Toyota Sienna Care & Maintenance

xgai

Momofthree, thank your for your suggestion. I live in Fairfax VA. I replaced my fuel tank in a newer and bigger dealership. Can you give me the the contact number where you have your fuel tank replaced? You can email me the information at xiaoping.gai@cox.net.
Thank you in advance!

behrend1

I'm still having problems locating the fuel filter.jtlanejr said it was under the air filter housing. I looked there, but still didn't see it. Is it attached to the firewall? Whats the best way to get to it?

behrend1

Regarding 2001 Toyota Sienna.

I just pulled my front tires off, and I noticed that the wheel studs are seperate from the rotor/hub assembly. What I mean is, there is a small amount of play between the wheel studs and the rotor. I'm not sure if this is normal, because it seems to me that the holes in the rotor where the wheel studs go through would tend to stretch out over time. Both of my front rotors are like this. Does anyone know if this is normal?

kinct

Just bought an 04 Sienna.

Noticed the oil change interval at 5k/7.5k miles.

I am a long-time oil change fanatic (helps keep those engines running smoothly!). I've also seen these stories of people keeping Previas running for ages (and that's my goal w/ Sienna).

When would you do the first oil change in the Sienna? I was thinking 2000 miles for the initial change, going w/ full Synthetic oil (5w30) for use all the time. All additional changes coming at 5k mile intervals.

Also, can you get aftermarket filters for the 04 Sienna? I have always used Fram filters, with great results, but I didn't see any available. Are you all just using Toyota filters?

Thx

its_done

On #106, Yes, it's normal for that type of brake design. The rotors are loose and you can take them off by removing the two brake caliper mounting bolts. I used to have a 94 caravan and it has the same design. The rotors are secured when the wheel lug nuts are tighten.

jtlanejr

On my '99 LE, the fuel filter is under the air filter housing, bolted to the frame - just on the inside of area where the strut is. You should be able to see it from looking up, just behind the left front suspension. It was easier for me to pull the entire air cleaner box to get a wrench on each side of the filter.

32valveuser

Congratulations on your new car and welcome to the board.

I have a 2001 Sienna LE with 36,400+ miles. I do my own oil changes like you. I get the filter for $3.49 at the dealer(when on sale). So I stock up. I mainly do this because the power train warrwanty goes up to 60,000 mile. Just playing it safe and $3.49 is a good price. The job is a snap. I always use standard oil in my car's and change at 3000 miles.

I would do the first oil change at 500 mile's. Then stay with standard oil for a year or 10,000 miles and then switch to synthetic. 5,000 miles sounds good after that as long as you do daily driving at highway speed for at least twenty minutes. If you do a lot of short trips like us you may want to adjust that 5,000.

Good luck with your new car.

kinct

Well, already missed the 500 mile mark, so 2000 it'll have to be. That's my Saturday morning adventure!

Thx for the advice

ny007

Just got my 04 Sienna LE with alloy wheel. I noticed that there is no balancing weight on the wheel. Is this right? All my cars in past has this though. How can you balance the wheel without the weight? I checked another Sienna on dealer's lot does not have the weight either. Should dealer balance the wheel (and add the weight) when prepare the van? What about your van?

kinct

Just wanted to remark on my first 04 Sienna oil change. I did it at 2000 miles. The "old" oil looked great. For any other new Sienna owners out there, I think you could easily go 3000 miles on the first oil change. I know Toyota says 5 or 7.5k miles, but for oil change fanatics, that doesn't cut it...

Not hard to do overall. The filter position is a little clumsy, but I may try a different wrench for the filter next time. I used one of the offset wrenches that wraps around the filter and compresses. I think the type that is more like a giant "socket wrench" might work better.

Definitely liked the little piece of metal that helps channel the oil down into the drain pan from the filter. That is a nice touch.

mrfong1

Kinct, I'm sure everything is fine at 2000 or 3000 miles for the 1st change. Similar to 32valveuser I changed at 500 miles (I have a 2000 Sienna w/ 70K). Being interested I decanted the oil to look for particulate matter, being bored I cracked open the original filter to examine what had filtered out. In both cases their were fine metal shavings. Now I'm sure those metal shavings are present in any engine that is breaking in, but somehow it felt good to get them out. I change every 3000 miles and use the Toyota filters. Dont burn any oil between changes and milage is the same as when the van was new.

