I too have a 2005 Highlander and just recently replaced all four brake pads at 84,000 miles. I found that since they lasted me this long I was more then convinced to stay with Toyota parts. Besides, my total cost for having it done at the dealership was $200 less than what Les Swabb wanted to do the job.
For some reason -- probably because they are smaller -- the rear pads seem to wear out more quickly than the fronts on Highlanders. Since I do the work on my cars myself, I just do the rears when needed and then wait until a front sensor tells me it is time for the fronts. Notice I wrote "a" sensor. Obviously one of the four sensors in the rear will probably sound the alarm first, but all of the rear pads should be changed at the same time. For a normal person who values their time and convenience, it certainly isn't much more expensive to change all the pads -- front and rear -- at the same time.
Toyota does a lot of testing and their pads are well proven. There may be better pads out there, but how can you be sure they will be as good or better than original equipment. If you buy a lousy set, it is really a pain. I have a neighbor who has had really bad luck buying cut-rate rotors for his US made cars and since watching him have to keep taking new rotors back I am going to stick with original equipment whenever possible.
People who race their cars or know a lot of people who have already experimented with different brands of brake parts may very well be able to do better than original equipment . . . but a lot of people also lie because they have the "whatever I do is best" syndrome.
I own a 2002 Toyota Highlander. My right rear tail light keeps going out. I have changed the bulb and it will work for a couple of depressions on the brake pedal, then stop working. Sometimes, if I turn the headlights on; it works all of the time, other times there is nothing I can do to get it to work. I have check all of my fuses to insure that they are all functional.
The wires all look good and in tact.
Does anyone know if that "blue" relay looking box under the spare tire housing ever goes bad? Does it have a name? AND what are your thoughts on replacing with a used one from a junk yard vs buying new?
What do you think is fair to change pads and to resurface the rotors? Are these realistic prices?
Here are the following quotes I received.
$600 - Toyota dealer ----------------------- $350 - reputable shop close to my home who will use Toyota pads and resurface rotors ----------------------- Here is what another shop close to my house tells me.
Estimate to perform a complete brake system inspection. Replace brake pads. Resurface brake rotors (if within specs) and service brake calipers:
$281.00 Fronts $267.00 Rears Additional $17.00 (per axle)to upgrade to a premium ceramic brake pad that’s guaranteed not to make noise Ceramic pads wear longer, improve stopping distances and lower the amount of brake dust on the wheels. I doubt if your rotors after that many miles will look good enough to ignore, in order to give you a quality “professional” brake job, they will most probably need to at least be resurfaced and depending on wear may even need to be replaced.
--------------------------
Firestone They seem like a pain to deal with, but they told me if they use their brake pads it would be $340 for all 4.
First of all, I assume you really don't need your rotors replaced or resurface, whatever a dealer or independent mechanic says. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that they lie a lot. of course, ceramic pads may not wear in like standard pads.
I paid $110 for a complete set of original equipment Toyota pads -- front and rear -- and a dollar for a packet of brake grease. It will take me two or three hours to clean everything and replace the pads. It is important to know where to use the brake grease to keep everything moving smoothly and to keep the brakes from squealing.
Assuming at least a hundred dollars an hour for a mechanic and a reasonable markup for parts, I guess $500 for the whole job is reasonable. A good mechanic, with professional equipment, will do the job a lot faster than I can.
I would, unless planning on a long, long trip -- thousands of miles -- or just want to get it over with so you can forget the whole thing. I like bargains, which is why I wait to hear a sensor and then do as much as I can myself. It would be a lot easier if dealers and mechanics were completely honest.
Recently took my car for servicing because my front and second row floorboards were very wet(2008 highlander) Customer service rep said leaves from the hood clogged the system. Running the ac system now I can see water draining under the car. Does anyone know how many places water should be exiting ? I only see it from one place
1 Drains from the air inlets in front of the windscreen are the ones that collect leaves. When the drains become blocked, water on this area flows into the air box and then into the car, wetting the floor as you have experienced.
These normally have drains on either side which you can check by aiming a hose at the windscreen and watching where the water flows out below the car.
Routinely, you should clear the cabin air intakes of leaves when you have the bonnet (hood to you) lifted and also check that they are draining correctly. Remember to do this regularly in Autumn (Fall to you)
If drains become blocked, look under the car, find the drain hoses which drop down (easier to identify if you have run water through them in the past. a fine hose, such as a 1/4" drip system hose can be fed up through the drain pipe. I have fabricated a join to a normal hose pipe to inject a fine jet of water to clear any dirt or leaves clogged in the pipe - Klugers/Highlanders are less problematic in this area than most cars)
2 Air Conditioner drain has a single outlet about centrally located near firewall. Run the air conditioner on a humid day and then park on dry concrete., Look under the care and you will see where the water drains down from a short hose protruding downward. You rarely need to clear this as it only drains the condenser coil of moisture from the car interior.
