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Honda Civic GX Engine Questions
One of the fuel injectors (#4) on my 2000 GX broke this week at 73k miles. Check engine light flashed and engine ran rough. The last injector (#3) failure was just over a year ago. It is now covered under emission warranty but the warranty is going away soon @80k. Parts and labor cost is expensive - around $800 each at dealer if no warranty. Wonder if this high failure rate is caused by Honda's manufacturing defect or caused by other components or the gas.
I have kept up the maintenance and even changed gas filter a few months ago. Anyone else has injector failing before? Any suggestions to avoid another injector failure?
I have kept up the maintenance and even changed gas filter a few months ago. Anyone else has injector failing before? Any suggestions to avoid another injector failure?
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In the past few months, it has developed a stumbling idle. No troubles with injectors (good thing, they're $550 each!), changed the dist cap, rotor, plugs at 100K mi, so I don't think it is ignition. Out of frustration, I took it to a dealer for service, they have one guy who works on GX. He spent one hour (which cost me $100) to tell me that since it had Bosch Platimum plugs instead of the original NGK, that it would require a full tune-up for $450 before he could diagnose the problem. Precisely why I avoid dealer service. Anyway, I'm confident the plugs are not the problem, but still looking. Anyone have info about fuel filter problems limiting gas flow? I've seen in this forum some discussion about both high pressure and low pressure filters, anyone know whether the 00 has both?, and where they are?
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
Thanks for all the high mileage GX info.
I just had the dealer change the high & low pressure CNG filters @ 49,000 miles on my 2001. $352.00
I was told that Honda will not sell the 2001 & newer a&b cng filters to owners.
It's a GX dealer approved service item for installation only.
I don't know about the CNG filters on your 2000 gx.
I was glad to have the CVT transmission fluid replaced.
It has made a nice difference in the ride of the car.
Next week I start driving my GX from OC to Big Bear once a week for the next six weeks. 200+ miles round trip from sea level to 7,000 ft and back.
I hope I can make it all the way on a full PHILL fill.
It should be very interesting putting snow chains on a GX. :surprise:
I'll keep you all advised
Deon
you're right about the dealer not wanting to sell the CNG Fuel filter. They don't outright refuse, but to have them replace it costs $132 (Part + 1 hr labor), and to purchase the parts is $849. I am strongly leaning towards having the dealer do the replacement (duh!).
Good luck in your weekly runs to Big Bear. I'd rarely get 200 mi range, you must have larger tank(s).
All the best,
Jerry
John
Replacing the low pressure filter is similar to replacing an oil filter. The first step is to relieve the fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve.
I hope this does not become a dealer scam to sell both filters every 10,000 miles when the schedule indicates only an inspection of the high pressure filter every 10,000 miles.
The factory service manuals can be purchased from Helm. The web site is www.helminc.com
I love this forum, you guys are the best.
I have been looking everywhere for the Honda Service Manual GX Supplement. Thanks for the info, I just ordered one.
Speaking of Dealer scams, my Dealer informed me that they recommend removing the CNG tank @ 40,000 miles to inspect and check for leaks. For only $550.00!
I know that before I bought the car it had a warranty service to repair a gas leak. And since I don't smell gas I think I'll hold off on that dealer recommendation.
I did ask the dealer to print out all the warranty repairs Honda had in it's computer for my VIN.
I bought the car just after the warranty expired. I have most of the original work orders from the previous buyer but it was nice to double check what had been serviced before I bought the car.
Thanks Again!
Deon
He again attributed my rough idle to non-OEM parts (I guess Bosch doesn't know how to make Platinum plugs, or automotive spark plug wires). When I was ready to take the plunge and buy the Honda parts, the guy at the parts counter had seen the rough idle problem in the past, and knew it had been fixed by changing the distrubutor base plate. This is the main housing which carries the spindle, and the dist cam sensor. He didn't know whether it was bearing wear causing spindle wobble, sensor position, or sensor failure, but he was pretty sure it would work.
HE WAS RIGHT! $225 USD later, my rough idle was gone. This was great info from a guy who does not diagnose car trouble, but observed what worked to solve this problem in the past. He also agreed with me that Honda parts makers don't have any proprietary pixie dust to make their parts work better than other equivalent parts from alternate suppliers.
