i'm a little unsure of what to do next. Do i need to notify the other party's ins company that mine was cancelled, even though she was at fault? and what about the rental- its being billed to her ins co, obviously not mine, so will i have to end up paying for that?
There are a few of us wondering how it came to pass you didn't have Liability Insurance and you didn't know you were without it.
Were you non renewed? (1) fail to pay premium 2 change of address with no forwarding address 3 thought somebody else was paying your bills
First you got a Renewal Notice Then you got a Billing for Renewal Then you got a Late Notice Then you got a Cancellation Notice for Non Pay Didn't your lienholder notify you too?
How in this world could you not realize you had not any coverage? :mad:
Need some help. My daughter was in a serious auto accident last week on her way home from school and is extremely lucky to be alive. She came out unscathed but her car is totaled. The person who caused the accident was handed 3-5 citations so it was a cut and dry case and their insurance (state farm) has accepted responsibilty.
This is the first accident we have ever had to deal with and are unclear of how to proceed. The car was a 2004 Volkswagen Golf GL in pristine condition with only 17,000 miles. It was mint condition and she only had it for like 6 months. She is very torn up and stressed about it and she is still so afraid of driving on the interstate that she either has to fine a ride home or we have to drive 6 hours to go get her. It was her ideal car and the car she still wants. You know how 18 yr. old girls can be with their little cars.
I know the insurance company doesn't care about how stressed she is about it, how torn up she is or how scared she is to drive, but I do. I have been told they will likey offer around $14,000 for the car to us, which is the NADA value. While that is one value, I am getting different value from Kelly Blue Book, which is closer to $16,000. And while there are used Golfs that are around that price, I am finding used Volkswagens with more mileage ranging from $15,000 to $16,000.
I certainly don't want to get more than I deserve, but I do want her to get as much as she deserves so we can replace her car and make her happy. The insurance company may not care about her emotional and mental health, but I sure do. Is the NADA value just what I have to take or is this worth pushing?
Sorry for the long post, but she is our only kid and we are kind of lost here and don't want to be taken advantage of.
I'm with Eupohonium on this one -- was your policy cancelled, did it expire, or were you non-renewed? While these are all a little different, the end result I guess is pretty much the same.
Depending on which state you reside in, this may be a huge deal, it may be no big deal at all. If it were my state, as you are not at fault, whether you are insured or not only matters to the police. You should still be able to collect from the other party's carrier -- that is assuming the tow truck driver was correct in his accident reconstruction.
You really don't need to tell the other insurance company this. And they should continue to provide payment to the rental car company as well for the rental. However, if you were injured and you were in my state this may cause some issues an you would indeed need to tell the other company this -- so really, we need to know where the accident occurred.
They will, however, not pay for any insurance on the rental, nor be liable for any damages you incurr while in the rental, nor any tickets for being uninsured.
The other biggie you'll have to deal with now is GREATLY increased rates. You have a lapse in your history now and that means you pay big bucks -- but I'm sure you know that by now (you have obtained insurance, correct?)
Hi volntitan, as qbrozen mentioned, wait til you get an actual offer (don't agree to it), then come back and let us know. There are several members here who kindly share their expertise who may be able to offer you advice (whether the deal is fair or not, next steps) after you've heard the offer.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
The last time I saw a NADA or KBB, the front of the book stated, "GUIDE", not Gospel.
Consider your cars value by not only it's qualities, but the location and time of the crash. Different locations are different marketing areas & it would be wise to discern what your market dictates. Pricing has three sections: Asked for price Hoped for price Sold for price
Considering all facets of the crash and the love and concern you relate to your only child, perhaps a larger & more protective vehicle should be in her future. Only cats have 9 lives.
As you've seen, there is significant variation in determining price. The trick is to convince the insurance company as to what it will cost to replace the Golf with a similar vehicle.
Since low mileage drives value up by a significant amount, suggest there are several resources to tap in addition to consulting value guides. Go to a couple of VW dealers and find out how much you would have to pay to buy the same car from them now. In fact, since she only had it for six months, a slight downward adjustment from her purchase price would be a good measure of its worth. Also, monitor recent sales (and bids, not asking prices) on ebay.
Don't forget to get sales tax too when the claim is settled.
