We are aware of the login problems affecting the forums, and appreciate your patience as we work on a fix.
Did you recently purchase a new Tesla, Rivian or Lucid vehicle directly from the manufacturer and willing to share how your experience compared to previous vehicle purchases made through a traditional dealer? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 2/19 for details.
Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
oscarz2
Member Posts: 153
Still waiting for a solution. Has a mind of it's own and does it once in a while: kind of gurgles right to idle (briefly) on start when engine is warm, as opposed to a normal crank where rpms smoothly jump above 1,000 rps and then settle at idle.
On another note that may be related: I notice a vibration at idle. About every two seconds I feel the motor vibrate and then it's smooth again. Back and forth like clockwork (about 3 seconds apart). It seems that for 3 seconds, idle is smooth and then it vibrates for 2 seconds. I feel it in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. It's not real pronounced but noticeable. When I stare at rpms, It appears to drop on a miniscule level during the vibration. I mean you have to really look closely to see it move (it's that minor of a change). Maybe a millimeter at the most. I've never mentioned this to the dealer but I will at next visit. Maybe my motor just needs to be idled higher? I'll check rpms at warm idle and follow up to compare with some of y'all. I use Chevron gas (87 octane).
On another note that may be related: I notice a vibration at idle. About every two seconds I feel the motor vibrate and then it's smooth again. Back and forth like clockwork (about 3 seconds apart). It seems that for 3 seconds, idle is smooth and then it vibrates for 2 seconds. I feel it in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. It's not real pronounced but noticeable. When I stare at rpms, It appears to drop on a miniscule level during the vibration. I mean you have to really look closely to see it move (it's that minor of a change). Maybe a millimeter at the most. I've never mentioned this to the dealer but I will at next visit. Maybe my motor just needs to be idled higher? I'll check rpms at warm idle and follow up to compare with some of y'all. I use Chevron gas (87 octane).
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
not the most nice sounding thing. Don' worry about it.
Also, the gas mileage is not as good as I expected. I am only getting about 16.5 around town (which is not a large metropolitan area - just a smallish city) and about 18 mixed highway and city.
All help appreciated.
As for the mileage, my 2000 GL was horrific for the first 4-5 tanks and then quickly got better. I get about 18 city and 28 highway now. Mixed is around 21-22. I'm estimating as I have to convert from L/KMs,
Hope that helps.
When making a hard turn right or left from a stop I hear a groan from beneath the hood. Kind of reminds me of a power steering pump struggling. don't hear it on slight turns.
When driving the car there is an incessant clicking noise from the seat belt recoil area near my left ear. It seems to fade as the air conditioned cools the car but returns when the car is hot. I'd hate to start jamming foam rubber between cracks in that area.
Has anyone noticed any of these 2 noises?
Thanks,
Randy
New Orleans, LA.
I'm on my second Intrigue. Had it for about the same amount of time. I'll listen out to see if I hear it in mine as well. Haven't so far.
Is this a known problem or am I just one of the unlucky ones? Anyone know what could be problem?
The manager jumped in the car to analyze my concerns.
1. The groan that I hear is the AS brake system which only happens one time after each start. He said it was part of the start-up(pump). He said it was normal for this car. Guess I'll just have to live with it.
2. That noise I was hearing near my left ear was not coming from the weather-stripping but from the head rest. It was fully extended and when I exert a force forwards on the headrest it stops. I collapsed the headrest down all the way and the noise disappears.
First you must turn on your wipers and turn off the car when the wipers are in the upper most position, opposite of the parked position.
Second you must raise the hood and remove the plastic washer type screws (2 or 3 not sure) on the right side (passenger) air plenum cover. You will notice that this black plastic cover is split midway across the window. It may be necessary to giggle it a bit as this half cover wraps around a little under the passenger fender.
When you get plenum cover out , Ta da , the filter is sitting there, about 4 by 10 inches. It must be lifted at the front, enough to clear the metal holder frame and slid out .
Naturally, replacement is the reverse order . Good luck
Any way, the plastic screws are a pain. Try lifting up or wiggling on the screws as you are unscrewing. I find they are more like a plug than a screw.
Hope this helps.
I brought it in but the service advisor just couldn't here it. My wife and I could here it but he couldn't. Maybe his tolerance for incidental noise is much higher than mine.
Frustrated at the lack of interest by my dealer I investegated myself and found the trouble to be the plastic retainer pins that holds the lower part of the door covering to the metal door. These plastic pins would move causing this irriating noise.
Not wanting to deal with my unconcerned dealer I popped-out these lower pins and applied a small amount of lithium grease to the pins and now that noise is history.
My 3.5 burns oil too. About a quart every 3K. This will vary depending on driving and other conditions. It is normal for this engine but 2 quarts is a bit high. A service advisor told me that for this motor, it takes almost 10 minutes for all of the oil to drain into the pan. I don't know if that's true but keep that in mind when checking next time.
