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ford power stroke diesel questions

themailman1themailman1 Posts: 95
I was wondering if anyone could help me. I want a f 250 ext cab 4x4 diesel auto tranny but have heard mixed opinions about some questions I have. I drive 64 miles a day round trip[ to work 5 days a week, add another 100 miles minimun a week for other travel and then 2-3 300 mile trips out hunting and add a few more for vacations. I have had my tundra for less than a year and have 21k and counting and have added another 3-4 k on my 4runner which I have had for 6 months. Would it be a good idea to get the diesel and have one truck for everything? I don't haul very often but I do do occassional side jobs out of my truck( I am an electrician).Keep in mind I don't care about the frequency of oil changes/ anti freeze changes and additives, it is about the same for that truck as for my 2 trucks now. I also four wheel and this truck would get a lift and bigger tires(not too much), and I would possibly plow with it in the future. Any help or suggestions? I want to keep away from the ford gas engines, v8 not enough power, and we have a v10 in the truck at work and I would'nt get that engine. Any help?Sorry so long.
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Comments

  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    If what you really want is to save money, get rid of the pathfinder and drive the wheels off the Tundra. Just make sure you are saving enough to replace it. I would say to keep the pathfinder over the tundra except an SUV isn't practical for your occupation, you need a truck. A PSD is fine, but you'll suffer on depreciation unloading the tundra at this time, also paying sales tax again, higher insurance, and if you financed before, you won't have much equity because the interest is loaded up front. Don't worry about the miles. Worry instead about continuing to save for the next one, even after the note is paid.

    I suspect this really isn't about saving money, although you are looking for some justification to abandon the tundra and pathfinder and get into a PSD. You could be fooling only yourself. If you can afford the tundra, you won't worry about the miles you are putting on it. More expensive vehicles always cost more per mile than cheaper ones, no getting around this. My brutally honest $0.02
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The PSD, or any diesel for that matter, is more expensive up front. And, I will agree with quad about higher priced vehicles costing more per mile to own. But, he is comparing apples to oranges and is probably not allowing for the differences between the two beasts. He is my take on the situation.

    Typical gas powered truck:
    Cost to purchase - appr. $25,000: Cost of oil changes every 2,500 miles (doing them myself) - appr. $600: Expected repairs - appr. $2,000: A grand total of appr. $27,600: If you put 150k on this truck and it is worth $0 at the end, the cost per mile to own this truck is 18.4 cents per mile.

    Typical diesel powered truck:
    Cost to purchase - $35,000: Cost of oil changes every 5,000 miles (doing them myself) - appr. $1,800: Expected repairs - appr. $4,000: Grand total of appr. $40,800: If you put 300k on this truck and it is worth $0 at the end, the cost per mile to own this truck is 13.6 cents per mile.

    In the scenario above, I didn't even get into the fuel savings of the diesel.
  • Hey thanks for the feed back. I am really confused on what to do, I realize I will probably loose money on the tundra but I would make about a grand on the 4runner cause I got it for cheap and did 90% of the maintainence myself(sell it outright). The gas prices are starting to rise but I have not seen the diesel prices so I can't compare. As for insurance it would be the same for my 2 trucks as compared to 1 truck and the sales tax and other misc. fees would be the only bad thing as well as the starting over of the term(4 yrs left on my tundra). THanks for the help guys.
  • lwittorflwittorf Posts: 96
    Diesel is higher priced here in Wa. the ps takes 12 quarts of oil plus a 12-15$ filter, fuel filters,up front cost dosen't add up unless you are going to use it for heavy work. I had a 96 ps e-xcab auto 4:10 ratio got 16-18 mpg excellant power ride& driving but just to expensive to use as a car.Don't claim to have all the answers but that is what I found out from having one.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    If you only use one as a "car" and get a new one every few years, the diesel is not an option. You really need to run one at least 100k to 150k miles to break even. After projecting current mileage trends, my truck will have approximately 300k miles on it come time for a new one.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    Of all the comparos I've ever seen, that's the silliest!!!

    Why are you halfing the oil change intervals on the diesel??? Especially with the PSD, the oil changes are even more critical than a gasser.

    Did you factor in the interest on $4600 over 5 years that the "average" truck owner will pay for the diesel??

    The repairs on ancillary items will not be in line with a gasser. Water pumps on a PSD are $700 vs $100 for a V10. Injectors are 3X's the amount.
    You have coolant additives, a few more and expensive filters.

