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This seems different than the other wiper problems listed in this forum...
Any ideas? I know the dealer I got the van from replaced the wiper motors so I'm guessing they didn't do it right...
Also, could this lead to an electrical problem? I've found weird electrical problems -- most notable when I ran the wipers (but rain/moisture could be contributing... )
Thanks
don't know if this is related to my wiper problems or not, but here is a
list of what I encountered so far:
1) The interior lights stayed on for 5+ minutes after closing all the doors
and exiting the van. I couldn't shut them off without entering and shutting
the off the interior lights entirely. The next day the lights automatically
shut off after the 30 seconds like they were supposed to.
2) Power sliding door wouldn't work, as if it lost power. Happened 2x.
Magically worked a short time later.
3) In 1 trip today, I encountered all of the following (it was raining and I
had my wipers on):
a) Clock was okay. Left vehicle sit unattended for 3 hours. When I returned
and started it, the time was way off.
b) Radio sound blipped off for an instant, and at the same time the AIRBAG
light blinked on for a few seconds and then went out.
c) 30 seconds later, I hit a medium sized bump while braking. The Antilock
light, Traction Control light, and Brake lights on the dashboard instantly
went on and stayed on until the end of my trip.
d) Arrived home 3 minutes later and noticed the headlight intensity was
changing slightly (kinda flickering) as were the dash lights.
e) I shut off the van and immediately tried to restart it. It fired about
40-60% of the time. Tried to start it 3 times, and the 3rd time I let it
crank 15 seconds straight. I finally stepped on the accelerator slightly
while it was cranking and then it started. All the dash lights appeared
normal.
e) Finally shut off the van, and hit the button to open the power sliding
door and it did nothing. I eventually had to open and close the door
manually. I went back a few hours later and checked the door and it worked
fine.
Any ideas where to look first?
Thanks
First the good news: You probably don't have a big problem.
Now the bad news: You probably have a bad battery connection (most likely), a bad ground from the battery, or some sort of short. Some folks have had the Delco batteries leak acid, and that ends up on a big fat wire harness and eats the insulation, causing a lots of gremlins. You can inspect that one visually.
If you're a doityourself guy, get a side terminal battery tool, remove the fuse box from the support strut over the battery, remove support strut, take off both cables (neg first) and clean all contact surfaces, apply grease (doesn't matter what kind) to inhibit corrosion, reassemble.
Let us know how it turns out.
Dirk
2. maybe dirt in the tracks, slowing the door down?
3. maybe alternator or battery dying. i would guess alternator could disrupt systems enough to mess up the clock and cause lights to dim.
abs/antilock/trac lights are catching a glitch in the abs system, could be related to alternator, but i'd guess it to be a separate problem.
Disclaimer: I am not a techician
Now for the technical question - I noticed over the weekend that I had body rust where the roof metal connects to the hatch opening, which surprised me as the rest of the van is so solid and rust free. I have rear AC and roof rack, so the thought occurred to me that the roof rack was leaking, or the Rear Ac was putting water into the metal seam causing rust. since the rust goes from one side to the other, it seems like it must be caused by water. Any suggestions or has anyone else found similar rust on their vans? You have to look behind the open hatch, from the side of the van to see the seam I'm talking about.
Dirk
Anyway, the positive terminal looked a little corroded. I can see a little, anyway. But a little can still have a big impact. I'll attempt to clean it over the weekend and cross my fingers that there isn't something else causing the problem. I can only imagine the nightmare of trying to troubleshoot an electrical problem on a vehicle where you don't know its history...
In the past I've used a wire brush and follow-up with a baking soda/water mixture to neutralize the acid on the wires and post, but I got the impression this only left a residue behind which further corroded the cables/post as time went on.
Any good suggestions of the best method to clean the post? I've already got a small battery post ratchet/wrench to remove the post, but I'll have to track down whatever else I need...
