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Welcome to the Forum. Yours is a good question, but it's not new. I'd suggest you do what I did - go to the box marked "Search This Discussion" and type in "mileage". Then hit the Search button, and you'll find what you seek.
You can do this for any vehicle on the Edmunds Forums, [non-permissible content removed] well as for any search on any topic (or even all topics!). It's a great tool, and highly under-used.
The HL....NONE OF THE ABOVE!
Okay for dry or wet roadbeds or freshly fallen non-packed snowfall and that's about it.
But then so is ANY 2WD, front or rear, equipped with VSC & Trac.
The post specifically mentioned "using it on forest trails and some mud puddles and rutted dirt roads". That's my idea too - to get to some fire-road-only locations for hiking, camping, and fishing. Plenty adventurous for me.
thanks
Jeff
Toyota Supports ASE Certification Page 1 of 1
NV012-01
Title:
WIND NOISE AT "A" PILLAR
Models:
’01 Highlander
Technical Service
BULLETIN
November 30, 2001
Improvements have been made to the front door weatherstrip in order to minimize wind
noise on the 2001 model year Highlander.
�� 2001 model year Highlander vehicles.
MODEL STARTING VIN
Highlander (6 Cylinder) 4WD–MCU25L JTEHF21A610032677
Highlander (6 Cylinder) 2WD–MCU20L JTEGF21AX10023377
Highlander (4 Cylinder) 4WD–ACU25L JTEHD21A910009089
Highlander (4 Cylinder) 4WD–ACU20L JTEGD21A210016672
PREVIOUS PART NUMBER CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME QTY
67861–48020 67861–48021 Front Door Weatherstrip, RH 1
67862–48020 67862–48021 Front Door Weatherstrip, LH 1
Remove the front door weatherstrip and install new part if applicable VIN.
OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OPN T1 T2
671351 R & R Front Door Weatherstrip 0.2
6786# 48020 91 99
Combo A Opposite Side 0.1
6786#–Applicable Warranty*:
This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in
effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s
in-service date.
* Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint.
NVH
Any solutions for these problems?
1- Radio reception
Radio picks up stations like the antenna is disconnected
I see the complaints here, no solutions. I'd taken it in for repair/check on this issue before the roadtrip -- no improvement.
2- no storage
No center console, no place to put change, cup holders waaaay down by the floor (useless).
3- NOISE
Same old 'helicopter' painful noise when rear window is down, as listed here.
But, also the fast/wind vibrating/metal sound ...like exhaust manifold or fan-hitting-cowling sound by left/driver side. I assume its that TSB:nv012-01 thing?
--jjjudge
Annoying wasn't it?
From my vague memory from a few years ago:
1. Remove the two beige or gray plastic panels near the floor that mate with the shifter surround cover on either side by removing the black plastic fasteners.
2. Remove the hammered metal or woodgrain plastic bezel adorning the shifter by grasping from the inside and firmly pulling up/away from the shifter.
3. Remove three screws from the shifter surround cover and remove the cover to access the back of the ashtray.
(Note that the mark of an experienced lay mechanic is to leave no dings or scratches on the plastic with the screwdriver.)
in our drive seat, there are 2 pocket on the right hand side and we just don't know what it is for. Map maybe?
NOISE, I think most SUV has this rear window noise problem if you have the window down.
My '03 has the same. I've tried a "signal booster" on the antenna lead into the radio along with an "enhanced" reception antenna.......guess what? Neither helped. The dealer just throws up his hands and atributes the problem to poor design, (off the record, of course). So, sorry to say that we'll have to rely on CD's.
The noise issue is typical and is easily remedied by "cracking" the other rear window or a front window...or the sunroof if you have one, to eliminate the pressure.
I thank God that these seem to be the worst problems with this vehicle. Other than these, my 4cy.4wd suits me beautifully and I do enjoy driving it.
Good Luck.
I got my 2002 Highlander in June. The day I picked it up, I noticed that the antenna mast was loose - well, a little wobble, anyway. When I got home, I removed it completely, and cleaned the threads as best I could with a brass wire brush. I replaced it and tightened it with a open-end wrench (7mm, I think).
Now, I only had the vehicle for 45 minutes, and really have no basis for comparison of "before and after". But now the radio seems to work fine - at least as well as the one in my '99 CR-V did. I do know that the corrosion on the threads can't help. If they're dirty or corroded, it would interfere with the transfer of the very low-level signals.
Take care not to use a steel wire brush - use brass or nylon. The connecting parts are plated with something (going from memory here).
Just my 2 cents.
I have the wire antenna -- FWD, '04, 4-cylinder -- and FM reception is good 30 miles from Boston. AM is okay but with typical interference from high voltage wires and bridges and underpasses, etc.
I'm driving Waltham to Bedford -- so 128 to route 3.
I get nearly NOTHING from the radio except white noise.
a little NPR and 107.9 near weston/waltham ... a little 89.7/90.9 when I drove to Brockton the other day. Watertown Toyota says the radio is fine :-|
-- jjudge
I work in Bedford and live in Chelmsford and drive Rt 3 daily.
My reception for FM is quite good.
AM is good for 6.80 and pretty good for 8.50 (weaker as you go away from Boston when I get into Chelmsford, and near power lines, etc).
