Top Five Ways to Make Your Car Run Forever
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edited March 2016 in General
Top Five Ways to Make Your Car Run Forever
Top Five Ways to Make Your Car Run Forever article on Edmunds.com
Top Five Ways to Make Your Car Run Forever article on Edmunds.com
1. Slick-50 provides no additional protection on start-up. It was most likely quickly filtered out right after being added, and even if it wasn't, there's nothing to make the teflon stick to engine parts in the first place. Bearings and cylinder wall interfaces retain sufficient oil to provide lubrication until the oil comes up to pressure (just a few seconds).
2. Buying higher octane than your car needs to operate is a waste of money. OTOH, if your engine has a carbon buildup that results in some "pinging," running a higher octane will help.
3. Running the same brand of gasoline can actually lead to engine deposit build-up. Changing brands occasionally will allow the new gas to remove the deposits left by the previous gas, and visa-versa.
I had a 96 s10 2.2l changed oil regularly did all the maintenance and everything... yet it blew the engine at 172K!!! yeah i try to take car of my vehicles but if it burn/leaks oil why change it if you adding 1-2+ courts a week?!
With today’s modern engines I don’t see the need for any protective measures other than routine maintenance. I’ve had a few cars with over there hundred thousand miles, with great compression, no metal in the oil and absolutely no oil consumption.
1. Buy a vehicle you know you want to drive for 200,000 miles. You are more likely to take care of it. And you are more likely to drive it like you love it.
2. When buying a car, use Edmund's True Cost to Own to avoid surprises, especially the frequency of repair and the cost of repairs. It is easy to fall out of love if the repairs are more than you anticipated.
My reply is the I am currently driving a 2001 Ford Taurus with the standard 3.0 V6 and over 400,000 miles. Id does not burn or leak oil, never been "worked on", other than water pumps, power steering pumps, alternators. The transmission was rebuilt at 150,000, but it's a Ford. My previous cars, all using the same "one over full" were '72 Ford Econoline - 220,000 miles; '76 VW Diesel Rabbit - 240,000 miles; '78 VW Diesel Rabbit - 260,000 miles; '89 VW Quantum Turbo Diesel - 270,000 miles; '92 Ford Taurus SHO - 220,000 miles. Also, my wife's '95 Camry - 173,000 miles, but she is retired now and doesn't drive much. All of these vehicles were purchased used with 40-60,000 miles already on them.
I have ALL the fuel receipts with the mileage at fillup on each back to '68, and the motel bills, too!!
None of these engines ever had any work, other than the water pumps, etc. and none of them burned oil.
The main reason I have been doing this is for the GAS MILEAGE improvement I get. It has been in the 8-10% increase range. The only reason I can come up with is that the cylinder walls get more "splash" lubrication and there is less internal friction. I change the oil and filter at 5K myself.
So, does anyone else have any ideas or similar experience??
When the metal in your engine is new and young, including the rings, it is strong and elastic (as opposed to brittle). To break in an engine, first baby it and vary speed for 200 miles or so, then change out the oil. For the next few hundred miles, keep varying the speed, and, be sure to run it as hard and hot and high-rpm as you will ever run it. The rings will expand and carve out their channels in the cylinders that will last the life of the engine.
If you exceed those limits later in the engine life, the rings will be too brittle, and instead of carving out a larger path, they will chip and flake and your engine will start burning oil.
Since I was told this, I have had four new cars, and none has ever burned enough oil to top-off between changes, nor any (internal) engine problems.
The oil-level should be BETWEEN the upper and lower markings in the 'safe' area.
Asian vehicles often need JASO certification on their oil and European vehicles (like my Diesel volkswagen that gets 56 MPG) REQUIRES special oil that the API does not even recognize nor test for.
The second most important factor is the quality of your fluids and regular replacement. If you have a sealed transmission that does not call for maintenance, contact the service representative of your dealer and ask them what the manufacturer tells them. For engine oil, the simple truth is you should always use better oil rather than the minimum standard. natural oil is a mixture of hundreds of carbon chains and the rating is an average. In recent years, the refineries have improved the formulas to limit the total number of elements and make them more consistent. The result is a better average to start with. All oils age with use causing the carbon chains to breakdown into smaller chains with less lube protection as well as accumulating dirt. This is where the synthetics step in. Mobil discovered they could create lube oil carbon chains 3 to 5 times as long as natural oil. The longer chains actually flow better at hot and cold temp so they protect the parts better. Their long life comes from the length of the chains. Like conventional oil, their chains breakdown with wear and age, but they break down into "normal" oil first.
When you read opinions like the one here telling you that all oils are the same (or "good enough") if they carry the API symbol, you know you are being mislead.
Ignore almost 100% of what you are reading.
Synthetic oil is The same as conventional oil, The difference being added chemicals to the conventional oil. [non-permissible content removed]'s developed it during WWII due to oil shortages.
That's right, synthetic oil is no more than conventional oil with added chemicals.
The synthetics run for longer periods between changes due to the added chemicals.
So when you change your oil at factory service intervals and you are using synthetics you are wasting $$$.
Go an extra 3-5 k when using synthetics. I go 10k on my 09 Dodge 1500.
One great way of telling if an oil change is due is to pull out the dipstick, wipe the oil through your fingers and read what it is telling you. Is it still nice and clean looking? Moderate clean looking? Dirty as hell?
If it falls under the 1sst two categories then keep on trucking. The last category then change it.
