i recntly had my steering column taken apart to fix my turn signal switch but now my infl rest light is on but everything is connected fine is their away to reset it or to fix it?
I have a '98 LeSabre Ltd, that is starting to show its age @ 243000km etc, however its still a quite youthful car to drive. Recently the dashboard heater vents have stopped working totally with the only airflow traveling through the top defrost, floor and rear seat vents. This unit is controlled with the electronic push-button panel and all the buttons seem to be working as the vacuum on the ventilation flapper is working, to shut off the defrost and put it only to the floor vents etc. It just will not direct air through the front face vents or to turn on the recirculation feature.
I am wondering if there is anything more readily available to check such as a relay or something before is start into the "fun" of taking everything apart to get into the chaos of the venting system. This is a sentimental car so I find it worth the while to get into this sort of job to maintain its personal value.
You can verify by switching lines going to the vacuum motors on the left side of the center box. Take off both under dash plastic covers--a few screws and taps.
The programmer box is on the corner of the HVAC box held on by two screws. There are a couple of connectors-big one and small one on top to unsnap for electrical wires.
The plastic thing sucks closed. The blue line for dash vents gives earliest problem. There are 4 vacuum controlled motors that move vanes to direct air. The blue line goes to the dash vents--it turns off the flow out the defrost and forces air out the dash instead. Find some vacuum line at a parts store that fits oveer the 1/8 inch plastic vacuum lines they use. Note that the colors inside the programmer on the lines doesn't always match the color for the outside line coming out of the plastic connector.
I have a 97 buck lasabre and for awhile the horn would just go off by itself whether or not the alarm was set or just riding down the road. I would have to tap on the horn to make it stop but now the horn wont even blow, but when i had someone push on the horn, all I hear is a clicking sound coming from a row of fuses that are located below a black cover against the firewall under hood, now does anyone know which of those fuses are the horn? or does this sound like a problem with the contacts that are behind the air bag assembly for the horn. Im ready to pull my hair out so any suggestions would be appreciative...I need this horn as I have no patience with these crazy drivers out there....lmao
I have a 97 buck lasabre and for awhile the horn would just go off by itself whether or not the alarm was set or just riding down the road. I would have to tap on the horn to make it stop but now the horn wont even blow, but when i had someone push on the horn, all I hear is a clicking sound coming from a row of fuses that are located below a black cover against the firewall under hood, now does anyone know which of those fuses are the horn? or does this sound like a problem with the contacts that are behind the air bag assembly for the horn. Im ready to pull my hair out so any suggestions would be appreciative...I need this horn as I have no patience with these crazy drivers out there....lmao
Every time I take my car in for estimates, I get different results. So.. I am very confused and hopefully you guys can help me out here. I am totally clueless about brakes, and what is necessary vs what is fluff. I also feel like every place I go is trying to upsell me on everything under the sun (you should see the estimates I got, One place wanted to replace my shocks, struts, trans fluid flush, air fliters, belts, tie rods, etc. The other place said that my shocks, struts, trans flud, belts, tie rods were fine, but did recommend air fliter replacements).
Two Estimates:
Shop Number 1
They indicated that I needed new pads (ceramic), resurface of rotors, new calipers + hardware on front and rear and flush. They provided me with nothing indicating what levels my rotors were at. Total cost $400.00
Shop 2: They first came back with estimate of $1200. This included on both front and rear: Calipers, Rotors, Semi Metallic Pads, Flush. The manager then said, that the Calipers were not really necessary but because the pads on either side of the car were wearing at different rates it probably meant that the calipers were sticking on one side more than the other. he said really if they replace the calipers I might get a longer wear time out of my pads.
Next, he said that the rotors on the back were at discard levels so they could not be machined (wait, the last place said they could.. huh?). Measurements: .384 (LB) and .392 (RB). Their measurements on front were 1.248 (LF) and 1.253 (RF). Min. Machining level was 1.244. Said it was too close to machine properly. So replacement was necessary.
When asked at both shops what came on my car (type of pad) I got two different answers. The one shop said it came with front ceramic and rear semi metallic. The other shop said it came with semi-metallic.
The first shop said ceramics were best, so that is what they recommended. The second shop said they stick with OEM specs on brakes and did NOT recommend the ceramics.
Both shops recommended fluid flush (I had this done 2 years ago), is this necessary?
I had my front rotors replaced 2 years ago at my last service. I thought that rotors are typically good for at least ONE machining, is this not true?
tkcolorado, Were either of these shops one of our dealerships? If so, we're happy to follow up on this with you! Please let us know. Best, Sarah GM Customer Service
Comments
I am wondering if there is anything more readily available to check such as a relay or something before is start into the "fun" of taking everything apart to get into the chaos of the venting system. This is a sentimental car so I find it worth the while to get into this sort of job to maintain its personal value.
Any help is very greatly appreciated!
http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.php
You can verify by switching lines going to the vacuum motors on the left side of the center box. Take off both under dash plastic covers--a few screws and taps.
The programmer box is on the corner of the HVAC box held on by two screws. There are a couple of connectors-big one and small one on top to unsnap for electrical wires.
The plastic thing sucks closed. The blue line for dash vents gives earliest problem. There are 4 vacuum controlled motors that move vanes to direct air. The blue line goes to the dash vents--it turns off the flow out the defrost and forces air out the dash instead. Find some vacuum line at a parts store that fits oveer the 1/8 inch plastic vacuum lines they use. Note that the colors inside the programmer on the lines doesn't always match the color for the outside line coming out of the plastic connector.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/0900823d8017f925-1-1.gif
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/DSC03124.jpg
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Two Estimates:
Shop Number 1
They indicated that I needed new pads (ceramic), resurface of rotors, new calipers + hardware on front and rear and flush. They provided me with nothing indicating what levels my rotors were at. Total cost $400.00
Shop 2:
They first came back with estimate of $1200. This included on both front and rear: Calipers, Rotors, Semi Metallic Pads, Flush. The manager then said, that the Calipers were not really necessary but because the pads on either side of the car were wearing at different rates it probably meant that the calipers were sticking on one side more than the other. he said really if they replace the calipers I might get a longer wear time out of my pads.
Next, he said that the rotors on the back were at discard levels so they could not be machined (wait, the last place said they could.. huh?). Measurements: .384 (LB) and .392 (RB). Their measurements on front were 1.248 (LF) and 1.253 (RF). Min. Machining level was 1.244. Said it was too close to machine properly. So replacement was necessary.
When asked at both shops what came on my car (type of pad) I got two different answers. The one shop said it came with front ceramic and rear semi metallic. The other shop said it came with semi-metallic.
The first shop said ceramics were best, so that is what they recommended. The second shop said they stick with OEM specs on brakes and did NOT recommend the ceramics.
Both shops recommended fluid flush (I had this done 2 years ago), is this necessary?
I had my front rotors replaced 2 years ago at my last service. I thought that rotors are typically good for at least ONE machining, is this not true?
Thoughts??
Were either of these shops one of our dealerships? If so, we're happy to follow up on this with you! Please let us know.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service