I am getting ready to go in for an oil change. I usually look in the maintenance manual and only ask them to check anything that is specific to that time frame excluding what they always do without being asked..(If you ask, they charge you to do it as in "I want a 120,000 mile check up) I actually have over 130,000 miles on my 2004 V6 Highlander Limited. It is 4 wheel drive and I do some light towing: trailer with kayaks) The 120 check has several different things that I didn't do then. One was the replacing of limited slip differential oil. In one of your answers, I see where you said that it is in a closed system so I'll eliminate that. Below is the online schedule I referenced from the Toyota site that someone else mentioned in this forum (I love this forum!) Replace engine oil and oil filter 1 Rotate tires Replace limited-slip differential oil, if equipped (4WD) Replace spark plugs 2 Re-torque drive shaft bolt Replace engine air filter Replace cabin air filter (if equipped) Inspect the following: Automatic transmission fluid Ball joints and dust covers Brake lines and hoses Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 3 Drive belts Drive shaft boots Engine coolant Engine valve clearance Exhaust pipes and mountings Front differential oil Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses Fuel tank cap gasket Radiator, condenser and/or intercooler Rear differential oil (except 2WD) Steering gear box Steering linkage and boots Transfer case oil (4WD)
Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions:
Driving While Towing Replace front differential oil Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip (except 2WD) Replace transfer case oil (4WD) Replace transmission fluid or oil Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis Driving in Desert or On Dirt Roads Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis
Applicable Footnotes: 1) Reset the oil replacement reminder (“MAINT REQD”) light after replacing engine oil, if vehicle is equipped with this light.
2) Required under the terms of the Emission Control Warranty.
3) Inspect thickness measurement and disc runout
Can you give me info. on replacing the spark plugs; as far as I can tell, the car is running okay. (the footnote says this is required due to emissions standards) And also on re-torquing drive shaft bolt. There are several things listed under the inspect part that is not usual: example drive shaft boots.
So my overall question is when I go in for the oil change, what would you ask for additionally to be done or inspected?
I was just quoted $650 to have all my fluids replaced except the engine oil and radiator fluid in my 2003 Highlander. They said labor would be four hours!. I'm no mechanic, but four hours needed for differential, brakes, transmission, power steering fluid replacement? Remember no radiator or engine fluids. Seems high to me. What do you think?
A couple of years ago, my transmission was acting up so I checked with them on changing the fluid. I remember it being expensive; maybe over $200. They also wouldn't do it on a Sat which meant a day off work so I went by and picked up the supplies from them; again well over $100 and took them to my little local garage. Local garage told me he didn't have equipment to "blow" the system out as Toyota said had to be done. So I told him to drain it and replace fluid. He did and I've had no problems since. Was able to return half of the fluid to Toyota for a refund. Toyota actually takes an equal amount of the fluid and flushes it thru the system before they refill it. I understand why running a bit thru the system might be a good idea but several quarts just sounds exhorbitant and certainly not environmentally friendly.
EXACTLY what is / has happened to our Highlander--except the replacement of the PCV valve. I believe you, I would just like an explanation why that would be. I have recently found out I might be a victim of the "sludge/oil gelling" issue and this is the FIRST time I heard what YOU are suggesting. Most of our miles have been "local" and this issue came to light when my family was almost stranded 1600 miles after a full oil/filter change. Just completed a 1200 mile trip (from 60-73mph) through parts of Illinois and Missouri and consumed 6 quarts of oil. All is recorded with various Toyota dealers, but that was not good enough for our local dealer. He wants us to come back in 500 miles and check. This would be a "God-send" if this is really the cure for our 2002 with, now, 90000. I keep hearing more and more about the "gelling" issue, but the front valve cover was pulled and showed no obvious sludge. I was ready to invest in all synthetic oil and start changing at every 3/3 though Toyota maintains 7,500 is the standard. If this proves out, I will owe you the best dinner I can provide ! ! ! By the way, why did you suspect the PCV!? Why doesn't my "plugged-in" dealer know about this???????????????????????? If this problem has existed for a while wouldn't seals, or SOMETHING be damaged? Thanks again!
I just ordered a K & N filter element for my 4 cylinder Highlander and wonder if anyone has any comments. The local dealer raised his price on stock filters to the point where a K & N seems like a bargain and many people claim they also perform better.