All the best,
Jerry
The eight year 80,000 mile warranty covers only the Engine Control Module Module (computer)for the 2005 Federal warranty.
I do not know what the 2000 warranty covers but It may be worthwhile obtaining a copy of the emissions warranty.
The staff at the dealer may need to be reminded about the warranty.
There was no restriction on over-the-counter sales. But the parts guy had a lot of trouble finding the part in the catalog. I needed to show him the diagram in the Honda Service Supplement. It appears that the dealer staff may not have the best training or expierence.
Changing this filter requires specific understanding of the GX fuel system and IS NOT simple as changing an oil filter.
Michael
I am new to this message board, so please bear with me.
I just purchased a Civic GX from Ebay and received it a month ago. It
is a 1998 Honda Civic GX model with only 18k on it. However, after I
drove for a week, the engine light is on. It does not have any
noticable problem except sometimes the rpm is rough when stop. First,
I brought it to a local mechanics who called himself as "Honda
Specialist". He claimed it needs a major tune up (with valve
adjustment) for $500. If the light is still on, then it needs to
replace the ECM (The computer) which costs over $800. I told him to
do the minor tune up but not the valve adjustment which I believe it
has nothing to do with the engine light on and valve should not be
adjusted after 100k (not 18k). After minor tune up and he cleared the
engine light code, it runs fine for a week and then the light is on again.
Does any of you have the engine light on experience and the car is
driving totally fine? What is the finding?
Is there any relationship between the engine light and valve adjustment?
On the other hand, I did smell some natural gas inside the vehicle
after parking overnight or days. Is it normal?
If I want to bring it to Honda dealer, does it requires for CNG
technicians?
Please advise.
Thanks in advance
William
As to a "Minor tune up" ,nothing to tune up. Spark plugs on these last 80,000-100,000 miles easy .I would stay away from that shop.
Bad ecm computer ?, don't think so.
This vehicle may still be under the federal emissions warranty , or if it is a california car , the california emissions warranty.
As to the gas smell , you prob. have a very small leak in one of the fittings at the tank in the trunk.
FBALDWIN is a frequent poster on this board and knows all the emission warranty info.
If you are in so. cal , or the bay area, you have a choice of several dealers with cert. gx tech's.
It is very rare for the computer (ECM or PCM)to fail! It is well protected from damage. The computer sensors or wiring are more likely to fail because of the environment they operate. A trained technician will have a computer "scanner" that can read any stored codes and the data that is produced by the sensors. This would only be the first step in diagnosing any problem with the OBDII system. A specific trouble code will direct the mechanic to a problem area for further diagnoses.
In the late 60's and 70's technicians performed a "tune up" which included replacing the spark plugs, points and other parts that frequently failed. The carburetor idle mixture was adjusted. Most of the time the performance of the engine improved. The term "tune up" does not apply any longer. You will never see "tune up" in the maintence book.
Any technician with training with OBDII or preferably with ASE A6, A8 and L1 certifications should be able to properly diagnose your engine problem.
The fuel system should only be repaired my a technician that has reviewed the Honda GX service supplement.
But this item is very important, not a dealer scam. It prevents contaminants from getting into your engine. There is variation in the quality and content of CNG Fuel obtained at filling stations.
Don't skip this maintenance.
The high-pressure fuel filter is another story. That does not need to be changed until much higher mileage.
Thanks.
Replacing the low pressure filter is similar to replacing an oil filter. The first step is to relieve the fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. This should only be done after reading and understanding the GX manual.
I hope this does not become a dealer scam to sell both filters every 10,000 miles when the schedule indicates only an inspection of the high pressure filter every 10,000 miles. Frequently new car dealers make their own maintenance schedules which include more service and parts (and more profit)than the Honda schedule.
The factory service manuals can be purchased from Helm. The
Thank you very for all of your help. My mechanics finally fixed the problem. After he changed cap & rotor and spark plugs wires, the problem is gone. In addition, he did a tune up.
However, I was told not to use aftermarket parts because the ECM of Honda Civic from year 1998 to 2000 are so sensitive. Any aftermarket parts might trigger the ECM to lit the engine light. I am glad that the first problem is solved.
However, I am looking for the way to find if there is gas leaking because I can smell some natural gas when I first open the door after parking overnight.