I had asked the claims aduster if she had any idea of what the price would be around because my daughter was going to be home during Thanksgiving and that way we could "shop". She said that State Farm uses NADA. She asked miles and stuff and said according to NADA it would be around $14,050. Obviously that isn't the official offer and she made sure to mention that. We got the car from a friend of my fathers who wholesales luxury cars and he just happened to have a "cheap" car he was trying to get rid of, so we got it REAL cheap. I was going to wait for the offer, but it sounds like it can be negotiated. We are going to look at cars, including VW, so hopefully I can talk one of the sales guys to write up an appraisal for us.
I have tried to talk her into a bigger vehicle, but she doesn't really feel comfortable in bigger cars. And to be honest, I don't know if we can afford one of the newer big cars that would have safety features, mileage and reliability that a new smaller car like the Rabbit or Fit would have. Any suggestions would be great!!
Well, my 16 year old daughter (against my better judgment) has a VW New Beetle so I understand the situation there.
While VWs are not exactly known for their reliability, the late model ones aren't too bad. I'd be more concerned about getting something with all of the safety gear (including head curtain bags and stability control) than size. Since it appears that you'll make some money on this, suggest looking at new stuff in 18K price range. A guy I work with just bought a decked out '07 Sonata (21K sticker) for 17.5K. There's much to choose from in the high teens although I'm not sure how widely available stability control is at this price point.
with all these great responses, I can take off til next June and no one will notice my absence...I agree with all these answers, and I, too, would like to know how kw managed to be w/o car insurance and not even know it...could there be a stinking fish somewhere in this picture???...:):):):):)
One of the pages in my book is when a guy was rearended and the at fault driver threatened to turn in the innocent for not having insurance. The uninsured, not at fault driver, paid to fix the at fault's truck in exchange for the at fault's signature on a Release to the Financial Responsibility Division, Dept. of Licenses.
That took, out of jeopardy, the innocent's license revocation and the following need to file an SR 22 for three years. It works that way in WA because it is a violation of the RCW to be INVOLVED in an accident without financial responsibility. (The code doesn't care who is at fault)
Well, we went ahead and got her a new car. Looked at Civic, Subaru, Nissan Versa, Toyota Yaris...all the usuals. Ended up with the new 2007 VW Rabbit. Cute car, incredible to drive and offers more safety features than any car in it's class. Only one to offer Electronic Stab. Control (which it has). Feels very solid...much more than the others. 4 yr/50,000 miles so I feel pretty comfortable about it's reliability. We were going to wait, but they are tough to find right now. It was the only automatic in Nashville. Was around $17,500 and she is THRILLED...
Hi, I have been trying to get answers to the following questions all over the internet and thought why not post this here on carspace.com and figured if someone could help me out with them. Please help.
1) I just got into a car accident, and I asked the other driver if he wanted to keep it out of the insurance company and I would repair his car, could that be held against me? (note: this was not said in front of the police. Also, I was not breathalyzed or blood tested or taking to the precinct, or given a summons or anything like that. I am still waiting for the police report since this happened on thanksgiving) 2) This is my second accident this year. First was in January and the second one as I said was just yesterday, could my insurance company drop me from the insurance because of these two accidents? I have been with them for almost 10 years and these were my first 2 accidents in 7 years, my last accident (before these) was in 1999.
Please advise, if my company (GEICO) can drop me. I live in NY, am single and am 30 years old. Any information you provide will be very helpful. Thanks.
Sardarji. PS I have asked this question in another forum I hope you guys can help as well. Thanks.
If the other car was NOT occupied, there isn't much risk in paying for the Property Damage, but if not, let GEICO know about the crash so as to not jeopardize their handling of any possible Bodily Injury Claim.
You will not be dropped mid term, but may be Non Renewed at the annual date of your policy. The answer really depends on more facts of each crash, your facts, and your credit rating.
I was recently rearended. The person told me to get any estimate I wanted, that she would pay the bill. I got two estimates: One was for $2400 and the other is for $2800. My car will be in the shop for at least a week. I gave the person the $2800 estimate and she gave me a check. Is it now unethical to go to the $2400 repair place?
I'm justifying it because she didn't offer to pay for a rental car and this is really going to put my wife and I out with only one car. Plus the damage devalued my car. What would you do?
with thebigal...since you would ordinarily be entitled to a rental vehicle, use the $400 toward that, any left over give to the other party, which, I think, is repeating what thebigal said...:):):):):)
Our 2005 Volvo S80 sustained $20-$22K damage after being broadsided by someone who blew a red light.(Accident report states driver ran a red light) Fortunately no one was hurt. This seems very close to a total loss given the significant damage to the uni-body frame. NADA book is approx $30-$32K. We elected to let our insurance co. handle this and go after their co. I'm concerned this car will never be "right" but, I'm not anxious to make up the difference to buy a new car since we'd need to pony-up an additional $10-$15G to replace it. Any suggestoins, advice or options are very much appreciated
Situations such as this are a no-brainer to me. If you fix the car, it will forever be worth less than one that has never been damaged. And your concern that it might never be right is not misplaced.