    $0 value @ 150K for a gasser??? LMAO!!!

    If you buy the diesel because of the better high altitude hauling, for its obnoxious smells or sounds, for its sluggish off the line performance(PSD and cummins) more power to you.

    If you buy a diesel because of some perceived value advantage......Enron comes to mind.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    No, I did not factor in the interest on the extra $4,600, in fact, I did not factor in any interest. The $0 end value is for illustration only and represents worst case scenario, a person can argue end value from now 'till the cows come home and still not know what that value will be X number of years down the road. You may think the PSD needs oil changes every 2,500 miles, but repeated oil analysis has shown that 5,000 miles is fine. No one can accurately estimate repair costs over the life of a vehicle, those were ESTIMATES, what the average person can EXPECT to pay over the life of the vehicle. A neighbor of mine handles extended warranty claims. They tell me my estimates are in the ballpark. I'm sorry if you don't like diesels, roll up your windows. And I did not buy my truck for its drag strip performance. As far as value goes, this truck should outlast two gassers. It would cost me much more for the two gassers than it cost for the one PSD.
  • jdtopperjdtopper Posts: 58
    '00 350 CC 4x4 LWB SRW because I knew I wouldn't be buying another vehicle anytime soon and I wanted a truck that would not limit my horizons. It will pull/carry anything I am likely to need and will go anywhere I am likely to want to go, except into my garage...;-). I plan to keep it till the wheels fall off.

    For the diesels, oil changes certainly cost more - hey, there's 4 gallons of oil in that engine - but they are less frequent (5k miles instead of 3k) so it comes a little closer to averaging out. It certainly is not as bad as modvptnl makes it sound, and there is a 100k mile warranty on the diesel engine/drivetrain. I've put 41k miles on mine since May of 2000, and so far have spent about $1k on maintenance at the dealer...and not a penny of it went for engine problems. If I'd done my own work, it would have cost me less, but I think I'll stick with Ford maintenance at least until it runs out of warranty.

    My driving is about the same as what you stated. Diesel fuel generally costs about the same, or less, than the cheapest grade of gasoline and the diesel gets about 25% better mileage than equivalent gasoline units. I get 16-17 mpg combined mileage and 19 mpg on strictly highway miles. You won't get that kind of efficiency from ANY gasoline powered one-ton pickup. There are a lot of half-tons that can't match it. The extra cost of my engine will be more than paid for by the time I sell it.

    From your post, you hunt a bit. If that takes you high up in the mountains, you will REALLY appreciate all that turbocharged torque...it simply can't be beat. The only gas engine that Ford makes that has a prayer of giving similar performance is the V10, and frankly, the V10 is a distant cousin when loaded or towing, especially at altitude. It just can't cut it above about 7,000 feet, loaded.

    You might give some thought to a Crew Cab...I didn't like the looks at first, but I find that the extra interior space is way more useful than I ever anticipated. I wouldn't give it up now...
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    ....are you guys claiming the gassers need more frequent oil changes????? The PSD is VERY susceptible to contaminated oil due to its fuel injection system. While I do change my oil on the V10 @3000 miles, I would probably do the same with a diesel. Put another way, 5k on synthetic in my gasser would not cause me any worry.

    Mullins, I agree with your first paragraph in post #8 more so than your last post. As far as warranties go, check out the surcharge on an extended warranty for a diesel....you'll choke on the cost difference.

    Jd, didn't we go through this before?? (if not I apologize)The 100,000 mile warranty is NOT on the powertrain...just the diesel motor.

    Currently(in Vegas) diesel is more expensive than the regular I can run in the gasser.

