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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions



  • My problem seems fairly similar to that posted a earlier in the board. Our '98 Intrigue will run up to close to the 3/4 mark when it's warm out and I get stuck in traffic at all (i.e. no natural air flow over the radiator). The odd thing is that contrary to common sense this actually improves when I turn on the A/C and it goes back down to a normal level. Turns out the cooling fans are not coming on except when the A/C is turned on, no matter how hot the car gets. So it seems like maybe a problem with the fan temperature switch (supposed to turn on the fans when the coolant reaches a certain temp). Anyone have any idea where this is or had this problem resolved, I can't find this switch/sensor and based on my previous experience with GM mechanics it'll take them at least $500 to figure it out.
    Thanks for any help; also FYI, if anyone ever has a power window motor go south on them it's the easiest thing in the world to replace and can be done in about an hour max with a screw driver and a socket set and the motor for about $100 from the local parts store (dealer wanted close ~$500 to do it).
  • My 2000 Intrigue has 57k mi. on it and is experencing its second case of hard starting. The dealer replaced the crank sensor (factory manual says it has two of them) at 47k and fixed the problem. Now its doing it again but the dealer can't duplicate the problem now, although I can of course as soon as I got it home!! It acts like its been flooded when it finally does start because a small cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust. Anyone else have this problem?
  • I had a similar but worse problem than you. My car would not start AT ALL. Ths happened after the engine got to operating temp and it was hot outside. If I turned off the car, then restarted it when it was still hot, it would not start. Only after it had cooled completely (hours later) it would start. After 5 trips to the dealer, they finally were able to reproduce it and found out it was the fuel pressure regulator. I still occasionally get the hard start (while the engine is warm, of course) but the engine does start.

    Apparently there isn't enough pressure in the fuel line and the regulator controls the pump. It's as if the pump is caught asleep at its post, and then it jumps up and groggily does its job.

    Ask them to check the fuel pressure regulator.
    (BTW, they replaced BOTH of my crank sensors before they found the real problem)

    Good luck!
  • I have a 98 Intrigue. Frustrated & very disappointed with ongoing repairs to solve clunking in front end and in brake pedal. My Intrigue has been serviced several times for the same ongoing clunking as well as having the driver & passenger doors realigned 3 times. Other less significant problems; squeeking in the front end caused by driving over a bump in the road. Squeeking is annoyingly loud and re-occurs. Sounds like I'm driving a 20 year old car! I purchased this car for high safety ratings & reliability. I unfortunately can't help feeling unsafe. The clunking in the brake pedal has again become so severe, & due in for service yet again next week. This time service is with another dealer in another town. I understand that other 98 owners have experienced these same problems. Has anyone had the clunking problems resolved?? GM doesn't understand that some of us folks just CAN'T sell their problem car and purchase another. Some of us purchase cars for long-term especially when spending $25,000+ on such a vehicle. I would expect these problems from lower end model cars and/or with older model vehicles not a 2-3-4 year old car. Look, style & comfort is A+. Looking for input on clunking problem. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • Jan 98 and Ketch

    The GM solution for the clunking problem you are having in the steering column of your intrigue is to lubricate the intermediate steering shaft (or column?). Its a very common intrigue problem, but the lubrication seems to work. (you can do a search of this message board and find out more). Mine hasn't been a problem in the 3 months since it was fixed, although I am worried I may have to re-lubricate it every so often. I think it would have cost about $80 at the dealer, maybe more, but mine was fixed under warranty so I can't quite remember. Good luck. The link below has more.
  • see message 65, crank shaft sensor but same problem then they replaced the crank shaft sensor and the ignition switch and it has been ok ever since - go figure. jc
  • butltcbutltc Posts: 3
    I haven't seen any transmission postings here, so maybe this is the first.

    I have a 98 Intrigue GL that just clicked over 48,000 miles. As soon as that happened, the transmission began slipping terribly. It's sitting at the dealer now, who says that it's shot. That's a $2,400+ repair on a car whose blue book isn't even $7,000.

    No response yet from Oldsmobile as to whether they would like to participate in funding this repair.

    Any others with similar problems?

