cdplank There's the problem: I can modify my driving style to accomodate the hesitation, but why? Eventually, there may be a situation where, ala gib (1639) your life will depend on a properly functioning automobile or someone else's good reflexes. So we lose confidence in the Highlander's abilities and become hesitant drivers with that nagging doubt in the back of our minds.
So how did you come out on the trade? I had been thinking of doing the same, but assumed the trade would be a financial sink hole.
I have been on the board several time regarding the poor brakes on my 2001 Highlander V6 4x4. Toyota had me go to 3 service departments at different dealers. All of the service departments found the brakes to be performing to manufactures specifications. I still being frustrated took the vehicle to a place that specializes on brake installations on high performance vehicles. After going with me in the Highlander for a 30 mile test drive the technician agreed that the brake system is not functioning properly. Made an appointment for them to work on Highlander. The vehicle was with them for 2 days when it was finished I got a bill for $80.00 and was told that the front lest brake line was yielding and that they corrected this. Took the Highlander out and it is like a different vehicle. My question is why couldn't Toyota take the time and discover and correct this problem. Contacted the last Toyota dealer to work on the Highlander, Central City Toyota, Phila., PA and the service department could care less about the information I gave them. I will not purchase another Toyota product.
Re "poor brakes on my 2001 Highlander V6 4x4" and "front lest brake line was yielding" and "like a different vehicle." - could you elaborate on each? My 2001 has "poor brakes" meaning the pedal is soft and goes too far to the floor, as though it needs a good bleeding. Toyota can't fix it. I assume you mean the left flexible brake hose where it attaches to the wheel caliper? Do you now have a firm pedal - what are the symtoms which have been corrected? There are a lot of us unhappy with the brakes, and if you've found a way to improve them we'd all appreciate the details. And who was this shop? Might be worth a drive from VA to PA! Thanks, Jonas
You can likely help matters dramatically by installing a manual shutoff valve in the HOT water flow line to the heat exchanger inside the HVAC system.
At max cool none of the system air flows through this exchanger but it is still being heated to engine operating temperature, ~190F, but the radiant heat therefrom can be substantial when what you need is a cooler surround.
Man, there is soooo much negativity on this board lately. Anyone perusing the messages would think that all HLs are lemons. Not so of course. This is either my eighth or ninth Toyota from Supra to Celica, to Camry to the FX which was only sold in Calif. They were great cars. So far my HL is the best of the lot for what it is designed to do. Hope I never change my mind. :-)
desertguy: Negativity yes, but it is the problems and solutions board. I do have to say that my HL is a great vehicle and it's all relative. We could be driving Yugos. I would just like to see some proactivity from Toyota rather than non-reactivity.
" I would just like to see some proactivity from Toyota rather than non-reactivity." I'm with you 110% on that statement but reading their latest statement on the engine sludge problem, I have my doubts!
I had the same problem. Your dealership is wrong and you should smack them. The problem is that the manufacturer forgot to engage the auto feature before shipping the vehicle. Toyoto told me how to fix it on my own through an email.
I believe you just push TILT (to open) and don't let go until the thing opens and closes all the way through the cycle. After that, it's auto baby.
I've been scanning the Toyota boards because I'm considering trading in my 2000 Outback due to various annoying problems with the car. One past issue was a hesitation problem that the dealer told me was normal and said it was caused by oxygenated gasoline. Fuji finally fixed the problem by modifying the software in the onboard computer. The sw mods did need to be approved by the EPA.
After reading about the problems with the Highlander I think I'll wait awhile. We also own a Camry and while it is a fantastic car it has been extremely frustrating when interacting with either Toyota or Toyota dealers. Its easy to see why Toyota dealers score rather poorly in the J D Power surveys. But when you can sell all (or more) then you can build why worry about unhappy customers.
re shut off valve in hot water line - has anyone done that? I did it on a 78 trans am. It solved the problem.
would like to see a pix of where it would go in the HL.
On the trans am (NO factory water shut off valve) the water line was on the fender well _I used a brass hardware store valve. Dealer including factory rep had worked on my car 3 tmes - said it was to specs - friend at a parts store said his moms car had to have a valve put in by him. My valve solved it!!
