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Dodge Sprinter Starting/Stalling Issues
I have a 2002 Dodge Sprinter that seems to loose power after it has been driven a few hours, and then it must sit for 10 to 30 minutes before it will start again. It acts like there is either no fuel or the airflow is restricted.
In the morning everyhting is fine, but later on it feels like you are towing a trailer and there is no pickup or passing gear, like the turbo is not working. Then if you turn it off it will not start for a while, leaving my driver sitting there for awhile. It works fine when I take it to the shop and starts every time. They finally saw the loss of power and blamed it on some carbon deposits...but we turned it off on the way back from the shop and it would not start.. It was in an accident awhile back and recently we replaced 2 of the turbo hoses,(at different times)..on it's way back to the shop now...Can anyone help me with this one???
:mad:
In the morning everyhting is fine, but later on it feels like you are towing a trailer and there is no pickup or passing gear, like the turbo is not working. Then if you turn it off it will not start for a while, leaving my driver sitting there for awhile. It works fine when I take it to the shop and starts every time. They finally saw the loss of power and blamed it on some carbon deposits...but we turned it off on the way back from the shop and it would not start.. It was in an accident awhile back and recently we replaced 2 of the turbo hoses,(at different times)..on it's way back to the shop now...Can anyone help me with this one???

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Comments
Sounds similar to problems with each of the following not already mentioned by surlyoldbill...
1) turbo connector box (plastic part between turbo and intercooler)
2) temp sensor on intake air
3) mass air sensor
4) EGR restriction (not showing as EGR failure
5) bad fuel (oops surlyoldbill took that one already)
Are there really no bad codes in the computer? The Sprinter should have codes on just about every sensor and very few things can be wrong without a code of some kind...
KenB :confuse:
I've put 7,500 miles on the chassis which carries an Itasca Navion Class C motorhome. I've got issues with that too but that's another story.
Engine light appears about every 4-5 starts. Sometimes it goes out after a few miles. Sometimes it doesn't and I take it to the dealer. Three times out of four, they've told me they could find no problem and I guess they just reset the thing.
Scary part came when I started up an 8 percent grade in the middle of Wisconsin with rigs rolling fast behind me and beside me and suddenly lost most of the power--chugged up the hill at about 30 mph, pulled into a Wal-Mart parking lot, and then got a free 100-mile tow to the nearest dealer. They fixed and made it back to Maryland fine. But this is getting a little out of hand or maybe I'm just been spoiled by driving Japanese products 150K doing nothing but routine maintenance and never having a problem.
Any ideas? I use only brand name, #2 fuel. Is the engine control unit faulty? You'd think that would pop right up on a scan.
Konaray
what did they "FIX" when they towed you in?
That would give us a better chance to understand and help you with your fears about your Sprinter Chassis. We have quite a bit of experience around the forum.
Fears are good when they keep us out of trouble, not so good when they errode our overall confidence...
KenB :confuse:
As crazy as it sounds, the problem seems to be connected to low CABIN temperatures. When I leave my RV heater plugged in and heating, I get no start errors even when the engine is cold. Anyone have any ideas what the cause of this is? Thanks! Doug
Perform this test with the engine at operating temperature. This test will assist in determining a defective or internally leaking injector(s) is present by measuring the amount of fuel return.
Turn the ignition off.
Remove the engine cover
Disconnect the fuel return hoses at the top of the injectors.
Pinch off the oil return line.
Disconnect the fuel rail solenoid.
Install the test vials onto the injectors and secure with the return hose clips(Special Tool # 9545).
Start the engine for ten seconds while monitoring each inner test vial.
After ten seconds, a maximum of two graduation lines may be reached. If the level has exceeded the two graduation line, replace that effected cylinder's injector, clear the memory using the scan tool and retest. If the level did not pass the two graduation line limit, continue with the diagnostic manual.
Hope this will help you.
Jim
It has plenty of power, and we've towed it to the dealership 3 times so far. Each time it gets to them, they give it back because they can't duplicate the problem.
Anybody?