During the last service the dealer service adviser also mentioned that it appeared that my water pump had been leaking and it was probably a good idea to replace it. On the 4 cylinder it is a much easier job than on the 6, but I don't see any point in getting it done until it is leaking a significant amount or getting noisy. Again . . . any ideas?
Be careful about having them mess around with your water pump. It could just be your condenser. Check your radiator if you are losing water. That is the sure way of making sure if your water pump is leaking. Just remember not to uncap your radiator while it is hot. I got a 2nd degree burn on my arm 16 yrs ago because of my stupidity. By the way, I've had my share of nightmare with the toyota dealership. They seem to be all passive aggressive. GOOD LUCK.
Most water pumps have a built in "weep" hole/opening so that any coolant that does get through the seal protecting the shaft bearing does not remain inside and "fail" the bearing.
Over time this leakage will leave a trail of coolant chemicals and the (S)dealers will often point out this trail as evidence of a failing water pump.
So I would not rely on the dealer for an opinion but I would begin watching the coolant level for time to time or watch out for pools of coolant under the water pump area of the engine.
If you mean the oil firm type of K&N then STAY AWAY, worse than snake oil as over time it might, will often, result in damage to the MAF/IAT sensors.
My OEM battery is starting to get tired after nearly 3 years in this Texas Heat. I was considering an Autozone Duralast Gold battery to replace it. Anyone have anything positive/negative about those batteries, or any other battery?
It's almost a crap shoot, but, Consumer Reports has some good information. IIRC, the Durlast batteries are pretty dang good. Especially at their price point.
However, I'm a bit surprised you battery is giving up the ghost after only 3 years. I had my OEM batter in my '03 for six years and after only one cell died I decided not to push it any farther and got another OEM.
However, as with most things, YMMV, which it obviously does.
The last I heard, most car batteries in the US are supplied either by Johnson Controls or one other company (Exide, iirc).
I've had good luck with batteries from Walmart in Boise heat (but only ~3 months of heat a year). Who knows who makes those - I've heard that both companies source for Walmart depending on the part of the country you are in. AutoZone is probably similar.
I have used the Autozone batteries for about 3 years now in a few vehicles. Replaced the OEM in 05 Highlander after 3 years. The red battery has more than enough cranking power. My wife does lots of short trips so far so good!
Gee, my '03 battery lasted nearly 7 years!! And it gets pretty hot in Fort Worth too! I live close to a Sears, and after triple A left, I drove straight there and had one of their "big bopper" batteries installed! Of course it must be considered that I still have less than 50,000 miles on this car!!
i rotated tires and light went on. pressure is good all around. i looked in book and it shows me a switch to operate to turn off the light. i have no such switch or reset.
year 2004, highlander, anyone know how to get the tire pressure light off?
Thx to all for the battery info.....will probably go with Autozone Duralast. Sounds like except for the Optima brand, the rest of the maintenance free types are cut from the same cloth...
My 2007 highlander has blown the 10Amp IGN fuse in the dash location, and dies, because it powers the fuel pump's Cut Off Relay. The fuse powers the Cut Off Relay, a dash Maintenance indicator, and goes to the ECM. I'm willing to try replacing the Cut Off Relay, but I can't find out where it is. Anyone know?
There's a button to push way low on the dash board, you may have to get down on your knees to see it. Put the key in the ignition, turn it to the on position, wait for all the dashboard lights and buzzes to go off, then push and hold the button for about 5-10 seconds until the warning light flashes 3 times meaning it's been reset. Also, see msg 2310.
One way is to sue your full size spare tire in the tire rotation. the spare does NOT have a sensor so the system will deactivate (at least mine was deactivated)....good luck
I smell another Toyota recall. Just found out that my 2005 Toyota Highlander needs to have the drive shaft replaced, after only 80,000 miles on the road— estimated cost to repair is $1200.
My mechanic called a Toyota dealer for the part and the parts guy said, and I quote,"These Toyota Highlander drive shafts are FLYING OFF THE SHELVES!"
I've been doing some research and have found that people are saying that there are "poorly engineered drive shafts" in some of the trucks.
Toyota is only admitting to the Tacoma drive shaft issues.
I have 3mm in the front. 2mm in the back. How many miles can I get out the pads that is left? My dealer has a $400 specia. Side shop is $300 with Toyota parts.
