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You are not overdue for OilChange... (OCI is 10,000 miles. so you have 2K more miles left to go) HOWEVER: I prefer to do my OilChanges on the even 10K mile marks so they are easy to remember.
Consider these other maintainace items If they have not been done for awhile.
*) Clean Snowscreen (at least once a year!)
*) Replace Cabin Filter (at least pull it out and clean it a bit)
*) Replace Fuel Filter
Here is a webpage with photos of coolant reservoir
(And explains a common problem called "coolant migration")
I relize these photos are a TDI... but I beleive all the MKIV engines have the same coolant reservoir.
Now that you can locate the coolant reservoir and install the proper E10 liquid. You can check the functioning of the waterpump by observing the small hose plugged into the upper part of the coolant reservoir. With engine idling, this hose should be 'peeing' antifreeze into the coolant reservoir at all times.
I cannot tell you how much liquid the system holds because you did not tell us WHICH ENGINE you have. (VW offered at least 4 different engines on that vehicle)
Pls let me know.
Thanks,
Pankaj
the car is a jetta gl with a 4 cyl -- I think its the 1.8 but its not turbo so I dont know if thats correct. Also, can I get the g12 coolant at any auto parts store or do I need to get it from volkswagen? And what is the E10 liquid?
Thanks!
There are several sources for "G12" antifreeze. Obviously, the dealersip will have it at a price. Also, any foriegn-parts suppliers will have G12.
Beware that some of the available G12 will be "premixed" and ready to pour in.... other G12 will need to be mixed with DISTILLED water before adding to cooling-system.
Do not mix any automobile antifreeze with tapwater.... the impurities in the water may affect it.
Can anyone give me instructions, pics would be great, on how to change this thing.
thank you in advance for your assistance.
Chris :confuse:
Went to the dealer today (can't find the Castrol in the stores yet) and bought a qt.
The part number is ZVW352540S DSP. Castrol SLX Professional LL03. SAE 5W-30. 1.05 qt. "Meets VW 507.000 specs." Cost was $6.49 (tax not included).
Hope this helps clear up some of the confusion I've seen here and on other forums.
Are you trying to be funny? You may never ever find VW507.00 spec oil in a "store". However, the price you paid is very reasonable for VW507.00. (are you CERTAIN it is 507.00?.... many dealerships have been known to inadvertantly put the WRONG oil into TDIs... thus voiding the warantee.)
The only place I purchase my oil is from ==> tdiparts.com
In fact, I have a 5L bottle which I just orderd... time for the 110,000 mile oil-change.
Have you checked at your local dealer to see if they sell the oil you need?
Price per liter for Mobil-1 ESP 5W-30 is $6,99. The price is the same for the Mobil-1 Formula M 5W-40 but it is packaged in quarts.
I agree that you should look for the best deal you can... I suspect your dealer has MIS-priced that 507 stuff and is loosing about $5 per liter they sell. That $6.39 sure looks like the standard dealer-price for the lower-grade oil which is for the older TDIs.
...that "clean diesel" oil (507.00) is normally VERY expensive
Also, any recommendations where I could find an air filter for this car?
BTW: Be aware that there are superceded VW-specs that may meet "VW 502.00" .
For example "VW 505.00" meets "VW 502.00" spec
... but you will not find "VW 505.00" oil in WallyMart.
Perhaps it comes as a surprise to some folks... but European vehicles commonly specify unique oil which may not be readdly available in American auto-stores. I have been ordering my oil from TDI parts website for many years.
Thanks!
NOTE: PDFGENI is a repositry for many documents stored in PDF (Portable Document Format). Some of them are compressed into RAR files. (WinRAR archiver) and need to be uncompressed before viewing.
IIRC, our manual says it is "okay" to use 5W-30 if 5W-40 is not available. Personally I'd not choose to use the just "okay" viscosity, when the preferred viscosity is readily available.
