanic came up with it being # 1 & # 4 cylinders. At this time I’ll mention that the code get’s picked up at about 2700 RPM. The engine runs smooth and no noises.
We’ve done some of the obvious; Changed plugs and wires. Change out the coil pack. Ran Sea Foam into vacuum at throttle body. Cleaned and shifted around injectors.
I’m at a lost, any suggestions out there?

pkutz

I have a '98 LeSabre with 110K on it. Currently it's idoling and running rough most of the time. For some reason it randomly decides to run better occasionally. Can't tell any set of occurrences that make it run better - doesn't seem to be temp related.

Check engine light is on. I had it scanned and it came back with these two error codes:

P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0201 - Injector 1 Control Circuit

My thoughts are that either one of the two parts in question is causing all the problems or some other underlying third problem is causing them. Maybe an intake manifold gasket or other vacuum leak?

Any thoughts on what the most likely culprit is?

Thanks much!

Schmegalhof

I have the "Check Engine" light staying on. I had it scanned and it came up with the MAP sensor. I check the voltage from the positive terminal of the harness connector to ground and it reads 11.5 Volts. Should this voltage be closer to 4-6 volts like it says in the 1995 Buick Service Manual or did they increase the voltage on the 1998 model?
If it should be 4-6 volts does anyone have an idea of what might be the problem?
Does it mean that the PCM is bad and needs to be replaced?

Thanks,
Schmegalhof

sunfire344890

i have a 95 buick lasabre. was running fine ecxept wene we drove it it just lost all power a few times. you could hear fuel pump kick in, it rolled over but had to do this several times before it started agian. change fuel filter, plugs, wires, and ecm computer. now its not fireing on 2 cylinders. went to junk yard bought a ignition module still not firing on same 2 cylinders. can you give me suggions on what im not seeing here. oh i had boesch plugs went back and put ac delco in still no change

magm66

I have the very same problem. I have changed, TPS, MAP, MAF, EGR, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, wires, plenum, lower intake gaskets, PCV, coils. My ignition module was checked at Autozone and turned OK. Compression reads 195, 190, 190, 190, 190, 200. I wonder if I may have a broken valve spring or faulty knock, crank, or cam sensor,
Did you find the problem on yours?
Thanks.

foreverjokker

I have a 2002 buick lesabre and am tring to get it inspected but for some reason when it is hook up to the obd2 it reads that my o2 senser, o2 sensers htr, Evap, catalyst all say "not ready" why is this. It will not pass inspection enless it can read and I no there is nothing wrong with the vehicle (even the mech said that) please help me before I get a ticket thank you