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Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon
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Comments
-juice
-mike
Anyway the practical upshot is this: if you find that after you step on the gas hard, the engine doesn't go back down to idle, look under the hood, it's right on top center just in front of the intercooler you'll see a cable not sitting in its track in this curved metal thing. Put it back in it's track and you'll be fine. Go to the dealer and get the clip.
The Legacy Wagon is a great car, but is bigger and heavier than the Impreza, and cannot be modified to the same extent. As a result, it will not perform at the same level.
Any particular basis for this line of reasoning??? I believe there is no need for an STi Wagon because of the new Legacy Wagon would be far more useful and can be modified to equal or better than a stock STi standards.
Essentially if you are street driving an STi wagon or a Legacy Wagon, you will out-drive the roads before running out of car, if you are racing on the track, you wouldn't use a wagon due to the extra weight of the hatch/glass/rigidity issues.
-mike
Also, thought the 2.5T can be modified a great deal since it is basically a detuned STi engine.
Car and Driver just had an article on the Saabaru, and it was very favorable. It basically called it a more civilized WRX without loosing the fun factor. Also made a comment that the Saab might have another first in this new Millenium - winning some comparison tests.
- besides putting in more sound deadening material and many exterior body-pannel modifications, also put in stiffer springs and softer shocks. Put about 1.8 degrees of toe-in (I think that is what it said), and did another adjustment to the links and bushings. Was able to get a skid-pad rating of 0.86 gs with 215-45s and Potenza RE011 tires vs. 0.79-0.80 gs with the WRX wagon (this from Road and Track). Personally, think it has more to do with the wheel and tire set-up though.
Having seen it in person, I wouldn't trade my 04 WRX, tho...no way. Standing there on the lot, and looking at the 92X, then you look around at the other cars on the lot, and being SAAB (you all know this...) they all look THE SAME. SAAB after SAAB, row after row.... they're like a little clone army. Nice looking clones, I admit, but clones nonetheless. If you want a car that has some individuality,some personality, you're way better off with the WRX.
SAAB should change its slogan from "The State of Independence" to "The State of Same-ness". Yuk.
Bob
Subaru sells BBS rims, but dealers usually stock other types of rims (cheaper, not forged).
-juice
Bob
Can you say L E G A C Y G T ?
Bob
They need to take a page from their aircraft namesakes. Just send all the jobs over to the customer nation and someone outside Sweden may even want to buy your plane.And then make sure support comes from a big name. Thats what Saab AB have had to do to sell their Gripen fighter. First link up with big name, here, British Aerospace. Then promise 100% + industrial offsets to the customer. Only competition they have not won by this marketing approach is the Polish Air Force one, and thats because the US taxpayer is ultimately going to end up paying for all those F16s! Why do you think they are in Iraq?
Come to think of it, FHI has probably made more planes since WW2 than Saab.Though albeit mostly foreign designs under licence. Add up WW2 production from FHI predecessors and there are few companies still around who made as many as they did except for the real big names in aerospace.
-juice
by comparison:
WRX Sedan, C&D 5.4 (comparison) and 5.9 (long-term)
5.7 secs by MT and R&T.
WRX Wagon (R&T) - 5.8 secs manual, 6.7 secs auto.
Grip -
CD
17"
Saabaru - 0.86 gs. 17" 215 RE011
WRX Sedan - 0.83 gs., 17" 235 Kumos Esctas (or whatever they are called)
16"
WRX Sedan - 0.82 gs (Comparison)
WRX Sedan - 0.81 gs (long-term)
R&T - 17", 215 (Tire unknown, think it was a Bridgstone), BBS wheels
WRX Sedan - 0.87 gs.
Summer tires make the 2nd part no surprise.
-juice
difficulty engaging the reverse idler is something that many manual transmissions have. the solution for all of them is to put it in first and creep forwardly just slightly, then engage reverse. sometimes you don't even have to move, just clutch 1st-> keep clutch down -> reverse
have fun with your new WRX!