If you are mechanically inclined, I would do it myself. You can get a good quality ceramic set of brake pads for 40-60 bucks. It isn't really that hard if you have the tools. Just remember to think "Safety First". I wouldn't go under a car without jack stands and laying down a wheel underneath for second support. There are pretty good videos on youtube you can watch how to do it. It usually takes me 10 mins to replace each pad. I don't mind doing a total of an hour work that saves me a lot of money. Good luck.
I'd like to report on the effect a K&N engine air filter has had on my '05 4 cylinder Highlander. I'm not dismissing one poster's comments on the possible effect of the K&N oil on the MAF sensor, but I did check with some K&N users and only one (who thought he had over-oiled his filter) has had the MAF sensor cleaned. If I do have trouble with my MAF sensor, I will report on it.
I had no great expectation of noticeable improvements in power and/or fuel economy so I was surprised to feel my Highlander is more responsive and lighter feeling with the K&N. The biggest change is in how much more smoothly it shifts now. Four cylinder Toyotas like mine have always drawn fewer complains about shifting than 6 cylinder models, and I have been pretty satisfied with mine. But there is one circumstance -- when pulling out on the road in front of my house and then giving it the gas, calling for a downshift, when the transmission seemed to take a long time making up its mind. Not only that, but worse, it almost seemed like the engine lost power before the shift, making the whole process slow, jerky and annoying.
Honestly, I can still feel a delay when my Highlander shifts down under those same circumstances, but the delay is shorter and, best of all, there is no feeling of slowing down before the shift. Under normal driving conditions the shifts are much smoother -- almost completely unnoticeable -- and my car feels more responsive. It is no sports car -- my other car is a Miata (which I also just fitted with a K&N) -- but it does feel lighter. Okay, seat-of-the-pants impressions are not always right, but I am sure of the improvement in shifting.
My feeling is that Toyota mapped the ignition timing (and possibly cut-off) and fuel injector settings while the engine and tranny were on a dynamometer with a less restrictive than stock air supply. The restriction of the stock air box and filter just throws the timing and fuel setting slightly off kilter. If I remember right, even a brand new OEM paper filter doesn't perform as well as the K&N.
I am not a K&M salesman and don't want anybody to buy one on just my say-so. If you feel that your shifting could be improved you might think of talking to car enthusiasts who are likely to experiment with things like K&M filters. If they are as satisfied as those I talked too (and I am), you can make up your own mind. I have no idea what effect a K&N filter has on a 6 cylinder Highlander.
I have a Highlander Ltd. 2008 (certified pre-owned). Recently I had some troubles with the moonroof. I hardly ever use it, but the last time I did the moonroof went bizzerk. When you pushed the slide open button, it popped up and vice versa. I took it to the dealer. The car had little over 50,000 miles. First I was told that it was covered, then that it wasn't because of the mileage. They told me it would cost about $300 to repair, only to call me two hours later that the price just went up to $700 because of a more serious problem - something about cables. I argued about the little use and that this should not happen on a car that's only 3 years old. Long story short, the dealership agreed to cover the cost just this time. Now I am wondering if they messed up the moonroof, because the last time that I was stuck in a major rain storm I saw water droplets forming around the rubber edge of the moonroof. This is the first time I have noticed it in the two years that I own this car. The next service I mentioned this issue to the dealer and was told that they checked the problem and it's perfectly normal to have a "few" droplets to come threw and that the car has a "drip tray" to collect the water. This is the first time I heard such an absurd thing. Is there such a thing or are they just pulling my leg? Anybody having the same problem? Thanks. :confuse:
I bought a 2003 HL new in late 2002. After following this forum since then, I've seen posts of problems enough with the moonroof.
We didn't particularly want a moonroof, it was just in the car we bought. We may have opened it a half-dozen times or less in the last 8 years and haven't opened it in the last 5 years because of the "cable problems" I've seen posted here. I intend on keeping this car past 300,000 miles (only 105K now) and don't want to have the moonroof sealed with ductape (prior post on this forum). The HL moonroof seems to be one of the weakpoints of the vehicle.
The cool air will only come on when the temperature control is at 65 degrees. As soon as I dial in 66 degrees the air switches to hot air. I just replaced the broken ribbon wires on the temp control switch. Any thoughts on what is causing this?
Let me secretly swap out your K&N for an OEM filter and my bet is you wouldn't know/detect the difference. The only difference the K&N might/could possibly have is at WOT since otherwise the throttle plate itsself is the major intake restriction.
Please see posts 4858 and 4874 for background on previous very high oil consumption at highway speeds and subsequent PCV valve replacement, as well as others on this forum.
I took a 1200 mile trip recently, ~1000 at 74-79mph, and oil consumption was just barely noticable on the diptstick.
