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Comments
new calibration ID #34876000
which spells out the problems with the HL 04/05 tranny.
I have 04 HL with the crummiest shifting tranny since birth.
Before I bring my HL to Toyota would like to hear of any sucessful upgrades.
Obviously Toyota has finally admitted to a poor shifting tranny.
I have same issue with my 05 highlander, it has 5000 miles on it.
No resolution so far
good luck
The insurance appraiser told us later that he suspects it was an electrical fire, but his job description did not include investigating why it happened. So we called Toyota Canada. They have yet to return our call.
Meanwhile, we bought another 2005 Highlander. Call us optimists, more like blind loyalists. Everyone in our family drives Toyota. Both our cars are Toyotas.
Anybody heard of a Toyota Highlander going up in flames? The insurance appraiser told us that he has seen many trucks burn, mostly Fords. This is the first time he has seen a Toyota burn. Anybody heard of Highlanders going up in flames while parked?
There were a few reports a couple of years ago of fires in one or two Siennas but after investigation, the cause was determined to be unrelated to mechanical or electrical deficiencies.
Be cautious in relying on comments by an insurance company official. Insurance adjusters aren't qualified nor mandated to assess causes of fires. Their job is only to determine extent of damage and subsequent action by their company.
Normally in an unusual situation like this one, the fire dept. attending must investigate and determine cause. I'm surprised that you didn't get any feedback from them. In our country (Canada) this would be almost automatic in cases like that.
The fire could have resulted from any number of factors. Spontanious combustion in an on board garbage bag is one. Debris packed around the catalytic converter in the exhaust system is another. Smokers cause many fires when they throw cigarette butts out windows. Debris in the engine compartment is another common cause. Yet another, previous damage to the vehicle may have resulted in an electrical anomaly. Even a ham handed oil change person could have inadvertently dislodged an electrical wire when doing the oil change--it happens.
Don't limit your choices to only one possibility. There are many besides the more common ones I mentioned..
The fact that you were camping at some point when this incident occurred is an indication of where the cause may lie. I would start looking at that.
Did replacing the "Idle Valve Assembly" and gasket correct your low idle/stall problem???
I am having the same problem and the dealer doesn't have a clue.
Thanks!
Mark
neff01 @ netzero.net
Can I echo Bill's comments above on the probable cause of fire. I am an Insurance Adjuster (happilly not motor vehicles) and am often intrigued by the divergence between initial conception of cause when one first sees a fire and the ultimate cause after investigation.
Before coming to a conclusion, you need to think about the usage before the incident, any modifications made to the vehicle and any odd behaviour before the incident. The fact that the fire started when the vehicle was not in use, but had presumably been used a short time before, tends to point to a non-electrical cause.
There are various heat shields around exhaust components. If, at any stage, the vehicle has been used off bitumen, these can accumuate debris, or can pick up stray bits of cardboad or plastiic. It's very instructive to look under a vehicle after driving through a hay field and see just how much litter accumulates under there.
It might seem weird but some mud actually has enough flammable material in it, that once dried, can catch alight. this is a particualr problem in open pit coal mines where coal dust mud cakes onto the exhaust, dries and then ignites.
In order to analyse it a little more, think about the point where the fire originated. Oddly, this will often have a clear burn mark around it, with less soot apparent in the immediate vicinity
If underbody, the prospects of it being electrical are remote. If in the engine bay, you need also to think of possible fuel fire.
If under the hood (bonnet for me) was the vehicle fitted wit appropriate transmission and oil cooling consistent wih the load that was towed.
If electrical, think about what modifications had been made and what appliances were in use. For example, was there an accessory fridge runnning in the car or camper and if so, had it been properly wired in with appropriate fuses.
I haven't heard of another Highlander fire. I can tell you about a few BMW's that have gone that way though, including one on my commute home last week. I wouldn't be put off buying another one.
Cheers
Graham
they checked "throttle body" , for carbon deposit or something.
They cant find anything, according to them it's a minor issue.
My theory is after break in , piston moves further, which makes engine
vibrate more, and these vibration are transmitted to steering wheel, break pedal.
And if you are stopped for longer duration , sometimes because of resonance
you feel it more.
But there were absolutely no vibration in the new highlander which I compared
against in the dealer.
I have a V6 and is smooth as silk when idling; I think the vibration is a distinct problem only affecting a few HLs...
Thanks in advance
Jim
I wonder if some of the problems with the 6s might be an extreme version of the same thing -- a good driver is cruising along, easy on the gas, easy on the machinery -- but then suddenly needs to merge and completely changes the driving mode. Some German cars have a switch the driver can use to tell the transmission how to shift -- economy mode, sport mode, race mode -- instead of leaving it for the car to decide.
It would be interesting if some of the drivers of cars with severe hesitation would experiment to see if they can get rid of the problem (temporarily) by driving aggressively just before trying to force a quick downshift. I have noticed that some posts have mentioned mothers or wives having this problem and it is well-known that women are often more sensible behind the wheel than men. Too bad if it comes back to bite them in their Highlander.
Instead of a software fix, maybe an enterprising Toyota dealer can figure out how to install a "quick-shift" switch. Guess I am old-fashioned enough to trust hardware more than software.
For optimum fuel efficiency, the transmission should stay in the highest gear that will satisfy the need for acceleration. So, when a person has been driving conservatively, moving the accelerator pedal slowly, the "intelligent" transmission assumes the "downshift only when absolutely necessary" mode to save gas. The only way the transmission can know the rules have changed and that it should now downshift early, in order to merge safely, is when the driver sends a signal through the gas pedal. I believe the hesitation is the time it takes the transmission to change modes from economy to early downshift.
