Wheel Alignment

burrsr

I have a 2001 Z3 2.5 that was rear-ended while parked in the street several months ago. It was 100% restored by a top-notch mechanic (to the tune of $8,000+, thank you insurance!). Everything is great EXCEPT one minor complaint: when tracking perfectly straight, the steering wheel points to the right by about 2 degrees. The car does not pull to either side under hard acceleration, hard braking, or coasting conditions, and the mechanic ensured me that all alignment, frame, and suspension components are back to factory standards.

My question is this: is there a simple steering rod adjustment that can be done to return the steering wheel to its normal straight-ahead position? Or does (as my dealer told me) an alignment need to be performed? I tend to believe the former, since the mechanic did this once, but I want to be better informed, since I am no expert on rack-and-pinion steering system adjustments.

Thanks in advance.

alcan

Rear wheel toe is probably not optimized, causing the vehicle to dog track.

fleetwoodsimca

What about the old saw, where if the alignment is set with the steering wheel slightly positioned to "left turn" or counterclockwise, then both front wheels are in essence slightly set to the right turn direction? In recirculating ball systems, you could adjust the toe in and toe out of the wheels the same amount to the left and not lose your alignment, but get the steering wheel more dead ahead.

alcan

Because it was hit in the rear, I'd still be looking at rear thrust angle (rear toe) first.

mrdetailer

After years of frustration I finally found someone who always gets alignments right. I have a couple of cars that are definitely out of line even though they are shown to be within specs before alignment. When my shocks were replaced recently I had the road crown problem. Any crown in the road and it wouldn't hold a straight line. The replacement shop aligned it after the repair and after I brought it in for adustment all without extra cost. Still didn't work. The response was that it was clearly in specs. Then I took it back to the shop that always gets it in line. I had to pay, but it's now right.

Oh, yeah, this is the only shop that has been able to get it aligned property since I purchased the car. It had a fender bender in the front before I purchased it for $2,000, so I know that this one is particularly difficult.

oldharry

It can be changed by adding a little toe in on the side that the wheel spoke is up, and taking of the same amount on the side that's down. Mark the rods with a crayon or paint stick so you get the same amount on each side. Mark both pieces, if one is hard to turn it's easy to lose track of how far you turned it. For two degrees you will only be turning about an eight turn on each rod.

I had cars in that the steering wheel position changed that much rotating the tires and making no other change. Cross the front tires (non directional tread only) and the position may self correct or reverse.

Harry

fleetwoodsimca

But keep in mind that crossing radial ply tires can be a definitive no-no and may force you to reverse the procedure to correct the tolerability of the ride.

oldharry

Tire manufacturers have recommended the "modifies X" rotation patern for all season radials. Rear drive cars bring the rears straight forward and cross the front to the rear, the opposite for front drive. The very light rear ends on non-driven wheels can cause a rough wear patern called "free rolling wear" if this proceedure is not followed with agressive tread tires.

Not crossing radials was the norm when they first appeared, as the twisted cables of wire sometimes lost their bond to the rubber with rotation. By May of 1981 tire manufacturers had switched to "crimped" wires in the belts, and the problem was mostly solved.

"Crimped" wires look like wires from a twisted cable that has been unwound. The advantages included all sides of all wires have a significant layer of rubber bond to them, and the crimp allows some"give" to the belt without tearing rubber loose from the steel.

BMW used to recommend not rotating tires at all, because even though there may be some uneven wear, handling may change as a result of rotation. I am not sure what they now advise.

Harry

fleetwoodsimca

About two years ago, I did a very normal rotation of steel belted tires on my Geo Prizm in which I X'd in accordance with the owners manual. In less than 200 miles I had to change back, to make the ride tolerable. I ran the tires on out, and they were very low-mile compared to the rating on them. I got some "warranty" on the early demise.

oldharry

If you went too long before the first rotation, the "free rolling" wear pattern could cause terrible vibration when you moved the tires. A lot depends on the tires, some never develop bad wear patterns no matter how you rotate or not. Most tires last longest if rotated evry 7500 miles or less.

Harry

futbolref

I recently purchased a used 1998 Honda Accord EX coupe V6. I will be mounting & balancing 4 new tires (Dunlop SP Sport A2 P205/60HR16). The mechanic that replaced the timing belt also examined the suspension and commented that the vehicle has been "lowered" with after-market springs. Everything is tight and he did not see any need to replace the springs with OEM Honda springs. The mechanic also suggested that I need to have a "custom" alignment (both front & rear) that will not use the original factory settings for the alignment. His concern is that if original factory settings are used I will experience greater tire wear, including cupping. The mechanic suggested that I will need to locate a shop that understands this and will perform "customized" alignments. My neighborhood Goodyear shop (used for 26 years) can only set their alignment adjustments to original factory settings.

Is this correct? The car has 127,250 miles and I plan to keep the vehicle 3 or 4 years. How would I locate a shop that can handle a customized alignment or is this just some "car-tech" talk?

Puzzled.

alcan

'98 Accord does not have any alignment adjustment other than toe setting. Read this from Specialty Products:

http://www.specprod.com/TECH_DIR/TECH_SUPPART_CAMBER.HTML

futbolref

I have copied website page and will discuss the issue with two different shops. Thank you.

alcan

You're welcome. Good luck with it, your tires will thank you. )

shmang

I have heard that it is very easy to get the alignment off by hitting a pothole or hitting the curb while parking. If this is the case, what will happen if you drive a car (not performance oriented) with a little bit off (say, the steering wheel will shake a little bit when the hand is not on it and it will pull to the side like change a lane in about 100 ft ).

Will this become worse with time - I understand this might develop an uneven tire wear, but other than that, anything else to worry about?

The reason for the question is: It is very time comsuming to do the alignment and it is so easy to get it off. Is it worth to adjust all the small offset on alignment or you can live with it without further damage?

Thanks.

alcan

The steering wheel shake is a bent rim or damaged tire. Get it fixed.

oldharry

Some years ago, I read in one of the trade magazines that General Motors was interested in the pothole/alignment relationship. What they did was make a lane slab on their proving ground, and saw a groove across it so that it would be run over by one wheel. Then they ran various cars over it at various speeds, and rechecked the alignment. First test were with a very narrow slot, then they kept widening the slot to simulate a larger chuck hole. Their test holes were about six inches deep with verticle edges!

Tires blew, and wheels bent before there was significant alignment change. Of course they hit all holes going staight ahead, so it did not duplicate real world results. Changes in alignment, are most often parts wearing, springs settling, bushing taking a set, and parts being reshaped by many thousands of small impacts over tens of thousands of miles.

On most cars and trucks, hitting a hole in the road does knock the alignment off enough to measure.

Harry

shmang

Alcan, you are correct. It turns out to be a defected tire that developed a bubble. Replaced the tire and all problem solved.