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Ford F-Series Care and Maintenance

Is it possible for the vibration from a warped rotor to transfer to other parts ie; Idler arm bushing, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings,pitman arm bushing, steering componants, drive train and my wrists?


  • jdtopperjdtopper Posts: 58
    Certainly...especially if the warped rotors are on the front. My experience with front rotors is that they warp easily, within about 15,000 miles, even if you don't do any heavy braking or hauling of heavy loads.

    My opinion is that the Ford rotors are an inferior design.
  • fordtuffordtuf Posts: 101
    My 99F250 SD had about 45k miles when traded in.
    It had about 4 brake jobs, one included new front rotors. Definitely you will feel it in the steering wheel and in the whole truck if you let it go.
  • dre10dre10 Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 V6 XLT Automatic Regular Cab Ranger with around 40,100 miles on it. I live in Chicago and I'm going to be moving to San Diego, CA late February. The trips about 2085 miles. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I sorta maintenance I should do before I head out? What's the longest I should drive before giving my Ranger a rest?

    Any help would make my move that much smoother. Thanks!
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    Some advice needed. I have a 98 XLT with the cruise controls in the steering wheel. One of the lamps went out and I can't seem to figure out on how to get at the bugger. I'm Worried on removal of the air bag housing as they can be tempermental and go off accidentally. Any suggestions would be appriciated.
  • tgallopbstgallopbs Posts: 2
    I have a 1992 Ranger 6cly, Auto. Just recently I experienced stalling and hard starting. Sometimes it won't start. If I give it gas it knonks out. I had a tune-up 6 months ago. I had it in the garage for 4 days and they can't figure out the problem. They changed a sensor, cost about $40, don't know which one, it didn't help. They don't think it's the fuel pump. This guy builds race cars and he can't fix it. Today, took it to a garage that has a lot of computer equip to test it. He will check it out on Monday. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Appreciate any ideas. Thanks, Tom
  • tgallopbstgallopbs Posts: 2
    Still having the same problem after changing the MAF Sensor. The mechanic thought it was running fine, but picked it up tonight and it's doing the same thing. I ended up leaving it for them to see inj the morning. Any suggestions?
  • I just bought a 1999 f250 super duty with a 7.3L diesel. I read on anouther forum that there is a water drain on the truck. I took, that it was in the fuel line some were. Could someone tell me where it is and how often do you drain it. I don't know much about a diesel.
  • rmaxwellrmaxwell Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 f350 crew v10. The a/c has become not very cool, the pressures are h165, l 35... does that sound right?

  • gorgian38gorgian38 Posts: 1
    we have a 1991 f150 is stalling when it heats up. replaced the two low pressure pumps found 3 loose wires on frame! Is there a third pump to the fuel injector? or just fuel filter?
  • bkochbkoch Posts: 1
    I have a 93 F150 and had the same vibration when braking. I replaced the rotors and still have the problem, in fact it seems like it is getting worse. The brake pads have about 2k on them could they be causing the shaking? Dealership won't give me any leads.
  • jbranumjbranum Posts: 2
    replace the heat sensor on thermostat housing worked for me it tells the computer that its cold vwhen its hot gets to much gas
  • jbranumjbranum Posts: 2
    i had same problem i moved rear tires ri front took care of problem for about six months finally had to buy major brand tires sometimes id hit brake it would shake so bad i almost has to stop i replaced rotors and pads but no help
  • What are the parts needed to convert a 1996 F-150 from 2wd to 4wd? Or is it even possible?
  • griff2griff2 Posts: 1
    I have 1992 F150, WITH OVER 200,000 MILES ON IT.I have done a complete tuneup on it, replaced the TPS Sensor,replaced the MAP Sensor. When the engine is cold, at startup, it runs fine. As soom as it warms up, it bogs down, and bucks,when it tries to shift into high gear.
    Does anyone have any idea what could cause this problem?
    I have run out of ideas, and patience. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!! :(
  • I had a misfire on cylinder 2. Replaced coil pack per instructions from advance auto guy. Misfire still there, so put original back. Truck no longer started, so put new one back on. Still will not start - get machine gun sound when I turn the key. I know the wires are connected correctly because I transferred them one at a time.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • royc1royc1 Posts: 1
    1993 Ford F350 Crew Cab, 4x4, 4 wheel long bed, w /7.3 pre-power stroke diesel and manual trans. When driving recently, between one brake application and the next, the pedal went from solid to soft. Braking force was still good, no fluid was lost, but under steady pressure the pedal would go to the floor. Every part in the system except steel lines has been replaced. Front Calipers, rear brakes, ABS module, booster, master cylinder, flexible lines, even the vacuum pump are all new. It is exactly like it was after whatever broke, broke. It still stops fairly well, still doesn't leak fluid, but the pedal will go to the floor under steady pressure.
    I and my mechanic are stumped. Any ideas?
  • wes8wes8 Posts: 1
    Are they any grease fittings on my truck?
  • Do you have coil on plug type ignition or two coil packs with four cylinders per pack?
  • bucktbuckt Posts: 1
    Hey guys anyone out there have a preventative maintenance plan for the F250 & F350....pse fwd if you do...thanks a safe
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    There is a Maintenance Schedule on that might be helpful.

