Ford F-Series Care and Maintenance

kurtsbrotherkurtsbrother Member Posts: 2
Is it possible for the vibration from a warped rotor to transfer to other parts ie; Idler arm bushing, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings,pitman arm bushing, steering componants, drive train and my wrists?


  • jdtopperjdtopper Member Posts: 58
    Certainly...especially if the warped rotors are on the front. My experience with front rotors is that they warp easily, within about 15,000 miles, even if you don't do any heavy braking or hauling of heavy loads.

    My opinion is that the Ford rotors are an inferior design.
  • fordtuffordtuf Member Posts: 101
    My 99F250 SD had about 45k miles when traded in.
    It had about 4 brake jobs, one included new front rotors. Definitely you will feel it in the steering wheel and in the whole truck if you let it go.
  • dre10dre10 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 V6 XLT Automatic Regular Cab Ranger with around 40,100 miles on it. I live in Chicago and I'm going to be moving to San Diego, CA late February. The trips about 2085 miles. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I sorta maintenance I should do before I head out? What's the longest I should drive before giving my Ranger a rest?

    Any help would make my move that much smoother. Thanks!
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    Some advice needed. I have a 98 XLT with the cruise controls in the steering wheel. One of the lamps went out and I can't seem to figure out on how to get at the bugger. I'm Worried on removal of the air bag housing as they can be tempermental and go off accidentally. Any suggestions would be appriciated.
  • tgallopbstgallopbs Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1992 Ranger 6cly, Auto. Just recently I experienced stalling and hard starting. Sometimes it won't start. If I give it gas it knonks out. I had a tune-up 6 months ago. I had it in the garage for 4 days and they can't figure out the problem. They changed a sensor, cost about $40, don't know which one, it didn't help. They don't think it's the fuel pump. This guy builds race cars and he can't fix it. Today, took it to a garage that has a lot of computer equip to test it. He will check it out on Monday. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Appreciate any ideas. Thanks, Tom
  • tgallopbstgallopbs Member Posts: 2
    Still having the same problem after changing the MAF Sensor. The mechanic thought it was running fine, but picked it up tonight and it's doing the same thing. I ended up leaving it for them to see inj the morning. Any suggestions?
  • bondobucketyaabondobucketyaa Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1999 f250 super duty with a 7.3L diesel. I read on anouther forum that there is a water drain on the truck. I took, that it was in the fuel line some were. Could someone tell me where it is and how often do you drain it. I don't know much about a diesel.
  • rmaxwellrmaxwell Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 f350 crew v10. The a/c has become not very cool, the pressures are h165, l 35... does that sound right?

