Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair
At approx. 55 mph and faster I have a light whistling sound similiar to a tea kettle just before it goes into a full boil. I've replaced the wipers and the passenger compartment dust/pollen filter. The excessive wind noise seems to have diminished, but the whistling persists except when it is raining or the day after a car wash. Any ideas?
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Mike
i need the camber-, caster- and the toe-in angles of a 1992 PA. Can someone help me?
Mike
SUBJECT: NOISE/VIBRATION/GROWL FROM FRONT OF VEHICLE ON RIGHT TURNS OR HARD ACCELERATION (REPLACE/REPOSITION REAR TRANSAXLE MOUNT)
MODELS: 1995-98 BUICK RIVIERA, 1997-98 BUICK PARK AVENUE, 1995-98 OLDSMOBILE AURORA
CONDITION:
Some owners may comment on a noise, vibration or growl from front of vehicle during right turns or hard acceleration
CAUSE:
The rear transaxle mount may be grounded out due to a bound or twisted condition within the mount
CORRECTION:
FOR 1995-96 VEHICLES
This condition may be corrected by replacing the rear transaxle mount with a revised mount, P/N 22174976 Aurora, P/N 22174975 Riviera. See procedure below
FOR 1997-98 VEHICLES
The 1997-98 vehicles have been built with improved mounts but may still exhibit the condition if the mount is bound or twisted. This condition may be corrected by following the procedure listed below to correct the bound or twisted condition within the mount.
1995-96 G CAR
1. Raise the vehicle
2. Support the transaxle with a screwjack
3. Remove the rear transaxle mount studs
4. Using the screwjack, lower the transaxle
5. Remove the mount from the lower frame rail
6. Install the new transaxle mount to the lower frame rail
7. Raise the transaxle with the screwjack until the transaxle bracket contacts the mount. Check the mount alignment and reposition the mount as necessary to center the mount studs within the mount itself.
IMPORTANT:
The mount studs will not always be centered in the mount bracket. This is a normal condition. The mount bracket is slotted to allow for cross car build variation and should not be used to determine if the mount is positioned correctly
8. Raise the transaxle with the screwjack to fully load the mount
IMPORTANT:
Loading the mount is important because the mount studs could potentially twist in the bracket while tightening the mount nuts, creating a twist or binding condition within the mount
9. Tighten the mount nuts to 45 N.M.(33 LB.FT.)
10. Remove the screwjack and verify mount alignment
1997-98 C/G CARS
1. Raise the vehicle
2. Support the transaxle with a screwjack
3. Loosen the rear transaxle mount nuts. Do NOT fully remove the nuts
4. Using the screwjack, unload the mount by lowering the transaxle
5. Adjust or reposition the mount to eliminate any bind or twist
6. Using the screwjack, raise the transaxle until the transaxle bracket contacts the mount. Check mount alignment and reposition the mount as necessary to center the mount studs within the mount itself.
IMPORTANT:
The mount studs will not always be centered in the mount bracket. This is a normal condition. The mount bracket is slotted to allow for cross car build variation and should not be used to determine if the mount is positioned correctly
7. Raise the transaxle with the screwjack to fully load the mount
IMPORTANT:
Loading the mount is important because the mount could potentially twist in the bracket while tightening the mount nuts, creating a twisted or binding condition within the mount
8. Tighten the mount nuts to 45 N.M. (33 LB.FT.)
9. Remove the screwjack and verify mount alignment
P.S. The rear transaxle mount is the one on the left or driver's side of the vehicle (rear of transaxle), NOT the one toward the rear of the vehicle.
Is there a sensor that should be replaced? or is there some bug buildup over the sensor causing this inaccurate report?
Look for your help, anyone!
Thanks
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Is the service ngine light steady or flashing? Steady means there's a problem with a code stored in memory and flashing means a serious problem that needs to be seen and fixed.
If your car is as serious as you sound, it needs to be diagnosed with a code scan and then fixed. It could be transmission. Stuttering sounds like wires and plugs need replaced with quality replacements--not pop culture stuff from the box stores. Get AC Delco plugs and AC Delco wires or Belden from NAPA. Get Original Equipment quality on the wires. If they haven't been replaced in 60K miles, they're due. If could be ignition coils. It could be the ESC that controls the ignition coils (I believe it's right under them).
It could even be your battery and connections at the battery not supplying adequate voltage. There are many connections to remove, clean, and check. When was the battery last replaced? Does the voltage drop into the orange zone during cranking on the voltage gauge inside the car? It should stay up in the clear area meaning the battery is supplying enough power under load.
You didn't mention number of miles or kilometers and any history on the car. Are there any other symptoms? Losing water out of the reserve tank? Overheating?
It could
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I drive this car about 2-3 times per week sometimes less. How important is it that I get this checked out? I'd prefer to just drive it and ignore it until I noticed it underperforming...etc. Plse advise.
Did you recently put in gas? The car checks for the seal on the pollution system that captures the evaporating gasoline hydrocarbon vapors when the motor is lukewarm and restarted. Also the gas tank needs to be between 3/4 and 1/4 full IIRC.
You can check the rubber seal around the cap and the area where it contacts the metal filler tube. Sometimes the metal filler tube collects a brown scudacrud. I cleaned mine with petroleum jelly. That helps soften the rubber seal on the cap. Replace and drive car til temp gauge starts up from bottom. Stop car for few minutes. Then restart; that may trigger a recheck for fuel vapor leaks. Mine turned off two times when I did that. A first time I took it to the dealer--they didn't tell me not flashing wasn't emergency--and there was a broken hose where it attached to the charcoal filter under the air intake area in engine compartment. They may just have resealed the filler cap.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The "leveling" lamp dash indicater lights,
I can hear the air compressor start under the hood. the compressor runs for about 2 seconds before blowing a fuse. Please advise thank you
I think I am abought to buy a 95 Park Ave for a "work vehicle" and would
like some advice on what might be wrong with the AC. Also would like a guess on
the potential costs to repair the problem if any of you folks are familiar with
this car.