Good luck!

deepan

i have a 00 seinna with 64k kms and i change the oil every 4 months or 4k kms which ever comes first.
I also have a 87 camry that goes in every 3 months with less than 3000kms on. Very cheap insurance i might add.

turdfergusson2

PLEASE TELL ME IF U EVER FIGURED OUT THE NOISE. I HAD MY TANK REPLACED & I HAVE THAT SOUND BUT OF COURSE IT DOESN'T DO IT WHEN THE TECH IS AROUND. WHAT IS IT???

mrfong1

I have had an intermittant problem with the power sliding door on my 2000 Sienna. Sometimes is "sticks" in the open position. When I push the remote and/or any door switch I hear a "click" which is presumably a relay but the door just sits there. I have to wrestle with it in order to get it to close. Any ideas on how to fix?

rss68

We'll be picking up our new '04 Sienna next weekend from out of town, and I was wondering what grade of motor oil the Owner's Manual recommends. By the time we get home, I'll have a good 350 highway miles on it and wanted to change the oil right away. Is it 5W-30? I was thinking of going with Castrol synthetic blend for the next 1500 or so, then switching to full synthetic (Mobil 1) for good. Recommendations?

kinct

Yes, Toyota requires 5w30. I went with full synthetic at my first change (1986 miles). No harm in using a regular oil or blend for only 1500 miles. I use synthetics to stretch out the change intervals to 5000 miles. With regular oils, I would change every 3000 miles.

There was a lengthy discussion of oil changes under Toyota Sienna 2004+ just recently.

Personally, I think changing the oil after 350 miles is overkill. When I did my first oil change at nearly 2000 miles, the oil looked great - still nice & amber, no signs of metal shavings (there HAS to have been some, must have been captured by the filter). I would guess that you could easily push the first change out to 3000 miles.

32valveuser

I have had my 2001 with the power door back for service 5 times. The dealer would be your best bet. They will charge you 1-2 hours for labor to look at the car. Then any parts and more labor. It sounds worst than it is. The one thing you WANT to do is turn the system off by the door switch located on the dash; left side of the wheel. This will turn your door into the easy to use mode no more wrestling. You can use the door like this until you get it fixed. Keep us informed on what you find out if you can

dooper67

Does anyone know if there is a service for returning lost keys so the finder can just throw the key into a mailbox. With the replacement cost of the electronic key and the remote so high, it might be good to have. I thought AAA would offer something like this, but I didn't see it on their website.

paul7256

My wife and I are buying a 2002 Sienna with 28,000 miles on it. It is a Toyota Certified used vehicle and in great shape. We have a warranty on the powertrain until 2007 or 2008, I can't remember which, but the dealer is trying to persuade us to buy a warranty on the rest of the vehicle. We have never been extended warranty people on anything. Should we or shouldn't we? Any help will be appreciated.

     Thanks,

     Paul

mayerofrf

My vote on the additional coverage is no. A good majority of the discussions are usually powertrain related, which it sound like you're covered for a while. The only issue I have run into is a power window switch going out and tire edge wear. Other than that, I think this vehicle is mechanically sound. Just keep up on the scheduled maintenance. The dealerships sure do like to push the additional coverage, don't they.

kinct

...are just a financial game (a.k.a. insurance). They are made to make money ON AVERAGE for the seller ("insurer").

Yes, you might get "lucky" and "make out" on running into extensive & expensive repairs, but chances are greater that the dealer will take you to the cleaners.

Save the added expense from the additional warrantee and put it towards real repairs (and, better yet, preventative maintenance).

jtlanejr

I personally would skip the extended warranty, but if you really are leaning towards it, you can purchase the same Toyota warranty from toyotawarranty.com at a discount - at least get the dealer to match the price.

scoti1

If the 2002 Sienna you are looking at was manufactured earlier than around Apr. 02 (not sure on the date, check with Toyota) then you have additional coverage on the engine. There is an 8 year (from date of original purchase) unlimited mile coverage on the engine for engine sludge.

pn6

Is there a way to remove the oil filter in the Sienna without spilling the used oil remaining in it? I've tried doing it parked uphill, putting papers and stuff under it; no matter what I try I have not been able to remove it from the stub on the engine it mounts on without dumping the contents. Any help appreciated.

jtlanejr

I have not found a good way, given the location of the filter. I normally change it first thing in the morning so there is the least amount of oil in the top end of the engine.

I guess we should be thankful that Toyota didn't put it just above the exhaust manifold or some other worse position.

kinct

I've done a whopping one oil change on ours so far, but I don't recall it being *that* messy. The 04 Sienna has a neat little metallic channel under the filter that nicely dumps the oil into your waiting oil change pan.