Yahoo!
Cheap, easy fix. Don't let a shop overcharge you or tear your engine apart - $6 part and 15 minutes. Maybe it was a $5 part, can't remember. And, by the way, the old PCV valve rattled like it should, and appeared to pass the suck/blow test. Go figure.
I have K&Ns in and on everything I drive and ride, 'cept my 51 Ford Pickup.
My recent reading calls into question their long term filtering ability, but that's somewhat affected by proper oiling, which seems more art than science. OEM filters have gotten better over time, with reduced restriction that is what the K&N's primary claim is. There are BMW tests which show no performance improvement with a K&N, and an Australian Lexus Coupe group (Soarer in Australia) test which shows the Toyota filter works just fine. I still have the K&Ns! (but no BMW, thanks)
My butt dyno felt a difference in the Highlander when I installed the K&N.
I disagree with the idea that reduced restriction in front of the throttle plate has no effect at less than WOT. Any reduction in restriction in the intake makes it easier for the engine to breath, making it more efficient at any RPM or throttle opening.
Smoother shifts is an interesting result, but if it works for you, great. Just be judicious with the oil when you clean the filter, and you have a lifetime filter with better shifting to boot. Fyi, I use PJ1 filter oil in an aerosol can from the motorcycle shop.
I've only used K&Ns on motorcycles. I had two Kawasaki 900s and used them on both. The only benefit I got from them was it was easier to put on my drag racing tricks on the carburetors (all 4 of them).
Otherwise they were a PITA. When it rained, the water would get to the filters quite easily and start clogging up the breathing which of course made the bike run like crapola.
I swore off of them after selling my last bike and have never looked back. I don't think they worth the hassle and god knows how much is just the right amout of oil?? it's a crap shoot. No way to be 100% certain of the correct amount.
Take an 8' diameter water pipe (OEM filter) down to a 1" diameter water pipe (throttle plate) and measure the flow downstream of the 1".
Now use a 10" diameter inlet pipe (K&N) and measure the flow.
And check just how small, 70-80% restriction, the throttle plate opening is, and how low the intake airflow actually is, during simple cruise, 99% of the time.
K&N, NO positive effect, except(??) higher noise level, and more cashflow at K&N.
At first glance, the analogy of an 8" diameter water pipe to a stock air filter seems like it might be useful. It is true that blocking part of a big pipe would not measurably affect air flow. But an air filter is not an open pipe. There is always a drop in air pressure through an air filter -- that is what drives the air through the filter. The reduction in air pressure on the downhill side of the filter means the throttle has to be opened wider to get the same horsepower. It is very much the same as driving at a higher altitude, which most people admit reduces power and/or fuel economy.
The real question is: "how much pressure drop is significant?" Atmospheric pressure at sea level is about 14.7 psi. Two percent of that is 0.294 psi -- not very much. But 2% is huge to car makers -- they do cartwheels over small increases in power and/or fuel economy. If you spend $2,000 a year on gas, 2% of that is $40, about the price of a K&N filter.
I am not saying that a K&N filter gives me a 2% improvement, but I seem to feel some improvement. Even my skeptical wife says the Highlander feels lighter and smoother (maybe smoother shifts). Looking at the economics -- assuming I don't have to have my air flow sensor cleaned -- even 1% means the K&N will pay for itself in 2 years.
Don't mean to sound like a K&N salesman. I wish Toyota would come up with a more efficient air filter and air box.
But if the throttle plate represents a 70-80% blockage 99% of the time then how advantageous is a K&N on that 20-30% "free-flow" that is left??
And I think your numbers are a bit skewed. The OEM/factory filter is typically more than 95% efficient, only lowering the downstream pressure by ~5% at WOT. So how could it possibly have a POSITIVE effect at normal throttle openings.
Go back to the water pipe analogy. Put a restriction of 1" in the mid-point of 12" water pipe with a inlet pressure of 30PSI and measure the downstream pressure. Serious reduction in downstream pressure, right?
Now add a 0.5" restriction downstream of the 1" restriction and measure the pressure between the two restrictions. What, BACK UP TO 30PSI...???!!!
How can that be...??
With today's cars it would be easy to measure, just record the output of the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor, at 65 MPH on a level section of roadbed, with and without the K&N installed. With an OEM filter and then with the K&N.
I'll readily wager that you'll not see even a 1% difference.
K&N filters are worth their weight in GOLD on the race track, but off...NOT even worth pocket change, not even a holely pocket.
"..there is always a drop in pressure through an air filter.."
