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Comments
least popular I think is twilight blue. it was hard to get when it came cancelled for a while, and just recently came back for new orders (might be for 2004 MY)
I'm waiting for the 04's with diamond graphite (assuming I go G35) because i find all of Infiniti's other colors lack the richness of even BMW or audi's basic solids.
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/ly/03g356mt.htm
People are telling me they get new G35s for the same price. Good service, a free Infinity loaner and free car washes are worth everything to me.
If the dealer will not let you take the vehicle overnight, take a hike and go elsewhere.
After owning Jaguars for many years (still own them) and obtaining the best customer service possible, I am giving Infinity a try because this is a FUN car to drive. Simply put: this car beats the heck out of some Jaguars and I hope the service is as good. Only time will tell......
1->2 1385 2556
2->3 1695 2608
3->4 1821 2914
4->5 1606 2570
5->6 1489 2248
It would be logical for me to always shift at the same point, but apparently it is not correct. It is interesting that 3->4 shift is higher in both cases. Can anybody give some explanation for this?
Thanks
For one thing, those numbers are way too low. Even when accelerating gingerly, I usually shift at 2500 or 3000 rpm. Shifting at 1400 rpm is practically impossible--that's just several hundred rpms above idle speed.
For another, those numbers are way too precise. Nobody can shift (intentionally) at 2248 rpm. Targeting the nearest 500 rpm mark is close enough.
682 gallons X 1.79 a gallon regular = 1221
682 gallons X 1.99 a gallon premium = 1358
You lay out only $137 more a year so that your engine will perform at manufacturer's specifications. Isn't that worth your car pulling exactly as the manufacturer suggests? You just spent 35k, so what's another $130?
I simply used the numbers from the manual. I do not have it with me, but if yours is readily available you will find that they recommend shifting at:
13 26 40 45 53 (normal)
24 40 64 72 80 (hard)
The above speeds are in km/h.
From these numbers, taking into account tire size and transmission ratios, I derived rpm values.
I think you screwed up when you derived your RPM values.
According to the numbers you presented, the engine would be spinning at only 2550 RPM's when doing 24mph in 1st gear. No way.
By your posts it sounds like you don't have experience driving a manual transmission car and are trying to figure out the textbook way of going about it. Don't worry about looking at the tachometer as you drive. Better to listen to the engine and notice when it starts to sound too raucous. That's when you shift.
It is 2556 rpm for 24km/h which is 14.91mph. 24mph is 38km/h and according to my spread sheet it needs about 4100rpm
Just messing with you.
Why go to all this trouble, though? I mean spreadsheets, conversions, formulas? It kind of takes the emotion out of the driving experience, don't you think? You're supposed to be a driver, not a robot.
and, the "normal" 40 45 53 km/hr shifts...shifting into 4th at 40km/hr and into 5th at 45 km/hr seems like overkill. and...40km/hr is around 25 mph! Shifting into 4th at 25 mph and into 5th at 28ish mph? wow.
In Calif, and especially San Diego, we pay thru the nose for watered down gas that gives us about 10% lower gas mileage. The max octane here is 91.
SUV drivers often shell out $50.00 and more for a fill up. I could not fill my Lincoln LS two days ago for $30.00!
Just remember, everyone's money situation is different. Just because you purchase a 35K car doesn't mean that you have extra disposable income to spend on gas. People spend their money on what they feel is important.
In any event, I really enjoy driving my G35. I have found very little difference between 87 and 91 octane. Regardless of which octane I use, I'm still having fun driving!
=:-)
I understand people having priorities on how they spend their money but you still have to wonder why someone would spend all that money on one of the world's best sport sedans and then skimp on gas, thereby giving up some of the power that you just paid a lot of money for. Will he also accelerate, brake and corner slowly so as to avoid expensive replacement of tires, brakes and suspension components? If that is how you are going to drive it, you might as well buy an Camry.
The concept that someone buying a $35K car can afford premium fuel is absolutely correct. However, there is a fraction of the population that leases cars that they couldn't otherwise afford. Many of these folks buy regular.
In Roanoke, VA, premium costs 1.30/gal while regular costs 1.10/gal. The difference here is also 0.20 cents/gal.
So the above calculation of the $137/year, still holds, whether it is LA or VA.
Later...AH
I did not buy this car solely for its performance. My primary concern was the huge interior room that the car provides.
fredmcmurray-Not sure if you own a G35. I did not see it listed in your profile. But as a owner, I will need any extra cash because the brake pads have a very short life. Some people have replaced them at 10,000 miles and even earlier.
Anyways, don't get me wrong. I love driving my G35. I probably test drove 10-15 vastly different cars. This car gave me a luxury sport sedan with ample interior room for a good price.
BTW, even if a G35 manual will be worth 1k less in 5 years when i get rid of it I don't really care. I saved a grand buying the stick and I had a much better time with the car!
Trading it in, the grand you saved while purchasing the MT car, will turn out to be a 2-3000 $ bath, since as I explained in the TSX forum, for a used-car dealer, a manual trans car is an unwanted puppy due to the narrow section of the populace that wants them. That is in the real world. However, if you intend to keep your car for a long time, this is a non-issue.