~c
Nicholas
-Frank
CD
17"
Saabaru - 0.86 gs. 17" 215 RE011
WRX Sedan - 0.83 gs., 17" 235 Kumos Esctas (or whatever they are called)
16"
WRX Sedan - 0.82 gs (Comparison)
WRX Sedan - 0.81 gs (long-term)
R&T - 17", 215 (Tire unknown, think it was a Bridgstone), BBS wheels
WRX Sedan - 0.87 gs.
Wow I think that the SVX in '92 pulled in like .92 or.95 on stock all season 16" tires.... Imagine what it could pull in on some grippy tires????
-mike
-mike
~c
It's hard to compare these meaningfully unless you do it back-to-back.
-juice
Ain't that the truth. Unless vehicles are tested at the same time, acceleration and road holding figures can't be definitively compared.
-Frank
350Z - Track - 0.88gs
Corvette - 0.92gs
S2000 - 0.88gs (latest), 0.90-0.92gs ('00-'03)
Ferrari 360 - 0.92gs (est.)
Too bad the SVX was not more widely popular. Was and still is a great car.
Just wondering if there's a difference in gs.
-Dave
-juice
I wouldn't mind the more subtle hoodscoop for my wrx though. I looked and looked and there doesn't seem to be an easy conversion
Don
-juice
I ran out to my car, and you're absolutley right! there is a little SRS label on the side of the seat. I've actually noticed those before, so I guess what I'm wondering how they deploy... they rip open the side of the seat, and just blow through all that seat stitching and whatever.... ?
Yep, that pretty much about sums it up :-)
-Frank
IIHS just started testing side impacts and cars with those air bags did so much better that I think the market will begin demanding more of these. Safety still does sell.
-juice
Enough to stop a full-grown man going 60 mph ;-)
-Frank
-mike
So I have to replace all four tires because I got a small nail in the corner edge wall of one. Oh well.
1) is this true? I can understand front pair, but all four tires have to match? It seems to me that the fronts still wear our quicker than the rears so the diameter of the front wheels is generall going to be smaller than the rears (until you rotate tires) so the tranny must be able to deal with constant slip (or whatever it does) to compensate for different sized tires.
So what gives? Or is this nice man just telling me a story because this is the first awd I've ever bought?
And for future reference, and suggestions for tires? I like really really sticky. I've been happy with my dunlop sp 8000's which this guy said were so bad they should be recalled, and I was happy with my yokohama atz something or others which he also thought sucked badly.
I couldn't humor this man at all.
Any thoughts?
thanks.
From my.subaru.com:
"On All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles, it is extremely important that the rolling or outer circumferences of the tires be within 1/4 inch of each other. This means that you must physically measure the size of the tire. This is best done with the weight of the vehicle off the tire and at the tread centerline. Also be certain that the tires are properly inflated since this can affect your readings.
If you need to replace just one tire, the same holds true. The measured difference in circumference between the replacement tire and the other tires on the vehicle cannot exceed 1/4 inch.
Depending on the vehicle mileage, it might be better to replace all four tires.
If the vehicle mileage is low and the tires have been rotated and driven at the proper inflation pressures, then you may be within the allowable 1/4-inch difference in circumference.
If the difference between the new/replacement tire and the current tires is within this 1/4-nch maximum, then the tire should be compatible. If it is not, then other tires will need to be replaced to conform to the 1/4-inch rule.
Exceeding this 1/4-inch difference in tire circumference can place unnecessary wear on drivetrain components, possibly causing them to wear out prematurely."
-Dennis
~c
Don
Only ill-effects would be the rattles and buzzes I keep tracking down but I don't know if it would have been the same with 16".
Don
Cobb stage 1 is the best bang for the buck. Stage 2 gets more involved with actual hardware changes. Problem is that you can only get the advertised power with extra noise. I am trying to find a quiet exhaust but they all seem to be loud.
I have a feeling you are worried about what the reflash will do to the car. I think stage 1 is safe. I actually get 1mpg better with the reflash.
Don
I know that in general, engine/internal mods generally reduce the longevity of the car, and that is what I want to avoid. The reflash, if it does not do this, and the tranny can handle it, I might consider as a power upgrade when I get the itch.
Thanks again!