  • tandertander Posts: 21
    The OE Goodyear Eagles on my 99 GL 3.5 are about shot, cant decide on whether to get Michelin Pilot HGT or Michlin X1 (or XRadial at Sams Club). Dilemma is H tires are probable more fun, but S tires have 80,000 tread life. Finally, apart from price,is there any difference between michlin XOnes and the sams Club exclusive, Michelin Xradials
  • jg28jg28 Posts: 257
    my bro in law's Intrigue had a similar problem with only 34K on it. Transmission completely shot and had to be replaced. This was on a 2001 GL. Luckily LUCKILY it was still under warranty.
  • donp9donp9 Posts: 29
    My 2000 Intrigue with 64000 Km has developed a ticking sound when I start it cold. Sounds like lifters. I can also hear it when it warms up but not as bad. It may have always been there however I just noticed it the other day. Dealer says it is normal operating noise. Anybody else having the same symptoms?
  • wbhallwbhall Posts: 39
    (I thought I should repost this in the proper forum)

    I would like to thank whoever posted the contact "Eddie Goodwin at Biddolph Arrowhead Oldsmobile @ 623-933-3900" for latest information on this dimming problem. He was very knowledgable on this issue and didn't try to hurry me away even though I'm calling from a different state and not one of his customers. If all GM dealers had Service Managers like him we as customers would be a lot happier!

    (FYI-My Intrigue is a 2002 model)
    The problem with the dimming lights is only on the 3.5 liter engines which were used in the Intrigues. The culprit is the "Air Injection Pump" that kicks on to add more air to the fuel injection system. This pump pulls 45-60 watts of power which then causes the lights to dim. There is no current fix for this problem but he said the last he knew, GM was looking at re-writing the program so that the pump doesn't kick on all at once and cause the lights to dim. He also said there is nothing to worry to about in regards to the lights quit working all together. Changing the alternator wouldn't help because my 2002 would already have the newest version! I mentioned back to him that I have actually had the car in front of me at night (driving on the highway) wave back at me because he thought I was flashing my lights at him and that wasn't good and he agreed with me on that. With that happening by being accidently in a bad section of some town could possibly cause some bad things to happen. I know I'm be a little melow dramatic there but anything is possible in the world we live in today!

    I hope that this answer or lack of an answer helps everyone with the dimming light problem!
  • wbhallwbhall Posts: 39
    Has anyone else ran into this problem? On my 2002 Intrigue with the lights set in the "off position", when it gets dark outside the headlights will turn on automatically like they should but the dashlights and tail-lights don't. If I manually move the light switch to the "headlights position" they work fine. Anyone?
  • butltcbutltc Posts: 3
    So, I went to Oldsmobile's web site to inform them of the problem.

    I promptly got an e-mail response, which said, "We sincerely apologize for the Transmission Failure you are experiencing with your 1998 BUICK Intrigue (caps mine)."

    No wonder there's a problem! I thought I was driving an Olds, and it's actually a Buick!

    The local dealer, Paul Brothers Oldsmobile in Herndon, Virginia, ran some interference for me with the regional service manager, and the customer service person I spoke with at Oldsmobile was very pleasant. We ended up splitting the difference on the replacement transmission. While it still hurts to shell out nearly $1,400, I know I'm certainly not entitled to a new unit at no charge, since I used 48,000 miles worth of the old transmission. Plus, with the rest of the car in good shape, I'd rather pay that than be strapped with a $500 payment each month on a new car.

    Paul Brothers had the car finised a day earlier than promised, and it now runs like a champ.

