Winter Weather Maintenance
Got some cold weather-related maintenance problems? Have a winter car care tip? Put them here!
As we head into that season, it's time to think about how winter weather will affect your car.
kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com
As we head into that season, it's time to think about how winter weather will affect your car.
kirstie_h
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Edmunds.com
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
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kirstie_h
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Edmunds.com
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Many of the extended or "no maintenance necessary" items are designed to give the appearance of lower cost of ownership through the warranty period. There effect on operation after 60k or 100k is not a concern on the manufacturer.
Believing that AF will last 100k is a wish that may not be fullfiled especially if you drive few miles per year.
Otherwise the won't be such a market for replacement radiators.
If you've never driven in snow before, just take it very slow, give plenty (too much may not be enough) of distance between the car in front of you, and try using the brakes and steering as lightly as possible. Abrubt moves will get you off the road very quicly. Also, try to avoid lane changing or braking/accelerating on bridges because they can be icy even when the rest of the roads are clear. And watch out for the SUV's driving fast. 4X4 does't help if you're an idiot to begin with. I can get my Jeep just about anywhere plowing through a foot of snow, but the morons in town on cleared roads can't stay out of the ditches.
2. Synthetic Oil really improves cold starts. However if you have an older car, I've found that using conventional oil together with the additive Lubegard (buy at NAPA Stores) will help prevent seal leakage and also give good starts in cold weather. Lubegard is made of esters which help keep seals softer and less prone to leakage.
3. Get a inexpensive battery charger and make sure that your battery is carrying 100% capacity. Cranking power really goes down in colder weather.
4. I put on multiple layers of Wax. For Winter, I prefer 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax. It's more durable than carnauba for just a little more money. It may have to be ordered from an online store. I prefer Carnaubas like Meguiar's #26 in warmer weather, but it doesn't hold up as well to the coin operated or automatic car washes that I am forced to use in the cold. I haven't used them, but others recommend acrylics like Klasse. They don't give the depth of shine that I prefer however, and don't hide scratches as well.
5. Use a touch up paint can and cover any paint chips. Salt gets into chips and accelerates rusting.
6. Get a block heater. In my view this is the single best thing you can do for your engine. When the temperature is well below freezing you won't believe how rough an engine can run. Much of this is avoided by using a block heater. With it on I can turn on the engine, scrape off the windows and I will already have a lot of heat coming out of the defroster. My last 2 were installed for under $125.00 including the part, labor and antifreeze replacement.
7. Make sure your tires have good treads.
and 8. Park in a garage if you can.
Block heaters etc, are not needed in moderate climates at all so we are so of spitting in the wind not knowing any details
I have recently relocated from sunny CA to tri-states n from what I have heard winter here can be very extreme.
Again, assuming N means north, and I know of an area in NY that calls themselves the tri-state area. Perhaps davidq could be more specific.
If temps get below freezing I'm definitely in favor of a block heater.
And is car kept outside, garage makes a huge difference.
I think a block heater is a hidden gem -- at least when it comes to cold weather starts.
If you decide to use Dino, see if your vehicle can stand a lower weight like 0W-30, or 5W-30 for the coldest months. It flows better during those crucial first few minutes.
Sorry I should have been more specific as to where I live. I live in northern NJ.
As to using of synthetic oil, since mine is a new car (close to 1000 miles now), can I switch to synthetic or should I wait?
mrdetailer, where do u get block heater installed? Since I am new in this area and dont know any mechanic I am thinking of going to Toyota dealer.
Thanks again!
Not a bad climate, not that cold, if car not garaged a block heater may be nice but diffciult to plug in at night perhaps.
Yes, synthetic can be put in at any time. Suggest 5W30 if okay in your owners manual or a 0W30 for quicker starts.
It was cold enough last night to have frost on the windows. One car was plugged in. I scraped off the windshield and didn't start the car until I was ready to go. started like a summer morning -- smooth and quiet. in 4 blocks of driving I had good warm heat.
The other car without the heater was started. It ran much rougher for a couple of minutes. My wife drove a couple of miles and it wasn't warm yet.
I use the heater when the temperatures drop below freezing. Try an experiment after you get it installed and I'm confident that you'll hear how much less strained the engine is before warmup.
