Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
Please post your Elantra problems and share any solutions.

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
«13456768

Comments

  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    I think the front windshield on my GT is cursed to attract flying rocks!

    I have already had two good-sized rocks hit my windshield while driving about 75mph on the Interstate. Fortunately, the windshield must be of good manufacture, since each impact is merely a small 1 millimeter mark on the surface of the glass.

    Do dent doctors remove these things too?
  • ribornriborn Posts: 2
    My new 2001 Elantra with 650 miles seems to be shifting weird. Does anyone else notice between 2nd and 3rd gear an engine rpm increase of at least 1000 rpms before shifting into the next gear?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Some auto glass companies use a resin compound to patch small nicks and cracks. I had it done with a crack on my previous car just to see how it would work, because the auto glass company (Abra) told me they would replace the glass and not charge for the patch work if I didn't like the results. Well, the small star-like crack was still noticeable after the repair, so I had the windshield replaced because I was going to sell the car and had full glass replacement coverage. So my advice is, be sure the auto glass company stands behind their work if you go the patch route. Abra warned me ahead of time that the patch might be noticeable, and that the main value of the resin repair is to seal the crack and prevent it from spreading.
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    I think my dings are so small that a repair would probably do well. Thanks for the info.
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    I have a 2001 Elantra GT and the mornings I also notice a delay when the auto tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. I do not, however, notice a 1000 RPM increase in engine speed. The shift delay is very brief, usually only resulting a split-second revving before the shift occurs.

    This shift delay only occurs when I use very light throttle pressure. If I'm giving the car a lot of gas the shifts are crisp. Also, after I've driven for 15 minutes or so the shift delay goes away.

    I noticed the same dealy when I test-drove a different Elantra GT. Perhaps there is some sort of temperature control governing the tranny's shift patterns. Or perhaps Hyundai's "fuzzy logic" shift computer needs to be reprogrammed.

    Other than the shift delay and a tendency to hold 3rd gear too long, I'm satisfied with the transmission's performance.
  • dorf47dorf47 Posts: 18
    Has anyone else noticed that the engine starts very "hard", kicks over with almost a "shake" and then settles down?
  • pam49pam49 Posts: 2
    We have a 2000 Elantra (dark green), 5 speed that my daughter has used now for ten months, problem free. Recently we were waxing it when we noticed several small circular marks (I hesitate to call them dings, but that's what they look like) on the engine hood. The rest of the car seems fine, but these marks were not removed by cleaning. Do Hyundais have a reputation for poor paint? We keep the car very clean and only noticed these marks recently. Does anyone know Hyundai's paint policy (not rust from underneath)? Thanks for any response. Pam
  • rbeaudinrbeaudin Posts: 14
    I picked up my champagne GLS 5-speed on Saturday, put it in a garage for two hours today, and now I have a small paint nick on the bumper! (Okay, I live in Manhattan, I should expect these things). Anyone have any touch-up advice? I would imagine that the paint would be different for the plastic bumper vs. the rest of the body, but I might be wrong.....any advice would be appreciated!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    I think it's the same paint for the bumper as for the rest of the car. Your Hyundai dealer has, or can order, a bottle of touch-up paint. If you use the paint sparingly (a paper match stick can work better than the supplied brush) and have a light touch, you should have decent results. Except the touch-up paint never seems to exactly match the car's paint color. I have the same model, a champagne 5-speed, and you've reminded me I have a couple of nicks to touch up (not bad after 9 months).
  • rpcohenrpcohen Posts: 3
    I own a 2001 GLS and it has about 4100 miles on it now and the car is really much better than the Chevrolet Cavalier that I owned prior to it, but my problem is that the power steering seems very light and I am not used to that from other cars that I have owned in the past. My wife has a 2001 Volvo V40 and her steering is tight and I'm wondering if the light feel is normal for the Hyundai. Any advice as that to do or just forget about it. Other than that no other problems to report. I really think the car is great.
  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    >...and I am not used to that from other cars that I have owned in the past...

