Mazda5 Warning Lights & Problem Codes

lolo2

Is it normal for the Security Indicator Light to flash when the key is taken out of the ignition and continue to flash until the car is started again. My car has only 300 miles on it and today was the first time this has happened.

frank4cars

I hope so. Mine does that all the time.

dabatman

I've been reading about the check engine light coming on... I'm hoping it is because the gas cap wan't on properly...

Is everyone this is happening to getting thier Leak Detection Pump replaced??? as Markii of Dec 02, 2005 did? I was hoping I could just take it to a AutoZone and have them hook up the code reader and reset it...?

Any other thoughts on this???

Thanks!!!

simon76

I purchased a 2007 Touring model back in November 2006. I have around 5300 miles on my car now and haven't gotten an oil change yet. My 'check engine' light came on this morning. Do you think this is programmed to turn on around this time or is there a problem with my car. I made an appointment for my first oil change next week but I'm just wondering if anybody else had their 'check engine' light turn on around 5300 miles.

simon76

I noticed that when I run low or completely out of washer fluid, my 'low washer fluid' light doesn't come on. Has anybody else noticed this or is there something wrong with the sensor in my car?

shayes2

We have 25,000 miles on our Mazda5 and our check engine light came on two weeks ago, and it was just a case (per the dealer) of the fuel cap not being properly tightened. I drove it for a week thinking it would reset which it never did, so I had the dealer check the code and reset the light.

w00000t

Yes, that it how it lets you know it is armed and working. You should be worried if it DOESN'T flash or come on. It probably always has, you just didn't notice until now. I have owned my Mazda5 a month now and didn't notice the light until last week and had to look it up in the manual.

jonat1x

Does anyone know how to reset the light - i.e. make it go off? It is a nuisance to have to go to the dealer to reset it just because of a loose gas cap.

athenasius

when you say it is low are you talking about for the back or the front wiper. the reason i ask is because the pump is set higher on the back so that it will no be able to draw any fluild before the light comes on then when it gets low enough to affect the front ones it will finally go on. so when the back one runs out(even though they are from the same tank) i know i must soon get some and if i forget the light comes on when the front pump is soon to run out. hope that makes sense

athenasius

i remember this issue when the car first came out if people over filled it the same issue. i would think you would have to get someone with a 2 way code reader to reset it. whether it is the dealer of some one with the equipment. If i remember correctly VW could reset the codes by disconnecting the battery over night

sundance5

My daughter's 2003 Mazda 6 stopped working. She is unable to lock/unlock the car using the auto lock feature but can lock/unlock the doors manually. However, nothing works when she inserts the key in the ignition. She says the security indicator light comes on and that the dials for the instruments start to pulsate. Any ideas?

coolmazda5

Although this is a Mazda5 area I might think the Mazda3, Mazda5 and Mazda6 have similar immobilizer systems.

a) If you have 2 or more sets of keys and all, except one, work, the faulty key might not be recognized anymore. Either the key has to be reprogrammed or you may need to cut and reprogram a new key. You need 2 good keys to reprogram a 3rd one (this is for security reasons, i.e. valet parking)...

b) If none of the set of keys works, the car immobilizer system has issues. In this case you will need to take it with a dealer to check it out.

vicenac

This reply is a year later, but maybe it benefits someone else....
The battery is low. When the battery is low all needles in the instrument cluster will pulsate, i.e. go up and down.
It happened to my CX-7. Just needed a jump.

mazda3_fix

I got it working!!!

My Mazda (3) started flipping out with lights flashing and horn beeping.

Apparently, the car immobilized and went into lock out mode.

Nothing worked - the remote starter, turning the key, using the spare, etc.
I Googled pages of threads without any clue except taking it to the dealer.

But, I fixed it!

All I did was jump start the car. That's it.

I put the key to "On" so, I could put it into Neutral.
Then, I pushed it next to my other vehicle.
Then hooked up jumper cables for a minute or two and it started right up!

I think the whole security thing is triggered by a battery that is a little low.

I hope this helps.

bprenderson

How do I make the following Personalization Feature changes on a 2012 M5 w/out going to the dealer:

1. Turn the interior lights off w/ the door ajar after 10 minutes instead of 30 min?

2. Unlock all the doors and tailgate w/ one push of the unlock button instead of two?

3. The time required for the doors to relock automatically after unlocking with the
transmitter to 60 secs instead of 30 secs?

Thanks,
Bubba

whobodym

I'd like know too, and I have some experience to warn you off of trying to go to the dealer, too. (at least as of 2010 when I tried with then-new MZ3) My first dealer visit, like you with 3 non-default personalization requests (different ones though) resulted in outcome #1 - done OK, #2 - not done with no mention of it, just ignored, and #3 - being told the manual was wrong and my car couldn't do that. Another dealer needed to get #2 and #3.
I would suggest maybe the factory shop manual might discuss it, but I won't buy one of those either because I did get one for my 2006 MZ5, and it seems to be written in some form of Klingon instead of English -- e.g. the plastic engine cover is called the "plug hole plate cover".

whobodym

My 2006 Mazda5 has just returned from a trip to California from Seattle, during which it turned on its check-engine-light crossing the Siskiyou summit near Ashland OR -- both directions. All driving behavior has remained normal, including trip gas mileage (27 mpg for average speeds 70-75 -- it's a 5MT). The first time, the light stayed on steadily (while running) for 3 days or so. Today I bought an OBD scanner and find that the trouble code is "insufficient coolant temperature". Which hardly seems like a problem, when you coast 5 or 10 miles downhile at high speed in fairly cool weather, of course the engine can cool down below normal operating temperature.

Is this behavior considered totally normal? Or is my car's thermostat not quite cutting out the radiator as much as it should?

bprenderson

Thanks, Who.

The dealer in Austin said they would condecend to do it for $156.00. Buster says this is way too much. We'll live w/ it the way it is. :mad:

Thanks... B

whobodym

I take it this is a "changing your mind" kind of thing, after one previous session of having them fiddle with the personalization? At least in 2010 when I bought mine, the first session at the dealer setting up personalization was free.

davicho

Your thermostat is sticking. Replace it, it will definitely come back. I also ignored it and cleared the code and it came back on after a couple of weeks. I replaced the thermostat and flushed the coolant. No more CEL or codes for that.

whobodym

Thanks, I grant you're probably right -- but just to check, you do realize how mountainous the terrain I was in is, right? I really do mean totally coasting, zero fuel flow for 5 or 10 minutes, at 75+ mph the whole way, descending thousands of feet of altitude. The ambient temp was 50-60F. This has never occurred, not even once, on a smaller downhill.

davicho

Correct! Mine also turned on while coasting on the freeway at about 75+ miles an hour on a flat area very late at night with a temperature of about 50 degrees.