Btw, my brother in Edmonton, Alberta tells me that the parking meters there have block heater plug in's. Winter's a relative thing. My relative can keep it. LOL
As far as his other recommendations, I think he goes too far with a couple ... especially for a place like New Jersey that has a fairly mild winter. I live in Saratoga, NY and some of those measures, namely the engine block heater and frequent cooling system flushes, are overkill even this far north. I left the factory anti-freeze in my Honda Civic for 6+ years (I tested it every year) and the stuff looked fresh and clean when it was drained. Perhaps it was because of the Redline Water-Wetter I added when the car was brand new? Perhaps the Honda OEM formula is really, really good? Anyway, when I refilled mine, I made it something like 60% antifreeze and 40% distilled water (good advice vidtech) instead of the more usual 50/50 for better cold weather protection. Don't exceed 70% antifreeze.
q45man I hear what you're saying but I don't know how I'd go about changing some of those fluids. My clutch fluid draining procedure is a mystery as is the A/C lubricant ... and my current ride doesn't even have power steering. I think I have the others covered, though. Thanks. >:^)
As far as synthetic motor oil goes, I think it's a good idea and quicker winter starting is just one of its benefits. 5W30 is fine for 95% of North America's population. Save the 0W30 for use at or above the Arctic Circle. I would not switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional oils every season. And, for a relatively mild place like New Jersey, even 5W30 conventional oil should be fine for winter morning starts. I know a genuine tribologist from Northern NJ and he uses conventional 10W30 year round ... but his car might be garaged.
Buying a set of dedicated winter tires in a place like New Jersey is an iffy proposition. I could make a case either way. I'll handle this issue in a separate post.
A garage for your daily driver is a WONDERFUL thing, especially if it's heated. Even with an unheated shelter you don't have to scrape your windshield down with a silly little scraper almost every morning and you don't have to sweep a blanket of snow off your car (hard on the paint) when your neighborhood gets dumped on. It's a real luxury ... one I don't currently have. <:^(
Everyone who sees snow and freezing rain should use a windshield antifreeze rated for -25F or better. As far north as I am, I use the Prestone stuff rated for -34F. This is NOT overkill. This fluid gets diluted when it hits your windshield and begins melting the ice or frost and it can often re-freeze even when the temp is only in the teens. Also, snow/ice melting on the hood or at the base of the windshield can seep into those tiny nozzles and freeze there, completely clogging them. Since I only use about 1 gallon of windshield wiper solution during the core months of the cold season, the $2-3 per gallon cost of the premium stuff is not too much of a hardship.
As for gasoline anti-freeze. I use about 1 bottle of isopropyl alcohol per month in the gas tank during winter. I don't think brand name matters, but I wouldn't use the cheaper methanol anti-freeze if you GAVE it to me. That stuff is corrosive to fuel system components (expensive to fix) and shouldn't even be sold as far as I'm concerned! >:^O
Throughout the year you should pick leaves and other innocent-looking debris out from beneath your hood, trunk lid, gas filler cap area, etc ... whenever you see them as this stuff plugs up drain holes and holds moisture wherever it sits which can cause corrosion over time.
One thing I didn't see anyone comment on was the benefit of cleaning and waxing the painted areas inside your car doors. Then, thoroughly clean the rubber weather stripping all the way around the door and treat it with a good vinyl/rubber dressing like Westley's Black Magic. This will help keep your door from freezing shut when you get a thick layer of freezing rain or a sudden dip in temperature below freezing after a damp day. This isn't essential with a brand new car but it becomes more important as the car ages, dirt and grime accumulates and those rubber seals dry out.
--- Bror Jace
There is no substitute for a good set of winter tires when the winter weather turns messy. Actually, I'd take a front-wheel-drive (FWD) with snow tires over a four-wheel-drive (4WD) with all-seasons. The only place the 4WD has the edge is in the initial take off and climbing hills. They don't steer any better and because of the additional weight, they might not even stop as well. Of course, my pet peeves about 4WD and the people I often see driving them could be a lengthy post all by itself! >;^)
The excellent snow tires I've been running for the past 5 years are Nokian Hakkapelitas:
http://www.nokiantyres.com/index_en.html
Specifically, mine are Hakkapelita NR-10s which have since been replaced in their line-up by the Hakkapelita 1 and these look like they'll soon be replaced by the Hakkapelita 2 which are currently only available in Europe.