We have a 2001 Highlander 4WD that has had a "dink ink" noise -- can't tell where it's from -- since the day it was new. Sounds like two glass bottles banging together. Anyone else?
We have a 2001 Highlander w/ manual climate control. At 38k miles, heat stopped. Fan and A/C OK. Dealer said climate control module $599 had to be replaced. Has anyone tried to repair the defective part instead of replacing entire module?
A vapor lock in the water lines to/from the heat exchanger wouldn't be all that unusual if someone has messed around with the engine coolant system.
If your system was of the automatic climate control type then the price might be justified. If not a vapor lock my guess would be a simple inexpensive servomotor that moves the airflow mixing vanes.
Started getting a similar sound about three months ago on my 2001 HL 4WD. It appears to come from the rear of the vehicle. Haven't done much exploration as to the cause.
Toyota bleed my brakes several times without much improvement. My problem was with the left flexible brake hose where it attaches to the wheel caliper. I do not pretend to understand completely, but this hose was not passing the brake fluid correctly to the cylinder. My brakes are not as soft as previously and the pedal does not got to the floor, you can feel the resistance. I believe that the vehicle stops much better. I think that there is definitely an improvement with the brakes. I am still planning to sell the Highlander and will not consider another one. I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor XLS and prefer it to the Highlander. Only had to visit Mitsubishi service department once with a minor door gasket problem was treated very well. Have had no other problems. Endeavor came off of a lease with 6,000 and I now have 10,500.
I was told from the day I bought my 2001 Highlander by my mechanic about Toyota's problems with engine sludge. I use full synthetic motor oil and have had absolutely no problem with engine sludge. My problems have been with the Highlander brakes and I hope that this has been corrected, and not by Toyota. Toyota should be ashamed of their company for not adequately correcting /addressing problems with their vehicles. Toyota gets customer complaints and does nothing. Or perhaps customers should be ashamed for buying Toyota vehicles and not getting satisfaction from them.
I am planning to get a SUV and still deciding btw. Highlander and 4Runner. I looked into this board and it seems some owners are having problems with the transmission. Can someone please give me some advices or point out some problems on the Highlander? Thanks!
I am on my second Highlander! It's been a great, comfortable, highly reliable car--and it has very good mileage for an SUV. I did not experience the sludge problem associated with the first generation of cars, but Toyota did extend the engine warranty for all of those cars. That told me once again that they do, in fact, stand behind their vehicles. This latest acceleration issue may turn out to be a problem (though I've seen no evidence of it in my car yet), but long years with Toyota tell me they will do the right thing. Look at the Edmunds forums for other cars, from Hondas to Volvos and you'll find every car has random problems arise. It's the eventual solution you want to look for.
I guess my best advice is to pick the right dealer, both for the best deal and for future service. I saved thousands (yes, thousands) on the first car by driving an hour to a dealer highly recommended by friends and co-workers. The shop is professional and responsive.
If the size, weight, and price of the 4runner doesn't offend you then there can be NO doubt that it is the better vehicle of the two. Not only is the 4Runner a base RWD vehicle it is also quite definitely rear torque biased in AWD mode.
Handling on adverse roadbed conditions will be much more beniegn, predictable, and controllable.
I'd recommend not buying the v6, 5 spd auto highlander. Toyota has an acceleration problem that is dangerous, there is no reason for you to pay $25,000 to $35,000 to buy one of these problems. check NHTSA website or posts here for more information.
Toyota is in denial they have a problem, and therefore it may never be fixed. Based on their nonresponse on this problem and years of denial on oil sludge any problems with Toyotas will be paid for by the owners.
Look at the Honda Pilot, or maybe the new Nissan 2005 Pathfinder.
But the real issue may be the VSC interacting to prevent impending wheelspin and therefore the potential for loss of control on FWD vehicles.
Seemingly the majority of these delayed acceleration reports have involved only FWD, or front torque biased AWD vehicles, and many of the reports concern delayed acceleration upon accelerating into a turn.
It is my understanding and belief that FWD torque stear is at its worse when turning, the tighter and/or more agressive (high engine output torque) the turn is the more likely the result will be loss of control of the vehicle.
Just a guess at this point, clearly the jury is still out on this one.