Go by the owners manual for intervals not what Roy at quicky lube says. He doesn't have a clue, If he did he wouldn't be there making min wage would he?
Could someone on here that says “You'll blow out the seals” please explain!!!
If you don't know 100% for sure don't say you do. You look stupid to those of us that do know!!!!!!
The engine and crankcase (where the oil is stored) is open to the atmosphere.... it is not a pressurized system. Oil pressure comes from
1)The oil pump moving the oil, clearance between piston rod and main bearings create the pressure (resistance to the flow of oil [if the gap was 10 feet wide you would have zero pressure right? ]You still have what the oil pump is flowing just no pressure) There is ZERO pressure at the front and rear crank shaft seals, ZERO pressure at the cam shaft seals, Zero pressure at any seal.
To the people that keep an extra quart. 6 instead of 5 capacity.
Errr What are you thinking???? Do you really think the engineers that designed and tested your engine are stupid? Do you really think the engine is running out of oil as it operates? Perhaps if the oil seldom gets changed and the oil galleries are restricting the return flow of oil would this be wise. Gravity returns the oil to the oil pan.
The only thing you could possibly accomplish is as the crank shaft rotate it is contacting the overfull oil in the oil pan. Such contact causes frothing, think mixer in the cooking bowl, whips it up. You do not want aerated oil. More harm than good.
As for the other fluids,
Coolant every 100,000 or 5 yrs.(looses lubricating and rust protection qualities, also has a build up of sediment)
Brake fluid flush. Every other brake job or 60k. (absorbs moisture, Also the chemicals used to manufacturer the brake lines [inside the tubing] slowly erodes and is suspended in the fluid)
This is a service you will feel after the very first brake application, if done correctly.
Trans, I like to do every 60k using a flush machine and drop he pan to change he filter at 100k (Heat kills trans fluid) (Over a period of time operating trans fluid slowly looses it's lubricating properties, Also material from the clutch disc's [felts]inside the trans is suspended in the fluid and filter.)
Transfer case (4x4 only), same as trans. Every 60k
Front and rear differentials, Same as trans, every 60k or what the service manual indicates. Pay attention to the miles between changes intervals, some are more than others.
Power Steering fluid, toss up here, if I am going to keep the vehicle until the wheels fall off then 30k if not then at 60k.
Spark plugs, if they are not 100,000 mile plugs (Iridium, platinum tipped etc) every 30k.
If they are 100,000 mile plugs then at 80k. Dodge 5.7 liter owners should never use platinum plugs. Resistance is too great and you'll kill your coils. (use the iridium instead)
Here's why we change spark plugs regularly: The electrical current has to jump a preset gap in order to create a spark.
As the plug wears that gap slowly expands. This makes it harder for the spark to be created because it now must jump further putting added work on the coils.
The coils now must work harder and harder and after too many miles on the spark plugs you'll end up having to replace the coils and spark plugs. Change the plugs regularly and you will save big$$$ on not replacing coils. Coils are not cheap. No no no they are not.
Fuel system........ Pay attention
Some vehicles have a replaceable fuel filter. Replace it every 30k
I have not seen a clogged fuel injector since December 1986.
You DO NOT need a fuel injector flush/cleaning ever. The fuels we use in our cars now days are extremely clean ( it is the law)and burns super well. Not like it was in the 70-80s
What you do need every 30k is a
Fuel induction system cleaning service.
This service cleans the Throttle Body (think carburetor) including the IAC motor (Idle air control motor) [it's a little plunger like devise that controls idle.] Cleans out the intake plenum of all deposit build up so the air flows to the engine properly.
The Throttle Body mounts to intake plenum, as a unit they provide a path so the air gets to the pistons from the airfilter via that big black rubber hose where the airfilter is.
This cleaning service also cleans the top of the piston and piston ring lands of deposits.
Cleans the backside of the Valves and cleans the valve seats.
This service if done properly is one you'll feel immediately after driving off the lot.
Replace the air filter regularly.
If the kid at “All we do is oil changes INC” says you do, just do it... What is the worst that can happen, You get a nice shinny new air filter.
He's not trying to steal your $$ in fact he doesn't get your $$$ there is zero in it for him to replace your air filter, just extra work for him,
Do this, “Put a wash cloth over your nose and mouth, now run a mile. Are you out of breath?
You need an alignment: Go look at your tires, are they wearing funny? If so you probably need more than an alignment, you need front end parts and then an alignment.
Haggle alignment prices with them. It takes a whole 15 min to do an alignment.
I have seen dealers now that put on sensors as soon as you drive in the write up area,
This is CROOKED AS HELL.
Leave and go somewhere else.
They can not tell if you car needs an alignment by just sticking sensors on your car. They have to do other measurements (Using the proper equipment) before it is determined your alignment is out.
What a scam.
Rotate your tires every oil change Regardless. Every oil change. You'll be surprised at how many miles you can get of of a set of tires just by rotating.
I like to keep my best tires on the front and rotate every oil change for best wear.
Try to keep the tread wear even.
How do I know all this???
I am a ASE Master Automobile Technician. Have been for 30 years.
The 5 years before I got master I had at least 1 ASE certification.
I also have an FAA Airframe and Powerplant License.
I know just a tad more than the guy that put a ¾ cam in his engine. I always ask that guy why he didn't put a whole cam in his engine, it would run better with a whole cam.
Hit me up at [Email removed] for questions.