    Pulling max loads at altitude a diesel cannot be beat.
  • Hi All
    Got a neighbor runing a long bed. It keeps leaking oil.Dealership can't find a thing.
    It's a '98 4X4. Any ideas?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The dealership not being able to find the leak doesn't surprise me. Back in '95, my wife and I bought a Cougar. Within 10k miles the engine developed a small oil leak around the front crank seal. It wasn't a huge leak, but it was enough to sling oil all over the front of the engine. I took it to the dealer to have it fixed, under warranty of course. They said there was no leak, that I had spilled oil everywhere when I changed it. I am WAY to anal about things like that. I asked them to put the ultra violet dye in the oil. They refused, saying there was no leak. I jumped up and down and became a very annoying squeeky wheel. They consented, cleaned up the front of the engine and put in the dye, took them maybe 5 minutes to do this. I drove the car home, had my wife drive it the next day. When I got home that night, I pulled out my UV light and guess what, the front of that motor lit up light a Vegas show. When I took it back to the dealership, they fixed it no questions asked. I sure your friends is outside of the warranty, but my guess is the mechanic at the dealership is lazy and doesn't want to look for the leak. My assessment here is based on a comment made by the mechanic in my situation. He said "You can spend all day long chasing oil leaks that don't exist." DON'T EXIST!!!!!! Just how in the hell did that oil get there in the first place??? If it's not under warranty, I would find a new mechanic. Just my $.02 worth.
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  • bwarner1bwarner1 Posts: 2
    I have a "97 F-250 Power Stroke crewcab which expells white smoke upon start up and lasts for a few min. The dealer has been no help, which is not unusual. They say everything checks out fine but I don't remember that much smoke in the past. Has anybody had this problem or am I being too particular?
  • bwarner1bwarner1 Posts: 2
    I have a "97 F250 Power Stroke which is my first diseal. I tow a 30.5 foot travel trailer with no diffulity and I travel to work only 5 miles. According to some people this truck may be more expensive to operate but the expense is well worth the reliabily and power. Several of my cousins and friends have Power Strokes and would not give them up for any size gas engine. A gas engine will beat you off the line, but bet your donuts, you'll leave them far behind on that hill and they'll be stopping at more filling stations than you. Somethings in life are worth the extra money and the Power Stroke is one of them.
  • quikbenquikben Posts: 1
    I have a '99 F250 7.3 Super Duty that started smokeing,only on start up, at about 96,000 miles. Then the white smoke was present at startup and idle. I took the truck to the dealership when the SES light came on and the truck lost power! At the dealer they were quick to diagnosis and replace a bad injector
    But when they started the truck it still the had a small amount of smoke and it did not have full power on the test drive! When they did a pressure check they found the #7 right rear clyinder with low compression, under 100 psi normal 350 to 400 psi.
    They said the problem was most likely a broken ring.
    I got a new engine because I was just under 100,000 miles.
    My next truck will be a GM with a gas engine!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Congratulations on the free new engine!!! Sounds like you found that one out just in time. You won't get that kind of service out of GM at 96,000+ miles.
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    With the amount you drive, a gas truck will cost you more just for fuel! A PSD should run way over 200 K before major work, with your new engine, you should have plenty of time to weigh the pro's and con's of various new trucks.

    Harry
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    That is what I am counting on. My Powerstroke, at current driving levels, will have approximately 300k miles on it when time for a new one. No gasser I know of would make it that far. And, considering the truck only cost $6,000 more, it's almost like getting two trucks for the price of one. I am hoping that good preventative maintenance will do it.
  • I finally got one.Picked it up thursday.A 2002 ford f250 psd auto 4x4 reg cab.My dream truck.This thing is so awesome.I cna t wait to break it in so I can actually use the throttle,not that you have to use it all that much.Just awesome.Later Nick
  • I just bought my first diesel, a '99 F250 PSD and so far I love it. At some fuel stations I see the diesel fuel labelled as "Diesel 2" and others just "Diesel". Is this the same stuff but just advertised differently? If not, should I be using one or the other?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    First off, only buy fuel from the busiest truck stops in your area. That way you are assured of fresh fuel, and fresh fuel is very high on the important list. These truck stops will(should) change between No. 1 and No. 2 Diesel depending on the time of year. No. 1 Diesel is for winter/cold weather use and No. 2 Diesel is for summer/warm weather use.