I have read the owners manual and cannot find anyway to reset the Avg MPG calculation. Is it reset only when the car is new or the battery is disconnected?
I too love my '01 Highlander and am 100% satisfied with my it. Generally I think its a great vehicle; for me the problems have been minor (glove box rattle (known problem that dealer fixed), side wind noise problem (known problem probably fixed on more recent HLs that dealer fixed by upgrading front door weatherstripping), mushy brake pedal feel (I quickly got used to it) and acceleration/hesitation problem (I only experienced it a couple of times and quickly adapted to it)).
These problems are common on the HL, and other problems people on these boards have experienced include warping brake rotors, steering wheel vibration, vibration while idling, windshield contraction noise in cold weather, sunroof creaking noise, wheel bearing noise, and other wind noise problems.
Its difficult to ascertain from posts on these boards how prevalent these problems are. These issues are serious for some and I think this forum is an excellent venue to discuss common problems with others and perhaps even effect changes on the part of the auto manufacturer (I too would like to see the hesitation problem addressed!). After reviewing these posts you'll have to judge for yourself during your test drive if the HL is the right car for you.
Back in '01 when I bought my HL I also looked at the 4Runner (as well as a few other vehicles). The main difference between the two is the 4Runner is a truck-based SUV (its heavier, more like a truck, and can be used for true off-roading) while the Highlander is a car-based SUV (its lighter, more like a car, and can only be used for very light off-roading). Not to contradict wwest, but my cousin who has a farm in Canada says he likes the HL more than the 4Runner (something like "is better and costs less"). Most on these boards say the AWD HL handles great in snow. Also try posting your question on the Toyota 4Runner vs Toyota Highlander discussion -- its common to both the Highlander and 4Runner discussion groups, so you should get a good cross-section of opinions there.
A RWD vehicle, or AWD vehicle with rear torque bias, will always handle better and more predictably in adverse conditions, on road or off.
Using the front tire's roadbed contact patch primarily for directional control, lateral forces/stress, and the rear primarily for driving or decel, compression braking, will always result in a more beneign handling vehicle in adverse conditions than will a FWD or front biased AWD.
Especially one that can use chains only on the rear or on all four and is not prone to the hazards of chain use ONLY on the front.
That's not to say that some folks will not find the AWD, or even the FWD HL (RX, etc,) up to the task at hand for them.
There must have been a change in the later models, because I can reset the avg mpg on my 02 Limited any time I want by holding down the info button while the ave mpg is being displayed until it changes to zero. Also it does not reset itself when the gas tank is filled to the best of my knowledge. If the newer models work like described above,I like the logic of the older models better.Whenever I take a long trip I reset my ave mpg to zero and then I can track the ave for that trip only regardless of how many times I filled the tank or how long a trip I take. That logic makes sense to me.
As a follow-up to my earlier post regarding my last 'under warranty' visit, I took my HL in this past weekend. Here are the results:
1. Mud Flaps. Advisor says there's no replacement protocol from Toyota. He later said they will replace 1 of them under warranty from their dealership. The other had no visible 'tear'. Had to order the part though.
2. Squeaky Steering Wheel. Advisor says tech could not duplicate the problem. (typical) Said to try again when I come in for the ordered parts.
3. A/C Temp. Said tech tested system at 38 degrees F. which is supposedly normal. (I drove the car yesterday in about 78 degree weather w/A/C at maximum cold. Felt like the system wasn't even on! Tried recirc...no change) Problem seems intermittent....so this one isn't over yet.
4. Rear Wiper Chatter. Advisor blames it on tree sap. No new parts.
5. Child Safety Locks. Completed
6. Ceiling trim. Ordered parts.
7. "Grommet" around exterior rear hatch bezel. Ordered parts.
If anyone shares in any of the above issues, please comment. All-in-all, very disappointed with Toyota...especially one that is assembled in Japan.
Gary 2001 Toyota Highlander V6 2wd (non-Ltd.) 27000 Miles
38-40 degrees F out of the AC is normal, there is a sensor on the cooling coil that cuts out the compressor below this temperature or else ice will form on the coil and loss of AC. If you don't trust the tech, put your own thermometer on one of the outlets after the AC has been running for a while and see what it reads. Any household thermometer should be within several degrees of the actual(liquid filled ones are better).