    Overall, it was no fun, but I will say that the dealer and Olds customer service kept a bad situation from being much worse.
  • kfpkfp Posts: 1
    I have had my 2001 Intrigue since I purchased it new in July of 2001. I have enjoyed the car immensely until that last month. The car has under 18,000 miles on it. I have noticed that the steering becomes very stiff at intermittent times. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to the timing of this problem. I took it into the dealership and they replaced the cooling line of the power steering unit, taking 5 days to complete. That repair made no difference. We have taken it back twice since then to no avail. The second time my wife took it in, they test drove it and a new 2002 Intrigue and after an hour and a half, claimed there was no difference in the steering between them. They called me at work and I told them that I had bought the car new and that its steering now certainly wasn't what it had been when I bought the car. The next time was just today. My wife took it in. They again drove the car and said they couldn't duplicate any problem. They looked up service bulletins for older model Intrigues but didn't seem to think that they applied to mine. They said they didn't know what to do. They said that replacing the power steering pump might solve the problem, but that if they replaced it and it didn't solve the problem that GM might think they were incompetent by doing something that didn't solve the problem. They sent my wife home after an hour and a half and told her to have me bring it by again some time so that we could go for a ride together. What a joke! Does anyone out there have any suggestions or have experienced similar problems?
  • The rear windows on my '99 Intrigue GL are stuck, they work sometimes occasionally though, anybody else have this problem?
  • wbhallwbhall Posts: 39
    After finally convincing the local service rep by having my salesman tell them that my 2002 Intrique does have the automatic light feature they got "Tech Assistance" involved to help them with the problem. The problem ended up being a relay coil. Automatic light feature works again! Now if only the lights wouldn't dim anymore! Sigh!
  • tag44tag44 Posts: 4
    This is my first time posting a message. I have read about all the problems for a couple of weeks now. I have a 99 with just over 50,000 miles and have had the steering shaft replaced twice and have had it lubed two times. There have been people asking if they are going to have to pay for having it lubed after it goes off warranty. The answer to that is yes. My dealership charges $110.00 plus tax. The first time I had the steering shaft replaced I had the car for six months and it only had just over 7000 miles on it. The dealership that replaced it put down on the paper that it was replaced "due to poor design",(this is working in my favor). Its funny that GM is now trying to say its a maintance problem, when most of you and I and GM knows better than that. How many other cars have you had in the past that needed the steering shaft lubed as a regular normal maintence.
    Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is a long one and I'm trying to keep it short. I'm still in the process of fighting this. I have gone through the steps in the back of the owners manual on how to resolve these problems. Here are a few things I've learned. The customer service people will drag you along until the time expires for you to get anything done about it through the steps in the book. Even if it means paying for the work after the warranty has just gone off. The more time you waste dealing with the customer service people (although they make you think they really care and are going to help you) the older your car gets and the more miles you run up on it. The BBB Auto line people can only help you while your car in still under warranty with GM, so if you are having problems with the steering shaft and its under warranty, start fighting this problem now, its not going to go away. The day after I called the BBB to file with them, I get a call from a customer service person (yes the same people I have been working with). Now I still haven't received the paperwork from the BBB, because its the very next day. Anyway, she informed me that its too late to file with the BBB, but that they are willing to give me a letter to carry in my glove box that I can get my steering shaft repaired free for 6yrs or 100,000 miles which ever comes first. So you people that are still under warranty, there's an option for you. I turned it down, because I'm not going to save that much money with that offer and I feel I have a good case against GM right now, with the first paper stating that it was a poor design. I'm not sure if I've covered everything that can help people out. Like I said its a long story and I'm still in the process of fighting GM on this, but I just wanted to let people know that if you are going to fight it, it should be easier for you while its still under warranty. Beware of the Customer service people, remember they work for GM, no matter how much they make you feel they are on your side.
  • 1999 Oldsmobile GX. 69,000 miles. Transmission pressure control valve and 4 solenoids need to be replaced. Estimated cost of repair is $992 plus $90 to diagnose the problem. Any similar problems? What disposition was reached with customer assistance representative?
  • tandertander Posts: 21
    Ive heard from several sources that the 3.5 motot was discontinued because it leaks oil. My mechanic says mine is still ok but to keep an eye on it. Any similar experiences out there?
  • tag44tag44 Posts: 4
    Chatuge, if you were asking me. I haven't had any transmission problems. I'm not working with the GM Reps anymore. I'm seeking leagal advice and filing with the Consumer Affairs. Everyone with repeat problems should be filing with the Better Business and Consumer Affairs, the more reports of problems the better it is for all the people having repeated problems. The more problems reported the more they will check into things.
  • My 99 GX has a similar problem. Both of the rear windows stop working on occasion for no apparent reason. The driver's side rear one was "fixed" at one point, but now makes a funny clunking noise when passing about halfway up/down. At some point, it will be brought back in for this, as it drives me nuts.

    The passenger side rear window, I've noticed, is more likely to stop working after a really heavy rain. It'll stop working for days, and then all of a sudden, start working again. The window motor was replaced at one point, due to "broken wiring", but I actually wonder if they replaced anything at all.

  • hues10hues10 Posts: 10
    '98 GL Intrigue here with 50K miles. Starting to have a problem with a hesitation in the transmission, when going approx. 50 mph and coasting in the Overdrive gear, I step on the gas to accelerate, and it "bucks" once or twice before downshifting into a lower gear and goes.

    Has anyone else had similar problems which turned out to be the dreaded solenoid replacement in the tranny. What were your tranny symptoms.

    I brought it to the dealer yesterday, and they could not find anything wrong. They said the transmission oil looked fine and it might be a fuel injector thing. I doubt it cause it has no problems accelerating normally, only when in the Overdrive gear at 50 mph.

    Help, I may be trading this in real soon.
  • kfp,

    Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. I had the same problem with my 99 GLS 3.5 about a year ago at around 50-60K miles. Mine was mainly at low speeds, like turning into a parking space. It got progressively worse so that it felt like there was no power assist at all. Since I bought mine before Olds got its death sentence, my warranty was only good for 36K, and I didn't get an extended warranty.

