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Pontiac Montana Electrical Issues



  • My parents have a 2004 Montana with just under 63,000 miles. The fuel gauge always reads above the full mark regardless of the tank level. The needle is usually all the way over and resting on the temperature gauge. The temperature gauge works most of the time but occasionally will go directly up to hot (even if it's been sitting overnight and is completely cold). A mechanic checked it out but did not find a problem with the cooling system. Any advice before we turn this over to the dealer and pay way too much for repairs? Thanks,
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,650
    For the fuel gauge problem, for most vehicles it would be a problem with sensor in tank, may be that but could also be an issue with he c-305 connector (its a passthrough connector on floor behind drivers seat). I could guess the tep problem may be issue with temp sensor.
  • The 2 power window switches on the driver side do not work on the drivers side front window nor on the passenger side front window. When you push the button(s) nothing happens. Now if you press the passengers side window switch - the window goes down slow and only moves about an inch then stops. What could be the problem? switch(es)? motor? Where should I start the troubleshooting process? Before the windows stopped working on the drivers side, the windows started to work slower than normal. You would have to press the window button, then depress the switch and press again to get the window going - but then it completly stopped working.

    Thank you
  • The problem turned out to be the instrument cluster which had to be replaced. I called GM on my parent's behalf and they worked with us on an equitable compromise. I was pleased with the good customer service we received from GM.
  • On here they talked about dash lights out, blowing fuses, not running lights, and chimes going off. We checked all the previous post and did not find the problem, Finally found a new problem that was causing all this and a fix for it. In the left rear fender well under the car by the air compressor if you have one, there is a connection for the towing package if you have one installed. We found this towing package control box from Drawtite had shorted out internally and melted and burned, there was a burnt smell in the area. It is winter and lots of snow here. It also burned wires in the area but were only for the towing connection. The fix, if you don't need to tow anything just unplug and remove the 6 to 9 foot bundle of wires going to the trailer connector and tape up plug in connector. It you tow things, you need to replace all of it.
  • I had my cruise control on 67 radio up all the sudden, lost power, pushed gas got rpm's no acceleration. pushed brakes, pulling over car died. tried to start, puttered alot wouldnt go over 3 grand. Dyagnostic machine reads NO CODES at all. redid all gaskets and gromits on top end changed oil, anti-freeze, put together, new fluids, all connected, will crank but not fire? getting spark and gas. wants to start but wont. rented dyignostic machine no codes good or bad! just none!!! rechecked pcm alls good. #2 spark plug real wet, #4 kinda wet, #6 dry??? Any help before i pull 1,3 and 5 plugs cause thier a pain to get to???
  • This switch broke this morning leaving window in down position. I heard a cracking sound (breaking plastic) when I tried to open the window. Clearly the switch is broken and I'll replace it. Can anyone suggest how to close the window (what connections to bridge on the cable?) I am reluctant to just hook a jumper between two points that I think are right; the switch unit has electronics and I'm just not sure how to proceed.
  • I would simply jump the middle post of the bottom of the switch to one of the posts beside it.
    I cannot say which post but dont keep the jumper on too long when testing in case you have the Window down post.
    A scrap yard will have a good spare part.
    You can indeed safely do this.
  • kadyekadye Posts: 1
    Ok so I have been told (without this person looking at it) that my current problem is a fried wiring harness. This is what's going on. All of my taillights and turn signals have stopped working. When the turn signal occasionally works, the clock and thing that tells me what direction I am going also blinks in time with the signal. When I step on the brake, both of those lights go completely out and the turn signal arrows light up on the dash until I take my foot off the brake.
  • jhirneisenjhirneisen Posts: 64
    Sounds like the dreaded rear tail-light short problem. This has been discussed several times on this Forum.
    The tail-light bulb SOCKET shorts out...between the black power lead and one or more of the other colored wires. The GM supplier used plastic that would not tollerate normal heat. Solution: check bulb sockets for melted / smelly plastic....cut out that bulb socket and replace with a new one....not a used one from a junk yard.....there may be more than one bad socket. Use a new bulb also. Hope you are good with electronics and repairs. Be advised that there are almost 300 Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins on that type of vehicle.
    Good luck.
  • dancarsdancars Posts: 1
    Not sure how this forum works - but I have a 2000 Pontiac Montanna and when I turn on my lights, the dash board flickers - strobes really. Anyone else have issues like this?
  • mailmail Posts: 10
    Yep... same thing happened to me. There is a TSB on it and I replaced a screw on the side of my alt (that is accessible only by feel) that is about 2 mm longer than the one that you take out. Find the TSB and you'll find the proceedure and part you need. No garantee that it is this, but it was for me. $6 part. I'd have to say that when I did it it worked 100%.... after 3 years it occasionally does it but no where near what it was. Before you attempt yourself be certain you have the skill - I don't take any responsibility for you dropping the screw in the alt or misthreding, etc which could be very very expensive to repair ! My 2 cents anyway.
  • poortimpoortim Posts: 3
    are there any complicating factors to replace a battery on a Montana 2006 for an auto repair newbie?
  • mailmail Posts: 10
    If it is the same as a 2000 remove plastic black cover over the wiper blades, remove the crash bar over the battery (2+1 bolts) and slide out of fuse box, remove screws holding down fuse box and hold up with bungie (carefully not to kink anything), may have to remove temperature sensor or unplug just beside the rad, you should be able to get at the bolt to the batty on the back side (holds the battery down - might be rusted), remove the battery post screws, carefully slide out the battery (may need to tilt it on its side a bit). Its a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] job but youshould be able to get it out. Make damn sure you do NOT kink any wires - especially the think black presure tube running from the top of the engine to behind the battery. Good luck !
  • poortimpoortim Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    so I replaced the battery (the instructions given were perfect) but it still will not start. It is like it is dead. But it starts with a jump cable boost. So I do not understand.
  • greg145greg145 Posts: 1
    Poortim, I have the same problem. I replaced the battery today but nothing. Did you find a solution?
  • pontownerpontowner Posts: 1
    Dash light will not go on,dimmer control will turn dome light on and off.
  • billy48billy48 Posts: 1
    Yesterday I locked the van with remote but when returned remote woould not work. After unlocking with key no inside lights , electric windows don't work ,radio quits when key is turned off and clock doesn't keep time.Any ideas what happened ?
  • My pontiac montana power rear windows just quit closing is there a fuse that operates them that can be replaced or is there another explanation for it. I don't have the fuse panel diagram to look at or my book to the used vehicle can anyone help?
  • I signed up just to say Thank You for all the comments & great info.
    We had weird turn signal flickering when braking or when lights were on issue.
    Had to replace both left & right rear female pigtails. As middle Black connector was melted on both.
  • It might not be a fuse. The window itself sometimes sticks to the window rubber molding. Try taking the motor off of the window, then run the motor to see if it works. With the motor disconnected from the window you can use your hand to "pop" the window away from the rubber window gasket. Then clean the window where it meets the gasket, then apply a silicone spray on the gasket. The silicone will last about 6 months, so you must do this about every 6 months. I finally stopped using the window!!
  • Glad to be of assistance.
    It's too bad GM will not admit to this common electrical problem.
    My local GM dealer says "we never had anyone else with this problem".
    My friends at the GM Technical Center tell me they have known of this problem for 12 years!
  • I have had the same issue with my rear tail lights as well. I was advised since GM won't do anything about it to spread some Di-electric (bulb grease) on both sides of the adapter and the pig tail. Have not had an issue for almost 6 months now. I do check it from time to time.
  • Hello all,