While it's never pleasant to have to pull money out of the sock unexpectedly, your best option here is for the insurance to total the vehicle and for you to get something else.
Perhaps you can take some comfort from the fact that the vehicle performed as designed in preventing injury.
Oh yes, entirely as designed. Which is why I have owned Volvos for over 30 years. OTOH, was told estimate must exceed 75% of value in order to be declared a total loss. This estimate is only about 70% so, can I insist it be totalled and have my co. get the refund from the at-fault co?
Well, I'm not sure if this is good news or not, but I think that NADA price is not even close to reality.
Is this a T6? 2.5T? AWD? How many miles?
Retail on a T6 with low miles (20k) is only around $26k (KBB private party, which is often pretty close to retail in the real world). And a brand new '06 2.5t awd through carsdirect is only $31,800.
So, yeah, I think its totalled.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Car was torn-down for ins estimate. Repairs $20K, doesn't meet 75% to total out. Will need to make legal claim w/at-fault co's for dimished value. This seems to be my only option :mad:
you are at the mercy of the insurance company's percentage standard regardless of your feelings or opinions...
If your vehicle damage exceeds their percentage for totaling, 75/80/85%, whatever they choose for their decisions, you either have a total or not...maybe there is flexibility if the car is within, say, $500-1000 of that figure, but if they use 85% and your damages are 70%, you will get your repaired car back to "love, honor, cherish and obey 'til sale do you part"...:):):):):)
I have question that's bugging me, hoping someone here can give me some advice, last October I was involved in an accident. (Driver taking a left turn in an unprotected left turn lane didn't see me coming through the intersection, the tri light was lighted yellow and I certainly didn't have the space to stop, the police report mentioned one witness who was not present when the police arrived, and it is mentioned in the report that officers couldn't contact him. I never saw him) When I filled out the paperwork for my insurance company, I opted to not allow them to disclose the limits of my coverage because I felt it wouldn't be necessary as he was at fault, but recently I received some correspondance from my insurance company stating that basically his company was demanding 21,000$ in damages (property), which exceeds my 5,000$ damage coverage (only by a little ) and now my company is asking that I lift the limit on disclosing coverage limits as they are trying to settle with the other company for an amount that is within my coverage. What puzzles me is that it seems my company seems completly sure that I am at fault for the incident, (It was my impression that people taking left turns in unprotected left turn zones have the responsibility to make sure there is no oncoming traffic before taking the turn) they have even suggested that should I receive a Summons and Complaint, that I should consider hiring my own legal counsel to "protect my assets at my expense". So I guess my question is, would lifting that limit make it easier for me, or my insurer? and are insurance companies allowed to settle with other companies in excess of coverage limits and then force the driver (me) to pay whatever goes over the coverage (in this case 5,000$) without a proper trial in a court where they must prove I am responsible for the incident?
where I practice, the law states that insurance companies, when properly requested, are REQUIRED to disclose your limits of liability...this is to avoid having to file an expensive lawsuit and clog the courts just to find out how much insurance you have...
Bear in mind, your limits do not alter how much a case is worth at the maximum...
If someone has $100K limits, and they injure someone and they have only $1,500.00 in meds, that does not make the case worth $100K, it is still only worth between $3,000.00 and $5,000.00, regardless of the limits of $100,000.00.
Where it does help is the cases where the medicals are $25,000...then there is two other possibilities for settlement when the limits of liability are known...
1. If the at-fault party only has $25K limits, which would only cover medical bills (that's why I harp on having maximum medpay or PIP coverage), then the victim should notify their carrier for a UM claim, assuming they follow my reco to have sufficient UM...they always have the option of suing, but if someone has no assets, a judgment against a person with no assets is a waste of time...
2. If the at-fault party has $100K limits, and you know this, then a victim with $25K in meds has a good chance of settling the case for a fair amount, since everybody knows there is enough insurance coverage to pay...by withholding the info, IMO, you may only force the other party to sue you, regardless of who is at fault, since you seem to write that fault is in dispute...