    Power steering is supposed to be light. I believe that they don't use the real power steering in the Cavalier; but a "light" version which I believe they call "ASSISTED..." something!
    That may account for the difference you are feeling!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    This is weird... I also have a '01 GLS (10 months) and just rented a Sunfire this week--it should steer like a Cavalier. I thought the Sunfire's steering felt a tad lighter than the GLS'. The GLS has speed-sensitive steering. So it should feel very light at low speeds or when parking, and firm up when cruising. If yours does not do that, you should have it checked. The Volvo could very well have firmer steering; European cars are known for their firm steering.
  • I have a 2001 white package 2 with automatic and I am having or had the following problems...

    1..steering wheel shimmy since day 1, 2 balances and a rotation later, STILL have the shimmy
    2..Check engine light for a canister valve that wasnt closing at 250 miles
    3..bad compressor at 1000 miles
    4..a pull to the left at 65MPH, pull to the right at 0-45MPH

    Does anyone have any advice? I only have 1000 miles on this car, and I never had these problems with any other car I owned. This is a brand new car, I am losing faith in Hyundai. Is there anyone I can call at Hyundai to vent my problems besides the dealership?
  • rpcohenrpcohen Posts: 3
    It sounds like your tires are out of round, I once had 4 out of 5 tires (yes including the spare) out of round and after the tires where replaced no more problems.
  • th003gth003g Posts: 149
    I have had my car for a week and have already noticed an annoying hesitation to shift in any gear, the engine will rev afor a sec or two and then it seems as if the tranny finally "catches," really unexpected in a brand new car, it happened in teh car I traded in but that one had 100k on the odometer not 170. This is while I am keeping my foot on the gas at a constant level, it is almost as if I had to either depress it more or let go a bit before the tranny shifts. The engine revs wild for a bit and then the car shifts.
    Also above 55mph the car pulls to the right, all tires are inflated to 30psi as the sticker recommends. In measuring the height of the wheelwells, I found that unloaded, the drivers side front of the car is .25-.5 of an inch lower than the other side. Gonna call the dealer first thing tomorrow and schedule an appointment.
  • vinpvinp Posts: 1
    At 800 mile I took it in for the front end pulling to the left. Then it went back two more times!They told me they all do that. Check engine light comes on.
    1) Faulty gas cap sensor????
    2) o2 sensor
    3) Can angle sensor
    4) Exhaust rattle
    5) Brake peddle touches floor
    6) Car vibrates at idle
    I was told Sensors are about $300 after warranty is up. Going back 8/29/01 check engine light is on again. Steering is pulling to the left even worse than before, you can here the tires ! I like the power, the look and room but the rest they can have .Off to brush up on Lemon Law.
  • erk3erk3 Posts: 4
    I have the same problem with my new elatnra (800 miles). It started at 300 miles and does the weird shifting when it is cold - suppossedly it is learning how you drive but it alwyas misses the 2 to 3rd shift when it is cold and only started doing it after the 300 mile learning period. This is very irritating.
  • erk3erk3 Posts: 4
    I have the same problem with my new elantra (800 miles). It started at 300 miles and does the weird shifting when it is cold - suppossedly it is learning how you drive but it alwyas misses the 2 to 3rd shift when it is cold and only started doing it after the 300 mile learning period. This is very irritating.
  • erk3erk3 Posts: 4
    The air conditioner on my elantra makes a high pitched wine when it first comes on and then about every 30-40 seconds after thatit reoccurs for about 2 seconds. It is very audible and can be heard over the radio.
  • I have a 2001 Elantra GT and it has about 2,000 miles on it. Lately I have been hearing a strange buzzing noise near the headliner when I accelerate. One more noise that I just recently been hearing is when I first warm up the car and haven't used my AC for a long time and turn it on it makes a loud grinding noise. So I turn it off right away, this is the second time that I have heared the grinding noise. Any of you guys have those problems? I will take it to the dealership for a check up and I will let you all know.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Re buzzing noise from headliner: that happened to my GLS but it turned out to be my wire-rimmed sunglasses rattling in the holder. I don't recall, does the GT have the sunglasses holder? Could also be from the sunroof mechanism, if you have that.
    Re A/C noise, mine made some noise once after not driving for several days, but that was it. What is a "long time" for you? Since it's happening more than once it would not hurt to have the dealer take a look.
  • My GT doesn't have a sunglasses holder. That part is occupied by the controls for the sunroof. A long time for me is when my car is parked the whole day at work. Well I have scheduled an appointment with my dealership and I will post what ever they find. Thanks!
  • Had a strange thing happen today. Have an 01 w/about 5700 on it. It rained very hard for a short period in the late afternoon. Then the sun came out and everything got hot and steamy until a cold front moved in, and temps began to drop. I came out from work to find that the driver's side windows were completely fogged over, on the inside! I actually could see the "ghost" of where the sticker had been. Any ideas as to why this happened and is this a cause for concern?
  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    > >.... It rained very hard for a short period in the late afternoon. Then the sun came out and everything got hot and steamy until a cold front moved in, and temps began to drop. I came out from work to find that the driver's side windows were completely fogged over, on the inside!...> >