Thanks again-
I would use a brush to clean the corrosion off of the terminal and cable. To help prevent the corrosion from coming back use dielectric grease sp? to coat the connection.
Steve, Host
I have used soda water mixture for years and it doesn't cause any problems as far as I'm aware. You will want to flush the area with water afterwards to get it all washed off but the soda is not a big deal.
You will need to scrape or polish the surface clean. Then, use any grease to coat both contact surfaces (don't worry, it will still flow power) to keep the air away from it. corrosion won't happpen when surrounded by grease. I have seen many talented mechanics not understand this and they want the battery connections to be dry and shiney, but that only breeds corrosion. Old submarines had tons of batteries in a very harsh salt water environmnet but they coated everything with grease to protect from corrosion.
Good luck, I think that's your problem. If you havn't gotten the side terminal tool get one, it makes dealing with them a lot easier and you'll want the connections tight.
Dirk
I think the Pontiac had interchangable seats.
Anyone have a different idea?
We had our drivers side power window motor replaced ..
The white clips that hold the door panel are stripped thus the bottom of the panel is flapping and getting stuck when trying to open drivers door .. where can one get a couple of the white clips to hold the door panel to the door ?
Thanks in advance!!!!
Steve, Host
Check blub # against a book.
D
I have 102k on my '98 Silo GLS. Yesterday I heard a loud clunk from the rear when turned into the driveway, and when we left the house today and hit a pothole, we heard a really loud in the rear and then the van started becoming unstable as the rear end was loose.
I checked and the rear axle suspension arm on the passenger side BROKE in half about where the outer edge of the tire is! The part has a slot in it at that point (for weight reduction?) which made it weaker no doubt.
I'm not sure if this from many abusive lifts at service bays (they should know where to attach the lift but usually don't bother to read for particular vehicles) or what.
Of course the van is out of commission until we get this fixed, and it looks like the entire axle assembly will have to be replaced. I may try a few junkyards, or have the dealer do it if they don't kill me too badly on price. FWIW, I don't think my van was even in an accident from what I could tell and the VIN check, but this breakage seems very odd.
Anyone else had this happen??
Dirk
I also have stronger than stock air shocks, which push a little bit on the opposite side of the axle, and when fully loaded could put some torque on the trailing arms.
They are welded to the rear axle assembly all in one peice. I have a pic but I'm not sure how to post it. Since I have a MIG welder and some steel laying around I think I'm going to weld it up over the $1800 the dealer wants to replace it with a new unit or $1500 for a used one that is still in my opinion a bit under-designed.
I'll take pics of the project and figure a way to post them.
Dirk
I expect to replace it today, should fix the problem.
My one complaint is the fuel mileage. So far we have 2800 kms on the dial and the fuel consumption is not getting better. I realize sometimes that the first few tanks are bad but I was kind of hoping for some improvement. Can anyone shed some light on this situation for me? Will I ever get close to the 19/26 I'm suppose to?
I have had it before... goes away comes back....
Last week I did oil change to 10-30 weight.
Noise went away then came back...
Another opinion said it could be knock?
So I put in super hiTest....
Wow, engine was quietest in years....
Now after a weekend noise is back...
I'm getting different advice and diagnosis!
Anyone have a similar experience????
thanks...
Without hearing the noise, I am only guessing. I would put in a fuel cleaner that will remove deposits and carbon build up. I would also run 5-30W oil (if it is recommended for your van) to let the oil flow freely.
My fear is it is leaking manifold gasket.. internal
I had external leak... fixed with stopleak additive.
I'ne been reading about issue on cartrackers.com
They have a huge section on GM triplets, LEMONS!
They claim DEXCOOL gets into engine then weakens parts...
Have this awful feeling...
No matter what I fix it will be something else!
If so, it's going somewhere bad.
But I am not losing coolant any more.
Can't understand the noise coming and going...
Seems to be no rhymn or reason.
Worst is the conflicting diagnosis from mechanics.