My little Honda Civic, with Nokian snow tires on its skinny 13" rims, is a veritable snowmobile. The only problem I have is when the snow gets too deep and then the vehicle's light weight and marginal ground clearance work against it. I'll often go 50mph in 3-4 inches of fresh snow really early in the morning on the interstates. I use the middle lane and have plenty of space in which to gather it up if I start to get out of shape. Not that it ever happens, of course. >;^)
I know a guy with a Mazda 929 who has these same tires with studs who was cruising in similar conditions at 80mph ... before sanity overtook him and he slowed down to a more reasonable rate of speed. This same guy also has a Mercedes M class (their little SUV) and is afraid to take it out on bad days because of its marginal "all-season" tires. LOL!
Some people refuse to purchase separate snow tires because of the added cost involved. Well, this is just silly. The only additional cost involved is the cost of a separate set of rims or the cost paid to a tire shop dismounting and remounting the tires with the change of seasons. That's it. Snow tires themselves DO NOT cost you more. While they are on your car, your summer tires are sitting in a corner of the garage experiencing ZERO wear. They'll last one third to one quarter longer and over the life of the vehicle, you'll find that you have to replace them less often. Another benefit is that if you have nice, pretty alloys on your car, you are doing them a tremendous favor by keeping them away from that abrasive slurry of slush, salt and sand which is all over northern roads in winter. The aftermarket alloys on my Civic Coupe look perfectly brand new despite being over 5 years old. This is because I had my Nokians mounted on the factory painted-steel rims that I no longer used for normal driving.
And the small additional costs associated with running a full set of snows is a bargain compared to the cost required to fix cosmetic damage while slipping and sliding on all season tires. A low speed accident or even a parking lot bump will set you backs hundreds of dollars.
Oh, and make sure you get all FOUR (4) snow tires. Cars and trucks that have snows only on the front are tail-happy and if you put them on the rear, you'll have a hard time accelerating (FWD only), steering and braking.
--- Bror Jace
So, great snow traction or all season with decent snow traction and great handling for 90% of the time.
One of those whatever floats your boat scenarios. .
My Dunlop D60A2 tires in 185/60R14 are excellent, long-lasting tires with an abundance of traction in both dry as well as wet conditions but if you have even an inch of snow, you're just begging for a trip into a ditch. I remember setting out on an snowy/icy morning in early spring and I nearly ended up in a ditch because I had already switched over to my summer tires. The real laugh is that these things are M&S rated!!
Even some 'grandpa' cars like my Dad's 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis are being equipped with wider 60 series tires so I suspect this car will be a handful once the tire rubber is at 50% or less tread. I've warned him to be on the lookout for this but he doesn't listen and he only puts snow tires on the rear. >|^(
I still think that it's better to use tires designed for specific conditions rather than a compromise tire that does nothing especially well.
--- Bror Jace
daveq: You won't need a block heater in northern NJ as the temps don't get cold enough to warrant one. It's rare for the temps to go in the teens. Be prepared for snow though. You won't get as much as upstate NY, but you will get some. With some of the Nor'easters you can get up to a foot or more of snow. I remember hating you guys and the folks over in Westchester Co, NY because you got all the snow, and we got all the rain (I live on LI).
Don't think you'll need snow tires, but double check just in case. BTW we use rock salt and sand here on the roads when it snows. Make sure you protect your car accordingly and wash it often.
Hope this helps, and good luck!!!
Check the simple, obvious things first. Your car may be low on/out of coolant. Even if some remains in your overflow bottle, your radiator might be empty if it was punctured by a stone, etc ...
Also, check to make sure that when you are throwing the switch on your heater, the valve is turning on the hoses connected to the heater core.
--- Bror Jace
I plugged in my Mazda last night just after driving it home from work. It was still warm. When I came out this morning, a good coat of snow was everywhere but the hood. Car started like a summers morning. Very smooth. Didn't even have to push in the gas to start. Heat in 2 blocks. And it the engine was not on when I scrapped the windows. For the 5 dollars a month increase in the electric bill, it's not worth the stress on the engine to me. My mechanic said that most engine wear is incurred during cold startups. The heater minimizes this during winter weather.
Whle not absolutely necessary I feel that it is the best thing you can do to prevent hard startups.
