Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

ateixeira

A flashing light usually means bad news. If it's on (not flashing), that's a warning, but a blinking light means you should park it and call a tow truck. At least that's what Mazda is saying with that blinking light. It could be a simple short circuit.

I'm not nearly as concerned about the window. It's probably a weekend project for you to fix it, and you could get whatever parts you need from a wholesaler like Trussville Mazda (follow vendors link on Miata.net) or from a junk yard.

I have the valve noise on my car (33k miles), and it's fine as long as it quiets down after the oil circulates.

Texas? I would not get a hard top. It's a pain to put on/take off, and you don't get a long period of consistently cold weather.

-juice

freddy_k

I've tested different grades of fuel in my '99, and I'm sticking with regular. There was no noticable difference in feel, sound, or speed, and A simple four banger like this should not need premium fuel in the first place.

Did you get the hard top for the winter? It looks great, and will help prolong the life of the ragtop.

maynardf1

That's good to hear. I use reg. octane in our saab, which has a turbocharger, so it seemed silly to pay more for the miata. Since asking, I read on miata.net that some people use higher octane in very hot weather to avoid pinging. We'll see.
Yes, the hard top came with the car, which was one reason we got this particular one.
Any tips for removing it, when the time comes?

WarpDrive

2000 and earlier models use regular (87) octane gas with no penalty in performance. All 2001+ models recommend premium gas but even then you can get away with regular with some reduced performance. All modern cars have knock sensors which will retard the timing to compensate. If you ping with your recommended gas, then something is wrong with the car (may be caused by other problems)

Some other high performance cars and sportier cars require premium gas.

the_bluepotato

lngtonge18 - I have been lurking for some time, but decided to chime in here to help you out. I work for a Miata Tuning/Repair shop in GA (the biggest on the east coast) and have some guidence for you:

"How much have people paid to redo the top on their Miata, both with and without a glass window?"

We do quite a few of these. Prices for most RObbins tops with a 3 year warranty runs about $200-$300 in labor for install. Robbins tops range from $399-$1000. I highly recommend that you get a new rain rail (they come with most Robbins tops) when you re-do your top or risk leakage in yoru car. Glass windows are nice, but for your year you still need to unzip them. Also, make sure you go with a brand name top, like Robbins so that you can have the proper zipper match should you ever have to replace the window.

"I was also wondering about the shocks. The car crashes quite severely over bumps but the shocks seem to control the ride fine. Is this just characteristic of an old high mileage convertible or are my shocks worn out?"

This could be two things - your shocks and your bump stops. Mazda makes a rubber boot that protects your shocks - take a peek now at your Miata to see what I am talking about. These always seem to disintegrate over time - part of the boot is an incorporated bump stop that the car's suspension rides on. If these are old, they need to be replaced at the time you do your shocks. Shocks run about $60-$120 each in a variety of settings (Koni, KYB, etc) - and the new boots run $27 from Mazda. Shock install typically runs about $75 a corner on your car (it varies).

"I also hear a clunk on the driver's side front when hitting potholes. Could this be the same weak shock problem or is this a worn out ball joint or control arm bushing?"

Not likely - again, may be the shocks. Possibly springs here as well. Start with shocks first as you need those at the start. Bad bushings just make the car feel loose.

"Lastly, the rear brakes don't seem to be working properly. The rotors don't swipe clean and shiny like normal. The rotors get warm, but not hot. It's as if they work slightly, but not completely. Are the calipers just partially frozen or is there something wrong with the brake proportioning valve?"

This is someting that most "brake places" really screw up the Miata. If you are sure that the pads are not connecting correctly, I am almost $100 sure that someone did not grease up the slider pin on your caliper. You can easily do this yourself or just have it done somewhere else. I also recommmend that you stick with Mazda OEM pads for now as they fit the bast and have no chatter. See www.miata.net/garage for the brakes and how to do it your self.

"Oh, can anyone direct me to good websites where I can look up strut tower braces and other such performance products? Any help would be much appreciated!"