Can you describe the squeaky steering wheel? Does it only happen when you turn it or is it a rattle over bumps? I've had #1, #5, and #7 done on my car. #7 was done 2 times! Within 4 months! My steering wheel also had a rattle and I got the whole steering column shaft replaced and now it's fine. My car still had a lot of side wind noise and a rattle coming from the driver's side door at idle, but the dealer says everything was OK in there.
If you simply set the A/C to max cold the blower will automatically go to HIGH speed. In that circumstance the 78F outside atmosphere doesn't spend enough time in the refrigerator, evaporator, to be chilled. Well, maybe a little bit.
Like taking a warm bottle of milk and putting it in a 40F refrigerator and removing it 5 minutes later expecting it to be chilled.
The evaporator vanes themselves may very well be at 35F but if the airflow isn't slow enough.....
But you can improve the efficiency of the A/C dramatically by eliminating the radiant heaing of the A/C plenum area. Install a manual shutoff valve in the heater's hot water line.
fan speed has a lot to do with it and if recirc is on with hi speed fan you will never get near 40 degrees ecven on recirc/ my 94 camry puts out under 40 degree air, Highlander is not as good maybe 44 degrees (2 nd speed fan, 40 mph, recirc, 95 degrees outside).
the auto system in my infiniti is not as good as either.
I can not even find the hot water line on the HL -where is it???
Our 01 HL will be needing some shoes soon,,any recomondations?? The" Bridgestone Dueller" tires that came with it are showing the wear bars at 38000 miles. I'm looking for a quiet all season tire.
Have a 2001 Highlander V6 4X4 and just got a 2004 Infiniti FX35 AWD off of a lease with only 3,500 miles for $34,000.
This vehicle has everything including the touring and technology packages. I haven't been able to figure everything out yet. The navigation system in incredible. The sound system is remarkable. It even has DVD. Most important the brakes work and it has four years / 60,000 bumper to bumper with a loaner vehicle for any work over 1 day. Time will truly tell, but I think I love this vehicle. If there is a piece of technology this vehicle has it. I think Toyota and Lexus need to play serious catch up. I feel that I was very fortunate to find this vehicle. Drove from Philadelphia to New Hampshire this past weekend, a round trip of 800 miles and the performance and gas mileage were teriffic. So long Toyota.
We did well on the trade. I had the car for about 6000 miles and the dealer gave us all but $1500 of the HL purchase price. Our local dealer is very good.
The 2004 Highlander will not reset as you indicate. The only way to reset is to put gas in the tank. I don't know why Toyota made this change for 04, but they did.
The squeak occurs while making a u-turn. i.e. when the wheel is turned in 1 direction very rapidly from lock to lock. Seems like just a little lube should have taken care of it. I do not have a 'rattle' in the column as you did. Will find out more at next visit.
To those who replied to my A/C troubles, thanks! FYI, my unit is a manual system. A 'non-limited' standard feature.
When I first turn on the system, (max cold, fan on any position, fresh or recirc) the temp feels very cold. After driving about 15 minutes or so, the system feels almost like it shuts off. Little or no cooling. This lasts for about 5-7 minutes or so, then it gets cool again. This happens for pretty much the duration of the drive. I'll bring this up at my next visit as it is really frustrating. I despise the "Cannot duplicate the problem" excuse from Toyota service!!
Can you explain the 'manual shutoof valve' fix? Is this an easy fix and will it cause any negative effects to the HVAC system?
go buy a dial thermometer at a hdw store for $6. if the air flow stops it may be freezing up (possible low charge) also check the sight gage for bubbles
mine is a manual sytem too - they are the nest I think
Had my 2004 HL V6 4x4 5speed trans for 150 miles now. Noticed the unusual shifting behavior of the trans after about 50 mi. It hesitates from stopped position and downshifts abruptly. This caused concerns from a "right hand turn after stop" situation. This is absolutely a safety issue in my opinion. The other issues related to noise, moonroof, no autolock buttons are annoying and by now should have been designed out of cars in this price range. However, in my mind, the hesitating trans is a serious problem. The brakes are definately sensitive, but have not caused me any real problems (at least not yet). I will also start the notification process to dealer, manufacturer, NHTSA, and whoever else will listen. My kids will be driving this car. It was equipped with the side and curtain airbags, and along with the other safety features made this car a good bet - or so I thought. Now to find this problem is unbelievable. We need a fix!