Any ideas please let me know.
Thanks very much Bob
I bought this van used, it had 45,000 miles on it. I have driven it 50,000 miles this year. I have saved lots of money in fuel cost, but the repair bills are killing me.
Anyone else having second thoughts about their sprinter purchase? :confuse:
Bob
So, the BLADE of the key should be OK, but if it broke off, then the quality is BAD.
If you just need a new blade (to relpace a bad one), then you should be able to use it in the original remote, or just always have the remote with you.
KenB
Having bought a new 2004 in 2005 (last on lot sort of thing), I am more and more happy that mine was completely assembled in Germany and checked out thoroughly by someone (and delivered with a full tank)... I bought a wagon (passenger) model.
My dealership problems, however, have not been much better... however, i have never had a fuel problem, and am still on the original filter (39K miles). I have the new filter, and no time to install it... I won't pay over $120 for the dealership to install it!!!
No brake problems yet, but certainly we have seen forums mentioning the need to replace rotors and pads together for some people, especially heavy in-town drivers/delivery people.
Daimler Chrysler should be sorry that they sold you such a problem. I have driven Chevy, Ford (gas and diesel), and very seldom a Dodge Ram van... and now a Sprinter. For my good luck (knock wood) the Sprinter is the best, but it is not driven for work, just back and forth to work... My maintenance, on my van is working so much better than the dealership work.
KenB :sick:
2003 Freightliner Sprinter with just over 200,000 miles, but not without issues.
Current issue is the engines dies during any number of events some are very serious situations such as just passed a real truck at 75 mph and pulled back in front of it and accelerating. The first time this happened I just dived in to the emergency lane. It was good for me there were no other broken down vehicles in that spot or the sprinter would have been a hood ornament. Dash lights still lit but engine dead as a hammer. I had a long drive through eastern Tn. especially over the mountians, as passing gear and heavy throttle seemed to cause it to happen more readily. I learned to turn the key off and back on immediately to keep from getting run over.
Now, sometimes in the morning after starting, pressing the brake pedal kills the engine. I got smart and started the engine with my foot on the brake pedal. Once lowering the driver window killed the engine. Several times when the "engine dying" was happening frequently all of the analog gauges went to zero for a few seconds, then popped back up to normal.
Diagnosis, is a instrument cluster fault. Cost to replace and see if this really is the source, $718 part cost.
I bought this Sprinter new in late 2003. I never saw a "wait to start" light illuminate once or ever. Never saw a clogged filter light ever, but know I had clogged filters and replaced when there is a power loss at high speed.
I was hoping for a loose connection on the instrument cluster. I removed the instrument cluster last evening, but no loose connectors, but a strange "black box" "RKE-Immobilizer" attached to the back of the cluster with a big wire harness connection but no physical electrical connections to the instrument cluster.
Could this "Immobilizer" be what killing the engine?
I would appreciate any thoughts or proven solutions
Does anyone know a dealership that DOES work on these in the MSP/St Paul area, and not just a Dodge/Chrysler Dealer that sells them and claims to service them?
More information would be helpful...
Fuel issues are common amongst diesels regardless of make/model.
1) Fuel filter plugging in cold weather,
2) filter clogging from dirty fuel,
3) clogged air filter (dirty or snow sucked up/in (powder)),
4) oil sensor/sender (tells computer you are out of oil or low on pressure),
5) some things that kick in the limp-home-mode could also either seem like a stall, or become a stall situation.
6) water in fuel (but not enough to setoff sensor)
7) computer/network failure
8) ECM (engine control module failure)
9) chaffed wires somewhere shorting out/crossing
10) EGR stuck open (clean/replace depending on age/condition)
This is a wide open field of inquiry.
A good Mercedes shop (I mean an independant garage, with crafts-persons doing the work) will be a good resource if they know CAN/bus and DRBII/III computer codes. They will have to have access to the diagnosis manuals for Sprinters.
It seems odd for a Sprinter dealer to not also have Dodge Cummins diesel pickups as well... Further looks for Spritner dealers/repair in your area should include Freightliner dealers who also sell (or did sell Sprinters).
