Musty, horrid, foul smell from A/C
Can be found at:
http://www.airsept.com/eed.html
Has anyone out there used a UV light mounted within the A/C evaporator plenum to prevent the growth of mold and mildew?
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
So the only answer for our cars, really, is to find a way to thoroughly dry out the A/C evaporator (sponge) during the times when the vehicle is not in use.
Yes?
It's important to keep the outside air open as much as possible when running A/C and to prevent excess condensation, turn the compressor "off" and leave the fan "on" for the last 3-5 minutes of your trip.
--- Bror Jace
But I would advise those that have garages to leave the sunroof and windows open in the garage to let the car dry out. That worked for me back in 93 when I first came to realize why my LS400 windshield was fogging up on cold mornings about five miles from home.
The dealer deodorized it twice (no help) then said they had to pull the dash and replace the evaporator. But they later copped out as he tech. couldnt duplicate my concern. I went to another dealer who said they are well aware of the problem ... they had a service bulliten or something on it ... and they would need to replace the evaporator. They too ended up not replacing that (they told me that didnt apply to my truck) but installed what the service writer described as a "reverse fan" to prevent the smell's return. I told him the smell was not the big issue but whatever was causing it, is making me sick. I asked him if this would solve that problem and prevent that cause from returning. He was very evasive and just kept telling me that they did the repair that Ford recommends.
When I got my truck back, there was a pre-printed flyer inside stating: "A module has been added to turn on the blower motor for two minutes after your vehicle has been parked for 45 minutes. This will help prevent the return of odors from the AC system."
So far no odor, but I still get very sick whenever I run the blower and/or AC. Is the dealer being straight, or is this being used as a "mask" for a deeper probem? Thanks
My suggestion. Turn the blower up to MAX, make sure the system is NOT in recirculate, open all of the windows so the blower has no back-pressure.
After its run this way for about ten to fifteen minutes start spraying a can of lysol into the intake ducts most usually at the bottom of the windshield. Do not emplty the can all in one burst use about five each about ten minutes apart.
Let the blower run this way for at least 30 minutes after the lysol is exhausted.
If you have an A/C air filter then remove it before the procedure.
Most A/C evaporators these days are very dense and complex for two reasons, the new R-134 refrigerant is now as efficient and some idiot has decided to continue the use of the A/C to prevent and remove windshield condensation below 50F where it efficiency for this purpose is extremely questionable.
In my Lexus vehicles I remove the A/C compressor clutch relay in the wintertime so this moisture doesn't accumulate in the A/C evaporator "sponge".
In our northern climate the trapped moisture isn't so much a problem with mold breeding but random windshiedl fogging "surprises".
Oh, and even with that blower that runs automatically you might want to leave the windows open slightly to allow the "moisture cloud" to escape the cabin entirely. Another way they have improved the efficiency the the A/C is by severely restricting the amount of cabin "exit" airflow.
It's from Biozone, a UV light source in a plastic module with a small (Pentium) cooling fan to move air through it.
Now just how do we go about mounting it in the A/C evaporator chamber.
Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit) #99-01-39-004A
Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit)
1993-2002 Passenger Cars
1993-2002 Light & Medium Duty Trucks
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, service procedure, parts information and to add the GEO and Medium Duty models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on odors emitted from the air conditioning system, primarily at start-up in hot humid climates.
Cause
This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant, musty odor into the passenger compartment.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water leak. Follow the Service Manual procedure for identifying and correcting water leaks if other odor sources are found. The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the source of the odor has already been determined to be the HVAC module.
Correction
To remove odors of this type, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its reoccurrence. To accomplish this, the following steps must be completed:
1. Apply evaporator core Cooling Coil Coating (Aerosol 6 oz), P/N 12377951 (AC Delco® 15-102) (in Canada, use P/N 10953503) or Cooling Coil Coating Kit with Extension Nozzle, P/N 12346391 (AC Delco® 10-120).