Remember, a case with small med bills is not worth $100K just because someone has $100K in ins coverage...a lawyer in your state can tell you whether or not you should disclose your limits, but, here in GA, disclosure is mandatory and I believe it is a good thing to do so...YMMV
Questions for you: Where, on the other car, did you crash? If you hit his Right rear, some would opin he established equity in the intersection first and you were going too fast to avoid the crash. Entering on a Yellow - most folks accelerate through to avoid being under the Red light. Are you in a No Fault state, Comparative Negligence state, or an At Fault State? In a Comparative Negligence state, I understand how your insurance company may consider you to be up to 75% at fault.
If there is an excess amount due over what you carry for Liability, you have the option of hiring separate counsel to defend for the excess award or judgement. Your answers to the above questions would be appreciated for better and more specific advice.
We made contact in the front, my bumper to his right side engine compartment at an angle with the point of impact being a little in front of the wheel, and I was traveling on the number 2 lane of a 4 lane street (8 lanes total counting both directions). As to the No fault / Comparative Negligence, I'm really not sure what category California falls under, but that is where this incident occurred.
I don’t seem to have a lot of luck with my vehicle. When I first got it in 2005, someone broke into my car, causing $1,300 of damage. 3 Months ago, my car got side swiped while parked on the street (of course, I don’t know who did that) and just now I backed out into a concrete block (which is actually my fault for a change!).
Since I didn’t report the side swipe damage (basically scratches on my alloy wheel, my rear door and a dent/scratches in my front door), I’m hoping to combine both damages in one claim (since the most recent damage is also on the left side).
My question is this: when I submit the claim, should I be honest and mention both incidents, should I only mention the latest incident or should I try to make it into a ‘no fault’ incident (not sure how I can get away with that)?
Keep it simple - check your coverage and disclose the separate incidents so the insurance company can pay the claim(s) as appropriate.
You might be surprised at what your policy covers. My son's car was subjected to a hit and run in a parking lot over the summer. In October we had a bad hail storm. I finally looked at his policy (which I had erroneously assumed has liability coverage only). It turns out that he'll collect for the hail damage (in excess of $2000) and the hit-skip might be covered as well.
Caveat: depending on other factors (e.g., extent of damage and your driving record) you might be well advised to pay for the repairs out of pocket and not file any claim at all.
Despite how easy it looks to lie to the insurance company, I believe it always pays to tell it straight, even if it costs you money that you may not have paid if you had lied...
Character is what becomes visible when no one is looking...
And, as much as we fight with ins companies, lying is still wrong, no matter how you slice it...tell 'em what happened and deal with it truthfully...
also, cccompson's idea has validity, too...if the damages are simply not too much, there is nothing wrong with paying out of pocket so as not to risk raising your premiums...
Always play it straight, as I am assuming that is what you would teach your children...it still applies even after you grow up...:):):):):)
End of moralistic rant...
Seriously, I am still amazed at the number of potential clients who expect me to lie for them in my representation...so, I look at them and say, "So, you detest unethical attorneys who lie and cheat for their clients, but as long as I lie and cheat for YOUR case, that's OK because, well, it's for YOU..."
Then I show them the door, 'cuz the client will never be satisfied with anything I do, and I will NEVER put my trust and faith in anything that client says...
As I like to affirm, "My services are for sale, but my soul is not."
The estimate is about $2,000-$3,000 for the damage ($500 ded), and the body shop told me they would repair the side swipe dent for free. The alloy wheel damage is pretty much near the 'new damage' so that shouldn't cause any problems with the insurance.
Considering the damage, I guess I should go through my insurance. My record is clean: my wife recently got a 0 point violation though
The side swipe won't count as an "at fault" claim, but the concrete block will. What's the damage from the concrete block--only on the bumper? Replacing the bumper may cost less than your deductible.
Talk to your agent. Depending on what they say, I'd probably pay for the concrete block damage out of pocket and turn in the not-at-fault portion. Edit--just saw your follow-up post that slipped in. You might talk to your agent about how the at-fault claim will affect your rates, and how long it will affect them.
I was in a car accident & the other driver was at fault. He was 17, no DL, & driving a car that his mother had just financed 5 days earlier at a tote the note car lot. The car is in her name. The officer at the scene said that the boy said there was no insurance. I also had no insurance. I was told by someone that knows the mother of the driver that she does have insurance. My question "is there any way of finding out if there was insurance on the car?". I appreciate any advice anyone may have. Thank You.