Absolutely, try these:

www.miata.net (look under Market Place)
www.rspeed.net (this is where I work)
www.miataforum.com (this is where we ALL hang out)

Hope this helops - let me know if you have any other questions - I'll be sure to chime in more often.

-Peter/Atlanta
www.rspeed.net
www.thebluepotato.net

the_bluepotato

Again, I'll chime in here. 87 Octane is perfectly fine for any pre VVT Miata 1989-2000. I believe that with the 2001-2002 Miata's you may want to consider 93 gas.

For the guys (like me) who have a supercharged or turbo'd Miata, we always use 93+ octane gas as we are prone to detonation due to our forced induction systems. We also use timing controlers to pull out some timing to get rid of the pinging, etc.

Pinging is always a fuel and spark issue. Changing out your plugs and wires as well as using good gas (name brand, etc) will most likely solve any problems.

-Peter/Atlanta
www.rspeed.net
www.thebluepotato.net

ateixeira

100% sure, or $100 sure? Was that a freudian slip? ;-)

Just kidding, your post was very helpful. :-)

-juice

lngtonge18

You have been very very helpful! This forum seems to be filled with nice helpful people My rubber boots are pretty much shredded into pieces on the rear shocks, so I guess that means my shocks are probably OE and need replacing. As far as the top goes, the bad part is really the plastic rear window. You can't zip it up anymore and the plastic is sliced up and faded. Is it possible to just have a new plastic window sewn in? The rest of the top is fine except for one small hole that I thought I could just put a patch on. Think that could work? Curiously, why does the window need to be zipped down for it to fold? I would think plastic could bend anyway it wants. Also, where is this "rain rail" located exactly? I wanted to see what kind of condition its in. The rear brakes seem to be working better since I changed the pads. Maybe they just weren't adjusted properly. I didn't relube the caliper pin (i know, shame on me), so I guess I will take it back off and lube it for thrills and see if it works even better. Otherwise, I'm thouroughly in love with this car! I didn't think such an old car could be so much fun to cruise around in. I'm already getting compliments on the car and they all say they can't believe its 10 years old with how good it still looks. I think this car was taken very good care of and garaged most of its life. I can't wait to get the money to start adding things to it. Thanks again for everyone's help and keep the advice coming.

the_bluepotato

"Is it possible to just have a new plastic window sewn in?"

With decent results - not likely. This is a risk that I kind of steer away from - sewing in a OEM plastic window will not hold up in the long run. Now, You may be able to buy a replacement window for your top (this is not a sewn in option, but the entire rear of the top). The zipper matching may be an issue. Look here:

http://www.miatamania.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/miatamania/shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?PlateID=4367

Also keep in mind what when you have a replacement window installed, the labor alone will be the same as having a new top installed - just get a new top and save some $$$.

"The rest of the top is fine except for one small hole that I thought I could just put a patch on. Think that could work?"

Possibly - check with your local auto shop for small vinyl patch kits. Keep in mind that vinyl stress is the enemy here. Over time it will come off or continue to grow.

See next thread for part II:

-Peter/Atlanta

www.rspeed.net

the_bluepotato

Sorry - but Edmunds is acting up on me here.

"Curiously, why does the window need to be zipped down for it to fold? I would think plastic could bend anyway it wants."

Because when you try this - you will see the window make a kink sometimes - this is not good. Especially in REALLY cold weather - I cannot tell you how many times a customer has called to say "OH MY GOD! I just barely hit the rear plastic window and it split!" This material does not like cold weather. Be careful. This plastic has limitations and we recommend that you first undo the 2 latches first, unzip the window and use a nice soft towel to protect it as you lower the top. I have been doing this now for ouver 10 years on all the Miatas I have owned. But for you (since you top is old and may be replaced), you can do whatever you like

"Also, where is this "rain rail" located exactly?"