In addition, I don't have refueling system (Phill) at home, so I go to PG&E (3000psi) or Pinnacle (3600psi) to refuel. How many mileage it can run with a full tank? The empty tank light will lit when it reaches 150 miles. I believe the tank is 8.5 gallon, but we cannot fill up all with fast-fill such as in PG&E or Pinnacle. With 30 to 34 mpg, what is the maximum mileage I can drive?
Can anyone give me some hint what are the extra maintenance has to do for this CNG NGV car? Thanks in advance.
Real world useable is about 5.5 @3000 , 6.5 @ 3600. The owners with a phil at home get more range than stated above because of the slow fillup.
150 - 175 miles with a 3000# fast filup is about correct.
I have gone 50 miles with the low fuel indicator on many ,many times ,but I ran out once , had to be towed .
Keep in mind ,the fuel gauge is a temperature compensated pressure gauge , not a level gauge.
How much is PG&E ? Last time I was up north ,2003 , they were 97 cents
I was told my 98 civic has a bigger tank (8.5 gge) than 01 to 04 model. Well, I guess the 0.5gge does not make big difference.
On the other hand, I always refuel at Pinnacle with 3600psi. Again, the low fuel indicator always lit up around 150 miles. As you mentioned, you have gone 50 more miles with the low fuel indicator, does it mean I can drive about 200 miles?
Can you explain more about the fuel gauge is a temperature compensated pressure gauge, not a level gauge? do you mean I should not trust the fuel gauge because it also depends on temperature.
PG&E charge $1.86 per gallon. You can refer to this link:
http://www.pge.com/nots/rates/tariffs/GRF.SHTML
Thanks!!!
The low fuel warning is calibrated for about 50 miles , but I try to avoid driving more than 20 after activation.
The 01-05 with the cvt does use approx 10% less fuel per mile.
The "Gauge" . The gas sold to us is 88-90% methane , the rest is propane, co2 , nitrogen ,water , and misc. contaminants. Gas law dictates a given quantity of gas will occupy a certain space at a certain pressure and temperature. Raise the temperature and keep the space constant , and the pressure will rise , but you have the same quantity of gas.
Your honda senses pressure and temperature and its computer makes calculations for the properties of natural gas to give you an approximate amount of fuel left. Actually pretty simple.
Time to get off my soapbox now.
Similarly, cooler ambient temperatures create less pressure for the same weight of CNG, allowing for a larger fill at the same pressure.
The fuel gauge is temperature and pressure compensated.
Filter "B" (the one that is to be replaced every 10K) cost $122.45, carry out, at a Monrovia dealership! This filter looks like an oil filter and it installed near the engine.
Filter "A" is replaced every 30K and serviced every 10K it cost $51.72, carry out.
I hope the aftermarket offers fuel filters for the GX soon to reduce the service cost.
Thanks,
joe
Murphy
joe
Depending on you state your future warranty rights could be limited if you do not have any documentation of a problem.
My local dealer has was very generous with the only warranty issue that I had with my car. And they gave me a ride to my office.
I just saw this so I need to reply. It really depends on WHERE you get your cng. When I first started using methane in '97 (had my '90 Toyota Celica GTS converted), I purchased it from FLEETSTAR at about $1.05/gge in AZ which was 99.9% pure methane made from LNG right at the site. It was the cleanest/purest you could get and my car ran great! (CleanEnergy bought them out and I still don't know how clean CE's is [does anyone know?]). Then I moved, so I had to use Trillium for a year and when I went to get my car emission tested, it FLUNKED :sick: on cng (HC), but passed on gasoline! A cng expert told me that it was the OIL used in the pumps that got in the lines and tank. When I bought my '00 GX I went to APS Electric here (they opened it to the public) and they told me that theirs was also 99.9% pure methane, and once again, it ran great! I just changed the fuel filter (only one high pressure in rear) at 118K miles, it didn't look that bad actually. So I would love to know the purity % for Trillium and CleanEnergy. Thanks.
adea
adea
Thanks,
Anthony
Here's the website if your interested:
http://www.accurateis.com/index.php
One week later I'm noticing a random misfire and some performance problems on freeway acceleration. Hope it's not an injector problem. With 60K coming up, it's time to have a thorough maintenance check.
thank you very much,
brian (epi)
I have a similar misfire on Cylindar 1 problem, and it is seeming to be the injector for cylindar 1 being locked in the open position...