We were in a auto wreck last night. We were stopped at a red light and someone hit us from behind and they never hit the brakes, then we were knocked into the car in front of us. We were in a 2006 Envoy with only 9000 miles, perfect condition. Nobody was injured, but my mothers back and hip are hurting(she has had surgery on both in the last 5 yrs. The envoy looked like the frame was bent and from looking at the damange on front and back its 20,000 or more in damages. As far as we know all parties are insured. What can we expect if they total our car out? Is the party involved responsible for getting us a new vehicle? We had two small children in car seats and the GA state patrol told us that we could use them to get the kids home but after that we couldn't use them again. Is the party that hit us responsible for buying us new car seats? We had just put $35 in gas in are they responsible for that too? Any help anyone can give us would be greatly appreciated.
1) You will be paid what it is worth (which may be much different than what you owe on it) plus sales tax.
2) No
3) Yes
4) You're kidding about the gas, right? With your mom hurt and 20K in damages a week before Christmas you should have enough to worry about. If not, perhaps you can siphon it into the rental car the insurance company will be providing.
I was in an accident in WA - an SUV pulled a left turn at an intersection (we both had green) and I slowed to avoid her and the trailing S15 pickup then followed her out. No chance to avoid, I hit headon at 40mph to her passenger forward corner. No major injuries. My car (2005 Saab 92X Aero = rebadged and spiffed-up WRX wagon) scrunched up back to engine, fenders crinkled, windshield big-timed cracked, both airbags deployed. Other driver took responsibility, police report and a witness confirms. Other insurance (State Farm) called that night affirming responsibility and to make arrangements.
Fairly unique low-production car, no longer made, went national for comps and at 30K miles found asking prices $16K-19K. Car towed to repair shop, they are taking it apart, expect an estimate this week.
I want my car back but I understand that I walked away because of the passive crumple zone, belts and airbags and I am not confident that the same protection will be there next time after a repair.
I'm thinking that a) it's declared a total and I get a check (preferred) OR b) repaired and I turn and trade-in or sell.
1. What can I do legally and morally to push towards a total? 2. I was seen at an Army hospital the next day - sprained wrist, heavily bruised leg but no broken bones. Worked three half days due to being so sore. Seen a day later at chiropractor for sore back and legs - will need some work for several weeks. What are the personal injury implications? 3. Should I retain an attorney? 4. Diminished value claim - what supporting data is needed and how do I file?
My reply was first issued where you first posed your question, but at the risk of redundancy, here it is again.
The 17 year old is a minor and as such can not own chattel property. The legal owner would have to be his parent or guardian. Most likely his mother's name is on the title.
If she actually and really has auto liability insurance she can take advantage of the 30 day automatic coverage extension clause which provides the same coverages on newly acquired cars as she has on her car and in this case it is at least Liability. As for her son's car, if she has a car with full coverage, then her son's car would, for 30 days from purchase date have full coverage.
Simply visit the mother and ask if her name is on the title of the newly acquired vehicle and who is her insurance company, policy number, & expiration date.
Remember to pro rate the license plate fee. The unearned balance could amount to more than the gas in the tank!
If you recently paid fifty cents to air up your tires, you could claim 80% of that expense and the windshield washer fluid should be one of your cost pro rated factors too.
Also, in TN the state will probably require proof of insurance from BOTH drivers. It is the law in TN, but usually not enforced until the issue comes up. Since the vehicle was bought at a BHPH dealer, they carry the note and may not be as persistent about forcing buyers to obtain and maintain insurance. IF you have insurance and the other driver does not, you can probably force the issue.
I think you said you had no insurance either. Both of you may have to go into the state insurance pool, SR-22, or post a $15,000 cash bond (if I remember correctly).
Comments
Were you non renewed?
(1) fail to pay premium
2 change of address with no forwarding address
3 thought somebody else was paying your bills
First you got a Renewal Notice
Then you got a Billing for Renewal
Then you got a Late Notice
Then you got a Cancellation Notice for Non Pay
Didn't your lienholder notify you too?
How in this world could you not realize you had not any coverage? :mad:
This is the first accident we have ever had to deal with and are unclear of how to proceed. The car was a 2004 Volkswagen Golf GL in pristine condition with only 17,000 miles. It was mint condition and she only had it for like 6 months. She is very torn up and stressed about it and she is still so afraid of driving on the interstate that she either has to fine a ride home or we have to drive 6 hours to go get her. It was her ideal car and the car she still wants. You know how 18 yr. old girls can be with their little cars.