    Most likely what you are seeing is just labeling on the pump. But you might want to ask someone at the station of your choice.
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    I am considering the new 6l V8 diesel in a crew cab configuration with 6 3/4 bed. Has anyone heard any details about this new motor?
  • y2k4my2k4m Posts: 9
    is it worth the cost? The Ford parts guy was really trying to sell me one, but everything I saw in my truck info said "don't do it". My thoughts are if it's such a good deal (to increase hp and mileage) why isn't Ford doing this at the factory? Feedback is welcome.
    '02 F350 CC Lariat SWB 4X4
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    Generally when you install a "chip" upgrade in the ECM for a diesel it increases the exhaust temperatures which can cause damage if the temperatures get to high, not to mention the added wear and tear of more Hp and Torque.
  • y2k4my2k4m Posts: 9
    I did some more searching on-line and found limited info. (always better to get it from the source). It appears that you do get more hp, but as you said it raises the temperature which will shorten the life of the turbo. Bad trade off in my opinion. Thanks again for the reply!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You can put a mild chip in your truck without significantly affecting the life of the engine. But get a pyrometer along with that chip. A pyro is a gauge that shows the exhaust gas temperature. It allows you to monitor the temps in realtime so you can alter the way you are driving at that moment in order to keep the temps down. Noboby that I have ever talked to has had any trouble with their EGT's when using a mild chip. It seems only those who run the wilder ones that have trouble. Stay with a reputable chip maker that has considerable diesel experience. Right off the top of my head I can think of four manufacturers that would be good choices; Banks, SuperChip, Western Diesel and Hypertech. IMO, Banks and Western Diesel would be the best of the four, but the other two are excellent companies and they have a tremendous number of chips out on the road. My recommedation: Drop about $500 for a mild chip and a pyro. You won't be sorry. If you are concerned about the warranty, buy the Ford chip. There's no way they could void your warranty if you were using their product installed by their technicians.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sorry lariat1, I meant to address that last post to y2k4m.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I have seen posts in which people say a PSD should run 300,000 miles, but "should" and "will" are two different things. Is there anyone out there that has a PSD with over 100,000 miles on it? How about 200,000? 300,000? What expenses, other than normal oil and filter changes have you experienced?

    I would like to know the actual experiences of owners. Right now I am in a quandry as to whether to go with gas or diesel, and if there are cases of these engines lasting as long as some say they "should" it would be a "nobrainer" for me. I drive a truck long and tow heavy loads on occasion with it, but not enough to warrant the additional cost of a diesel for that alone.

    Also, I've heard of a 100,000 mile engine warranty. Ford's specs don't show it. Is that a Ford or International warranty--or does it not even exist?

    I would appreciate any help anyone can offer on these questions.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    If you don't keep the coolant treatment up on the powerstrokes, you will have cavitation problems...

    I only got 180,000 out of my last ford diesel. This was before it was readily known about the coolant issues.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I am on my first PSD, a '99 F-350. I have nearly 109k miles on it. The only repairs made to date are a broken clock spring in the steering column, not PSD related, and the infamous turbo bolts that fall out. The bolts were fixed under my Ford powertrain 100k mile warranty at 97k miles. Other than that, only routine maintenance. Like markbuck said, keep up with the coolant treatment. Check it everytime you change the oil and adjust as necessary. I would guess that most early PSD deaths are caused by cavitation and the resulting pinholes in the cylinder walls. Just do the maintenance, use good fluids and filters, and use common sense when operating it, and the thing will last you a long time.
  • rayrockrayrock Posts: 14
    i'm interested in a diesel pick up but can't find any mileage figures. i don't tow but like the durability stories i hear. anyone with mpg numbers?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I have a '99 F-350 PSD SC LB DRW 4x2 6-speed with a 3.73 ratio. I get 18.5 mpg empty.
  • jdtopperjdtopper Posts: 58
    I have a 350 CC LWB 4x4 PSD with a hard tonneau cover. I can confirm Mullin's numbers - 18 to 19 on the freeway at 65 mph, about 16 or so combined highway/city mileage.

    I've seen numbers as good as 21 mpg if I'm on a long trip on 50 - 55 mph roads, and as low as 16 highway when I'm flogging it at 80. I don't have any numbers for towing/loaded, but it's absolutely certain that you'll get better mileage with your diesel than with an equivalent gas engine.
  • I have a '00 F250 Crew Cab w/ a PSD and have had very poor luck at fixing a "popping" or "clunking" sound from the underbody. My dealer has replaced the cab mounts and spring isolators several times and sometimes it's better, but still comes back after time. Any similar problems or issues???
  • ccdickccdick Posts: 1
    Considering buy a psd. Reading this board I see mention of an infamous turbo bolt problem. I am totally ignorant here. Please explain. Also if you will please explain cavitation cause and how to prevent.
    My primary use of this truck is a towing and everyday vehicle. Can't make up my mind between crew or extended cab. Any feed back there? LB or SB. Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Good choice! The turbo bolt problem is a persistent one, but fairly easy and cheap to fix. First, look at the turbo where the two halves come together. The compressor side will be fairly shiny(silvery-gold color) and the exhaust side, not sure what that side is called, will be rusty. There will be four bolts just bairly sticking out of their holes with the heads facing the compressor side. The heads are not your typical hex heads, they are of a 12 point design. If they are loose, or missing in some cases, then you can get a turbo bolt upgrade kit at the Ford dealership for around $35 to $40 dollars. You can replace the top two bolts easily as they are out in the open. The bottom two have a pedestal bolt, one on each side, in the way. Once the top two are in, take out ONLY ONE of the pedestal bolts and replace the turbo bolt, replace that pedestal bolt. Then do the same for the other. The lower bolt on the back side is the most difficult since you can't see it. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH PEDESTAL BOLTS AT THE SAME TIME AS THE TURBO HOUSING COULD/WILL SHIFT CAUSING THE TWO HALVES TO BECOME MISALIGNED, DAMAGING THE SHAFT. Just ask the parts guy if you have any questions.