Get in your car and look towards the back. At the base of the top (on the inside), you will see a curved black metal strip that attaches the plastic window piece to the car. This is the rain rail and collects the rain as it runs down the back of your top and exits under your car. Rain rails tend to fail over the years - I *HIGHLY* recommend having these replaced with a new top. If you get that "sloshing" noise in your car - like water is trapped - then this is why - yoru rain rail is leaking or your drains under your car is clogged (although unclogging your drains is a real easy fix). Robbins vinyl top with plastic windows do come with a new rain rail for about $399. The economy top does not ($299).

Congrats on the Miata!

-Peter/Atlanta
www.rspeed.net

freddy_k

Hardtop: Removing it is very simple, just don't try it alone. It isn't heavy but it is awkward. Also, order a storage rack for it if you don't have one, that way you can keep it covered and out of harms way.

I should be getting my car back this week. I love hopping back into it after driving a lousy rental for a while.

lngtonge18

I didn't know changing the fluid in the tranny and differential would make such a noticeable difference. My tranny was making quite a bit of noise when accelerating and had a high pitch whine when travelling in 5th gear. After changing the fluids, its considerably quieter. They said it wasnt low, but maybe the fluid was worn out. It still whines a little in 5th gear but not near as bad. I definitely feel better about the tranny now, though the syncros sound a bit worn out in 3rd gear when decelerating down a hill. I have determined the driver's side front shock is completely worn out. It doesn't absorb any impact, so that's why my ride is so darty and jiggly. I ordered 2 new front KYB XR2 gas shocks, as well as new bump stops and strut mounts. Think that should be a good replacement shock? I can only afford to do the front for now, but it should make a big difference in how it rides, since the rear seems to handle fine. Oh yeah, I ordered the factory cup holder to replace the broken ashtray, stainless steel door sills with the Miata logo in red, a leather armrest pad, and the auxiliary courtesy lights. Thats it for now on the fixing up of my 92 Miata.

maltb

make sure the door sills look good before you replace the rear shocks.

ateixeira

I don't like the cup holders - they get in the way of shifting.

Then again, who cares? I almost never use them.

-juice

maynardf1

Does anyone have a collapsible cupholder I've seen advertised? It attachs near the passenger's left leg and folds when someone is sitting there.

newmiatakid

Hi, J2kbarlow, Ace and Juice. I took your advice and had the tranny, differential and turret fuilds changed (plus a synthetic motor oil change). Although it isn't perfect (well, its a 1997 car . . .), it is easier to shift from 1st to 2nd in cold weather. Thanks again for your help. The instructions that I got off Miata.net were extremely helpful. I showed it to the mechanic down the block who followed every step of the way and completed the job and charged me 1 1/2 hours for labor (I provided the parts and oil). Well, I would like him to install white gauges, side markers and driving lights next. I wish I was good w/ my hands so I could have all the fun doing it myself. But I guess I just have to pay him to do it. Any advice on the gauges and lights installation?

lngtonge18

I know you were just being funny, but the only reason I'm not doing the rear shocks is because it would have cost between $625-800 to have it all replaced. Labor alone ranged from 235-430! That's a big chunk of change, especially after I just spent over $400 on tires and wheel alignment and 3290 on the actual car. The top needs attending to before the rear shocks, so I'm prioritizing my expenses. I'm still in college so funds are low. As for making the sills look pretty (they only cost $30), I'm trying to make it look as good as possible to make my friend jealous when I visit him next weekend. He just bought a house so I have to have something to show off! Have to keep up with the Jones

mainsail2

Just bought a 1992 with 58,000 miles from private owner. In last 10,000 miles has had the following replaced at the local dealership: Timing belt, thermostat, valve cover gasket, plugs and wires, crank o'ring, clutch slave unit, battery, a/c evaporator, fuel filter, air filter, tie rod end boots/dust seals , tires, and rear brakes (including calipers).Since the whole Mazda 60,000 recommended service was performed, I am assuming the gear box and differential oil was changed too, but I can't tell from receipts.