Not true, just no base truth to that statement.
There is only a pressure drop if the filter is actually providing a restriction to airflow. Add a higher, tighter, restriction downstream and the interim space fills with atmospheric pressure faster that it can be "exhausted" through the "downstream", tighter, restriction. Neither the K&N, NOR the OEM/factory filter will cause ANY atmospheric air pressure drop as long as the downstream restriction results in filling the "interim" space faster then it can be depleted.
Comments
Toyota does a lot of testing and their pads are well proven. There may be better pads out there, but how can you be sure they will be as good or better than original equipment. If you buy a lousy set, it is really a pain. I have a neighbor who has had really bad luck buying cut-rate rotors for his US made cars and since watching him have to keep taking new rotors back I am going to stick with original equipment whenever possible.
People who race their cars or know a lot of people who have already experimented with different brands of brake parts may very well be able to do better than original equipment . . . but a lot of people also lie because they have the "whatever I do is best" syndrome.
The wires all look good and in tact.
Does anyone know if that "blue" relay looking box under the spare tire housing ever goes bad? Does it have a name? AND what are your thoughts on replacing with a used one from a junk yard vs buying new?
Thanks for the help!
GiddyUpGirl
Here are the following quotes I received.
$600 - Toyota dealer
-----------------------
$350 - reputable shop close to my home who will use Toyota pads and resurface rotors
-----------------------
Here is what another shop close to my house tells me.
Estimate to perform a complete brake system inspection. Replace brake pads. Resurface brake rotors (if within specs) and service brake calipers:
$281.00 Fronts
$267.00 Rears
Additional $17.00 (per axle)to upgrade to a premium ceramic brake pad that’s guaranteed not to make noise
Ceramic pads wear longer, improve stopping distances and lower the amount of brake dust on the wheels.
I doubt if your rotors after that many miles will look good enough to ignore, in order to give you a quality “professional” brake job, they will most probably need to at least be resurfaced and depending on wear may even need to be replaced.
--------------------------
Firestone
They seem like a pain to deal with, but they told me if they use their brake pads it would be $340 for all 4.
I paid $110 for a complete set of original equipment Toyota pads -- front and rear -- and a dollar for a packet of brake grease. It will take me two or three hours to clean everything and replace the pads. It is important to know where to use the brake grease to keep everything moving smoothly and to keep the brakes from squealing.
Assuming at least a hundred dollars an hour for a mechanic and a reasonable markup for parts, I guess $500 for the whole job is reasonable. A good mechanic, with professional equipment, will do the job a lot faster than I can.
Two separate issues
1 Drains from the air inlets in front of the windscreen are the ones that collect leaves. When the drains become blocked, water on this area flows into the air box and then into the car, wetting the floor as you have experienced.
These normally have drains on either side which you can check by aiming a hose at the windscreen and watching where the water flows out below the car.
Routinely, you should clear the cabin air intakes of leaves when you have the bonnet (hood to you) lifted and also check that they are draining correctly. Remember to do this regularly in Autumn (Fall to you)
If drains become blocked, look under the car, find the drain hoses which drop down (easier to identify if you have run water through them in the past. a fine hose, such as a 1/4" drip system hose can be fed up through the drain pipe. I have fabricated a join to a normal hose pipe to inject a fine jet of water to clear any dirt or leaves clogged in the pipe - Klugers/Highlanders are less problematic in this area than most cars)
2 Air Conditioner drain has a single outlet about centrally located near firewall. Run the air conditioner on a humid day and then park on dry concrete., Look under the care and you will see where the water drains down from a short hose protruding downward. You rarely need to clear this as it only drains the condenser coil of moisture from the car interior.
Cheers
Graham
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Rotate tires
Replace limited-slip differential oil, if equipped (4WD)
Replace spark plugs 2
Re-torque drive shaft bolt
Replace engine air filter
Replace cabin air filter (if equipped)
Inspect the following:
Automatic transmission fluid
Ball joints and dust covers
Brake lines and hoses
Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 3
Drive belts
Drive shaft boots
Engine coolant
Engine valve clearance
Exhaust pipes and mountings
Front differential oil
Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
Fuel tank cap gasket
Radiator, condenser and/or intercooler
Rear differential oil (except 2WD)
Steering gear box
Steering linkage and boots
Transfer case oil (4WD)
Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions:
Driving While Towing
Replace front differential oil
Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip (except 2WD)
Replace transfer case oil (4WD)
Replace transmission fluid or oil
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis
Driving in Desert or On Dirt Roads
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis
Applicable Footnotes:
1) Reset the oil replacement reminder (“MAINT REQD”) light after replacing engine oil, if vehicle is equipped with this light.