    It is normal: due to the rapid change in outside temp.(to cool dry air); While the inside of the car is still hot and humid from the "previous weather" and couldn't escape with the warm and humid air mass to which it belonged; because it was trapped inside the car... it creates condensation on the inside ...

    The same thing will happen if you take a glass of water with ice cubes, while the outside temp. is warm and HUMID: condensation will form on the outside of the glass.

    .
  • Hi folks! Please help.I now have about 900 miles on my Elantra GT and really love the car!My only problem has been the FUEL GAUGE and the digital readout.
    Around my 3rd gas fill-up I noticed that the FUEL GAUGE would not register FULL,even after I topped the tank off.The corresponding digital readout seemed to follow the GAUGE indicator...showing a partially full tank.Example: when the GAUGE was working properly...FULL...the digital readout indicated approx 487 miles to use. After the problem began with my last fill-up, the FUEL GAUGE indicated less than full with the digital readout reading approx 350 miles to use. I read somewhere that someone with a similar problem began filling-up with the ignition on the ACC mode.He stated that this took care of the problem.Has anyone else had this FUEL GAUGE situation? I have the warrenty,I know,but I was told the vehicle would have to be checked overnight at the dealer.I'm hoping I can remedy this myself.
  • Got my Elantra GT 5-speed a month ago...very happy with it! Except for a couple of things.

    1) After I drive the car for a while (15-30 minutes), the engine makes a very harsh noise when cruising in 1st or 2nd gear. Sounds like there is a whole lot of excessive friction. I know that I only have about 700 miles on it and sometimes new engines need some time to "break in", but the noise is concerning.

    2) I've just noticed this problem recently...when I go over sharp bumps (both at high and low speeds)...the suspension (especially the rear) makes a very loud "thunk". With the firmer sport suspension on the GT, I should expect a little more tire and suspension kickback when I go over bumps...but this a totally differnet kind of noise...it sounds like there is something loose back there.

    If you've had any of these problems, I would really appreciate your feedback. I will be taking the car to the dealer soon, but with your feedback I'll be able to better explain these problems to the technician.

    Thanks!
  • I just got a 02 Sonata and it has a problem shifting between 2nd and 3rd when cold. Has anyone had any luck with resolving the issue. I bring my car in Friday to get checked out.
  • wystwyst Posts: 9
    Hi, we have a 2000 GLS with 16K miles on it now. Itis back in the shop and having it's THIRD transmission being put in it.

    It started back around 9K when it would not shift well from 2nd to 3rd. It would rev out all the way to the redline and then bang into 3rd, so they replaced tranny. Now it was shifting very hard from 1st to 2nd, they inspect the car and find it was blowing tranny fluid out it's vent. So... another transmission is going in.

    We are really worrying here, I mean 3 trannys in any car is a LOT, but for one that still has not passed 17K?!

    Does anyone have any similar experiences or know of any info about their trannys, and also what would you do if you were in our situation?

    Tanx.