I too just bought a new HL v6 4x4 and can't say I've had any problems at all, it's done 70 miles now and I've never had any transmission issues of which I am aware, I love it so far.
I only have 350 miles on mine (V6 4WD), but I haven't noticed any hesitation. The transmission is slightly less smooth shifting from first to second than it is between the other gears, but that's all I'm aware of.
Thanks, typesix, for answering regarding radio & dash lights. We will address the antenna ground and see if there is a fix there.
Help!! I need more response to my AM radio reception question.(Post #1629)Today we were listening to the AM radio, stopped for lunch, return trip home we had no AM radio reception. None. The car has been taken to dealer but radio was working that day. Are we the only ones with no AM reception?
My Lexus has dashlights on all of the time. It's tough to get used to dim dash board but I'll live through it. Hope we don't experience some of the other things that seem rampant.
I listen frequently to AM during baseball season. We're about 30 miles from Boston, so there is disruption of the reception under highway overpasses, on bridges, near high voltage lines, etc. But in general the signal is okay to listen to, both daytime and nighttime. Stations within 15-20 miles of course come in stronger. No noticeable difference in AM reception between 2004 Highlander (base radio), 2003 Matrix (fancy radio), 1994 Corolla (base radio). I also recently tried out the AM radio when test-driving a Subaru Outback and Volvo V40 and got similar results. If you're not able to get stations from this distance, it's definitely something you should pursue with the dealer. If you sometimes get reception and other times not, it sounds like there is a loose connection to the antenna. Or possibly something is faulty with the AM part of your radio.
bikeman3, I have the 04 v6 4wd with Toyo Tran Path tires. These tires developed loud roar on smooth pavement. Tires were cupping badly for low miles. Had the allignment (toe-in) checked, and of course, it was adjusted, dealer said all four wheels were out of spec (car had 8000 miles. Drove it another 4000, without any real improvement in noise or wear. Took it back, asked the technician to take the toe in to zero degrees, which he ultimately agreed to do. I think it helped, but too soon to tell. I personally think there is too much toe-in involving all four wheels, resulting in high tire wear, cupping, and noise.
The hesitation complaint now totals 3 of 14. I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but if you search the previous posts for "hesitation", you will find you are stuck with toyota's poor design unless the government forces them to take action.
They will stonewall you at the dealer by saying they all do it, contact toyota. toyota will then blow you off.
If there's any consolation, you didn't give toyota an extra 15 grand to buy a Lexus RX330 with the same hazard. Incidentally, they made 10.24 Billion dollars profit last year, (more than ford gm and chrysler combined)How much of that comes from not standing behind their product when they screw up (see post 1647 on a press release on how they ducked their oil sludge problem for years.)
Comments
Please file a complaint at NHTSA, maybe they'll go to work on it for us.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
There's the problem: I can modify my driving style to accomodate the hesitation, but why? Eventually, there may be a situation where, ala gib (1639) your life will depend on a properly functioning automobile or someone else's good reflexes. So we lose confidence in the Highlander's abilities and become hesitant drivers with that nagging doubt in the back of our minds.
So how did you come out on the trade? I had been thinking of doing the same, but assumed the trade would be a financial sink hole.
I assume you mean the left flexible brake hose where it attaches to the wheel caliper?
Do you now have a firm pedal - what are the symtoms which have been corrected?
There are a lot of us unhappy with the brakes, and if you've found a way to improve them we'd all appreciate the details.
And who was this shop? Might be worth a drive from VA to PA!
Thanks,
Jonas
At max cool none of the system air flows through this exchanger but it is still being heated to engine operating temperature, ~190F, but the radiant heat therefrom can be substantial when what you need is a cooler surround.
Negativity yes, but it is the problems and solutions board. I do have to say that my HL is a great vehicle and it's all relative. We could be driving Yugos. I would just like to see some proactivity from Toyota rather than non-reactivity.