2. Refills are available for the Cooling Coil Coating Kit with Extension Nozzle, P/N 12346391 (AC Delco® 10-120). Refer to the chart below. Install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer, P/N 12497910 (AC Delco® 15-5876).
Important
The Cooling Coil Coatings listed above are the only GM approved products for the disinfection and long-term control of evaporator microbial growth.
The Cooling Coil Coating will disinfect the evaporator core and help inhibit the growth of future mold and mildew.
The Electronic Evaporator Dryer will activate when the ambient temperature near the module is above 16° C (60° F) when the vehicle is started up. Approximately 30 minutes after the vehicle has been turned off, the blower will activate for 10 seconds every 10 minutes for 2 hours unless the vehicle is restarted. If a restart occurs, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer module will reset automatically. This on/off blower activation will dry the evaporator core and case reducing the chance of reoccurring A/C odor. The Electronic Evaporator Dryer is self fused and has a battery rundown protection feature that inactivates the dryer if voltage drops below 12.5 volts.
Service Procedure
1. Visually inspect the air conditioning evaporator drain hose for obstructions and/or working condition.
2. The cooling coil coating fluid must be applied to a dry evaporator core. Apply coil coating fluid as described in the instructions supplied with the kit. In some instances, the blower motor resistor can be removed for this spraying operation. If used, the opening can be taped over and the nozzle inserted through a hole in the tape. The kit instructions identify a drilling procedure to apply the coating fluid. When using this type of procedure, care must be taken to avoid evaporator damage and any holes must be properly sealed. Some coating fluid may overflow from the drain hose.
Important
When installing the Electronic Evaporator Module, you MUST use the included electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice.
3. Complete detailed installation instructions and wire connectors are supplied with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer. The ground wire should be attached to a body ground source. If any other wire splicing procedures are needed, follow the wire repair procedures in the Electrical sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual. If required, the evaporator dryer can be installed underhood away from extreme heat conditions (i.e. exhaust manifolds) and/or water splash areas. In all cases, the evaporator dryer module must be secured with a Velcro® strip (not included in the kit), or you may use the integral hooks to utilize tie straps. Using a Velcro® strip is preferred as the use of the integral hooks may cause rattles.
4. When the installation procedure is complete and power is supplied, the module will self-test. Thirty seconds after power is supplied, the high blower speed will be activated 3 times (for 2 seconds per cycle). When the test has run, install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer label on the blower motor case in a visible area.
http://www.airsept.com/eed.html
The sad news is that none of this works for those of us in northern climes where the "trapped" moisture intermittently and spontaneously causes windshield fogging.
The EED device is strictly to combat mold and mildew growth and doesn't work if the A/C plenum temperature doesn't rise above its trigger point.
Other news of concern:
Evaporator "coatings".
Lexus did this in the 92 LS400, applied a porous nylon film to the evaporator vanes into which was embedded an antimicrobial chemical.
When I inadvertantly got my hands on a copy of the "spec" Lexus moved heaven and earth disavowing that it ever existed and they would neevr do such a thing. At about the same time the dealers were using some third party spray to try and combat the problem.
Turned out neither of these chemicals were approved for human "consumption", the spray disappeared quickly from the marketplace and other than the Mazda in Australia I have heard no more about antimocrobial coatings. Be very careful what you coat your evaporator core with.
YOU ARE SOON GOING TO BE BREATHING WHATEVER IT IS!
Having said all that I hope these things work and if they do-protect your eyes.
It does make sense, I'm sure it works, but seems a terrible waste of energy.
the next guy over is a nut and doesn't count
until all affiliated costs of using energy are reflected in the price tag of that energy, goes the other side of the argument, the market is hogtied in the corner and isn't teaching anybody anything.
pick your side, start a new topic, and argue away. the automakers will keep using the compressor and its 5-8 percent reduction in mileage, until the market says stop.
Running your A/C compressor once a month is not a bad idea, but I have had no negative results in 30 years of owning cars with A/C by NOT.