    The cavitation issue is caused by tiny air bubbles forming around the cylinders while the engine is running. These bubbles form due to the rapid expansion/contraction of the cylinder walls due to the high compression. A bubble can form as the cylinder wall contracts, a result of the low pressure area caused by the contraction. As the cylinder wall expands, the air bubble is subjected to extreme pressures causing it to implode violently enough to actually eat away at the metal. To prevent this, Ford has a product called FW-16. This is a coolant additive designed to prevent cavitation as well as prevent other common cooling system woes. This stuff will allow you to run the coolant for 200k miles, or 24 months. I think.

    I have a Supercab and wish I had held out for a Crewcab. I admit, sometimes the added foot or so could be cumbersome, but you know, I don't think it is worth the trade off in lost backseat space.

    Get the longbed, especially if you are to be pulling a 5th wheel or wide nosed gooseneck. You really need that extra foot in front of the rear axle when doing tight manuevers. Otherwise, you might hit the cab with the corner of the trailer.

    I have a '99 F-350 PSD DRW SC LB 4x2 6-speed. I have 110k miles and I love it the more I drive it!!! It is mostly stock, a few small exceptions, but nothing major, yet.

    What are you wanting? New, used? Good luck and welcome in advance to the all addicting world of diesel ownership. I am welcoming you now because once you get diesel in your blood, you'll never go back.
  • nobitenobite Posts: 3
    I've been lurking here, reading and thinking and then going to Ford-diesel and doing the same. I am nearing a decision to jump into the diesel experience, but I have some concerns. My first set of concerns are regarding choosing the right model.

    Needs and wants: 1) pulling a 9,000# gooseneck horse trailer; 2) extended cab (not crew cab); 3) long bed; 4) 4x4.

    It would be ideal if I could meet the above needs with an F-250 as that would also fit into my garage and would be handy getting into and out of my friend's barn when hauling hay. But, I have been informed that the weight of the diesel, plus the extended cab, long bed and 4x4 leaves not too much left before I exceed the GVWR capacity. This really surprises me, but I don't have enough experience to disagree. Anyone here have thoughts on this subject?

    My second set of concerns centers on buying a used truck, specifically a PSD. I have read about the many horrors that can come from the Ford trannys if they are not maintained perfectly. (Heck, some of the stories sound like even good maintenance won't prevent these babies from breaking down!) And, I'm sure there are other possible weak points to consider that I have not read about yet. So, I'm looking for some good tips on how to evaluate a used PSD --- whether on a car lot or from an individual. I've never owned any diesel so please start with the basics! Other than checking for wheel balance, breaks, unusual sounds, body integrity - what should I be looking for? How can I best not buy myself a bunch of hidden problems?

    Thanks for your thoughts!

    -NoBite
    western KY
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    You can exceed the "legal" capacity of the F250 pretty quickly. Your payload gets eaten up by passengers, gear, fuel, etc. doesn't leave much for the gooseneck and hitch. The F250 can easily pull it and probably stop it too, but if you ever have an accident while towing your insurance company may leave you dangling in the breeze if you're overloaded.

    From 2001 spec sheets:

    Max payload F250, SC, LWB, 4x2 is 3355 lbs., with 4x4 it's 4015 lbs.
    F350, SC, LWB, SRW, 4x2 is 4435 lbs, 4x4 is 4015 lbs. Gives you an extra 1100 lbs to play with. Even better, an F350 Dooley will give 5510 lbs 4x2, 5085 lbs as a 4x4, plus you get extra stability for towing.

    These payloads all assume you have base 5.4L V8 gasser, XL model. (I think they use weight of manual tranny, not auto.) Not sure what A/C and other options weigh. For their calculations they assume there's only the 175 lb driver in the vehicle. V10 weighs ~200 lbs more than V8. the 7.8L PSD weighs almost 600 lbs more than V8 gasser - so you've got to subtract that weight from your capacity too.