Spend $800 here, spend $2500 here....
We like the van but maybe I should trade...
while there is no noise!
Right now I'm hoping the lastest oil change
& higher octane will do the trick.
The lack of support from GM is awlful!
Reading the boards at different site you see there
is clearly a problem with the 3400 engine.
Anyway, I would not panic about yours breaking. I did not like the $1800 the dealer wanted to replace the entire rear axle assembly, so I got out my welder and and some scrap steel and got it all fixed up. Rides just fine now, and no worse for wear.
A bonus is the wife shut up about the cost my welding equipment and other shop goodies (I needed my 24mm socket and wrench, good to have laying around!) after saving all the money.
Dirk
There was a 'negative' with the Shadow Mt design.... the receiver pin can only go in from the bottom. Not enough clearance to install from the top.
1) Audible "thunk" when turning left (not right) with or without rapid acceleration. Was intermittent, now 85% of time. Had bushings, tie rods, steering box replaced. Replaced front brakes and rotors. Still noticable.
2) Electrical gremlin like a short. Left blinker causes a christmas tree effect on rear lights. Braking with left blinker on causes greater effect. Left blinker causes right blinker to show as well. When braking with left blinker, the brake lights blink, ther right blinker is on, both dash indicators light up. One dealer said could not duplicate, One dealer replaced the circuit board in left tail light assembly (not covered under warranty - $240).
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks for all of the other posts - will have gasket checked this next time.
I looked after it was installed, and the only deal is the mounting bracket for the aircompressor had to be disconnected and then reconnected, possibly reattaching some air lines after it was installed. The only part you see is the 2" receiver below the bumper, but its hung low enough that I've hit it a few times already on stuff, FYI.
It looks fairly simple to install, but heavy and uses large fasteners. If you have a floor jack, stands, large tools (no jokes...) and know something about cars, go for it. If you don't have help, maybe better to get someone to do it for you, looks pretty heavy.
DD
So, does this sound like the battery and low power starts messing up Traction control, Power sliding doors, Security, and ability for the engine to start, or does it sound like some other computer/electrical problem. I am taking it in to the dealer tomorrow, but I was wondering if anyone else has ever had these symptoms.
I'd check that (or have it checked) by someone who understands things, many mechanics have very little clue about electronics beyond subwoofers and add-on lights.
Get battery tested, then make sure the connections have a grease coating and clean surfaces.
Something might have set off the security on that one episode, hard to say unless something really breaks.
If its cranking hard push the gas pedal down some and see if that fires it up, some gas you get is not very good and it might not hold well in heat, this will add air which should help.
DD
Just use the key and the FOB on your key ring and see if it happens again. Keep us posted on what the dealer finds out, it may help the rest of us.
Thanks.
A newspaper reporter would like to talk with recent minivan buyers who live in Michigan. Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com or swebster@freepress.com with your daytime phone number by Thursday, June 17, 2004. Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon, PR Director
Edmunds.com
Steve, Host
It was late saturday night, sunday morning I figure we will go to church and then come home and change the oil. Well we never made it home. I was drivng about 30 mph and the car shut off. and then when I tried to start it it was very hard to start and then would not run when you put it park. so I had it towed and the dealer says it needs a new engine for $3800. I was hoping that the oil pump failed and the engine shut its self off because of lack of oil pressure any help ot there????
I doubt it was the oil pump, those rarely fail. But it is a possibility.
I've looked in the manual and I'll have to remove the inside seats for access and using a flat tool remove the door panel, gain access and replace something in the door lock. A fun weekend ahead, I can tell.
DD
Has your Montana ever been wired for a trailer connection? The Montana has a separate turn signal bulb and a separate stop light bulb. On my trailer wiring setup I had to use a separation block (which was just a diode) to keep the brake circuit from feeding back to the turn signal circuit & vice versa. I haven't analyzed the circuit but it's possible if the diode were allowing some feedback you could get some weird conditions like you describe.