93 ford probe died

gbeach1gbeach1 Member Posts: 2
edited April 2014 in Ford
my probe just cut off when i was going upa hill and now will crank but no fire. timing is ok. fuel cutout light stays on with key on.


  • tlimatlima Member Posts: 124
    Hey gbeach1, I used to be an owner of a '93 Ford Probe GT.

    Check the fuel cut-off switch. I believe it is located somewhere in the rear left hatch area. The owner's manual describes it's location and how to reset it as well. This switch shuts off the fuel system after a crash to prevent fire. Maybe something set it off.

    Also, this car had serious premature failure of ignition wires.

    Hope this helps.

    Good luck with a great car,

  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Have a friend, with a probe, he had the same problem after a pot hole swollowed his tire. The switch is on the left side, lift the carpet and right around where the floor ends, between the wheel well and the tail light, the switch is there, I think it is either red or yellow. Push it in and the fuel system is returned to running order. Hope that's all that's wrong.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    also you could have had the fuel pump quit. they like to stay submerged in gas for cooling ( the quarter-tank level or so is frequently measured ) but when they die, they die all over.

    you might have a control relay under the hood for the pump as well, check that first by substitution with another that has the same part number nearby.

    otherwise, several hundred dollars plus labor is a strong possibility.
  • sportynycsportynyc Member Posts: 1
    My 93 ford probe cut off on me while slowing down approaching a toll booth! I could crank the engine but it wouldn't fire. Turns out the ignition module died and had to be replaced at a hefty price. Ford charges almost $1000, but a rebuilt one cost about $300. Seems like it's a common problem.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    a California judge has ordered Ford to replace all the engine-area mounted ignition modules with hardened versions due to overheating failure. that only applies to that one state.

    some enterprising soul should be making wiring extention harnesses to allow relocating the module off the manifolds to, say, a fender or the firewall.

    GM mid-70s cars had an ignition timing module inside the distributor, bolted to the housing, and their service manual warned to be sure to use dielectric grease for its heatsink properties when replacing the module. of course, those modules were in the stores for under 20 bucks in the knockoff packages, and these aren't. but it never made sense to me that a heat-sensitive part should bolt onto the second-hottest item in the car (an even worse place would be right on or next to the cat.)

    no problem is ever new, it just gets a wash-up and change of clothes....
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