  • gorgian38gorgian38 Member Posts: 1
    we have a 1991 f150 is stalling when it heats up. replaced the two low pressure pumps found 3 loose wires on frame! Is there a third pump to the fuel injector? or just fuel filter?
  • bkochbkoch Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 F150 and had the same vibration when braking. I replaced the rotors and still have the problem, in fact it seems like it is getting worse. The brake pads have about 2k on them could they be causing the shaking? Dealership won't give me any leads.
  • jbranumjbranum Member Posts: 2
    replace the heat sensor on thermostat housing worked for me it tells the computer that its cold vwhen its hot gets to much gas
  • jbranumjbranum Member Posts: 2
    i had same problem i moved rear tires ri front took care of problem for about six months finally had to buy major brand tires sometimes id hit brake it would shake so bad i almost has to stop i replaced rotors and pads but no help
  • slimpickensslimpickens Member Posts: 1
    What are the parts needed to convert a 1996 F-150 from 2wd to 4wd? Or is it even possible?
  • griff2griff2 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1992 F150, WITH OVER 200,000 MILES ON IT.I have done a complete tuneup on it, replaced the TPS Sensor,replaced the MAP Sensor. When the engine is cold, at startup, it runs fine. As soom as it warms up, it bogs down, and bucks,when it tries to shift into high gear.
    Does anyone have any idea what could cause this problem?
    I have run out of ideas, and patience. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!! :(
  • hokietadhokietad Member Posts: 5
    I had a misfire on cylinder 2. Replaced coil pack per instructions from advance auto guy. Misfire still there, so put original back. Truck no longer started, so put new one back on. Still will not start - get machine gun sound when I turn the key. I know the wires are connected correctly because I transferred them one at a time.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • royc1royc1 Member Posts: 1
    1993 Ford F350 Crew Cab, 4x4, 4 wheel long bed, w /7.3 pre-power stroke diesel and manual trans. When driving recently, between one brake application and the next, the pedal went from solid to soft. Braking force was still good, no fluid was lost, but under steady pressure the pedal would go to the floor. Every part in the system except steel lines has been replaced. Front Calipers, rear brakes, ABS module, booster, master cylinder, flexible lines, even the vacuum pump are all new. It is exactly like it was after whatever broke, broke. It still stops fairly well, still doesn't leak fluid, but the pedal will go to the floor under steady pressure.
    I and my mechanic are stumped. Any ideas?
  • wes8wes8 Member Posts: 1
    Are they any grease fittings on my truck?
  • junkyardjimmyjunkyardjimmy Member Posts: 4
    Do you have coil on plug type ignition or two coil packs with four cylinders per pack?
  • bucktbuckt Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys anyone out there have a preventative maintenance plan for the F250 & F350....pse fwd if you do...thanks a safe
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    There is a Maintenance Schedule on that might be helpful.
  • bigjohncbigjohnc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 F-250, 5.8l 4x4. It usually starts with no problem, however this morning after it started, the engine died. I tried re-starting it, but the engine would just crank until I pumped the gas (this is fuel injected). The whole front end bucked, and when I took my foot off the gas, it died. It had a very rich gas smell also. A friend said I probably need an IAC valve. Does this sound right, and if so, is this something I can do on my own (where is it located?). Thanks
  • lozanodelrlozanodelr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 ford f250 4x4 that i just bought and in three months i have busted three steering gear boxes.on two of them i blew the seal on the little cap with the two bolts that sits on top.and on this last one i broke that same little cap in half.all three times it happened when i had the wheel turn all the way till it stoped.i have no idea what it could be.any help welcome thank you.
  • howard15howard15 Member Posts: 2
    Is there any way to tell if my '95 F350 had a keyless entry remote at one time?
  • ccunninghamccunningham Member Posts: 3
    What is the proper torque for the oil drain plug on a 2006 4.6L engine
  • bigdog25bigdog25 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1993 F150 XLT reg. cab pickup. Can someone tell me where the reset switch for the fuel pump is?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    It's in the front passenger footwell behind the right side kick panel. You've got to unscrew the door sill molding and then you can take off the kick panel. There's a module with a button on it.
  • bigdog25bigdog25 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for that.
  • chris10son2chris10son2 Member Posts: 1
    What is the recommendation (and experience) of F250 (gas) owners/users on oil changes for transmission, transfer case & rear differential?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    What year is your'250? The newer Triton engines have longer oil intervals (7.5K miles) than the older 5.0 and 5.8L engines (5K miles).

    I've got an '01 F350 V10, and a '95 F-150 - outta habit I usually change the oil at 3-4K. The F-350 Tranny interval is every 30K, but I tow, sometimes over 10K lbs, so I've changed the fluid more often. I've inadvertently overheated the tranny, gauge read about 275 degrees F, once when I got stuck in mud, and another slowing backing the trailer up a long steep hill. Changed the tranny fluid a couple days later to prevent any damage from degraded/burned fluid.

    Forget the rear and differential intervals, but they were moot for me. I managed to be stupid more than once and get stuck in water that turned out to be deeper than I thought, where water was even with floor of cab and bed. The air outlet on the rear end pumpkin was obviously submerged. Changed out the differential fluid to prevent any water damage.

    For normal use, follow the recommended intervals in the owner's manual. If you stress the vehicle like I have on occasion, change the fluids more often, it's much, much cheaper than a new tranny or rear end.
    My '350 has about 50K with virtually zero problems. My '150 is approaching 200K with original engine - no rebuilds, it's still makes good power - but tranny was rebult at 120K and is starting to bet squirrely again.
  • rputerbaughrputerbaugh Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 F-150, It has a class 3 hitch w/ 7 pin wiring harness..I have are my running lights and that is it. I have checked my fuses, and they are all o.k. Does anyone know if there is a seperate fuse box for the wiring harness? Thanks for the help! :mad: :mad:
  • res88qe1res88qe1 Member Posts: 6
    The lights going to your plug will be with your lighting fuse in the fuse box unless someone has installed an inline fuse.

    I would think that you have a problem in the wiring of that harness, I would take it loose and make sure there are no bare wiring and check the lights and the lights should work fine, then when I re installed the wiring I would use insulted crimping items to reinstall with to keep the wiring in good shape.

    If this is factory done, Then you would just take a test light to the rear and check that plug, usually when you have something added that is usually where a problem begins.

    If I am wrong I apologize but from my experience this is correct and I work on vehicles every day.

    Thanks Friend and hope I helped you if not reply again and I will try to help further.
  • ray70ray70 Member Posts: 18
    I have a Subaru Forester. The Subaru folks recommend changing ALL FLUIDS every 30,000 miles. It sounds like a good way to maintain a vehicle, but expensive. I started using MOBILE ONE in my pickup engine at 10,000 miles. My 03 is coming up on 30,000 and I am thinking about draining and replacing all fluids. I have also been thinking about putting MOBILE ONE in both differentials and the automatic transmission. Is the added expense worthwhile??????

