Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

ateixeira

Glad I could help. You're welcome. :-)

Get an insurance quote. You can call your agent even from the dealer. You only live once.

The OBS is nice too, though. And compared to a Matrix or Vibe AWD (123hp), you'll enjoy the extra power.

-juice

goldencouple1

One of the reasons that my wife and I chose the Forester was the height of the roof. Forester was a good compromise of ground clearance and roof height -- good clearance, lower roof.

And man did that pay off when we finally put a bike rack on top of the car! Lindsey, my wife, and I are both just a tad (a tad being about 1/4 of an inch in this case) under 6 feet tall, and we are just tall enough to get the bikes on (working together, a four armed monster). If our vehicle were any higher we'd have to stand on something or get a rack for the back. The Forester is perfect -- just the right height, but it could not be any higher -- as stated. The WRX, Impreza, or Outback Sport would be a little lower, and therefore easier to deal with bikes-on-top wise.

It must be noted that the other vehicles in this discussion are taller than the Forester -- and not as convenient as a result.

kens

bit,

Did you have any trouble getting the plug undone on the rear diff? I tried it on my Forester and couldn't budge it. I believe you typically need a breaker bar to get it loose.

Ken

originalbitman

No problem with the plug but I did use a breaker bar.

I spent too much time reading posts and tech articles on Cobb's site. Cobb recommends no friction additives for either the diff or the tranny. They sell Redline 75W-90NS for both. Redline (both on their site and when I spoke to a tech on phone) recommend the 75W-90 for the diff as they do for all LSDs and still recommend the NS for the tranny. They are aware if situations where the use of NS in the tranny has caused synchro problems for some but do not believe it is the lack of friction modifiers that are at falt. They say that in a situation where the synchros are damaged already OR where gear changes are harsher than the transaxle was meant to handle the result CAN be distructive because of the slipperiness of the NS.

bit

ateixeira

It's a 1/2" drive, right? I wonder if a long shaft torque wrench could budge it. Maybe not, IIRC it's sealed with some type of epoxy.

-juice

originalbitman

Mine had some of the epoxy but was pretty easy to break loose with my 18" breaker bar.

bit

kens

I remember attaching a 1/2" drive to my ratchet and spending 30 minutes trying to break free that plug. I finally gave up and decided to let the dealer change the rear diffy oil.

bit -- did you use any kind of epoxy to reseal the plug?

Ken

paisan

Just use a socket with a sledge. That's what we did on the XT6.

-mike

paisan

Redline is GL5 which has addatives in it that breakdown brass synchros. GL4 is required in most MT trannies. Subarus Requre the GL5 therefore the Redline stuff is fine. However you don't need the LSD fluid for the rear on subies cause they are not mechanical but are liquid LSDs.

-mike

originalbitman

Used a little teflon sealer though.

bit

cploeg

I bought a new Forester in March. My first Subaru. I bought it from a Seattle dealer since the only dealer in Anchorage wasn't making any deals. I figure I saved about $3,000.

Everything was great driving it home on the Alcan, but after that, I've been having problems. I left it in the garage for 4 days, and had a dead battery. I mean DEAD, not even a click. I assumed it was my fault and I that must have left something on (I don't know what though). So I had the car jump-started and continued using it. The battery wouldn't hold a charge if I didn't drive the car DAILY.

So I took it to the local dealer -- the only dealer in town. They told me there was nothing wrong and recharged my battery.

Everything was okay until I left the car at the airport garage for 6 days. I returned to a dead battery.

Once I got the car home again, I called my local dealer. They said that if I'm going to leave the car without driving it for a while, I should disconnect the negative battery cable. SIX DAYS?!?!?!???!? and I need to disconnect the battery cable?!?!?!?!? If it's true, this is totally unacceptable.

Am I getting dealer bushwhah or has anyone else heard of this? I thought you only disconnected the battery cable when you where storing the car for several months or more.

Thanks,
Cheryl

cploeg

Again, I bought a new car in Seattle, but live in Anchorage. At the time I bought my car, I also bought a service package. Seemed like a pretty good deal to me and Subaru assured my my Alaska dealer would honor it.

I get to Alaska, take the car in and the Alaska dealer is NOT pleased to honor my service agreement, but they do it. They also say they don't sell the service package.

So, I have car problems and call for an appointment. They tell me it will be a WEEK before I can get an appointment. I have never had to wait a week for a mechanic before.