Assuming the 01 and 02 are the same radio, I would push back on the dealer if your reception is that bad. Mine is pretty good until I get quite a ways from Boston (NH, ME).
Eddie
very good fm reception - tested by driving out of town on interstate
have not tried am
At 40,000 miles my HL has a carbon build up on the engine that triggers knock noise upon aggresive acceleration when using lower grade gas. The toyota tech tried cleaning the engine with chemicals delivered through the engine vacum.He reports a huge smoke cloud following the cleaning, states" it must have burned allot of that carbon and chemical because the smoke was really dark following the procedure."
Two weeks later my engine control light goes on, I get a diagnostic code of#P1135
which is the bank 1 oxygen sensor. The dealer slaps me with a $370 bill for the sensor, diagnosis and labor. Is it possible that the cleaning would have damaged the sensor? Could I make them responsible for the sensor?
Not an unusual mileage for oxygen sensor failure.
for hitch wires as it is part of hitch package. some post have used part Number
08942-28870-BB Not in parts list but in computer but no information. does any one
have one or found a source of supply?? Harness need a white square male 4 pin
plug about 7/16 inch. on one end. The 08921-48850 is 1/8 inch larger and fits
2001-2003. Any one need help I have shop manuals and other info
desc:
04 HL TOY WIRE HARN
Thanks,
Mark
...Door panels, seats, head liner, dashboard, rear storage compartment are all dry but carpet and floor are SOAKED!!! This is my fourth Toyota, but I've never had a problem like this with any car. Has anyone else experienced unexplained interior compartment leaking with their Highlander?
When I first drive my 2002 V6 and I go over the first few bumps, I hear some kind of moderate noise from the rear. It sounds like the sound you would get if you had a bad shock.
After going over a few bumps more, this goes away (like a few hundred feet). If I stop and let it sit a while it happens again. It sounds like it's the right rear but I can't tell for sure. I'll have to ride in back and ask my wife to drive.
The dealer says that this is normal and has something to do with the brakes setting.
There have been a few threads here where people have been complaining of noises going over bumps on the highway but I have never heard this.
If I put one foot on the brake and the other on the gas, it seems to be less but it still seems to be there.
Has anyone noticed this?
It is quite noticeable and happens every time.
It has gotten worse and now I'm getting 'sproinging sounds' occassionally and sounds like there is something loose in the rear door.
I have done the recall for the filler tube and had the rear axle seal replaced so they may have not tightened something up right.
Also, my passenger seat is also pretty noisy when you go over bumps.
I have seen this description it the TSBs. Is this common and has anyone had this fixed. "TECHNICAL INFORMATION ON DIAGNOSING FRONT SEAT BACK NOISE".
Service Bulletin Num : NV00802
NHTSA Item Number: 634027
Date of Bulletin: JUN 28, 2002
Also, the road noise is more that I expected, especially when it is windy. I have moved the roof rack all the way back and this helps some.
There were postings on specific fixes for the 2001.
However, I also found this TSB.
FRONT DOOR OPENING WEATHERSTRIP
Service Bulletin Num : BO01603
NHTSA Item Number: 10003451
Date of Bulletin: JUL 16, 2003
Have people had this fixed on 2002 and later models.
Thanks
Sam
I have about 51,000 miles on the vehicle. Does anyone else have this problem? it seems like a manufacturing problem on Highlander. Can anyone offer some advice.
A couple of thoughts come to mind. If the car has a sunroof, there are drain tubes front and rear of sunroof that empty down the A pillar and down rear (either C or D pillar - I've seen them but can't remember where they are routed). If these are disconnected, that may be causing an issue.
The reference to a sloshing sound suggests water may be pooling either in the bottom of doors or the rail beneath the door. If it is in the door, you should be able to replicate the sound by swinging the door open . There are several drain holes along the bottom of the door. These are a fair size but could become blocked, particularly if the vehicle has been used in dusty conditions, or has had aftermarket sound deadening or anti-rust sprayed into the door. This can also occur where the vehicle has been very hot and the waxy deadening material used on some vehicles melts and blocks the drains. You can usually check the drains by inserting a thin, plastic coated loop of wire ( a loop of single strand of telephone wire works well) and wiggling around.
If any drain is blocked, you can usually reopen it by applying a fine stream of water. I fabricated a metre and a half length of 4mm drip irrigation hose onto a garden hose fitting, packing it out with silicon sealer. This, connected to the mains water and inserted through a drain hole usually clears most debris. I used it regularly to clear the fender drains right in front of the doors of my Subaru Outback.
Cheers
Graham
Currently I own a Nissan Maxima and have a Thule rack mounted on it. I have a 65lb 17' boat. I can tell you that it is not an easy thing to get the boat on to my 56.5" car. I have to lift one end and prop in onto the trunk of the car. I put a blanket on the car to avoid scratches. Then I work my way down the boat so I can get some leverage to pick up the back of the boat and then slide it onto the roof rack and into the J hooks. No small feet to do by oneself.
So the question is - at ~69" what am I looking at in terms of getting a kayak on top of a HL. This seems like it would be almost impossible for one person. There's no trunk to get you half way there so the leverage technique seems out of the question.
Anyone with experience that they could share?
Thanks,
Jeff