I have never owned a Miata so I have questions: Is it common for the FRONT brakes to go this local without replacement? From you experiences with the 1.6 liter engine, is it too late to switch to synthetic motor, gear and differential oil? What premium oil filters work and fit best?
Where is the best place to find a cup holder for this car that will replace the ash tray? Also, where can I find new center hub cap covers for the seven spoke factory aluminum wheels? I'm sure there will be more questions later, but that's enough for now. By the way, the car has had routine oil changes and service at the dealership every 4000 miles since purchased new. I probably paid a premium price ($4700.), but compared with other Miatas I've been looking at, it was in much better shape. Today, it gets a good stripping with Dawn detergent and then the Zaino treatment with as many finish coats as I can stand to put on!

lngtonge18

I just bought a 92 also, although mine has almost 140k on it! I would say its too late to switch to synthetic oil in the engine. They usually say to do that around 10k. Switching now may cause some of the old brittle gaskets to start leaking because synthetic is a lot thinner. The tranny and differential may be ok to switch to redline synthetic, since a lot of people have done that later on with no problems. I'm also looking to replace the center alloy wheel caps so if you find anyone online who carries them let me know. As for the factory cupholder that replaces the ashtray, I just ordered one. I bought it from here:

 

http://seriousauto.zoovy.com/Interior_Accessories/

It only cost $20. I should get mine on Monday and will let you know how it looks.

lngtonge18

I had my front shocks replaced on Friday. What a difference!! The car rides like new again. The left front strut was leaking, which was causing the nasty clunking I heard. They said everything else in the front end was tight, so I'm happy. I also was able to fix my passenger side power window. It was jamming halfway down. Turns out the cable that controls its movement had popped out of the 2 plastic clips that hold it and was getting caught underneath the window as it went down. Put the cable back in its clips and voila, the window works perfectly! It is much faster then the driver's window so the driver's motor must be worn out. So if anyone is experiencing a jamming window, thats your problem!

mainsail2

Thanks for the answer. I'll either stay with dino for the engine or consider a light blend of synthetic/dino. I'll order the Redline differential/tranny oil and go that route for those. I did the clay bar, Zaino job on my '92 yesterday and it really looks good. I also removed the alloy wheel center caps, and repainted with silver paint from an art supply store and a felt tipped brush. (I used a tiny artist's brush to go around the Mazda logo). I started by wiping the caps down with vinegar and then I primed them with a gray auto primer and lightly wet sanded with 220 paper. The whole process for the four caps took less than an hour and they look great! I'm not an artist either, so it doesn't take much skill. The reason I did all this is that I called the dealer Saturday morning and they want $32.05 per cap! My total cost was less than $10 bucks for all four.

lngtonge18

I was gonna tell you to do what I did, but we both accomplished the problem in similar ways. I spray painted the center caps with a sparkly silver paint meant for auto trim (I covered the Mazda logo with tape). It took 5 coats to cover the imperfections and yellowing, but it turned out pretty good. It's not an exact match but it's pretty close. It looks way better then it did and only cost me $3 and 15 minutes.

As a sidenote, if anyone has an older Miata in bright red that looks faded, let me tell you of a wonderful product that returned most of the luster to my paint! I waxed my car with Turtle Wax Color Cure car polish and the difference is amazing. It comes in different colors (black, blue, white, red) and somehow returns your original color. My back bumper and the panel in between the trunk and bumper had turned pink, but after the wax it looks red again, though not quite as bright as the rest of the car. I thought I was going to have to repaint those panels, but now it looks just fine. The rest of the car has a deep gloss to the red that really makes it look sharp and almost new! I highly recommend this product.

ateixeira

Those center caps tend to go yellow, so the previous owner may have tossed them. Try trussvillemazda.com, they're a wholesaler for OE parts.

How much were those front shocks?