    **Edit** This is the second car we have bought from this dealer, and believe it or not, before this had happened we were seriously considering getting the new Sonata. (we are selling our Tracker)
  • My only problems with my 2001 Hyundai Elantra package 4 purchased in Aug., 2001 have been the gas tank cap and the digital clock. The sensor came on on my car and it turned out that you needed to turn the gas tank cap 3 times or more (till it clicks) when you fill up with gas. Two weeks ago, my clock stopped working and they had to order a new one. One word of caution to residents of the Twin Cities, Minnesota, I have had poor service experiences with Denny Hecker's Rosedaly Hyundai. I would not take my car there for maintenance.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Could you be more specific about what kind of trouble you've had at Denny Hecker's? That's where I bought my GLS and where I have had it serviced, but I had a couple of minor problems with them last time in (more lack of effort rather than mechanical).
  • I have had my 2002 Elantra GLS less than a month and I also have that horrifying noise coming from the air conditioner (See Message #20). Does anyone have a solution for this problem? I have had them work on it and they put a new part in the evaporator. It didn't help. Luckily, I had a really nice tech who said most of the techs are "half-deaf" so they don't hear it, but he did and also knew about this noise. Also, another tech on-site, but working for another co. said this is a known issue for Mitsubishi, Hyundai, and some other companies. They are calling the Hyundai tech line to find out about other options. I find it unbearable. I'm glad I'm not alone. Please write me if you have any suggestions. [email protected]
  • I bought a 2002 elantra gls 11/21/01. I looked in the owners manual about oil viscosity and it gave me a wide range of weights to use. I live outside of chicago, IL. Any feedback on winter and summer weights to use. My ford ranger and dodge caravan use 5w30 all year around.
  • I own a 2000 Elantra wagon GLS with 16k miles. I've had no problems with the car, but the mileage averages 25 mpg. I think this is low for a car this size. I had been commuting about 2 miles a day, and for the past month about 15 miles (round-trip, mostly interstate). Most weeks I drive an additional 60-80 miles on the interstate over a small mountain. I use the A/C on and off in the summer.
    The mileage will vary a lot with local driving. One tank will be 20 mpg, the next 30. I usually refill around 150 miles. The varying mileage doesn't seem to have much to do with how I drive and I'm careful to fill the tank completely, especially if it's taking less gas than I expect.
    I mentioned the mileage to the dealer once and they became very defensive. Since the car runs well, I'm not interested in any major work. I tried changing the air filter, but no change. Has anyone found anything that improves their mileage? Thanks.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Their house brand (Super Tech) is really Quaker State. It's not ILSAC GF-3/SL yet, but assume they'll change over in the next few months. SL oil has a high synthetic component. I try to keep a 4000 mile change interval and insist that they substitute a SuperTech (Champion Labs) filter for the Fram (I hang signs all over the dash--NO FRAM).

    I use 10-30 except for the most recent change (winter) 5W30. I think 10W30 is their preferred weight. I use 5W30 year around for those cars where the manual recommends it. Hyundai is rather unique for allowing 10W40 oil. Haven't seen that on a recommended list in almost twenty years, and don't think I'd want to try it.

    If you're into synthetics, I'd recommend 10W30 all year long.
  • Yesterday while driving my 2002 GLS (280 miles) I noticed a quirk in the automatic transmission very similar to the one described by riborn (message #3). Namely, the transmission would delay and the engine would rev approximately 1,000 rpm before shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.

    erk3 (message #19) reported the same quirk, and cjaccetta (message #6) reported his GT also delayed slightly (but without the rpm increase).

    I didn't notice the problem this morning on my way to work, however, and the shifts are crisper if I accelerate more quickly. I'll monitor it closely from now on, though.

    In the meantime, I'd be very curious to hear updates from those of you who experienced this quirk. Have you had any additional problems? What did the dealer say when/if you took it in for service?