I know the insurance company doesn't care about how stressed she is about it, how torn up she is or how scared she is to drive, but I do. I have been told they will likey offer around $14,000 for the car to us, which is the NADA value. While that is one value, I am getting different value from Kelly Blue Book, which is closer to $16,000. And while there are used Golfs that are around that price, I am finding used Volkswagens with more mileage ranging from $15,000 to $16,000.
I certainly don't want to get more than I deserve, but I do want her to get as much as she deserves so we can replace her car and make her happy. The insurance company may not care about her emotional and mental health, but I sure do. Is the NADA value just what I have to take or is this worth pushing?
Sorry for the long post, but she is our only kid and we are kind of lost here and don't want to be taken advantage of.
Thanks!!!!
Depending on which state you reside in, this may be a huge deal, it may be no big deal at all. If it were my state, as you are not at fault, whether you are insured or not only matters to the police. You should still be able to collect from the other party's carrier -- that is assuming the tow truck driver was correct in his accident reconstruction.
You really don't need to tell the other insurance company this. And they should continue to provide payment to the rental car company as well for the rental. However, if you were injured and you were in my state this may cause some issues an you would indeed need to tell the other company this -- so really, we need to know where the accident occurred.
They will, however, not pay for any insurance on the rental, nor be liable for any damages you incurr while in the rental, nor any tickets for being uninsured.
The other biggie you'll have to deal with now is GREATLY increased rates. You have a lapse in your history now and that means you pay big bucks -- but I'm sure you know that by now (you have obtained insurance, correct?)
And who told you this? Someone from the insurance company?
Why deal with possibilities? Find out what they are actually giving you before pulling out all the stops.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
as qbrozen mentioned, wait til you get an actual offer (don't agree to it), then come back and let us know. There are several members here who kindly share their expertise who may be able to offer you advice (whether the deal is fair or not, next steps) after you've heard the offer.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Consider your cars value by not only it's qualities, but the location and time of the crash. Different locations are different marketing areas & it would be wise to discern what your market dictates. Pricing has three sections:
Asked for price
Hoped for price
Sold for price
Considering all facets of the crash and the love and concern you relate to your only child, perhaps a larger & more protective vehicle should be in her future. Only cats have 9 lives.
Since low mileage drives value up by a significant amount, suggest there are several resources to tap in addition to consulting value guides. Go to a couple of VW dealers and find out how much you would have to pay to buy the same car from them now. In fact, since she only had it for six months, a slight downward adjustment from her purchase price would be a good measure of its worth. Also, monitor recent sales (and bids, not asking prices) on ebay.
Don't forget to get sales tax too when the claim is settled.
I have tried to talk her into a bigger vehicle, but she doesn't really feel comfortable in bigger cars. And to be honest, I don't know if we can afford one of the newer big cars that would have safety features, mileage and reliability that a new smaller car like the Rabbit or Fit would have. Any suggestions would be great!!
While VWs are not exactly known for their reliability, the late model ones aren't too bad. I'd be more concerned about getting something with all of the safety gear (including head curtain bags and stability control) than size. Since it appears that you'll make some money on this, suggest looking at new stuff in 18K price range. A guy I work with just bought a decked out '07 Sonata (21K sticker) for 17.5K. There's much to choose from in the high teens although I'm not sure how widely available stability control is at this price point.
One of the pages in my book is when a guy was rearended and the at fault driver threatened to turn in the innocent for not having insurance. The uninsured, not at fault driver, paid to fix the at fault's truck in exchange for the at fault's signature on a Release to the Financial Responsibility Division, Dept. of Licenses.
That took, out of jeopardy, the innocent's license revocation and the following need to file an SR 22 for three years. It works that way in WA because it is a violation of the RCW to be INVOLVED in an accident without financial responsibility. (The code doesn't care who is at fault)
I have been trying to get answers to the following questions all over the internet and thought why not post this here on carspace.com and figured if someone could help me out with them. Please help.
1) I just got into a car accident, and I asked the other driver if he wanted to keep it out of the insurance company and I would repair his car, could that be held against me? (note: this was not said in front of the police. Also, I was not breathalyzed or blood tested or taking to the precinct, or given a summons or anything like that. I am still waiting for the police report since this happened on thanksgiving)
2) This is my second accident this year. First was in January and the second one as I said was just yesterday, could my insurance company drop me from the insurance because of these two accidents? I have been with them for almost 10 years and these were my first 2 accidents in 7 years, my last accident (before these) was in 1999.