-juice

nyccarguy

I saw a yellow older Miata (Flip Up Lights) with a black top today. Pretty cool.

smars

We yellows (sunburst is actual color) are a fairly rare breed. Until the '02 special edition yellow came out, the sunburst was the only yellow (production),and was only offered in '92. There were around 1510 made. They all started life as a white and were pulled off the line and then painted. It was a $250 option in '92.

ateixeira

I find the Sunburst color gorgeous, a real gem. Anyone want to trade for a Crystal White? ;-)

-juice

lngtonge18

I ordered my front KYB GR2 shocks from tirerack.com. They were considerably cheaper there then they were elsewhere. $55 per shock for the front and $58 for the rear. Not too bad. However, it was $207 to get the front shocks installed and a front end alignment done

ateixeira

I guess the alignment is required?

I'm wondering how mine are. They aren't noisy, at least.

-juice

lngtonge18

According to my Miata repair manual, the alignment is not necessary to replace the shocks. But most shops will disconnect the control arms for better access and quicker installation, which will require an alignment to be done. If your car feels floaty, rough, or has real nervous steering, then your shocks probably need to be replaced. Otherwise, they are probably ok. How many miles does your Miata have? What year is it and is it a special edition?

lngtonge18

Can anyone with a pre-94 Miata get the brakes to lock up? I tried a max braking exercise to see how the car handles emergencies and the car refused to lock up any of the brakes. I had the pedal down to just about the floor at around 45 mph and still no lockup. Is this normal? I mean its good to not have lockup in order to keep better steering control, but it just seems like the brakes aren't all that strong and the pedal has to travel quite a bit before you feel any retardation. I had read in an old Car and Driver that the older Miatas suffered from weak brakes that faded easily, so maybe its normal, but I'm not sure. So can anyone tell me their experiences with older Miata brakes? Also, are the larger rotors, calipers, and pads on 94-97 Miatas a simple bolt on to the 90-93 models? Thanks for any insight.

dverespey

I still miss my yellow miata......it was a great car while I lived at the coast.

ace10

your miata is approaching ten years of age... if there is a general lack of brake feel or pressure, then your brake lines are probably shot. i'm thinking that the lines may be bulging instead of tranferring the fliud. it does seem odd that you are not getting any lockup from any of the brakes, though.

did you check the reservoir, is it filled to the appropriate level???

as i recall, my '93 did not have ABS, yet it stopped like a champ (i only had it for one year though!). i don't think that any of the possible solutions are inexpensive... you could replace the brake lines. either with oem, or perhaps some snappy braided ss lines from an aftermarket source. another problem could be with the master cylinder. don't really know for sure. i seppose that really old brake fluid could be the cause, but that sounds unlikely...

just my thoughts,
ace

ateixeira

Mine is a 1993 with 33k miles or so.

Let's see, floaty? Not really. Maybe just a tad. Rough? Yes, a little. Hard bumps make the CD skip. Nervous steering? Definitely not. It has near telepathic steering, tracks wonderfully.

Is the rough ride just a characteristic of my (base) suspension? Or do you think it's time for new shocks?

My 1993 has the smaller brakes of the original (94 and later got bigger discs), and no ABS, but it stops well. I'd at least bleed your brakes, maybe get better pads while you're at it. If you autocross I'd consider a brake kit.

-juice

j2kbarlow

Brakes - my '93 has no ABS and while I've never locked the brakes, I've never had a problem stopping quickly either. And I'm no master of braking - I'm a stomper :O)

Shocks - juice, your shocks sound like mine were when I replaced mine. New ones will definitely help the harshness over bumps. Miata's don't tend to get "floaty" as their shocks age due to their light weight. I went with Koni's because I wanted to lower the car without changing springs. I had tried the non-adjustable Tokico HP's and HATED them on my car. Sold them to a friend who had a '91 BRG and they were GREAT on his car. I think the big difference was the springs were changed between those years (I don't think it was age, because I put more miles on my car). Just some random thoughts....

ateixeira

Thanks for the input. I don't want to lower mine, though. Can the Konis be adjusted so the car doesn't sit any lower?

I'm not looking for anything sportier than stock. The same sportiness with a bit more bump tolerance would be fine.