    After a visit or two where they said they couldn't duplicate the problem, they first replaced the intermediate shaft. No help with the main problem, but that strange clunking noise went away. Then they replaced the steering rack, with their reasoning being that the seals in the rack had deteriorated, which was causing a pressure drop. That worked for about 2 weeks, then the problem came back. They replaced the rack again, still had the problem. Finally they replaced the pump (and I think the pulley for it), and the problem was fixed. All in all, the car was in their hands for over 5 weeks total while this was all going on. I paid full price for the ISS (around $400 if I recall), and after hours on the phone with Olds, the dealer, and their district manager, I got the rack for 1/2 of the warranty price, so around $400 more.

    It sounds like they're on the right track with yours. Make sure they follow through. You have plenty of miles left on your warranty, but they still like to drag their heels on these things. Mine got progressively worse, so eventually they won't even be able to deny it. The ride-along is a good idea, and once it gets bad enough, you'll be able to tell when their guy can't turn the wheel without two hands.

    Good luck!
  • I have a 98 Intrigue, which I bought used with 42000mi and has been running fine for the last 6500mi I’ve put on it. The other day the car started fine and I drove off. A half-mile later, the tachometer and temperature gauge stopped working, and the “trac control” light came on the console along with the “service soon” light. A half-mile after that, the tachometer and temp gauge kicked back on, and the “trac-control” and “service soon” light went off, but the red security light came on. I stopped the car shortly after and it remained off for a half hour. When I restarted the ignition, the security light stayed off, but the “trac-control” light came on and stayed on along with the “Anti-lock brake” light. Since then, the service light has not come back on.
    I unplugged my battery, and forgot about it for a few hours, hoping it would reset. When I reconnected the + terminal, the "trac control" light went out, apparently permanently. Now I can't get it to respond at all when I hit the button on the consol behind the shift lever. Usually I could turn the "trac control" button on and off and it would let me know if it was engaged with a light on the consol. Now I can't get that light to work at all. Also, the "Anti-Lock Brake" light is still on constantly. According to the manual, this may mean I don't have anti-lock brakes, though I haven't noticed a change in the way the car stops. I have checked all the fuses and they are fine. In addition, it’s been raining pretty steadily for the last couple of weeks. Could the damp weather be a culprit for this problem? I have not hit any unusually large mud puddles.
    In addition to all this, since I unplugged the radio, there is an anti-theft lock that engaged on it, which works when the radio looses its battery connection. The radio will no longer work until I plug in a code that will disengage the lock. When I bought the car, they never told me about this feature, nor did they supply the override code. It is a big pain but it doesn't really worry me because the dealer I bought it from said they will fix it for me when I’m in town. I was just wondering if anyone could help because I now live in North Carolina, and I bought the car in New York. I hate the thought of my next long ride to New York without a radio.
  • jcne3jcne3 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Intrigue GL with 58K. Car has been great- no transmission or engine problems. Replaced steering gear once.

    However,my front Passenger Door has been sticking for several months now. Dealer fixed several weeks ago and now problem is back.

    Door is hard to open from outside and harder from the inside.

    Anyone had this problem and fixed it?
  • ketchketch Posts: 217
    Got the ISS lube, and it made all the difference, although I suspect I'll have to have it again, out of warrantee, in another 30k miles. The dealer also replaced a rear strut/shock that caused some noise. Thanks to all who provided me the ISS lube info and TSB data! to the aformentioned door problem, i also had my door (pass. one) start to bind when opening. It required the door latch to be re-aligned, which I did myself, and so far, a year later it still works. Many cars develop some door sag as they pile on the miles, requiring some adjustment.
  • That's the first I'd heard that the sticking door was due to an mis-aligned door latch. The usual culprit is the trim at the top of the door. Take a look at the top, back corner of the door. There's a strip of trim on the outside that rides in a track along the top of the door. In some Intrigues, that trim is not attached and tends to slide out over time. Once it sticks out about a half inch, it starts to make the door stick. Several people have said they had the dealer fix it permanantly, but my dealer never could. I just use a rubber mallet and pound it back in when it starts sticking out.
  • I was told that there's a silent recall for
    the Intrigue 2000 steering shaft. I am experiencing knocking noise during turns.
  • Hello everyone.. I just purchased a 2000 GL a few weeks ago and out of the blue the "Service Engine Soon" light came on and the engine almost died. It acted like it was starving for gas. I of course had it towed back to the dealer where I purchased it and they said they would take care of it. (Which I expected)

    As of today 5 days later they finally said it was a bad Crank Sensor. They seem to think it's not a problem but after some research on my own I found out it could be very extensive. Let me say there are 40k miles on the car when I purchased it.

    My question is do I have a reason to be concerned in the future for similar problems? I really like thew car as a whole and thought I got a good deal.

    Any Ideas? Thanks !
This discussion has been closed.