In the Mountain West the all season tires work very well if they have good tread for those who live in the valleys. Snow tires are needed only for the minority who live at higher elevations.
On a different note, you gotta love those 60 degree December days in upstate NY for applying that final coat of winter wax. I think this past weekend was my third "final coat of wax of the year". I used Meguiars' cleaner-free carnauba wax, the final step in their 4-step waxing 'system'. That should last me until March or so when the weather breaks again. >:^)
--- Bror Jace
Tonight's topic is Winterizing your vehicle: What should you do?
http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/newsviews.html
Hope to see you there!
kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
If this happens-pull off the wheel-get a spot or flood lamp, put it in one of those hand held portable lights and put it right next to the drum. Keep an eye on it and it will thaw in a fairly short time if you can do it out of the wind. ALso works on frozen door locks-be really careful you can fry your paint. As to door locks-WD40 works great when the water in them is liquid (WD=Water Displacement formula 40) but after you let it dry out-pour in some Lock Ease which is liquid graphite lock lube.
Another PITA is frozen door seals. Have seen lots of them. To prevent it find some silicone spray, spray the rubber seals and frozen water will not stick as well to the rubber.
Battery selection is crucial. Not only must you get one with the most cold cranking amps but SIZE MATTERS also. What I did was measure the battery compartment and then bought the largest volume battery that would fit into the space. Next to the tiny battery specified for Honda, this thing had at least 50% more lead/acid and the price was the same. Oh did I love talking to the guy at Sam's about this-he said a larger battery would damage my car's electrical system. Put a huge truck battery in my 72 VW van and boy does that puppy spin that little 4 banger. My Honda would start right up in -35F-using 10/30 dino oil.
Here is another one. Came in late one night when a freezing rain was coming down. Said-Duh if I park in a puddle and it freezes-am in deep yoghurt. Well my neighbor parked in a puddle. Froze that Volvo to the ground. What a pita.
At around -35F the hydraulics get real dicey-the hydraulic clutch would engage very slowly-so if you have one-take care not to take off quickly-it can cause lots of clutch slippage.
Also warmitup-got over 200K on that honda-it is still going strong in Mpls with over 275K on it-starts and does not burn oil.
With regard to tires, have found Michelin X-One to be great in snow/rain. The OEM tires on my current Honda were awful in snow/rain-they were the Michelin Energy Tires-easy to break loose in snow or rain-awful tires. IMHO 4 wheel drive offers 2 benefits-more rapid acceleration and better ground clearance over a FWD vehicle with good tires and a nasty tendency to flip after a spin out because they are top heavy.
Last suggestion-slow down and really watch entrance/exit ramps-see lots of crashes on them during snowy weather.
What do you Northerners do to stop the locks from freezing after using a car wash?
there are little battery powered warmer gizmos that kill a couple AAA cells to heat up a metal stick you push into the lock, but they haven't worked for me.
there is also the tire iron or manhole cover to allow you to reach the unlock button and open the door from the inside for those who don't prepare ahead of time
kirstie_h
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Edmunds.com
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I did have de-icer, but stupidly it was in the glove compartment, rather than in the house. Once I got some warm de-icer in the lock, they freed up.
in locking/unlocking my door?
First posting here.
I have to agree with bburton1(#36) on winter tips. Especially about the battery! If it's weak, you'll find out when it's dark and below zero! Been there; done that.
I don't know if this is the correct place for this post, but I'll give it a go. I picked up my 2002 Protege5 last week and am faced with the Northerners never ending question: to rustproof or not to rustproof? My last two vehicles (22 years ownership) were both Ziebarted, and with minimal (what's a car wash!?)care, the bodies stayed in pretty reasonable shape. Have been told that better steel and better factory corrosion protection have made after market products obsolete. Appreciate the thoughts, comments, and experience of others.
Greetings from the frozen tax hell of Minnesota!
/s/ Buzz
IMHO you are far better off to wash the vehicle using those wand washes - they do not reuse their water like some of the stations in SM MN. Take a motel towel along and dry it off fast-if you are careful it won't freeze up if you don't spray the locks full and dry off all the door and window seals before it freezes in that FFP.
Oh the owner of one of the places that used recycled water assured me they filter out all the salt. Oh people like that make my day. Good luck with the balance of the winter.