Please advise, if my company (GEICO) can drop me. I live in NY, am single and am 30 years old. Any information you provide will be very helpful. Thanks.
Sardarji.
PS I have asked this question in another forum I hope you guys can help as well. Thanks.
You will not be dropped mid term, but may be Non Renewed at the annual date of your policy. The answer really depends on more facts of each crash, your facts, and your credit rating.
I'm justifying it because she didn't offer to pay for a rental car and this is really going to put my wife and I out with only one car. Plus the damage devalued my car. What would you do?
This seems very close to a total loss given the significant damage to the uni-body frame. NADA book is approx $30-$32K. We elected to let our insurance co. handle this and go after their co.
I'm concerned this car will never be "right" but, I'm not anxious to make up the difference to buy a new car since we'd need to pony-up an additional $10-$15G to replace it.
Any suggestoins, advice or options are very much appreciated
While it's never pleasant to have to pull money out of the sock unexpectedly, your best option here is for the insurance to total the vehicle and for you to get something else.
Perhaps you can take some comfort from the fact that the vehicle performed as designed in preventing injury.
OTOH, was told estimate must exceed 75% of value in order to be declared a total loss. This estimate is only about 70% so, can I insist it be totalled and have my co. get the refund from the at-fault co?
Is this a T6? 2.5T? AWD? How many miles?
Retail on a T6 with low miles (20k) is only around $26k (KBB private party, which is often pretty close to retail in the real world). And a brand new '06 2.5t awd through carsdirect is only $31,800.
So, yeah, I think its totalled.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If your vehicle damage exceeds their percentage for totaling, 75/80/85%, whatever they choose for their decisions, you either have a total or not...maybe there is flexibility if the car is within, say, $500-1000 of that figure, but if they use 85% and your damages are 70%, you will get your repaired car back to "love, honor, cherish and obey 'til sale do you part"...:):):):):)
Precisely.
At least the repair shop is certified for all high-end brands and is regarded as the best place available.
We'll see :confuse:
(Driver taking a left turn in an unprotected left turn lane didn't see me coming through the intersection, the tri light was lighted yellow and I certainly didn't have the space to stop, the police report mentioned one witness who was not present when the police arrived, and it is mentioned in the report that officers couldn't contact him. I never saw him)
When I filled out the paperwork for my insurance company, I opted to not allow them to disclose the limits of my coverage because I felt it wouldn't be necessary as he was at fault, but recently I received some correspondance from my insurance company stating that basically his company was demanding 21,000$ in damages (property), which exceeds my 5,000$ damage coverage (only by a little
Bear in mind, your limits do not alter how much a case is worth at the maximum...
If someone has $100K limits, and they injure someone and they have only $1,500.00 in meds, that does not make the case worth $100K, it is still only worth between $3,000.00 and $5,000.00, regardless of the limits of $100,000.00.
Where it does help is the cases where the medicals are $25,000...then there is two other possibilities for settlement when the limits of liability are known...
1. If the at-fault party only has $25K limits, which would only cover medical bills (that's why I harp on having maximum medpay or PIP coverage), then the victim should notify their carrier for a UM claim, assuming they follow my reco to have sufficient UM...they always have the option of suing, but if someone has no assets, a judgment against a person with no assets is a waste of time...
2. If the at-fault party has $100K limits, and you know this, then a victim with $25K in meds has a good chance of settling the case for a fair amount, since everybody knows there is enough insurance coverage to pay...by withholding the info, IMO, you may only force the other party to sue you, regardless of who is at fault, since you seem to write that fault is in dispute...
Remember, a case with small med bills is not worth $100K just because someone has $100K in ins coverage...a lawyer in your state can tell you whether or not you should disclose your limits, but, here in GA, disclosure is mandatory and I believe it is a good thing to do so...YMMV
If you hit his Right rear, some would opin he established equity in the intersection first and you were going too fast to avoid the crash. Entering on a Yellow - most folks accelerate through to avoid being under the Red light.
Are you in a No Fault state, Comparative Negligence state, or an At Fault State? In a Comparative Negligence state, I understand how your insurance company may consider you to be up to 75% at fault.
If there is an excess amount due over what you carry for Liability, you have the option of hiring separate counsel to defend for the excess award or judgement. Your answers to the above questions would be appreciated for better and more specific advice.
As to the No fault / Comparative Negligence, I'm really not sure what category California falls under, but that is where this incident occurred.