-juice

freddy_k

ateixeira- If you like the ones that came with the car, why not stick to them?
I'll probably stick to Mazda parts when it comes down to replacing them. I find the stock suspension very nice, giving decent performance without the expense of a rough ride, or lowering a car which already rides low enough to be dangerous with so many monster SUV's on the road.
For the muffler I really like the note the facory one produces, and wouldn't change it, especially for one of those whiney tin can ones.
That's what I love most about the car - it's perfect (for me) right out of the box!

ateixeira

To be honest, I don't know how they performed. I bought the car used, with 8 years on them, despite the low miles.

Trussville has them for about $90 each front, $65 each rear. $310 seems a bit steep for a stock swap, no?

-juice

j2kbarlow

The Koni's can be set for stock ride height, but they are a little firmer than stock at their softest setting. I was concerned about this as well. BUT, they damp SO much better than stock, that the extra firmness is kind of a wash.

All that said, the KYB's were reviewed by the Miata Club Magazine a few years back and they give a stock ride with better longevity than the stockers.

smars

For the $310 Trussville quoted you, you can get the KYB AGX 8-way adjustable. I just changed them out on my '92 in Jan. It wasn't that difficult, just a little time consuming the first time around. Tremendous difference! If you search for info on miata.net, you'll find that the oem shocks don't last all that long.

The bump stops are also an integral part of the suspension system (I've read that you are actually riding on the bump stops most of the time during hard cornering), and you may want to consider changing them out at the same time as the shocks. If your car has any age on it, the boots are probably already shredded. After researching the subject, I decided to replace all 4 corners with "newer" style. The bump stop itself is a little thicker than the old style, but supposedly the "spring rate" is a little softer when it first starts compressing.

lngtonge18

Man, I love this forum. So many helpful posts. Anyway, Juice, I'm not sure what to make of your shocks. 33k is very low mileage even for oem parts. However, my car's CD player doesn't skip at all when I hit nasty bumps (I could have a better quality CD player, but who knows. Mine is a new Pioneer 180 watt system). Remember that the Miata will always have a sort of rough ride because it has such a short wheelbase. As for the brakes, no one here has been able to get their's to lock up either so maybe the Miata has such good weight distribution and brake balance that it just doesn't normally occur. But my soft brake pedal tells me something is weak. I mean it stops well enough and you can hear the tires starting to scrabble for traction, but I think that either my rubber brake hoses are worn out or the master cylinder/calipers are weak. It has about the same stopping ability as my 84 VW GTI, which also suffers from a soft brake pedal and still has the original brake calipers, rotors, and brake hoses with 200k. Since I plan on keeping my VW forever, I will add new parts and replace the rubber hoses with stainless steel lines and see if that fixes its soft pedal. If it does, then I know what to do to the Miata and can decide whether I plan on keeping it long enough to warrant the upgrades.
I will be driving my Miata on its first long distance highway trip tomorrow. I might drive the whole way (300 miles one way) with the top down. Oh the joys of living in sunny Florida in winter time, hehe I can't wait to see how comfortable and tolerable it is to live with on a long distance trip. I also can't wait to make my friend jealous. Wish me luck.

smars

I got around to replacing brake and clutch fluid last weekend. It was a little on the dark side, but didn't look too bad. The brake pedal is now noticeably firmer. I was able to lock the brakes up afterwards. I've got summer tires (Pirelli P-7000) the temperature was in the 50's, and not the smoothest of roads. I'm changing the pads to Axxis Metalmasters this weekend, since it still has the originals at 62k miles, so I'll see if that makes additional difference. I'm thinking about changing to ss lines, but want to do one change at a time to better judge the impact. Others on miata.net claim a significant benefit by fabricating a brace for the master cylinder to reduce flex when the brakes are applied.

maltb

300 miles with the top down can give you a little wind burn. I reccomend a backwards baseball cap or a bandana.

ateixeira

Have a fun trip.