Overall, I found it not bad. No annoying plastic shielding that has to be removed (like 99 VW Passat and 93 Volvo 245 wagon). The position of the filter is a little clumsy for normal filter wrenches. So, I bought a cup wrench to help out... Actually looking forward to the next oil change to try it out.

One little tidbit I also tried - someone else recommended using a plastic bag as you screw off the filter - let the oil pour into the bag. Worked really well on the Passat, marginal help on the Sienna.

eomckamey

I take a sharp tool (short ice-pick type) and carefully punch a hole in the exposed end of the filter...toward the top portion. Such allows much of the oil contained in the filter...to drain out of the filter...down into the engine oil pan. I still place a rag down around the filter...where it meets the engine to help absorb any oil once filter unscrewed.

Just my opinion...but repeated oil soaking of the engine mount rubber cover (in the area below the filter) is not a good thing.

mercier1

Has anyone purchased a shop manual from a Toyota dealership to assist in repairing their Sienna? If so, are you satisfied with your decision? I am considering doing my own scheduled maintenance because of the high cost of dealer shop rates.

2004 Toyota Sienna XLE
1996 Volvo 850 GLT
1991 Toyota Extended Cab 4x4

jtlanejr

You have to order the manual from an 800 number. I don't think the dealer sells it. I got a CD from Mitchell Repair, www.mitchell1.com, which has all Toyota models on it. I have a '99 Sienna and a '96 T-100, both of which are coverd on the CD.

kinct

For the 04 Sienna....

I bought the shop manual with the same general intentions (doing _some_ of the work myself).

They can be ordered through the parts dept at the dealer, but it will take (much) longer to get. The books are expensive (roughly $250-$270 for both). You have to get both. The first is diagnostics and preparation (this is the one I got). The second is the actual procedure. Haven't bought that one yet (but I intend to).

Little things like the oil change don't require a manual. Really easy...

I don't know how serious you intend to get with the repairs. From the looks of it, I intend to let Toyota do the spark plug replacement (3 easy, 3 hard).

lunarmist

I have a 2002 Symphony LE whose front struts seem to have quite a bit of rust. Can other owners verify the same symptom. lift up the rubber "boot" that covers the piston inside the springs and you should see an excessive amount of rust on the top of the strut where the piston enters the strut. Should I have a concern ? It has 22,000 miles

carnut36

I recently had my 60k mile service and my 1998 van had red coolant when I purchased it. When I got the van back, the dealer put green coolant in it. They told me that's the only kind of coolant that they use now. They do sell the red coolant at the parts department though. Is it a problem if they use the green stuff? I thought the red coolant had some special additives.

carnut36

When I brought this to the attention of the service advisor, he just told me that's the only coolant they use in all of their cars. Well what could I do? They certainly charged me the price of the red coolant. I didn't want to make a scene at the time so I contacted Toyota via their website and asked them about this issue. Maybe there is a silicate-free Green coolant that I don't know of because I'm no mechanic, just a concerned consumer. Toyota Corp. replied within a day and recommended that the red coolant be used. They also told me that this issue was referred to my dealership and the dealership would be contacting me.

That same day, a customer service manager called me to ask me what the problem was, I asked her why I didn't get the Red coolant and if the green coolant was silicate-free. She went to ask the service advisors, and when the customer service mgr. came back she said they would change my coolant to the red type free of charge if it would make me feel better. Note that there is no admission of guilt nor answer to my silicate question. Needless to say, I'm scheduled to have my coolant changed. Most likely, it will be the last time I visit that dealership.

I'm not here to slam any dealership but if anyone wants to know, it's located in Tustin, CA. Consumer beware!!!

buckeye1

for the information. Let me guess: the green stuff is cheaper than the red stuff?

I'm just a bit further south in San Clemente, and have completely eliminated Family Toyota from my service calls for two Toyotas we own. The last straw was their "estimate" on "needed" maintenence amounting to several thousand dollars. I took same vehicle to Carlsbad Toyota and they gave me an optional maintenence suggestion amounting to 125 Bucks. I found Family Toyota to routinely try to encourage rather needless service on several occasions prior to writing service manager and telling him that his operation was merely churning customers.

Ya gotta watch some of these cowboys...

slc2000

I have a 2000 Sienna XLE with 73K miles. When does the timing belt need to be changed? How much does that generally run?