2) Required under the terms of the Emission Control Warranty.
3) Inspect thickness measurement and disc runout
Can you give me info. on replacing the spark plugs; as far as I can tell, the car is running okay. (the footnote says this is required due to emissions standards) And also on re-torquing drive shaft bolt. There are several things listed under the inspect part that is not usual: example drive shaft boots.
So my overall question is when I go in for the oil change, what would you ask for additionally to be done or inspected?
I was just quoted $650 to have all my fluids replaced except the engine oil and radiator fluid in my 2003 Highlander. They said labor would be four hours!. I'm no mechanic, but four hours needed for differential, brakes, transmission, power steering fluid replacement? Remember no radiator or engine fluids. Seems high to me. What do you think?
Thank You.
Why doesn't my "plugged-in" dealer know about this???????????????????????? If this problem has existed for a while wouldn't seals, or SOMETHING be damaged?
Thanks again!
During the last service the dealer service adviser also mentioned that it appeared that my water pump had been leaking and it was probably a good idea to replace it. On the 4 cylinder it is a much easier job than on the 6, but I don't see any point in getting it done until it is leaking a significant amount or getting noisy. Again . . . any ideas?
Over time this leakage will leave a trail of coolant chemicals and the (S)dealers will often point out this trail as evidence of a failing water pump.
So I would not rely on the dealer for an opinion but I would begin watching the coolant level for time to time or watch out for pools of coolant under the water pump area of the engine.
If you mean the oil firm type of K&N then STAY AWAY, worse than snake oil as over time it might, will often, result in damage to the MAF/IAT sensors.
However, I'm a bit surprised you battery is giving up the ghost after only 3 years. I had my OEM batter in my '03 for six years and after only one cell died I decided not to push it any farther and got another OEM.
However, as with most things, YMMV, which it obviously does.
I've had good luck with batteries from Walmart in Boise heat (but only ~3 months of heat a year). Who knows who makes those - I've heard that both companies source for Walmart depending on the part of the country you are in. AutoZone is probably similar.
Six of one, half dozen of the other?
I live close to a Sears, and after triple A left, I drove straight there and had one of their "big bopper" batteries installed! Of course it must be considered that I still have less than 50,000 miles on this car!!
year 2004, highlander, anyone know how to get the tire pressure light off?
Jay
My mechanic called a Toyota dealer for the part and the parts guy said, and I quote,"These Toyota Highlander drive shafts are FLYING OFF THE SHELVES!"
I've been doing some research and have found that people are saying that there are "poorly engineered drive shafts" in some of the trucks.
Toyota is only admitting to the Tacoma drive shaft issues.
Is Toyota keeping secrets?
Add this one to the recall list, Toyota!
http://www.toyota.com/recall/
I had no great expectation of noticeable improvements in power and/or fuel economy so I was surprised to feel my Highlander is more responsive and lighter feeling with the K&N. The biggest change is in how much more smoothly it shifts now. Four cylinder Toyotas like mine have always drawn fewer complains about shifting than 6 cylinder models, and I have been pretty satisfied with mine. But there is one circumstance -- when pulling out on the road in front of my house and then giving it the gas, calling for a downshift, when the transmission seemed to take a long time making up its mind. Not only that, but worse, it almost seemed like the engine lost power before the shift, making the whole process slow, jerky and annoying.
Honestly, I can still feel a delay when my Highlander shifts down under those same circumstances, but the delay is shorter and, best of all, there is no feeling of slowing down before the shift. Under normal driving conditions the shifts are much smoother -- almost completely unnoticeable -- and my car feels more responsive. It is no sports car -- my other car is a Miata (which I also just fitted with a K&N) -- but it does feel lighter. Okay, seat-of-the-pants impressions are not always right, but I am sure of the improvement in shifting.
My feeling is that Toyota mapped the ignition timing (and possibly cut-off) and fuel injector settings while the engine and tranny were on a dynamometer with a less restrictive than stock air supply. The restriction of the stock air box and filter just throws the timing and fuel setting slightly off kilter. If I remember right, even a brand new OEM paper filter doesn't perform as well as the K&N.
I am not a K&M salesman and don't want anybody to buy one on just my say-so. If you feel that your shifting could be improved you might think of talking to car enthusiasts who are likely to experiment with things like K&M filters. If they are as satisfied as those I talked too (and I am), you can make up your own mind. I have no idea what effect a K&N filter has on a 6 cylinder Highlander.