    I have a F350, v10, CC, so can't really comment on PSDs too much. From my buddy who has one though - most important is regular oil changes, and keeping the coolant additive up to prevent cavitation and pitting of cylinder walls. Biggest enemy of auto tranny is heat. From 2000 on, Superduties had bigger radiators and supplemental tranny coolers. So unless truck pulled a lot a big hills at slow speeds where wasn't enough airflow through coolers, it probably wouldn't have cooked transmission with newer stock cooling.
    "Used" is always kind of a crap shoot. I suppose if you find a truck you like, you could take the VIN and check with CarFax on accidents/insurance claims. Also you could have a Ford service department check to find out its service records. (Not sure how agreeable they are to that though.) At least maybe find out if it was serviced regularly while under warranty.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Do you know the loaded ball weight of your gooseneck? I have a dually, so I have no problems, but friends who have the 250 similar to what you describe tell me that they only have about 1,500 lbs of hitch weight to play with before they are overloaded. The 250's and 350's, both with PSD's, will have the same GCWR.

    In my experience, I was able to buy a 350 cheaper than a 250. Why, demand. Most people who like the Superduty's don't want a 1-ton, even a SRW model. Unless you're in a bind and need it now, wait for the perfect truck to come along. It will eventually. A SRW F-350 has the same dimensions as the 250, but has an extra 1,000 lbs of payload capacity.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Max payload F250, SC, LWB, 4x2 is 3355 lbs., with 4x4 it's 2905 lbs.

    Again, that's an empty truck, no fuel, no passengers, without the 600 lb difference for the PSD. Like Mullins said, doesn't leave too much to play around with.
  • saddaddysaddaddy Posts: 566
    That will include tongue weight of a trailer (non gooseneck) -- correct??? Im just a lowly Tacoma owner, who longs to drive bigger rigs. Hehe, thanx.
  • jcave1jcave1 Posts: 137
    My mileage is also similar to that of Jim Mullins and Jack Topper. Mine is on '01 SC SB 4X4 with 28k miles or so and is completely stock. While I don't tow, others indicate 11 - 12.

    jerry
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Yes, the GVWR also includes any tongue weight on your receiver, or bumper hitch.

    wpalkowski: I'm glad you posted that correction, I was beginning to wonder if the 4x4 F-250 had the same rear axle as the F-350. I am amazed every time I come across another redneck that thinks just because he has a 4x4 that he can haul/pull anything.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You need to pull something with that beast!!! My truck acts like it has lost its best friend when I am running empty. But, when I put the trailer behind it, man what a difference. It's as smooth as silk.
  • jcave1jcave1 Posts: 137
    At times I wish I had something to tow. Best I can do right now is a drift boat. Next week will be our first trip. Headed to Spokane WA for a stained glass show. Prior to the show I'm visiting a buddy on Flat Head Lake, MT. The moutain passes in Idaho will be absolutely gorgeous and a blast with the PSD. Can't wait to get this baby on a road trip. Guessing the drive to Flathead will be about eleven hours.

    jerry
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    just announced that ford is for sure going thru with the 6.0 Diesel. should be interesting to see who is the best now.
  • jdtopperjdtopper Posts: 58
    Drift boat? (I'm sure you don't even know it's there, unless you have to back up!) Do you guide with that boat, or just fish with it?

    JT
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I've heard you mention your drift boat, more than once I believe. It's killing me. What is a drift boat?
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    A drift boat is a style of boat that is commonly used in rivers that do not allow motors. They are generally about twice as wide as a canoe and have a flat bottom with pointed,upturned ends that allow the boat to easily be maneuvered in swift currents using row boat style oars. They are popular in western trout streams and up here in Alaska on the Russian and Kenai rivers.

    Does anyone know if the new 6.0l powerstroke is the "camless" engine that has been developed or just a new version of the old technology.
  • I currently own 2001 Ford excursion v10, 4x4. I'm considering trading it in for a 2002/2003 F350 4x4, crew cab, long bed. The ford is currently offering good rebates/rates on the 2002 models. According to the edmunds the 2003 should have heated mirrors and the new more powerful diesel engine. Do you folks think it is better to take the proven 7.3 diesel or wait for the new 6.0. My only concern is that 7.3 has been out there for a long time, majority of the problems have been worked out. The 6.0 will be new. BUT the extra HP and torque is very tempting. Any suggestions?
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