Edit: Elsewhere on the intenets, someone has posted that it is "European Edge 5w-30 that's on the VW list, but not the US Edge 5w-30. Despite having the same name in both markets, they're not the same oil." I guess you gotta see VW 502 on the bottle to be sure.
Here is VW's oil list:
http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/maintenance/en/us/images/vw_oil_recommendations.p- df
I have a 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 with 90K miles. The engine code is AZG and the tranny code is FDF. Not sure that helps, but I want to be thorough. I will be starting to share this car with my 16 year old daughter soon and I want to make sure she is safe. The problem is, I've been a somewhat neglectful (but very lucky) owner. So far, aside from basic oil/filter/fuel/tire changes, I've have:
- A new MAF sensor put in at 80K miles
- A few hoses replaced
- Brakes replaced
I think that's it. Unfortunately, I had kept my records in the garage and there was a fire, so I lost a lot of documentation.
FYI, I have generally used synthetic oil, 5-40, except for occasionally top offs. When I refilled radiator I used water only (bad, I know).
Today, I had some major repairs after my car began overheating a little.
- Water pump replaced
- Timing belt replaced
- Tensioner replaced
- Serpentine belt replaced
- Thermostat replaced
- Coolant flush and refill
All of these were done for the first time at 90K miles -- I know, very bad.
My question is this: I want to have other things looked at -- things I've neglected -- to ensure the car is as safe as possible for her. In reading through the forums, here are the items I think I should have done, inspected, etc. I would love your feedback on these items. Car is running fine so far, no codes, no issues -- I just want to be proactive and prevent something I SHOULD be expecting due to my neglect. Some seem basic and obvious, others might seem too paranoid. Please let me know?
I am thinking:
- another brake check up
- axle/boot/suspension check-up
- brake fluid change (been done only once, I believe, years ago)
- new ignition wires?
- new spark plug wires and spark plugs?
- check ignition coil pack?
- throttle body check?
- check oil pump with pressure gauage?
- check catalytic converter?
- transmission oil replacement?
Can some of these things (eg, throttle body) be checked even if they are not currently presenting a problem? And are there items I am overlooking?
Thank you very, very much.
None of the things on your list are really "safety" items. (car wont blow up if you dont do them)
Here is your list with my comments on each: (Many of your items are ALREADY checked by the onboard computer as you drive)
- another brake check up (this is simple as visually inspecting the pad-thickness)
- axle/boot/suspension check-up (Another simple visual-inspection)
- brake fluid change (Should be done every 2-3 years lest rust can cause expensive repairs)
- new ignition wires? (same as"sparkplug wires")
- new spark plug wires and spark plugs? (It is about time to replace these... but not imperitive if engine is running OK... the CEL will lite if problems occor )
- check ignition coil pack? (nothing to check... ... the CEL will lite if problems occor)
- throttle body check? (nothing to check...... the CEL will lite if problems occor)
- check oil pump with pressure gauage? (the oil-pressure sensor monitors this at all times, if there was a problem, the lite will come on.)
- check catalytic converter? (This is tested by the onboard computer every time you drive... the CEL will lite up if it is not working)
- transmission oil replacement? (good idea for longevety of the car)
So now my question. Everything, including the Harleys, run on Mobil 1. I changed everything over in the late 80's or early 90's after doing my own research and finding that sythetic is indeed much better. I would like to run Mobil 1 in the Jetta and Beetle, but which one meets all the gobledy [non-permissible content removed] numbers and specs? I have also emailed Mobil 1, but don't have an "in" anymore to engineering there. Does anyone out there know? I want these engines to sail past 300,000 and would love to see them going at 500,000, and I believe that Mobil 1 is the way to get 'er done.
For what its worth, I just recently changed the transmission fluid to Royal Purple. The only thing we run in trannys and differentials including 4WD. VW wouldn't change it, told me was not compatible. I thought, hmmmmmm?, and contacted Royal Purple and had the opportunity to talk to one of their engineers who, after doing his own research, called me back a week later and felt that I was upgrading from what the dealership was using in my area and that Royal Purple was certainly as good, if not better, than what VW recommends.