I had the same problem. Your dealership is wrong and you should smack them. The problem is that the manufacturer forgot to engage the auto feature before shipping the vehicle. Toyoto told me how to fix it on my own through an email.
I believe you just push TILT (to open) and don't let go until the thing opens and closes all the way through the cycle. After that, it's auto baby.
After reading about the problems with the Highlander I think I'll wait awhile. We also own a Camry and while it is a fantastic car it has been extremely frustrating when interacting with either Toyota or Toyota dealers. Its easy to see why Toyota dealers score rather poorly in the J D Power surveys. But when you can sell all (or more) then you can build why worry about unhappy customers.
I did it on a 78 trans am. It solved the problem.
would like to see a pix of where it would go in the HL.
On the trans am (NO factory water shut off valve) the water line was on the fender well _I used a brass hardware store valve. Dealer including factory rep had worked on my car 3 tmes - said it was to specs - friend at a parts store said his moms car had to have a valve put in by him. My valve solved it!!
A vapor lock in the water lines to/from the heat exchanger wouldn't be all that unusual if someone has messed around with the engine coolant system.
If your system was of the automatic climate control type then the price might be justified. If not a vapor lock my guess would be a simple inexpensive servomotor that moves the airflow mixing vanes.
I guess my best advice is to pick the right dealer, both for the best deal and for future service. I saved thousands (yes, thousands) on the first car by driving an hour to a dealer highly recommended by friends and co-workers. The shop is professional and responsive.
Handling on adverse roadbed conditions will be much more beniegn, predictable, and controllable.
Toyota is in denial they have a problem, and therefore it may never be fixed. Based on their nonresponse on this problem and years of denial on oil sludge any problems with Toyotas will be paid for by the owners.
Look at the Honda Pilot, or maybe the new Nissan 2005 Pathfinder.
Seemingly the majority of these delayed acceleration reports have involved only FWD, or front torque biased AWD vehicles, and many of the reports concern delayed acceleration upon accelerating into a turn.
It is my understanding and belief that FWD torque stear is at its worse when turning, the tighter and/or more agressive (high engine output torque) the turn is the more likely the result will be loss of control of the vehicle.
Just a guess at this point, clearly the jury is still out on this one.
These problems are common on the HL, and other problems people on these boards have experienced include warping brake rotors, steering wheel vibration, vibration while idling, windshield contraction noise in cold weather, sunroof creaking noise, wheel bearing noise, and other wind noise problems.
Its difficult to ascertain from posts on these boards how prevalent these problems are. These issues are serious for some and I think this forum is an excellent venue to discuss common problems with others and perhaps even effect changes on the part of the auto manufacturer (I too would like to see the hesitation problem addressed!). After reviewing these posts you'll have to judge for yourself during your test drive if the HL is the right car for you.
Back in '01 when I bought my HL I also looked at the 4Runner (as well as a few other vehicles). The main difference between the two is the 4Runner is a truck-based SUV (its heavier, more like a truck, and can be used for true off-roading) while the Highlander is a car-based SUV (its lighter, more like a car, and can only be used for very light off-roading). Not to contradict wwest, but my cousin who has a farm in Canada says he likes the HL more than the 4Runner (something like "is better and costs less"). Most on these boards say the AWD HL handles great in snow. Also try posting your question on the Toyota 4Runner vs Toyota Highlander discussion -- its common to both the Highlander and 4Runner discussion groups, so you should get a good cross-section of opinions there.
Using the front tire's roadbed contact patch primarily for directional control, lateral forces/stress, and the rear primarily for driving or decel, compression braking, will always result in a more beneign handling vehicle in adverse conditions than will a FWD or front biased AWD.
Especially one that can use chains only on the rear or on all four and is not prone to the hazards of chain use ONLY on the front.
That's not to say that some folks will not find the AWD, or even the FWD HL (RX, etc,) up to the task at hand for them.
But NEVER for me!
As a follow-up to my earlier post regarding my last 'under warranty' visit, I took my HL in this past weekend. Here are the results:
1. Mud Flaps. Advisor says there's no replacement protocol from Toyota. He later said they will replace 1 of them under warranty from their dealership. The other had no visible 'tear'. Had to order the part though.
