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Comments
-Dennis
-juice
Although I think WarpDrive's $700-900 number is Canadian. So that's like what, $5.52 US?
-Colin
It *is* a nice sounding muffler IMO but the price!!!
I guess it matches up nicely to the $3000 BBS 17" wheel option.
I tried the BMW site under accessories, but no exhausts. An alloy rim is $366 - each.
Try e-mailing parts@libertysubaru.com, their prices are slightly lower than that site's.
-juice
-mike
-mike
http://www.iace.com/azp
-mike
It makes wooshing noises... ;-)
-Colin
They think the BOV is the turbo.
-mike
P.S. I just saw my first Baja at Valley Motors in Hunt Valley MD. Dark Red, it looked really nice.
-Colin
as for brands if you buy from any nationally known retailer it probably makes no practical difference.just don't buy from no name places.
the main reason for probably getting synthetics in any car is to increase the change interval, though most synthetic manufacturers except amsoil, redline do not actually advocate extended change intervals.
I have decided to use Mobil 1 in my WRX mainly due to the turbo engine getting hotter than regular engines. some dino brands have a sufficiently low enough flash point that coking is a real concern in engines which get very hot.
but you'd be hard pressed to get truely objective data to show that any car run on synthetics and driven in an unabused way is any better off with synthetics than dino if well maintained. peace of mind if nothing else.
buy from a place that has high traffic and replenishes its supply often. Old gas is not good for your car. The differences among the different brands are insignificant. Use 91 octane as least per manual recommendations to get all those 227HP working for you.
Oil. All major brands will do the job. Go to synthetic for extra protection against harsh driving conditions. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30 for everyday driving which is a popular proven choice.
If you are learning to drive stick, the Forester has the hill holder feature, which would come in handy. A turbo is coming for 2004, if you can wait.
Octane measure gasoline's resistance to pre-ignition. With turbos, timing is already retarded since the compressions ratio is effectively much higher than a N/A engine. Using lower octane gas means knocking will be likely, and the knock sensor will just retard the timing further until it stops, sacrificing power.
You buy a WRX for power, so use the gas that does the job you bought it for, IMO.
Otherwise just buy an RS and save your cash.
-juice
-Dennis
a. Have a friend teach you.
b. Have the dealers teach you.
When I went car shopping, I told the dealer I wanted a MT even though I have driven an AT since I started driving. Dealers are very cooperative, especially if they think they will sell you a car. :-) Bring someone else along to ease the dealer's anxed.
I did have a friend show me how to drive a MT a year before though. That greatly helped me.
Hear that Bernie! Make those wusses reach over and shift for themselves! Throw a clutch back in while you're at it, too. TC
After learning to drive MT, I found that the only reason for an MT is if you street race or real race your car on a daily basis. For normal street driving I found the MT to be more of a PITA that it was worth for normal and even spirited driving.
-mike
Seriously though, you're right in regards to an automatic being better in heavy traffic. I still prefer a manual tranny overall in a car like a WRX.
Stephen
Makes it that much more enjoyable to take the backroads to your destination on the weekends though
-mike
Main reason I like having a MT is that it is better for steep hills at higher speeds, especially with smaller engines. The Nissan I used to have would be constantly hunting between gears on part of my daily commute. I currently drive a 5 speed 4 cyl. and it will go up the grade in 4th at 70 (passing many civics, CRVs, and the occasional RAV4 or Tracker). The V6 Escape I test drove seemed to hunt a bit given similar conditions (but it did shift up and down very smoothly). I'll stick to the MT, if I can.
318 Dodge in '83 Ramcharger 2wd, AT
1.9 I4 in '91 Escort AT
455 in '74 Olds 98 AT
2.7 H6 in '88 XT6 AT
2.7 H6 in '91 XT6 MT
3.2 V6 in '97 Rodeo 4wd
3.5 V6 in '00 Trooper AWD
3.3 H6 in '92 SVX
-mike
Second - After sitting through my umpteenth partial viewing of "The Fast and the Furious" I wanted to inquire as to Vin Diesel's differentiation between "granny shifting" and "double clutching". Just what the heck is double clutching? I consider myself a very good stick driver - maybe I already do this. Also, is this different from "power" shifting, i.e. no clutch, just slamming from one gear to the next - primarily up, not down. For the record, I've done this sparingly from 4-5 as I'm not sure how detrimental it is to the drivetrain.
--Sean
Doubleclutching is only required on downshifts, I believe what happens is that you clutch-put the car in neutral-let the clutch out-gas-push in the clutch, move to the lower gear, let out clutch.
In F&F that was one of the fictional things, doubleclutching on the upshift...
-mike
Staring at my driver's license & feelin' old in Seattle,
Stephen
What you're really trying to accomplish with the throttle blip is to get the input shaft of the transmission more near the speed of the output shaft so that they mesh together more smoothly. Less wear, much smoother downshifts.
When the clutch pedal is depressed the input shaft of the transmission has a lot less force on it from the engine. It is still mechanically coupled, but with the clutch diaphragm compressed the clutch disc can move easily independently of the flywheel. This means when you "blip" the throttle with the clutch pedal down, the input shaft speeds up somewhat, but not nearly as quickly or as much as if the pedal is up.
When the clutch pedal is up, the flywheel and clutch are firmly in contact and the layshaft spins at exactly the speed of the engine.
Did that help? I can provide even more detail...
-Colin
-mike
They have notoriously weak 2nd gear synchros, so if you downshift from 3rd to 2nd without a double clutch and a throttle blip you WILL grind the gears. You can fix this by rebuilding the tranny with lightened gears, but most owners just deal with it. I thought I was a pretty good stick driver after 10 years of driving mostly manuals but learning to shift my Spider smoothly has made a world of difference. It's kinda fun, actually - and it sounds really cool.
-Jason (who blew his WRX wagon down payment on a sexy little Italian temptress)
colin's got it nailed with rev-matching and double clutching. Even without blipping the throttle in between your release clutch and engage clutch, double clutching can really take stress off of your synchros. Or if you happen to drive a car without synchros
Later...AH
Aside from raising major hell with your synchros, it's also a great way to over-rev your engine and float a valve or two.
While it is possible (and not really difficult) to a higher gear without using the clutch, the engine revs must be very low, and the shift action must be slow and deliberate.
The technique that you describe of jamming the gearshift lever into the next higher gear without using the clutch is a sure-fire method to get to know your mechanic really well.
-juice
Stephen
As explained (well) by the folks above, I've both double clutched and power shifted (some gas, but certainly not full throttle) depending on how "aggro" a mood I'm in. Thankfully, it's not all that often so my Rex drivetain is spared undue wear and tear.
I have had the unfortunate missed 1-2 shift though that causes my revs to sky rocket when expecting to engage 2nd gear - 'twas a notchy sum-gum at first. Freaked me out and scared the crap out of nearby cars and pedestrians. Thankfully, it stayed out of the red and my short throw is breaking (broken?) in so it's no longer an issue.
Thanks for the quality posts,
Sean
For day-to-day driving double clutching isn't a must -- that's what you have synchros for.
Ken
Heel-toe is beyond my abilities!
-Colin