    Any info/updates would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hello pghguy,

    The problem is actually the tranmmission computer getting familiar with your acceleration patterns. The delay in shifting should be gone after you have driven the car for a longer period of time- the tranmission is simply adapting to the way you accelerate. I believe the feature is called, "Hyundai Intelligent Vehicle Control" (HIVC).
  • And when I went back to check the gas cap, it seemed loose (never getting gas again without checking - in NY they don't let you pump your own!), so I suspect the check engine light came on because it wasn't put back on properly (or at all). Do I need to go to the dealership to get the light off/reset, or will filling it with gas suffice? The fellow at the dealership told me on the phone the light comes on because air gets into the gas tank....any voices of experience would be appreciated!
  • I now have almost 9500 miles on my 2001 GT and have observed this curious "shift flare" between 2nd and 3rd gear.I've read several definitions of this...seems to vary from vehicle to vehicle,some of ya refer to a needed fix in the Power Control Module,others speak of the tranny adjusting to the driver's habits.For those interested here's some aspects I've noticed on mine:
    1) my rpms have not "flared" more than 500,ever.
    2) the flare-up is indicated on the tachometer only,no speed increase.
    3) prior to my current milage(9500)it use to occur wether the engine was cold or warm.After I passed 8500 it now seems to go away after I've been driving about half an hour.
    4) when the engine is cold or inactive for awhile,the process repeats itself.
    5) the most interesting thing for me is how it's been going away once the vehicle warms up(ie less of a problem than before)
    It's a quirky thing alright but it's the only quirk I've got in an otherwise problem-free car.
  • Anyone else had any problems with their rear door seals on their GLS? I have an '01, and the seals keep sagging. I'm going to have the dealer replace them, but wondered if it was a design flaw or just my car.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    When my '01 GLS was new (November '01) I noticed that the seal on the driver's side rear door was loose in one place, i.e. a couple of the plastic fasteners popped out of their holes. Is that like the "sagging" you noticed? I popped the fasteners back in place and have not had any further problem with the door seals. Since then I've waxed the door jambs a couple of times and rubbed Armor All on the door seals, which I do routinely on all my cars. It may help prevent the seals from sticking.
  • my '01 makes a buzzing noise when accelerating- it seems to be coming from the right side near the center console. Not only am I getting a buzzing noise from that spot but another buzzing noise is coming from a location near my ear- I thought it was the seat belt harness- this sound only starts when I the vehicle is moving. Very irritating.
  • I hate to pay someone to do something I should be able to do myself. I have a 2001 GLS and want to take out the factory cassette and install an after market CD. It looks like there is no way to get to it from under the dash. I called the dealer who said no problem just use a screw driver to pop off the face plate slide the old one out and the new one in. I tried that and it looks like the face plate won't come out unless you remove the dark color plastic trim that surrounds the ash tray, heat A/C controls, radio, insturment cluster. Does this have to come off?Then the way the dash is shaped the trim ring on the new CD won't fit in flush like the original did. Any suggestions, other than pay a professional to do it, will be appreciated.
  • hoy75hoy75 Posts: 2
    I just bought 2001 elantra and changed into after market CD...
    this is how to...
    1. remove ash tray
    (there is bar over the ash tray, pull ash tray while pushing the bar)
    2. there are 2 screws the place where ash tray was unscrew.. and there are 2 more in the gauge area
    3. pull the face plate from ash tray section.
    (It needs some force but not too much...You don't want to pay to order new faceplate)
    4. during pulling there are some connections in the cigar lighter UNCONNECT IT
    (CAUTION: WATCH OUT FOR SHORT OF ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT)
    and there are some more connection in clock and emergency lights and dimmer in opposite side...unconnect these things.
    5. There you can see 6 screws beside of audio..Because audio and shelf areas are connected...
    You should remove 6 screws...