KenB :sick:
When the van is started the auxillary fan to the air conditioner kicks in and the motor sounds as if it is racing.....the van then dies. Restart the van and it will start fine, no fan running, no racing engine.....but you put the van in reverse and once again it dies......wait a few minutes and it starts and drives normally. This only happens when you first start it. There's no loss of power no lights come on and the mechanics have found no coding errors. Any ideas?
One bit of warning for those considering a Sprinter van......mechanics who are licensed or one who knows how to work on these vans are limited and regardless of the problem (in our experience) when you leave the dealership expect to pay $$ for any service on these vans. Our experience has always been at least $500 per visit and has been as much as $1700 and expect to be without the vehicle for at least one day if not a week at a time. Seems these "qualified trained" mechanics don't know where to start if the code reader doesn't detect anything. :
I had a key to 03 sprinter made at the best locksmith shop in town. They found a blank that had the same profile but was thicker, so they ground it thin enough to fit in the lock then cut the teeth the normal way.
After locking the key in the van several times this wallet backup has saved many precious hours and a lot stress. It will unlock the doors no problem.
I have been having problems with my sliding side door from day one. Recently it doesn't unlatch. Yesterday, I used the dash mounted unlock button, got out and attempted to open the door, which was a mistake. after pulling on the door latch, I heard the unmistakable sound of all of the doors locking, clunk,clunk. As you may expect I had left the key in the ignition. These Sprinters can have a mind of their on. It was suggested to me that I should find a Priest and have an "exercism performed".
The local dealer who has very short term experience said that it was a faulty instrument cluster. But at $718 for the replacement cluster I am reluctant to put with that much precious green stuff. Maybe if I can find a dealer who will let me "try before you buy"?
The Sensors mount in the back of the pads, not in/on the rotors. An actual explanation of WHY is in order if sensors are somehow related to rotors...
Yes, I have heard that if you let the pads go too far you might have to replace the sensors. Also constant wet conditions could get to your brake sensors and cause problems.
KenB :confuse:
Joe
Our parts and repairs have come through a Freightliner dealer.
The EGR valve was replaced at 35,000+, just under the warranty expiration.
The "loss of power" was clearly due to the fuel filter which I just replaced. I had to drive it for a short while in that condition while finding the filter, directions for replacing it, and something else to drive while hunting. A useful owner's manual would be nice. I've downloaded a free pdf of the Service Manual. That'll do.
I can say that it started fine throughout and never just quit altogether. That sounds like another issue.
The passenger side door neither responds to the key signal nor to the lock switch. Since that happened simultaneously and all the other doors work properly, I think it's probably the door's motor that's out. Does that sound logical? Any other ideas?
Otherwise, the Sprinter is a pleasure to drive and use
The dealer has replace 1 glow plug and the "module" with no success.
Anyone have any ideas?
Reading your posts I got scared. Did I do the wrong thing?
The vehicle has some problems. After running for 1/2 hour did not want to start, I
waited for 20 minutes and it run fine. Looks that this is a common problem.
I need help/suggestions/opinions on the following:
1.-I downloaded a manual that has all the DBR III codes but found out the price of
a DBR III reader, I can not afford it so can someone please advise if a I buy a
CAN-BUS OBD-II would it read the codes? does it have to be Mercedes or any
CAN OBD-II? ther are some made in China for $35
2.-Problem. When I drive at speeds of 40-50-60 MPH runs fine, the transmission
shifts nicely both manual and auto, but when I go to a STOP and it slows down
with the engine, not the brake, at 25 MPH a horrible vibration occurs below
somewhere around the transmission. I looked under and tested the driveshaft
shaking it Up and Down and sideways, there is a small click around the bearing
that holds and connects the two shafts. Could this bearing be the problem?
has someone experiewnced this problem?
Dear people your response will be greatly apprciated.
This directly ties into the remote keyless entry so use the key only to open and lock the doors. Do not use the key fob.
Could it be the cruise control ?