Any info would be helpful.

freebird

The timing belt should be changed at 90,0000 miles. At my dealer, the charge is $219. I would also suggest that you have the accessory belts changed at the same time - no additional charge for labor.

69flh

Just did the 30,000 mile maintenance on my 2002 Sienna. The manual only calls for transmission and differential fluid change, no screen mentioned. At what interval do you recommend cleaning the screen?

freebird

I have never seen a maintenance schedule for the transmission screen. The normal/heavy usage schedule found in my Mitchell Repair manual suggest 30,000 miles.

I drop the pan and clean the screen every 30,000 miles. The screen is completely metal, so you just have to clean it. After the pan is dropped I will normally drain and fill at least twice, sometimes 3 times to change up to 88% of the fluid. Cost: $14 for fluid and $8 for a pan gasket. I have also found that it is worthwhile to change the pan and differential washer. Mine will tend to leak if I reuse it several times.

Every 15,000 miles, I drain and fill the fluid twice. This changes 75% of the fluid and costs me $9 and a little time. This is probably overkill, but it is my money and my time, and I know that it will not hurt anything.

Probably the 30,000 pan interval is best for most drivers. If you tow a lot, the I would drop the pan more often.

69flh

Any tricks to getting the screen down? Is there a gasket between the screen and trans?

freebird

If my memory serves me - there are 2 or 3 10mm bolts holding the screen. Once it is removed, have a catch pan ready because you will get a pint or so of fluid drain from the top end of the transmission. There is also an O-ring that seals the screen - it is on the top of the screen. I would replace this O-ring if it is not soft and pliable.

ohres

I am not sure whether it is similar to my experience on my 2000 T&C AWD or not. The T&C came with a pink coolant as a part of towing option. Ones without towing pkg may have green coolant (96 Caravan had green). When they serviced the engine, they drained the pink and put the green coolant, ignoring the warnings posted in the engine compartment. I contact the service manager about the issue and they replaced it with the pink one. I guess the pink one might be a more heavy duty coolant. I also noticed that the brake fluid is also different with the towing pkg on T&C.

jablonka1

K & N Performance filters have finally made a filter for the 2004 vans. The K&N part number is 33-2219.

Have any of you replaced the standard toyota filter with the high performance K&N air filter?

freebird

You may want to check into K&N filters before you go with one. Some studies show that the K&N "increased flow capacity" also allows more dust to get into your intake system. Just imagine what that can do to a throttle body....

jablonka1

When washing my 2004 van, I usually lift "ALL" the wiper blades in order to clean the glass. When I attempted to lift the rear wiper blade, it would not lift. I was told at the dealership that only the front blades lift. This could be a problem if the car wash folks attempt to lift the rear blade,since the rear blade is attached to the glass. This is my tip of the day!

jablonka1

When I first start my Sienna in the morning, a loud squeal is heard from the engine compartment.
I never notice it during subsequent start ups. Could this be a problem area?

freebird

My guess would be a loose belt.

fast_sk8er

I had a similar problem on my '96 Grand Caravan (before I got my 04 Sienna AWD XLE Ltd.) Turned out that rainwater was collecting on a belt because of a missing waterhose (that was supposed to route rain and wash water from the body AROUND this belt) and caused it to squeal when first cranking the engine. The water would be thrown off/evaporate and the sound would be gone until the next rain storm or washing.

ski

I have also had a problem with engine squeal at start-up, but have isolated down to the air conditioner, ie, only happens when the AC is on or when I first turn it on, then goes away after a few seconds. Had all the belts replaced last year (at the dealership), still does it. A non-Toyota mechanic told me that it could be because all belts these days are made from recycled material. Another told me it may be a bearing in the alternator with the extra load of the AC, doubt it. Haven't tried spraying anything in there yet. Living with a few seconds of squeal now and then until I can figure it out. Ski.

j. puglisi

I have a 04 Sienna. Does anyone know where the oil filter is located on this car? I spent a good 5 minutes underneath and still couldn't find it. Thanks.

ski

I have also had a problem with engine squeal at start-up, but have isolated down to the air conditioner, ie, only happens when the AC is on or when I first turn it on, then goes away after a few seconds. Had all the belts replaced last year (at the dealership), still does it. A non-Toyota mechanic told me that it could be because all belts these days are made from recycled material. Another told me it may be a bearing in the alternator with the extra load of the AC, doubt it. Haven't tried spraying anything in there yet. Living with a few seconds of squeal now and then until I can figure it out. Ski.