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I've left notes on other Highlanders with torn mudguards and will probably print out notices (to save writing notes when I come across these affected Highlanders) which I'll start posting on windshields. I'm not sure most owners notice their mudguards...sigh...
I put the largest spacers I could on mine (30mm, I believe). This was because I installed fender flares - the wheels look MUCH better when they line up even with the flares.
I have a '01 HL Limited(JBL) and I'm dreading the extreme bass coming from the speakers. I want to upgrade my speakers(Infinity Kappa) and maybe the tweeters, but I don't know if I should change the amp or not. Am I able to change the speakers only, or do I need to get a new amp also? I heard from someone to use a crossover if I didn't want to change the amp, but I have no idea what it is. Can someone help me? For those who upgraded their systems, can you guys tell me what speakers/tweeters/amps are good and can fit on my HL?
Thanks!
Typically when speakers are replaced in a car, the tweeters (small ~1" speakers near the top of the front doors) are always replaced when the woofers (larger ~6" speakers near the bottom of the front doors) are replaced. These speakers (separate tweeters and woofers) are referred to as component speakers or a component speaker system, and this entire "system" must be replaced together (unless if you're a real hi-fi techno fanatic in which case you might feel savvy enough to match a new woofer to the existing tweeter). While the factory component speakers in the Highlander do not have a crossover, most after-market component speaker systems will come with a crossover network, which looks like a small enclosure with a few electronic components in it. The signal from the output of the amp is connected to the input of the crossover, and there are two outputs from the crossover, one connecting to the woofer and the other to the tweeter. The Infinity Kappa 60.5CS is an example of a component speaker system.
"I heard from someone to use a crossover if I didn't want to change the amp..." This is false information as changing the amp is completely independent of changing the speakers and hence the crossover.
The speakers in the back doors of the Highlander, however, are not components but instead (in the case of the JBL system) are coaxial, which means that the tweeter is mounted in the center of the woofer in a single speaker housing. There is no crossover (or is built-in); the output of the amp connects to the single input on the speaker housing. The Infinity Kappa 62.5I is an example of a coaxial speaker.
You don't necessarily need to buy a new amp. The conventional wisdom is that upgrading just the speakers provides the most noticeable improvement to a factory sound system. If this still doesn't produce good enough sound for your tastes, the next step would be to upgrade the amp.
You can try just upgrading the front speakers first before deciding whether to upgrade the rears.
Check-out www.crutchfield.com for further explanations of car speaker systems and for a list of the most popular car speakers available. Also check-out previous posts concerning speakers in this discussion for opinions on what speakers/amps are good choices; I've heard good things about JL Audio, both for their speakers and their amps, but the prices are high.
Best way to choose speakers is to bring a CD representative of the music you listen to with you to the car stereo shop and audition different speakers to see which ones sound good to you; play them at a loud volume level as this will affect the bass response and is typically the volume level you will be playing the sound system at when driving with ambient car noise in the background.
All of this still may not solve the bass problem you're complaining about (I assume you've tried adjusting the bass control). The Highlander cabin seems to have a modal resonance frequency possibly around 120 Hz which results in somewhat of a boomey sound from the audio system; one solution may be to add a graphic equalizer to attenuate the 120 Hz band, but this is a somewhat cumbersome solution which may or may not solve the problem. Perhaps more expensive speakers or a sub-woofer are the answer. Although I know a little bit about the technical aspects of car audio systems I'm not an experienced car audiofile, so you may need to look elsewhere for more information (but be wary of sales people pushing any particular speaker brand).
Good names in car audio speakers are Infinity, Polk Audio, Boston Acoustics, MB Quart, JL Audio and Focal Utopia depending on how much you want to spend. But note that within each manufacturer's line of speaker models the quality can differ, sometimes significantly.
Also, upon re-reading your post, your friend may have been referring to a filter when he said to add a "crossover" if you don't change the amp. Adding a filter in the form of a large non-polarized capacitor, called a bass blocker, in series with the woofer would indeed cut down on the bass, but this would have about the same affect as turning down the bass control. Many aftermarket amps have an adjustment to cut down the bass as well, but once again this can pretty much be accomplished by adjusting the bass control on the factory sound system.
In addition to checking-out previous posts concerning speakers in this discussion, you might try the "Audio system upgrades (Head units, speakers, CD changers etc.)" discussion in the Edmunds Audio Discussions discussion group, as well as other car audio discussion forums on the web.
Now the problem is finding 5" diameter beams.
Did anyone find anything usable including sealed beam at the low price range?
It is a great find - beats the $400 that dealer quoted me.
I read some of the posts in sounddomain.com and it appears Kappas typically have weak mid bass and harsh treble.
If you don't mind buying over the Internet, there are some reputable but NOT factory authorized dealer selling Kappas for about halve the retail price. These are the same speakers as retail but warranty service is provided by the seller not Infinity. Of course if you do go this route be careful of who you're buying from--checking their reputation and policies.
I don't really want the auto-dimming mirror, and all the stick-on jobs seem to need a battery and are only illuminated on demand by pressing a button.
Is there one out there that looks ok, is hard-wireable, and illuminated?
Tall order, I know...
Glen
These lights measure about 4 inches across and that leaves about 1/2 inch all around inside the bumper opening. I didn't like that much space so I place the PIAA light grill covers that comes with the fog light kit and they did the trick.
All in all it took about two hours. Good Luck to anyone else who tries this. I really like having the fog lights!!
Hope this helps.
Just got our Highlander so excuse any dumb questions. Where did you run it through the firewall? I'm guessing there is a grommet or passthrough somewhere. Is the wire noted above the only one you needed to splice in? No extra relays or anything?
Auto Dimming Mirror Installation Guide
Good luck! Let me know if you run into any problems.
I did not need to cut any of the vehicle's door or trim, but had to make a spacer that goes between the door and speaker to keep the speaker. Two layer thick of 3/4" particle board give about the correct thickness. You will see what I mean when you look at the factory speaker, which has a built-in spacer.
BTW, the rear speakers from the factory are 5.25" but you can install 6.5" with no problems, just be aware that you need to make when making the spacers to use the hole pattern from the rear door (I learned the hard way they are not the same as the front).
I found tips on removing the door panels by searching this forum.
Here's some helpful pictures I found:
http://www.suslow.com/neon/
Good luck.
I also miss the auto on/off headlights that our previous (2000) Camry had. Our 2003 Camry SE doesn't have them either. :-(
Does anyone know if this can be programmed differently ?
Thanks,
Craig.
Thanks,
Craig.
Thanks again,
rox4
I was thinking of having them on anytime the low beams were on, by simply taping into the low beam wires, and eliminating any extra relays or switches. Anyone know if this will draw too much current and lower the output of the low beams, or will this work? Seems too simple...
They have a tough time in a car wash, mostly from the drying blowers. The vibrations can, and did, wear through the paint. I took mine off after about 3 months.