Thanks for the help!
Since I didn’t report the side swipe damage (basically scratches on my alloy wheel, my rear door and a dent/scratches in my front door), I’m hoping to combine both damages in one claim (since the most recent damage is also on the left side).
My question is this: when I submit the claim, should I be honest and mention both incidents, should I only mention the latest incident or should I try to make it into a ‘no fault’ incident (not sure how I can get away with that)?
Thanks so much!
You might be surprised at what your policy covers. My son's car was subjected to a hit and run in a parking lot over the summer. In October we had a bad hail storm. I finally looked at his policy (which I had erroneously assumed has liability coverage only). It turns out that he'll collect for the hail damage (in excess of $2000) and the hit-skip might be covered as well.
Caveat: depending on other factors (e.g., extent of damage and your driving record) you might be well advised to pay for the repairs out of pocket and not file any claim at all.
Character is what becomes visible when no one is looking...
And, as much as we fight with ins companies, lying is still wrong, no matter how you slice it...tell 'em what happened and deal with it truthfully...
also, cccompson's idea has validity, too...if the damages are simply not too much, there is nothing wrong with paying out of pocket so as not to risk raising your premiums...
Always play it straight, as I am assuming that is what you would teach your children...it still applies even after you grow up...:):):):):)
End of moralistic rant...
Seriously, I am still amazed at the number of potential clients who expect me to lie for them in my representation...so, I look at them and say, "So, you detest unethical attorneys who lie and cheat for their clients, but as long as I lie and cheat for YOUR case, that's OK because, well, it's for YOU..."
Then I show them the door, 'cuz the client will never be satisfied with anything I do, and I will NEVER put my trust and faith in anything that client says...
As I like to affirm, "My services are for sale, but my soul is not."
I sleep well at night, too...:):):):):)
Considering the damage, I guess I should go through my insurance. My record is clean: my wife recently got a 0 point violation though
Talk to your agent. Depending on what they say, I'd probably pay for the concrete block damage out of pocket and turn in the not-at-fault portion. Edit--just saw your follow-up post that slipped in. You might talk to your agent about how the at-fault claim will affect your rates, and how long it will affect them.
1) You will be paid what it is worth (which may be much different than what you owe on it) plus sales tax.
2) No
3) Yes
4) You're kidding about the gas, right? With your mom hurt and 20K in damages a week before Christmas you should have enough to worry about. If not, perhaps you can siphon it into the rental car the insurance company will be providing.
(State Farm) called that night affirming responsibility and to make arrangements.
Fairly unique low-production car, no longer made, went national for comps and at 30K miles found asking prices $16K-19K. Car towed to repair shop, they are taking it apart, expect an estimate this week.
I want my car back but I understand that I walked away because of the passive crumple zone, belts and airbags and I am not confident that the same protection will be there next time after a repair.
I'm thinking that a) it's declared a total and I get a check (preferred) OR b) repaired and I turn and trade-in or sell.
1. What can I do legally and morally to push towards a total?
2. I was seen at an Army hospital the next day - sprained wrist, heavily bruised leg but no broken bones. Worked three half days due to being so sore. Seen a day later at chiropractor for sore back and legs - will need some work for several weeks. What are the personal injury implications?
3. Should I retain an attorney?
4. Diminished value claim - what supporting data is needed and how do I file?
Thanks for the help!
2) See #3
3) Yes (and do it now)
4) This will be an issue only if the repair estimate puts you close to a total. Pushing the issue then may tip the scales your way.
The problem is that everybody knows that diminished value is a very real issue - insurance companies simply don't want to pay for it.
If no on both counts, then you should start praying the truck isn't totalled.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The 17 year old is a minor and as such can not own chattel property. The legal owner would have to be his parent or guardian. Most likely his mother's name is on the title.
If she actually and really has auto liability insurance she can take advantage of the 30 day automatic coverage extension clause which provides the same coverages on newly acquired cars as she has on her car and in this case it is at least Liability. As for her son's car, if she has a car with full coverage, then her son's car would, for 30 days from purchase date have full coverage.
Simply visit the mother and ask if her name is on the title of the newly acquired vehicle and who is her insurance company, policy number, & expiration date.
If you recently paid fifty cents to air up your tires, you could claim 80% of that expense and the windshield washer fluid should be one of your cost pro rated factors too.
I think you said you had no insurance either. Both of you may have to go into the state insurance pool, SR-22, or post a $15,000 cash bond (if I remember correctly).