    We are having some trouble with our 2006 Pontiac SV6. Suddenly all the power windows, power locks, and the rear backup sensor have stopped working. When we press the window up/down button we hear a clicking from the driver side dash. All other things seem to be working fine (radio,cd,dvd, dash lights, etc). Can someone please tell us what it could be? and How do we fix it? It sure would be good if we could get a Haynes manual for this model!

    thank you so much!
  • added:

    I also just noticed that the rear window wiper is not working. We checked all fuses -- all seem to be fine.
  • I have a pontiac montana 6v6 2008. Several times the warning lights comes on:
    stability control, abs system, tire inflation. Master mechanic checked and said they moved the harness slightly and secured it. However after the 2nd day of driving on a bad road with lots of bumps; the warning lights came on again intermittenly.
    Will changing the complete harness solve the problems?
    Looking for solutions.
  • Might be the problem descibed many times before on this Forum.......bad rear tail light Pig-Tails (where tail lites plug into the wiring harness). The plug hot wire is shorting out with the other colored wires due to GM using inferior plastic plug that can't take the heat....melts! Part was built by an outside supplier. GM continues to deny this. Replace the Pig-tails...GM has the parts...about $45 per PIg-tail.
  • Imagine that, fix one issue & another starts.
    Now the air compressor won't shut off.
    Any advice, I'm going to check connection under rear tire well to see if any wires are bad.
    Thanks again to Jack & all posters, for all your help.
  • Is it the Auxilary Air Compresor (used to fill tires, tubes and kids pool stuff) (if you have that option) or the Shock Absorber Load Leveling Air Compressor that is running?
    If it's the Shock Absorber Load Leveling Compressor, it could be:
    1. rear leveling sensor is bad, causing the compressor to pump more air to try to fill the leveling shocks. or...
    2. one of the 1/4 inch diameter air tubes from the compressor to the shocks is disconnected, broken or cracked...leaking air.
  • ronkeyronkey Posts: 11
    Turn the key on,and push the accelerator pedal three times slowly,within 5 seconds,this will reset the oil change light.And napa auto parts has the fuel pump [non-permissible content removed],includes sending unit,for 242.00 dollars,and surely some one can do the job for 65.00 dollars or so.
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