The AC blows cold air just fine, but the clutch on the compressor is constantly
cycling(disengaging/engaging). The fellow already had it charged with freon and
it seemed like it solved the problem at first but the compressor started cycling
again about every two seconds.
Its not a deal breaker(I love this car), but I would like an idea of what the problem
and the cost to repair might be.
Thanks for any help.
Bert
Any ideas? How hard is it to get at the needle to move it back around? I tried a magnet but all that did was clear all my other electronic gauges.
Thanks for any ideas..........
Searching the web for key words with park ave may find other discussions about this problem.
EDIT: ann16, "Buick Park Avenue" #329, 11 May 2006 10:37 am
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Bob
If you are in a cold climate where the car is below freezing and the battery is completely discharged, the battery may have frozen. You may have a bad battery in other words.
You may want to look into a trickle charger for your battery and charge it up slowly. The jump will start the motor but the battery needs a substantial amount of drive and run time to slowly build back up with the alternator.
There's a possibility if your battery is a few years old that being completely run down may affect how long it lasts. So watch your gauges for normal behavior on voltage and charging after the first hour or so of driving time.
Another alternative would be to take the battery out and take it somewhere like Advance Auto. Here they will recharge your battery free and check it's serviceability--in the hopes that if defective you'll buy one of their replacements.
I believe your battery under the rear seat like my 03 LeSabre. You just lift up on the rear seat cushion at the front...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Bob
I believe there are two electrical circuits that need contact to keep the cruise working. There are two connections on the brake pedal switches. IIRC my cruise quit and the dealer replaced the mechanical box and it still released again after a while. Then they found there were two switches. Either replaced or adjusted the switches. I had studied the circuits in the factory service manual and couldn't quit figure it out. It seemed like they were duplicating part of the circuit. But after they said there were two circuits then it made sense...
I have a 93 service manual if you can wait a couple of days until I can dig it out.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I need to know how to get to the A/C filter down by the accelerator. The Owner Manual says it can be replaced or discarded, but I can't tell if I have to remove screws to get to it or if there is a door of some kind. Any help appreciated. Al albarrs@wfeca.net Florida :confuse:
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue and the front ashtray will not stay closed (up). Any ideas on how to fix this? Since I don't use the ashtray, I would prefer not looking at it all the time. Thanks for your help!
1992 Park Ave in OKC
Thanks
I have had this same issue on my 1998 Park Avenue. The problem is that the latch is broken on the ash tray assembly itself. There is a little tang on the ashtray that compresses a catch in the dashboard-side of the mechanism to hold the door up. It cannot be repaired by replacing the tang so you 'll need to replace the entire door assembly. I have done this and had the door break again! Poor design. I have yet to locate another good one but keep trying at on-line junk yards. The dealer wants about $75 to fix it and repair shops won't touch it saying, "that's a dealer item". In the meantime the ashtray hangs open! The next time I fix it I am not going to use the ashtray at all for fear it will break again.
Best of luck to you!
GMC
Since the turned off the car and let it sit, there probably is coolant that had gone into the intake area, onto the valves, and coolant probably was in the oil. The coolant going in after you turned off the motor has probably filled a combustion chamber and hydrolocked the motor. Or if it is turning over, the plugs may have coolant on them keeping them from firing.
The upper intake is repairable for $500 and less at a local good mechanic. Your major concern is that the coolant in the oil may have damaged the bearings due to the acidic nature while sitting.
The overheating may be just because the coolant in the radiator was low and should have been refilled. PUtting it into the overflow reservoir doesn't get it back into the radiator immediately.
You need to have the car towed and checked out if you don't do repairs yourself.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Any suggestion on what may be causing this?
Most likely is crankshaft position sensor which doesn't seem to clearly show up in codes from what I've read on other sites.
I believe someone suggested spraying water on the sensor area behiind the crank pulley at 3 o'clock as a test. That cools it down. You might try visually locating the sensor first.
Is the fuel pump still pumping when the turn the key on? It should pump for a few seconds then shut off. Is there fuel at the Schrader valve on the motor on the fuel lines? Use a cloth to catch gas and see if it's as highly pressurized as when the car first starts or if it's lost pressure.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Because I've heard about bearing damage from running a motor with a leak too long in other discussions, I'd recommend having someone check about what's happening. I hope there isn't damage. The good news is the motor isn't hydrolocked (cylinder filled with coolant) because it seems to be turning over. Hydrolocked motors break starters and do other damage.
Not starting sounds like a friend's car I helped with that had coolant on plugs from an intake that was leaking and repaired. It wouldn't start up after the 4 days because the plugs were wet.
The chugging sort of diesel like sounds like his car before he replaced the upper manifold.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thank you for the help. We check the ign. module first and it was o.k. Pump and relay were good. The car is OBDll so it does require a scanner so we could not jump the circuit. So, after about 4 hours of trial and error we purchase the crankshaft position sensor and we were going to install it Sunday, When my son said he saw one message on another site were a man used the replacement key (2nd set of keys) to start/run the veichle. He was having a similar problem. Like that would be the problem. But, go ahead and try.
So far the car has not stalled and runs great. I did not know that the chip within the keys could go bad, Or is this just a fluke.
I have the old mount and don't think that there is anything wrong with it. I have mot been able to find any specifications for the mount (GM was no help at all!). Does anyone know of a way to check the old mount other than to remove the one that they put in and compare it to the old one?
Thanks.