  • supertrooper65supertrooper65 Member Posts: 5
    i have a86' 150 super cab. wondering if any one has an exhaust diagram or scematic of the system so i can figure werwe my leak is comming from...302, 2 wheel drive..
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Is there a problem with simply listening to the vehicle to see where the exhaust is leaking?? :confuse:
  • nrqlls7nrqlls7 Member Posts: 1
    I get a five tone code that repeats five times every 30 minutes. What does that indicate?
  • mriosmrios Member Posts: 1
    My F250 has a 7.5 gas engine but I don't see it listed on the page you referenced. Actually, the only choice that comes up is a 6 cyl. If I choose "Don't know" for body type then the 5.8 comes up as the only choice. What am I doing wrong?

    I'm trying to find the engine oil capacity for my truck. Is it 5 or 6 qts. if I change the filter as well?

    Thank you very much for any help or advice.
  • betardbetard Member Posts: 1
    we are trying to find the right fuse for the windsheild wiper for a 2002 F_350 superduty. for it is raining and we cannot drive anywhere. on the fuse cover it gives numbers. if some one could just tell me the number in which it is located it would be greatly apperciated.

    signed betard :confuse: As Soon As Possible the answer to this request.
  • timbo101timbo101 Member Posts: 1
    I took my 04 f150 supercab xlt in today to have the shimmy checked, i was told to bring it back next week to replace two rotors and pads, there is a TSB on this from Ford, so if you got the shakes take her in i got 24,500 on mine and it been shaking for about 5000 now, anyway its a warrenty issue
  • superduty02superduty02 Member Posts: 2
    hi this is bard i owen a 2002 7.3l in the little bit of time that i have owned it. i devloped a vibration around 30mph and won't go away. and is it comon for the sway bar link pin bushings to go out. one more thing should a person put a cold air intake on it
  • aller85f250aller85f250 Member Posts: 1
  • paintmanpaintman Member Posts: 23
    1st try replacing your fuel filter and drain the water separator
  • fordjimfordjim Member Posts: 1
    I have a Diesel F250. The rear lights don't work when I have the headlights on. I can't find the right fuse listed in my owners manual. Can someone tell me which one to replace or even tell me where I can find the correct diagram?
  • slimed8slimed8 Member Posts: 1
    anyone know how long it takes?1995 f250 4 wd
  • michalrmichalr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02 F 150 4x4. driver seat heater died. Any info on how to repair by myself. Dealer wants $600.00 that I don't have.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    I just bought an '01 F-150 Lariat Extended cab for $12,000. It has 91,000 miles on it, and is in perfect condition. It's loaded with every option and it drives and rides like a dream.

    I was wondering if I could get opinions. Did I make a good buy?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You're looking for reassurance - because, in your heart, you worry you overpaid. Wholesale on that truck, assuming it is a 4x4 (you didn't say it was), is about $8,000. HOWEVER: Condition is not recognized in that number. If it is truly in beautiful condition - it's worth whatever you will pay for it. So, unless you bought it to flip it, don't worry about it. If you are gonna drive it a few years, you did fine.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    It is a 4x4, and actually it blue booked out at $11,449. I'm more worried about reliability and cost of maintenance with the Triton 5.4s.

    I wanted something nice and I want to make sure I have a solid truck to be driving.

  • diehardforddiehardford Member Posts: 50
    Relax and enjoy your truck. I recently traded a 2001 f150 super crew 4x4 lariat with the 5.4 for a new 2008 super duty diesel. I had 127,000 miles on truck and only reason I traded was I bought a camper that was more weight than the truck was designed to pull. Other than schedule maintenance and normal wear items ( brakes,tires etc.) the only repair I had on this truck was at 110.000 the number 8 coil went out. 50 dollars at advance auto
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well, to any car dealer in the country, Blue Book means nothing. If it's reliability and maintenance you were asking about (you didn't really ask that), RELAX! That truck is as tough as they come. The Triton engine family has won many awards from Wards Automotive year after year. They are wonderful power plants. The transmission in that truck is also very good. You should find this truck to be trouble free through 150,000 miles, and only minor needs after that. Enjoy it. You did well, IMO.
  • jlmaxjlmax Member Posts: 4
    Hi all - Would a low rumble from the rear when making a slow speed turn indicate that a flush of the rear differential is in order? If so, am I in danger of having the rear lock up on me? I had this rumble with our CRV and the flush fixed it. Thanks
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