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  • I have a 1990 F-250, 5.8l 4x4. It usually starts with no problem, however this morning after it started, the engine died. I tried re-starting it, but the engine would just crank until I pumped the gas (this is fuel injected). The whole front end bucked, and when I took my foot off the gas, it died. It had a very rich gas smell also. A friend said I probably need an IAC valve. Does this sound right, and if so, is this something I can do on my own (where is it located?). Thanks
  • I have a 95 ford f250 4x4 that i just bought and in three months i have busted three steering gear boxes.on two of them i blew the seal on the little cap with the two bolts that sits on top.and on this last one i broke that same little cap in half.all three times it happened when i had the wheel turn all the way till it stoped.i have no idea what it could be.any help welcome thank you.
  • Is there any way to tell if my '95 F350 had a keyless entry remote at one time?
  • What is the proper torque for the oil drain plug on a 2006 4.6L engine
  • I just bought a 1993 F150 XLT reg. cab pickup. Can someone tell me where the reset switch for the fuel pump is?
  • It's in the front passenger footwell behind the right side kick panel. You've got to unscrew the door sill molding and then you can take off the kick panel. There's a module with a button on it.
  • Thanks for that.
  • What is the recommendation (and experience) of F250 (gas) owners/users on oil changes for transmission, transfer case & rear differential?
  • What year is your'250? The newer Triton engines have longer oil intervals (7.5K miles) than the older 5.0 and 5.8L engines (5K miles).

    I've got an '01 F350 V10, and a '95 F-150 - outta habit I usually change the oil at 3-4K. The F-350 Tranny interval is every 30K, but I tow, sometimes over 10K lbs, so I've changed the fluid more often. I've inadvertently overheated the tranny, gauge read about 275 degrees F, once when I got stuck in mud, and another slowing backing the trailer up a long steep hill. Changed the tranny fluid a couple days later to prevent any damage from degraded/burned fluid.

    Forget the rear and differential intervals, but they were moot for me. I managed to be stupid more than once and get stuck in water that turned out to be deeper than I thought, where water was even with floor of cab and bed. The air outlet on the rear end pumpkin was obviously submerged. Changed out the differential fluid to prevent any water damage.

    For normal use, follow the recommended intervals in the owner's manual. If you stress the vehicle like I have on occasion, change the fluids more often, it's much, much cheaper than a new tranny or rear end.
    My '350 has about 50K with virtually zero problems. My '150 is approaching 200K with original engine - no rebuilds, it's still makes good power - but tranny was rebult at 120K and is starting to bet squirrely again.
  • I have a 1998 F-150, It has a class 3 hitch w/ 7 pin wiring harness..I have are my running lights and that is it. I have checked my fuses, and they are all o.k. Does anyone know if there is a seperate fuse box for the wiring harness? Thanks for the help! :mad: :mad:
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