If you think about it, you definitely don't want your transmission to downshift at fairly high rpm when you only want to accelerate gently. I am guessing the transmission reads both the throttle position and the speed at which it is being depressed (along with engine and vehicle speed) to figure out what the driver wants. It could be that some Highlanders have bad software, that doesn't interpret the information right, and it could be that it is possible to signal for an early downshift in some way. I am still experimenting with my 4-cylinder, but as I mentioned earlier, it is only a very slight problem with that model and I am doing it more out of curiousity than need. One thing I have learned is that flooring the throttle quickly will force a quick downshift. I don't know if the same thing is true with the 6-cylinder.
I am considering getting a V6 Highlander but these hesiation comments have me concerned. I have owned 6 different cars ( 3 toyotas) with automatic Transmissions and none of them have shifted "perfectly" in every situation. They all shifted smoothly during normal acceleration, but most of them would occasionally hesitate, or shift abruptly, if pressed in an unusual circumstance. Some were better than others, but it sounds like the problems here are more than that? I have test driven both the 4 and 6 cyl models and did not notice anything unusual. I pushed them pertty hard and the shifting seemed within normal limits. So is this a problem that takes awhile to develop, or that only affects a portion of the transmissions produced? Is buying a highlander a gamble that I will get one with a bad transmission? Were the transmissions produced by different plants? It just seems like quite a few people have BIG problems while others don't report any. And I have not read any reviews that mention the problem so I am very confused.
Any info would be most appreciated, don't want to buy myself a headache
Just my $.02
Ken
Did the car perform a bit differently than other vehicles I've owned? Yes - not poorly, just a bit differently. Many F150 owners complained about the same kind of thing when Ford redesigned the F150 in 2004 and went to the throttle-by-wire system. It supposedly improves effeciency and is something more and more manufacturers will be going to.
I would say buy with confidence. Do some people have problems with their cars? Yes. You just can't get much better for reliability than Toyota though. I drove domestic cars my whole life and look what I am driving now. I may never go domestic again.
Try to submit it to every conceivable driving condition you can think of (as close to your *average* driving requirements as possible), and assess it accordingly.
If it meets or comes close to your requirements, then consider buying it.
If it doesn't, try someone else's make and model.
At the end of the day, try to make the best deal you can for the make and model of your choice.
A Toyota Highlander is a good place to start.
They are as good as any.
Do not be overly alarmed by what you read in this forum or the hesitation forum.
Remember--only those who have an issue (or think they have) are the ones who make the loudest noises.
If you peruse these topics in entirety, you will find there aren't that many who complain about the hesitation issue.
There really aren't.
The vast silent majority are the ones to really listen to--only problem is they don't make much noise!
Obviously, they have no need to.
I can only add this comment - I test drove a number of other 2005 makes (Murano, Mazda6 to name two) and found the same issue with them. Reading other forums on different makes also leads me to believe the issue is wide-spread. Most any new vehicle today will have the electronic throttle or drive by wire, thus most any new vehicle will have the issue. I would rather have a Toyota than some of the others. Get used to it, folks. :>)
The best description, all three, of when the occurances are most likely to occur are well stated in the 2003 TSB for the Camry/ES330.
Personally, if I were in your shoes and set on getting the Highlander, I would wait and see how all of this pans out. I would at least wait until I could be assured that there is a remedy for the problem in case I was one of the unlucky ones to get a lemon.
After this amount of time it is totally unbelievable that Toyota doesn't know EXACTLY what the problem is and has a perfectly acceptable fix somewhere awaiting "approval"
It appears distinctly possible that a perfectly correct fix would have an adverse affect on emissions and/or fuel economy, giving EPA and CARB some say-so in whether or not the fix can be made publically available.
I bought my HL in 01 and so far it has met the toyota standard and quality.
But just recently when I turn on the engine, it runs for 1-2 seconds then shuts off.
To avoid engine shut off I have to step on the gas pedal and rev the engine.
Did anybody has experienced this? Do I have to change anything? like spark plugs, timing belts, battery, etc.?
So far, with 7000 miles on the Highlander (2005 V4 FWD), I think my Corrola is a better built vehicle but no major complaints with the Highlander either. Toyota service, well that's another story and yes I did notice they overfilled the oil a little.
Thanks again for the reply,
Ken
Yes, replacing the idle valve assy did correct the problem. I was surprised it cost so much to replace that small valve - almost $500!
I also have an '01 HL V6 that had the same problem. If you look back on postings #2853 - #2858 and #2866, you will find the discussion. It was correctly diagnosed by wwest as a faulty idle valve. I had the dealer replace it and now it works fine. It sounds to me like it's a common problem with this engine, since the service writer was almost certain he knew what it was even before I finished telling him about the problem. Of course, it is not covered under the 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty, but if you have an extended warranty, it may be covered.
1. We don't like them (my wife said only this morning, "I HATE those things")
2. They consume more fuel. Millions of cars * ~100 watts is how many gallons of fuel wasted each year?
3. We didn't want them and were told by the dealer they could be disconnected. They lied.
I have asked some drivers why they do that and they reply because I can still see to drive.
Head lights serve two very important functions, One is to see where your going and the other is for you to be seen by other drivers.
personally I want people to see my vehicle day and night..........
NOT!
Two 55W twelve volt bulbs in series plus a voltage dropping resister mounted under the battery plate, probably about 20W total.
If you want to save some gas disconnect your ~3 HP A/C during the winter months to keep it from running year 'round. Better yet turn it off anytime the OAT is below 65F.