2. Squeaky Steering Wheel. Advisor says tech could not duplicate the problem. (typical) Said to try again when I come in for the ordered parts.
3. A/C Temp. Said tech tested system at 38 degrees F. which is supposedly normal. (I drove the car yesterday in about 78 degree weather w/A/C at maximum cold. Felt like the system wasn't even on! Tried recirc...no change) Problem seems intermittent....so this one isn't over yet.
4. Rear Wiper Chatter. Advisor blames it on tree sap. No new parts.
5. Child Safety Locks. Completed
6. Ceiling trim. Ordered parts.
7. "Grommet" around exterior rear hatch bezel. Ordered parts.
If anyone shares in any of the above issues, please comment. All-in-all, very disappointed with Toyota...especially one that is assembled in Japan.
Gary
2001 Toyota Highlander V6 2wd (non-Ltd.)
27000 Miles
I've had #1, #5, and #7 done on my car. #7 was done 2 times! Within 4 months! My steering wheel also had a rattle and I got the whole steering column shaft replaced and now it's fine.
My car still had a lot of side wind noise and a rattle coming from the driver's side door at idle, but the dealer says everything was OK in there.
Like taking a warm bottle of milk and putting it in a 40F refrigerator and removing it 5 minutes later expecting it to be chilled.
The evaporator vanes themselves may very well be at 35F but if the airflow isn't slow enough.....
But you can improve the efficiency of the A/C dramatically by eliminating the radiant heaing of the A/C plenum area. Install a manual shutoff valve in the heater's hot water line.
and if recirc is on
with hi speed fan you will never get near 40 degrees ecven on recirc/
my 94 camry puts out under 40 degree air, Highlander is not as good maybe 44 degrees (2 nd speed fan, 40 mph, recirc, 95 degrees outside).
the auto system in my infiniti is not as good as either.
I can not even find the hot water line on the HL -where is it???
recomondations?? The" Bridgestone Dueller" tires that came with it are showing the wear bars at 38000 miles. I'm looking for a quiet all season tire.
This vehicle has everything including the touring and technology packages. I haven't been able to figure everything out yet. The navigation system in incredible. The sound system is remarkable. It even has DVD. Most important the brakes work and it has four years / 60,000 bumper to bumper with a loaner vehicle for any work over 1 day. Time will truly tell, but I think I love this vehicle. If there is a piece of technology this vehicle has it. I think Toyota and Lexus need to play serious catch up. I feel that I was very fortunate to find this vehicle. Drove from Philadelphia to New Hampshire this past weekend, a round trip of 800 miles and the performance and gas mileage were teriffic. So long Toyota.
When I first turn on the system, (max cold, fan on any position, fresh or recirc) the temp feels very cold. After driving about 15 minutes or so, the system feels almost like it shuts off. Little or no cooling. This lasts for about 5-7 minutes or so, then it gets cool again. This happens for pretty much the duration of the drive. I'll bring this up at my next visit as it is really frustrating. I despise the "Cannot duplicate the problem" excuse from Toyota service!!
Can you explain the 'manual shutoof valve' fix? Is this an easy fix and will it cause any negative effects to the HVAC system?
Thanks.
if the air flow stops it may be freezing up (possible low charge) also check the sight gage for bubbles
mine is a manual sytem too - they are the nest I think
Help!! I need more response to my AM radio reception question.(Post #1629)Today we were listening to the AM radio, stopped for lunch, return trip home we had no AM radio reception. None. The car has been taken to dealer but radio was working that day. Are we the only ones with no AM reception?
My Lexus has dashlights on all of the time. It's tough to get used to dim dash board but I'll live through it. Hope we don't experience some of the other things that seem rampant.
The hesitation complaint now totals 3 of 14. I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but if you search the previous posts for "hesitation", you will find you are stuck with toyota's poor design unless the government forces them to take action.
They will stonewall you at the dealer by saying they all do it, contact toyota. toyota will then blow you off.
If there's any consolation, you didn't give toyota an extra 15 grand to buy a Lexus RX330 with the same hazard. Incidentally, they made 10.24 Billion dollars profit last year, (more than ford gm and chrysler combined)How much of that comes from not standing behind their product when they screw up (see post 1647 on a press release on how they ducked their oil sludge problem for years.)