As for gremlins, I have the record on my 2001 12000kms. Dealer, even gm rep ( paid to say no) can't hear or experience any of my problems.
I have a 99 GLS (4-99) and my steering is heavier than it used to be. Also, had intermediate shaft replaced and this tightened it up but didn't fix the heaviness.
About 3 months ago, I complained about heaviness and minor shudder to dealer. They checked it out and said GM is aware of problem but "no fix" at this time.
Later, I noticed a TSB on steering and took it in again (referring to the TSB). Mechanic said steering normal, no problems found. When I asked about the TSB, they said the TSB is for 3.8L Intrigues.
So basically we're stuck with power steering that doesn't give enough assist unless, a new pump or something does the trick. Dealer won't do anything because mechanic say's it's normal. Well yeah, it's a normal defect.
This is why I was inquiring about MagasteerII on the main board. If you get a pump or something else replaced and it helps, post it. That info will help others pursuade their dealers to do the same.
Since I'm still under warranty, they're not eager to solve problems. Sounds like your outside of warranty so I'm sure they'll find something.
Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, my problem is beyond heaviness, to the point that it takes 2 hands and a lot of elbow grease to pull into a parking spot.
I am out of warranty (55K miles), and the explanation for the first rack replacement was that the interior seals were going bad, restricting fluid flow at low pump speeds. Sounded logical, but still a pretty significant defect given the age of the car. The new rack did help briefly, but within a few weeks it was worse than before. I was very interested in your question about MagnasteerII, but from the responses, looks like that's a dead end. I'll let you know how I make out with the second rack replacement.
If you lose it at low rpm , i would look at your pump. There isnt a lot clearance in the blades of the pump and if they are worn , then they lose the ability to build pressure until the rpm increase forces the fluid into the pressure hose.
Have you looked at the fluid for smell and colour. Dirty??
Also the magnetsteer II has an input shaft angle sensor which i believe is used with a computer to alter the applied pressure (either at the punp or the rack )depending on the angle of the rack input and the speed of the vechile. hence the variable power steering. When parking you get more assist the more you turn the wheel while at highway speeds you lose power which makes the car more directional and less prone to lateral drift, however, when you want to change lanes, the steering tends to be heavier than conventional steering. ie. no steering with your knee while you open a bag of chips.
There may also be a tie in with PCS??
THe story of pressure differential in the rack is correct for normal power steering, if you turn the wheel the valving will direct pressure to the direction you want to go. However, im not sure if the 99's had variable steering or Pcs. Something to consider.
If you go to (delphi .com)? site and look up the magnesteer pages and pour through them you will get a more technical discription of the operation of the rack and the magnesteer system.
The dealer diagnosed it as a faulty crankshaft sensor. He replaced it under warranty and it seems to have fixed the problem.
Anyone else had this solution?
Recently, the car died in a drive-thru (twice), but luckily it restarted and I got it to the dealer. They said, "faulty crankshaft sensor found" and they replaced it. That was about a month ago. Since then, I've had one rough start but it's colder outside now (maybe that's a factor?) and motor has not died.
When I first went in they told me that they fixed the issue in 2000.
Nevertheless I am on my 3 rd altenator. The second one decreased the problem but did not get rid of it. Still waiting for the verdict on the third as it only has a few hundred klics.
Message 37 says they had four and now your 2002. I am thinking that they are still in the woods.
Go to the sedan board for intrigues and take a boo at the posts I put there in the last couple of days if you want to get a clearer picture.
I brought it to the dealer and received the standard "that's normal".
Anyone else experience that groan at forst start-up?
Thanks,
Randy
Any idea what the problem is? TIA.
Could all these problems be related? Has anyone had similar problems, and if so how were they solved? From these posts it seems the dealers are very incompetent.
I've seen dozens of comments about replacing the defective steering shafts, but no comments about just lubricating them. The service manager told me GM was now recommending lubrication as a first step, to see if this will stop the play. The implication is that if it doesn’t, replacement would be the next step. In my experience, greasing a worn bearing will tighten it up for a while, but it is no long-term fix.
Anyone else had their steering shaft greased, and if so, did it work?
I wonder how long the new rack will last. It does seem to be a later model, because it gives better steering response.
I noticed this for the first time last year and one of the local service shops in Denver recommended flushing the radiator. This is technically not needed with the Dex-cool system until 150k, but I did it anyway. The problem remains.
I've checked and double-checked the fluid level, and it seems fine. I use only the dex-cool anti-freeze with a 100% mixture. Has anyone else run into this issue or have any ideas on how to fix it? When the summer comes in full force, commuting becomes a game of watching the heat gauge and hoping for continuously moving traffic with no hills. Is there a natural tendency for cars to overheat in higher altitudes due to there being less air, and if so, is there anything I can do about it?