    6.Finally you disassembly audio.

    change audio and re assembly

    If you have questions please leave messages on here
  • hoy75, Thank you, your instructions were right on. I had tried removing the four screws but the face plate still felt so solid I was afraid I would crack it. The temperature in Baltimore has dipped in the 20's, I think the cold makes the plastic more brittle. I placed a small ceramic disk heater in the car for a few hours to heat things up prior to pulling the face plate. The install looks and sounds great, but I hope I don't have to do it again any time soon. The mounting brackets on the factory unit would not work on the new CD. Also, the way the face plate is designed the insert that came with the new CD wouldn't work either. I finally decided to cut, bend and drill my own mounting brackets. Alls well that ends well, I guess. Thanks again.
  • hoy75hoy75 Posts: 2
    Glad to hear that..
    Engineers in hyundai don't think about replacement to after market audio...
    Mainly because they only think about In-land (Korea)customers.. In korea, market of after market audio is not so big enough.. and most people just satisfy with the factory installed audio.
    Furthermore.. there were some car-audio theft cases.. so designer designed parts difficult for people to open and replace...
  • I purchased my 01 Elantra GLS in late January 2001. Since then, I've been back to Maxon Hyundai Service Department 3 times for the same problem. The fuel door releases but does NOT open. I have to carry a very small plastic spatula with me at all times to pry open the fuel door after I release it using the interior fuel door release. What a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] this has become!!!

    This has occurred all year regardless if cold or warm weather. It happened in the summer when I would go to fill-up my tank on my way to work at about 6:45 AM. The only time the fuel door springs open is after the car has been sitting in the sun for several hours.

    The spring is the problem, I'm certain. How can I increase the tension on the spring? Now with winter upon us, the fuel door won't budge in the AM or PM!

    Forget WD-40 (it's been tried), dealer has tightened cable, but spring is the culprit so the fuel door remains "unlatched" but won't open. Maxon Service Department did absolutely nothing the last time I brought it in (12/28). Called today and asked to speak with the Service / Parts Director. I was told he was with a customer. I left a message and waited all day. I'm still waiting for that call back ...

    This problem along with several other minor ones is starting to shake my confidence in Hyundai. Great warranty but we don't fix the problem ... they just ignore it and hope the customer just resigns himself/herself to live with the problem or go somewhere else.

    After owning the car for about one year, if I had to make the "buy" decision today, I'd buy a Honda Civic EX. I owned 3 Hondas before deciding to give Hyundai a chance. NEVER had a problem!!! By the way, in NJ, the Honda Civic EX is $300 cheaper on insurance than the Hyundai Elantra for identical coverage!

    Live and learn ...

    If anyone has ANY helpful insights on the fuel door problem, I'd REALLY appreciate your kind advice. If anyone has any recommendations on a good Hyundai Service Dept. in NJ, I'm all EARS. I won't go back to Maxon Hyundai under ANY circumstances.
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    Had to replance an oil pan assembly because a Hyundai dealer technician overtorqued the plug. I am in touch with national customer service to get them to pay for it. Seems that one of the fixes is to install an aftermarket oversized plug. The service manager at the offending dealership, Alexandria Hyundai in VA., claimed that there are problems with 2001 Elantra oil pans. No one else has heard about this. Anyone of you hear about it? Happy New Year all!
  • My new oil pan is in but I'm waiting to get it installed (under warranty). Problem at the first oil change, the tech could have stripped it, or as the parts counter man said he has seen several new pans come in and believes they were over tightened at the factory. After a close up look at the new pan it is cast aluminum with a steel plug (the new plug is longer than orig). Anyhow too much torque on the steel plug will pull the alum threads right out. Be careful if doing your own or keep a eye out for leeks at the plug if car is serviced.
  • Hello,

    I have the same problem with my fuel door as chameleon3. I just tap on mine when i doesnt open, pull the release again and it usually opens rithe up. Now that i hear that this problem may get worse, i will try to come up with a solution that is more permanent and if i succeed, I will post it
  • shado4shado4 Posts: 287
    I have a similar problem with the fuel door on my 02 Elantra GT. The three times I've stopped for fuel since I bought the car I always have to pull the release lever twice before the door springs open.

    I'll have the dealership take a look at it next Wednesday since I've already scheduled an appointment to have them fix (I hope!) a REALLY ANNOYING buzzing/rattle coming from the front passenger door area. This sound is driving me bonkers!

    Anyone else have this buzzing sound?
Sign In or Register to comment.