-juice

lngtonge18

Tonight, I ended up answering my own question about the brakes. I locked up at least one front and one rear brake in a panic stop. Some stupid moron decided to abandon their broken down piece of junk early 90s Continental in the middle of the lane on a dark 2 lane road during twilight hours with only dim hazard flashers on. The car was at such an angle that you could only see one taillight. If I hadn't stopped in time, I would have hit the back door. I had nowhere to go either. It was either stop, hit the car, go into a ditch with the top down (not a pleasant thought), or run into oncoming traffic (equally disturbing). Thankfully, the car stopped, though the rear end started to come around in the skid. The brakes only locked up at the very end, but I did lose steering control and slid about 8 feet. At least I know the brakes can lock up normally like every other car and perform half way decently. I still think they could use improvement but they work. Cool thing about a convertible is you can let your disgust known verbally to anyone within ear shot quite easily. Me yelling out how stupid it was to leave a car in the middle of the road must have worked because the car was moved off the road 5 minutes later (I heard someone exclaim "ohhhhh" when I went into the skid so I know someone heard me). Anywho, thats my near miss story, lol. As small as these cars are, anyone here have lots of trouble with near misses due to others not seeing you? How do the Miatas hold up in accidents?

davidb72

Nothing like a near death experience to motivate you to really stand on those brakes!

Sounds to me like you should look into Autocrossing your Miata. Wouldn't it be nice to practice manuvers like these in a controlled environment where the most harmful thing you could do is run over a traffic cone?

From all the reports I have seen the Miata fares pretty well in a wreck. If you are worried about rollovers you may want to consider a roll bar. I put one in my Miata in an afternoon. It really stiffens up the rear of the car and gives you some peace of mind... Good luck, oh, here's a link to a good source for rollbars.

http://www.bethania-garage.com/rollbar.htm

ateixeira

Visibility is key. If you have the old pop-ups with sealed beam headlights, they are useless. Consider getting E-codes with real H4 bulbs in them. The difference is like night and day.

During my swap, I had one E-code + H4 on one side, and the sealed beam on the other, and when you turn both on, it looks like the sealed beam is OFF! I have a photo, but PhotoPoint went under so if you want to see it e-mail me (it's in my profile).

Also, get a louder horn. The stock horn is wimpy and you want an authoritative "honk" should you need it.

Besides that, drive defensively and always give yourself an "out". It's true, Miatas are tiny and big SUVs often just don't see you. Help them out.

Dave: did your roll bar eat up any leg room? I'm tight as it is.

-juice

davidb72

No, my rollbar didn't eat up any leg room. The ones I linked to are a very well made very nicely fitting rollbar. Autopower bars available from Moss are good too, but from what I've seen they aren't quite as heavy duty.

j2kbarlow

...well I've been rear-ended twice! I must say that the Miata holds up well. Unfortunately, neither the H4 headlights not the louder horn would keep you from being hit from behind! Some people just can't pay attention when they're driving.

Also, a friend was rear-ended by a tractor-trailer full of rebar on an off ramp and he walked away AND the car wasn't totalled. I'd say the Miata is pretty stout in a crash.

j2kbarlow

Hey guys, thought I'd ask a question for a change :O)

It's time for me to change out my clutch on my '93. I've got the Racing Beat Intake, JR Cat and Exhaust, and I running the timing at 14 degrees BTDC. So more HP than stock, but not outside the limits of the stock clutch. However, I'm pretty hard on a clutch - lots of downshifting and engine braking. So, any thoughts on what I should be looking at? I've read the reviews on Miata.net but most of the performance clutches are being installed on boosted cars. Is it overkill to go the performance route for me? Or would they give me better longevity than the stock? The stock hasn't been bad (it's gone almost 120K miles), but it's seemed to be a little "lazy" with it's grip for at least the last 30K.

Thanks for your thoughts!

ateixeira

Thanks, Dave.

If he walked away from a collision with a semi, he was lucky, pure and simple. That could have crushed any car.

Clutch? I'm still on the original, but I'll be listening for the answers.

-juice