Bottomline? You love manuals. A manual is available in the G35 (unlike many other makes that do not even make manuals any more). Buy the manual, since the Automatic is anyway going to make you miserable. Just my 2c.
Later...AH
Do you live in Roanoke, Va.? I'm there every week, from Richmond, on business. I haven't seen another G35 out there until last week. I noticed a Black G on Brambleton. I have a Black one as well.
Don
Black G35, Premium, Winter, Wood, Nav.
Don
My 3 year lease on my Lincoln LS Manual is up on June 30th.
The resale market for this car is a real dog.
The LM dealers didn't want to touch these cars when they were new (the biggest dealer in San Diego sold 7 in 2000),so they surely don't want them used. So Ford Motor Credit takes a bath when they get them back as lease returns and wholesale them out.
Anyway, the MTX's go out at around 15k, which is a good deal for some kid that otherwise could only afford a slower and smaller FWD Civic.
If I buy the car at residual, I have to pay $17,600. And the LM boys won't lower the residual to $15k.
So my only option is to hand the car back.
But I'm protected by the lease, even if the market for the car falls through the bottom.
And Manuals are a rough ride on resale value, no matter what the brand.
Would you buy a 3 year old M3? Not without a full mechanical check-out and warranty! These things use oil like gas anyway.
Actually, leasing a Manual is like grand theft auto anyway. If the lease companies were smart, they would make the Manuals more expensive to lease because of the hit to the lease company.
As it is, the residuals are similar to the auto trannys as are insurance rates (at least on the Lincoln LS).
http://www.aaarims.com/index.html
Plus, there are a lot of sources out there for repairs that will make the wheel look new. Do a Google search for wheel refinishers and see what turns up.
Regardless, I can't lease again as I want to own the G35 (or the winner) and I'd prefer to keep the next vehicle for a minimum of 5 years. And if the car turns out to be a dog like my Jetta, i want the ability to part with it easily.
Blueguydotcom, people who list a mere $500 trade-in difference between manuals/automatics, certainly don't seem to be living in the real world. It is sad but true that the Automatics would command around 2-3000 $ more than a corresponding manual at trade-in time, unless it is an ultra-high-performance car like the STi, where a manual is a truly desirable feature that a typical purchaser of such cars would mandatorily want.
Later...AH
Later...AH
But I may get a better deal this Summer, if there are any Gs left.
Many buyers wait for the next year, and I tend to get the leftover "ugly duckling".
I want the sportiest, lightest, least featured car. I don't care about the upgraded audio, or a sunroof. I have had many sunroofs, I rarely use them, and they all end up with some problem. If something adds weight and complexity, I usually nix it. HID headlights would be nice, but I probably have to get the whole store for those.
I usually go for the color first (white for SoCal, so I don't have to use the power robbing AC alot)and see what else is on the car.
Usually, and especially with the Manuals, it's going to be a dealer trade. My LS Manual was made
in February 2000, and sat on a dealer's lot in LA for months until my dealer in San Diego "found it". Of course, my dealer never stocked manuals, and tried to talk me out of it, saying "Nobody wants a Manual in a luxury car"!
I told him that I really didn't want the luxury part of it, and that all the manufacturers made me buy a luxury car to get a RWD, 4 door manual.
It was the same story when I bought the car before that, a 1983 Toyota Cressida with a 5 speed Manual. I had to keep that for 17 years. It had to survive the great FWD plague that swept over autodom from about 1985 to 2000, when BMW was the only 4 door, RWD, manual available.
I'd probably still have the 4 door Supra if some guy hadn't rear ended me in April, 2000, just in time to lease the only (at that time) 4 dr Manual RWD available besides the more costly and maintainance-prone BMW. In the 80's, BMWs ate water pumps for breakfast.
The G will be my return to Japanese quality and fewer repair issues.
I still will have to install a better exhaust system, decent wheels and tires, and the LSD pumpkin from the 350Z.
Someday, the secret of killing the VDC will be found, and that guy will make a fortune on his new circuit board.
Then my new G will be just about perfected. Here in California, one can't get too aggressive with engine tweaks because of the smog laws. Because of smog exemptions on pre-1974 cars, there is explosion of interest in these "old" cars. Buy one, restore it, and add dual quads, headers and whatever you want, as long as you can run it on the watered down, overpriced, 91 octane stuff we call gasoline here.
see here
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Boa- rd=UBB25&Number=67412186&page=0&view=collapsed&sb- =5&o=&fpart=1
(I had same question)
The VDC system uses a Brake Limited Slip Differential (LSD) system to improve vehicle traction. The brake LSD works when one of the driving wheels is spinning on a slippery surface. The brake LSD system brakes the spinning wheel which distributes the driving power to the other wheel. If the vehicle is operated with the vehicle dynamics control system turned off all VDC and TCS functions will be turned off. The brake LSD system and ABS will still operate with the VDC system off.
I have believed that traction control is the same as brake LSD, but after reading the above I am not so sure. Can somebody explain me the difference?