We didn't particularly want a moonroof, it was just in the car we bought. We may have opened it a half-dozen times or less in the last 8 years and haven't opened it in the last 5 years because of the "cable problems" I've seen posted here. I intend on keeping this car past 300,000 miles (only 105K now) and don't want to have the moonroof sealed with ductape (prior post on this forum). The HL moonroof seems to be one of the weakpoints of the vehicle.
Phil
Thanks...
I took a 1200 mile trip recently, ~1000 at 74-79mph, and oil consumption was just barely noticable on the diptstick.
Yahoo!
Cheap, easy fix. Don't let a shop overcharge you or tear your engine apart - $6 part and 15 minutes. Maybe it was a $5 part, can't remember. And, by the way, the old PCV valve rattled like it should, and appeared to pass the suck/blow test. Go figure.
Jonas
Doug
My recent reading calls into question their long term filtering ability, but that's somewhat affected by proper oiling, which seems more art than science. OEM filters have gotten better over time, with reduced restriction that is what the K&N's primary claim is. There are BMW tests which show no performance improvement with a K&N, and an Australian Lexus Coupe group (Soarer in Australia) test which shows the Toyota filter works just fine.
I still have the K&Ns! (but no BMW, thanks)
My butt dyno felt a difference in the Highlander when I installed the K&N.
I disagree with the idea that reduced restriction in front of the throttle plate has no effect at less than WOT. Any reduction in restriction in the intake makes it easier for the engine to breath, making it more efficient at any RPM or throttle opening.
Smoother shifts is an interesting result, but if it works for you, great. Just be judicious with the oil when you clean the filter, and you have a lifetime filter with better shifting to boot. Fyi, I use PJ1 filter oil in an aerosol can from the motorcycle shop.
Jonas
Otherwise they were a PITA. When it rained, the water would get to the filters quite easily and start clogging up the breathing which of course made the bike run like crapola.
I swore off of them after selling my last bike and have never looked back. I don't think they worth the hassle and god knows how much is just the right amout of oil?? it's a crap shoot. No way to be 100% certain of the correct amount.
Take an 8' diameter water pipe (OEM filter) down to a 1" diameter water pipe (throttle plate) and measure the flow downstream of the 1".
Now use a 10" diameter inlet pipe (K&N) and measure the flow.
And check just how small, 70-80% restriction, the throttle plate opening is, and how low the intake airflow actually is, during simple cruise, 99% of the time.
K&N, NO positive effect, except(??) higher noise level, and more cashflow at K&N.
The real question is: "how much pressure drop is significant?" Atmospheric pressure at sea level is about 14.7 psi. Two percent of that is 0.294 psi -- not very much. But 2% is huge to car makers -- they do cartwheels over small increases in power and/or fuel economy. If you spend $2,000 a year on gas, 2% of that is $40, about the price of a K&N filter.
I am not saying that a K&N filter gives me a 2% improvement, but I seem to feel some improvement. Even my skeptical wife says the Highlander feels lighter and smoother (maybe smoother shifts). Looking at the economics -- assuming I don't have to have my air flow sensor cleaned -- even 1% means the K&N will pay for itself in 2 years.
Don't mean to sound like a K&N salesman. I wish Toyota would come up with a more efficient air filter and air box.
And I think your numbers are a bit skewed. The OEM/factory filter is typically more than 95% efficient, only lowering the downstream pressure by ~5% at WOT. So how could it possibly have a POSITIVE effect at normal throttle openings.
Go back to the water pipe analogy. Put a restriction of 1" in the mid-point of 12" water pipe with a inlet pressure of 30PSI and measure the downstream pressure. Serious reduction in downstream pressure, right?
Now add a 0.5" restriction downstream of the 1" restriction and measure the pressure between the two restrictions. What, BACK UP TO 30PSI...???!!!
How can that be...??
With today's cars it would be easy to measure, just record the output of the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor, at 65 MPH on a level section of roadbed, with and without the K&N installed. With an OEM filter and then with the K&N.
I'll readily wager that you'll not see even a 1% difference.
K&N filters are worth their weight in GOLD on the race track, but off...NOT even worth pocket change, not even a holely pocket.
Not true, just no base truth to that statement.
There is only a pressure drop if the filter is actually providing a restriction to airflow. Add a higher, tighter, restriction downstream and the interim space fills with atmospheric pressure faster that it can be "exhausted" through the "downstream", tighter, restriction. Neither the K&N, NOR the OEM/factory filter will cause ANY atmospheric air pressure drop as long as the downstream restriction results in filling the "interim" space faster then it can be depleted.