paste wax versus liquid wax?

britton2

paste wax or liquid? So far I've only used the paste on my car - but my arm is always so tired afterwards I just wonder what most people prefer....I've heard the paste is more durable - what about the shine factor? How much easier is the liquid to apply? thanks

redsilverado

some like meguiars #26 go on easy enough and come off just as easy. after you wipe all the residue off, go over the vehicle again using meguiars quick detailer, and you should be very happy with the results.

gonzo0903

Britton2..what brand of wax are you using, and what are you using it on?

Liquid car waxes are easier to apply, especially if you are using an orbital polisher to apply them with.

Paste waxes are also easy to apply and remove, if it's done right. For both liquid or paste wax, apply a thin coat as opposed to a heavy one. A heavy coating of wax wastes product, takes too long to set up and haze and is a bear to remove.

After polishing off the residue, add another thin coat of wax...the shine will be spectacular (providing that the paint is clean and smooth before waxing!) You say your arm hurts afterwards. Are you using a hard paste wax or a soft paste wax? I find that most people who use a soft paste use way too much.

redsilverado

have you clayed the car yet? i didn't think much of this process until i tried it, but the results are spectacular. then if you do like gonzo said and apply the second thin coat, you'll be needing dark glasses to be sure.

britton2

only 3 months old so I haven't really considered claying it - I've used 2 different paste waxes: Blitz and Mother's (phase 3) - I guess I am putting on too thick of a coat because after hazing it does not wipe off very easily - I guess these are the hard paste waxes - which brand(s) is softer? For some reason it's difficult for me to apply a thin layer - does the liquid go on more evenly? Does it also have to haze before removing? thanks

redsilverado

is something a lot of people tend to do. then it can be,based on temp. and humidity, a bear to remove. took me a few coats to realize just how little Zaino was needed when i used it. too much and it left streaks. the liquids (depending on brands) are easier to apply, but i found mothers liquid to be one of the thickest. there's a lot of pros and cons to when you should clay, but both of my trucks were 2 months old and i found that the clay process yielded better results because it also removes rail dust and other contaminants.

rayfbaird

A machine is much faster, but works best with liquids. The machine is much better for deep cleaning and waxing. You're arm cannot even begin to match the cleaning power.

You will also find a better than new finish if you use a multi-step system. Clean off water spots before you start this process, or they will be locked up in the wax.

1. I always use a machine for a polish (Meguiar's #7 yellow glaze). Don't use anything stronger. Scratch removers should not be used on new cars.

2. For a second coat I use a good liquid, Meguiar's Gold Class, or #26 hard yellow wax with a machine application. This is generally all that is needed for VERTICAL surfaces.

3. After that is done put a paste wax on the horizontal surfaces, roof, hood, trunk, and tailgate. These areas suffer much more from environmental damage. The use of the machine removes surface imperfections, and requires a much smaller application of wax. The hand wax goes on in a much thinner coat after this process and is muuuch easier to remove. My can of Meguiars hard yellow #26 paste has lasted with this method for over 30 applications.

I found IBM, Meguiar's Hard Yellow #26 or Gold Class, and Mother's to all be good in paste waxes. Kitt and Rain Dance are OK, but Turtle Wax definitely doesn't last as long.

I do steps 2 and 3 about every 6 weeks, and the complete system twice a year. But my cars are outside, rain, sun, snow, or sap. If you watch beading carefully, it will let you know.