Living out in the country, it is much easier to order things by the case and be able to use it in multiple vehicles. Now that I am ready to change the oil, I would like to ensure that I don't mess up the engine in my baby with something that it doesn't like. Other diesels on the place are Ford, so I know there is probably a big difference.
Your owner's manual will indicate the oil you need to use, it's pretty simple, designated by a three digit number. I think the spec is VW 505 for diesel engines. The oil should indicate on the bottle what specs it meets. Mobil also indicates on it's website what specs their oil meets, for example:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.asp#SpecsApp- rovalsTitle
You would do well to simply use what VW specifies and not even try to use a "compatable" fluid.
Many VWs specifiy this VW partNumber ==> G052162A2 (Meets VW TL 52162)
If you have TipTronic xmisison ==> G052990A2
I usually order my VW supplies and parts from IDI Parts
In refernce to consuming antifreeze, you need to figure out where it is going. It could be anything from a simple leak... to a blown head-gasket. UNDER NO CIRCIMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE ANTHING BUT G12 ANTIFREEZE... using anything else can cause corrosion/plugging of the cooling system which can lead to engine-damage.
I need help! lol! I have a cpl of problems with my jetta, one is that when i crank the car a high whining noise occurs and fades off, and it does this when idleing. Also i don't know how to read the dipstick... where should my oil level be? Also i'm loosin oil and don't know where its going? i'd appreciate any help on these problems.
Thanks
Josh Forbes
Under no circomstances should you allow the "oil light" to come on. This lights DOES NOT tell you that the oil is low... it tells you that your engine is self-destructing due to metal-to-metal contact of the moving parts. Never EVER drive with oil-lite on. Turn off engine immeadiately!
Wining noise could be from many different things. It could be the power-steering pump. Does the sound change when you turn the steering wheel?
If you drive a 2001 2.0L VW... you need to know how to use the dipstick because you should be checking the oil every time you fill the gastank.
1) Vehicle should be sitting on level ground
2) Let engine sit for at least 5 minutes after running so oil settles to pan.
3) Pull dipstick out and wipe off oil. (Keep xtra McDonalds napkins for this purpose!)
4) Push dipstick back in all the way till it seats.
5) Pull out dipstick and look at oil-level.
6) Level should be within the "hashmarks" on the dipstick.
I just purchased a 2003 VW Jetta 2.0 about 3,000 miles ago and am now due for an oil change....but it seems to be more complicated then I expected.
The previous owner did his own oil changes with synthetic oil.
One shop say only German made synthetic, the other says it doesn't matter and the third says synthetic blend or bust...
So my question is- at 61,000 miles, doing general freeway and road driving conditions WHAT TYPE OF OIL SHOULD I USE!
Thanks for your assistance!
Use brand-name 5W30 oil in your 2.0L. I beleive 7500 miles is the factory OCI. (Oil Change Interval)
Of course, synthetic oil wont *hurt* anything either... but it is overkill in the 2.0L.
The new models use Diesel Particulate Filters (DPFs) and absolutely require these oils to keep the expensive DPF in working order.
I would check the owner's manual for service of the transmission. I don't believe you need the transmission fluid changed in your tiptronic transmission for many more miles.
Bel Air Car Guy
I have a 2008 VW JEtta 2.5 S, ( 29k miles approx).
My question is , can i get away with the usual engine oil change, or is synthetic oil best for engine life and efficiency in the long run?.
Just want to get an idea on what others are doing.
According to what i read on internet , ordinary oil change lasts 3k miles and synthetic like 6k miles.
Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks!.
As I recall, due to the issues caused by using dino-oil (from dead dinosaurs)... VW has specified for ALL of its vehicles to use synthetic oil.
Instead of reading generic internet information, may I suggest that you visit the VW website which will tell you SPECIFICALLY what kind of oil and how often it should be changed. (Or read your owners manual)