The CA SULEV rating is available to the manufacturer who wishes to make the vehicle qualify , and wishes to warranty for that long. It is not a mandatory rating.
The generation 7 (01-05) and generation 8 (06 and later ) sold in those states do , and will be on the emmisions sticker under the hood.
The rating is also only for the GX first sold in CA and I think MA, and NY. If you take it to other states, the federal warranty applies.
On the fuel injectors, You could call Honda Customer Service and tell them a sad story and how much you love Honda products..... They may split the cost , like Honda pays for the part and you pay for the labor. Remember they have to listen to people complain ALL DAY EVERY DAY , and do not have to do this ,so be polite when you call !
If that does not work out , internet Honda parts dealers like Bernardi, Majestic, or hondapatrscheap.com will sell them for about $350 each. 30% off list price. I have purchased from all 3 .
I have changed both on my generation 7 (01-05). The high pressure one is the same on all years to present. other than having to fabricate a tool to properly re-torque the housing cover to factory spec ( 30 ft lb) , it was no harder than changing spark plugs. 20 minute job, including r and r of the tank brace/filter cover.
The low pressure filter on the 01-05 is a spin -on , exact same size as the oil filter , but it's red and has a thicker shell and different seal. NOT interchangable with an oil filter.
On the 06 and later , I think the low pressure filter is an element in a housing. Never seen or done that one.
The last time I changed filters , they were VERY clean and prob. did not need to be changed.
Any southern california member of cngchat.com can borrow the tool from me , no charge. send a pm on that forum . Also can e-mail photos and info from the gx service supplement.
J.L.
Thanks
Brian
Close the CNG shut-off valve (every GX driver should know where this is, behind the left rear wheel). Let the car idle until it shuts off by itself.
Here's the tricky part. Find a 2' long oil filter wrench.
Unscrew the old oil filter and put the new one on. Open the valve, check for leaks, and start 'er up.
I also adjusted the value clearance since a few mechanics thought that may have been this issue but that didn't fix the problem either.
So I settle for the last resort, I took it to the honda dealership CNG mechanic. He diagnosed that I need to replace all four injectors (550.00 ea), new fuel filter, and catalytic converter. He quoted me a total of something over 3000.00, which I had a hard time swallowing. So I paid for the diagnostic and to have them replace the fuel filter but I held off on the injectors and catalytic convert since I figured I could get them cheaper online.
I found a site that refurbishes CNG injectors (Rockauto.com) and sent my injectors in. They claimed they were able to refurbish 2 of the four. So I bought two new ones from Autozone. The injectors from Autozone look exactly like the originals and were only 167.00 a piece with shipping. Has anyone had luck with CNG injectors from Autozone? I am a bit suspicious of them since they are half the price of the other cheapest online injectors I could find.
Once I had all four injectors (2 refurbs and 2 new from AZ) I installed all four but the check engine light came on again and it still idled a bit rough and hesitated upon acceleration at times. I was able to drive it around town fine but it just wasn't running up to par.
So I researched about troubleshooting faulty catalytic converters and found out that engine sputters, hesitation or unequal power may result from a bad catalytic converter. Also, I noticed at times on the freeway the car acted as if it had a govenor on it and this was one of the symptoms of a bad cata converter. After reading about these symptoms I was certain that was my problem. So I decided to remove the catalytic converter to see if I could determine whether or not it was bad. Upon removal I could clearly see that the insides were not intact; therefore, I performed a little surgery to help determine if blockage caused by the broken internals of the catalytic converter was causing the car problem. I completely removed the internals and reinstalled the catalytic converter but the check engine light is back on and the engine sputters (misfires) and hesitates upon acceleration still.
Any ideas as to what the problem may be? Is it possible that some piece from inside the catalytic converter could have fallen out and causing blockage farther down the exhaust pipe? Could the lack of internals result in mis-representative O2 reading from the two sensors on the catalytic converter, thus resulting in sputtering and hesitation upon acceleration? I am all out of ideas. Any suggestion would be helpful. Thanks and sorry for the lengthy post.