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Should I get my rotors turned when getting new brake pads?
I was hearing the warning noise from my brakes. I took it in, and they said my pads needed replacing. they also said that i should get my rotors turned since they have heat marks and there is a lip.
i felt the rotors, and they were smooth to the touch w/no warping. turning them would cost $100 because they said the manufacturer (nissan) recommends that the rotors be turned while it's still on the car.
I paid the $, but could i have lived w/the lip on the rotors if the the new pads don't touch it?
i felt the rotors, and they were smooth to the touch w/no warping. turning them would cost $100 because they said the manufacturer (nissan) recommends that the rotors be turned while it's still on the car.
I paid the $, but could i have lived w/the lip on the rotors if the the new pads don't touch it?
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anyways,new pads on a freshly machined surface resulted in quieter performance.
But, if bits of corrosion (the ridge on the end that usually comes off with turning/resurfacing) are left on, often they can prematurely wear the new pads a tad and cause light, squealing noises which can be annoying.
--- Bror Jace
Helped a friend with an older Chrysler product with warped rotors. Simply take the tire off, slide off the rotor and take it to a machine shop and for $8 per rotor turn it. Then replacement rotors were less than $30. Now that is the way rotors should be designed.
Went with a friend to a BMW dealership to get his BMW serviced. Went along with him to the desk and the service writer said well we will have to true up those rotors. I had driven the car and knew the rotors were not warped. Asked him to explain why and that "We always do that" was not an explination-the rotors did not get turned-it's 10 years later and this BMW has yet to get the rotors turned-only damage was to the dealership's bottom line.
Regarding the rusty bits sticking up on the edge of the rotors-take a hammer and gently give it a whack all the way around this edge and this stuff falls off. If you do not-will just grind groves into your new pads.
Think about replacing your own pads-can do mine in less time than it takes to go to a garage and my last set of pads cost around $15 and do not squeak a bit.
I turn rotors only to remove scratches ... and possibly corrosion.
I've done the hammer bit to rotors before. Works well enough.
--- Brior Jace
What are you driving? That hundred doallars,you could of just about paid for new rotors.
If you tell me what year and model, I can tell you what new rotors run.
My rule of thumb is turn the rotors once and replace next brake job.
141445 [ROTOR Front] $65.59 each
WAGNER
BD125129 [Rotor] Frt. $62.34 each
AUTOSPECIALTY
JBR-366 [Brake Rotor] Frt.; Vented; 16.0mm Min. Thickness $46.47 each
18A517 [ROTOR ASSEMBLY] 2.0 liter, Antilock Brakes, Rotor Only., Japan Made VIN E E, VIN E GXE, VIN E SE, VIN E XE Listing $71.82 each
18A219 [ROTOR ASSEMBLY] 1.6 liter, Rotor Only. VIN E E, VIN E GXE, VIN E SE, VIN E XE Listing $62.55 each
IMO if a repair shop or dealer service person tries to get you to turn rotors that are not warped-they are being less than honest-find another repair shop.
. I drive junk, and realize that newer brakes are alot more sophisticated. But my attitude is they're just dirty brakes, not a precison .0001" space shuttle part.
Hmmm,
I hope you aren't driving around my family.
As for your comment about the precision, you evidently have never dealt with any newer vehicles with ABS. They are precision and very finicky about tolerances. On newer Cadilaacs, a flat tire will be enough to throw the tolerances out and trigger the ABS light.
In my professional opinion, there are 2 areas that you should never be a cheapskate on, steering and brakes. Going cheap on either of these systems can create problems. If you want to risk your life, that is fine, but you aren't just risking your life, you are risking the lives of people around you.
I am continually amazed at what people will do on their brakes and the condition I see alot of brake systems.
revker,
The emergency/park brakes will have to be backed off to get the rotor to come off of them, more than likely, there is a ridge and it is catching on the park brake shoes. It takes a tool to back the park brake off.
As for the price of the rotors, usually they are not a whole lot more than the price of having the rotors turned.
Have you been able to fix them yet?
#322 of 330 Check those lug clips, by zr2rando Jan 24, 2002 (04:59 am)
Like CLIFFWILLSON said those lug clips are put on at the factory as an assembly aid and need to be cut off before you can get the rotor off. The design on those rear disk brakes leaves a lot to be desired...The drum portion is nothing like normal drum brakes.
The parking brake caliper is only a partial ring of very thin brake material and your parking brake mechanism only bends it out at the end of the "c"-shape. If it has ever been accidentally left engaged and you drove off (which is easy to do because they don't grab very well) they are toast...literally...and will need to be replaced.
Mine were replaced under warranty, My parking brakes did not work when I picked up the vehicle so I took it to Chev...they were clearly (visibly) overheated and did not function at all. Someone probably didn't realize they were on during one of the first test drives and there they went.
The Chev mechanic told me that the retract mechanism had therefore locked up (overheated in the extended position) and therefore were locked into a groove in that mini-hub...whole rotor assembly had to be replaced...under warranty luckily. If that is the case for you, you may want to check with Chev for any hints how to get the rotor off, There is no opening on the back side to mechanically retract that parking brake caliper..like I said ....design leaves ALOT to be desired.
Possibly may be so expensive you may just have to replace the pads and go with it as is, next time it is up for replacement then replace the whole thing, frequently the rotor cannot be resurfaced twice anyway.
Good luck.
Rando