Is this normal for Subaru dealers? Are they this busy (if so, what's wrong with the cars that they are so busy), or just understaffed.

Or am I dealing with "only dealer in town" syndrome?

I'm wishing I hadn't bought the service package, because otherwise I'd just go to my local mechanic instead of being held hostage by the Subaru dealer.

Thanks,
Cheryl

rangerron7

I ordered a case of oil filters, two air filters and two cabin filters from Liberty Sube in Oradell. I sent a letter along with one of my Subaru/MBNA points certificates and 6 business days later recieved my items. They billed my credit card for the amount in excess of my points certificate. No fuss, no hassle and great service from the parts manager (Russ or Ray??).
Thanks for the tip guys.
Ron

stevek

Looking for a bug deflector for my Legacu 01 GT (same deflector as the outback). But I want a clear one so I can paint it (on the inside) the same color as the car is. Any ideas where to look for one?

celica115

I have my MY02 WRX for 11 months and I have two problems. I want to know if anyone of you have the same issus. Inside the car is too noise no matter it is driving or stopping. I can hear the engin noise from the car beside me when stop in red light. Is there anyway to improve it? Also, car is hard to start once a while no matter it is winter or summer. I called to the customer support by (800)SUBARU3 and she said it happened on 98-00's Forster because of the air flow sensor.

kevin111

That is wierd, my car is actually pretty quiet. I have a little bit of road noise, but virutally no wind noise. I do admit that I usually crank up the stereo. With the stereo off, the car is usually very quiet.

Also with the air flow sensor, I assume this is covered under warrantee.

cploeg - with dealers, I have noticed that you have to make appointments as well. Sometimes it will be over a week before you can bring it in. If they are the only Subaru dealer in town, they just might be that busy.
What I would recommend is drop the car at the dealer in the morning, unannounced, and tell him you can pick it up in the evening. Many times they will look at the car that day even though they have no available appointments on their books. People sometimes do not show. This strategy has worked for me.

If you buya service agreement through Subaru of America, the dealer should honor it. If they continue to give you problems, contact the number on the contract, or a SOA rep.

jregen7243

Has anyone here tried those Sylvania SilverStar replacement bulbs for their headlights?? I saw them on Motorweek and bought a pair today. I'll install them and post an update if anyone's interested.

Jon

kens

Jon,

Your question is probably better suited for the Modifications forum, but I'll answer it here:

The Silver Star bulbs are a class of halogen upgrades that use a blue coating on the glass to filter the light from the element to produce a whiter-looking light. Most of these bulbs often use a brighter burning filament to counteract the filtering action of the blue tint.

If you want just improved light output try looking at blubs like Hella Premium, Sylvania Xtra and Philips Vision Plus. These do not employ a cosmetic blue coating and do burn brighter than standard blubs at stock wattage.

Ken

gened1

Hi,
I just ordered a bug/stone deflector from carbras.com the Perfect Fit people, for my Forester. There aren't too many places that have deflectors that fit an 02 Forester. I did a google search for bug deflectors and did find clear bug deflectors but I don't think they had one that would fit the forester.
I really did not think that these things really work but after seeing the amount of bugs I accumulate and then having a stone hit the windshield after bouncing off the hood and bullseyeing my windshield and less than a week later a stone hit my other car and chipping the windshield I ordered one for the Forester. It has to be better than no deflector.
Gene

ateixeira

A sledge? Now you're talking torque.

Cool Ron.

-juice

ateixeira

Cheryl: the OE battery only has 260 CCAs (cold cranking amps). I replaced mine for just $40 at WalMart with one that offered 535 CCAs, the difference is like night and day. It starts up much more quickly and smoothly. Totally worth it.

Though I suspect you may have a bad alternator or a loose belt, because it looks like the battery isn't getting charged at all. If so a new battery wouldn't help.

My suggestion is to call 800-SUBARU3 and ask them to open a case to test the alternator and adjust the belt tension. If they turn out to be okay, $40 is a tiny investment for the smoother starts.

I've driven a WRX and it seemed quiet and refined to me. I'd suspect the tires first, check the pressure and balance them, maybe rotate them while you're at it.

-juice

subaru_team

Hi! A hard starting WRX is unusual. Is yours a manual transmission or an auto? We had some issues with the clutch not being depressed enough (did that myself when my floor mat was in the way).

When does it happen?

Patti

kevin111

That had the battery problem. FYI.

subaru_team

I see Cheryl's and Juice's response is on target. I was responding to Celica's post. Or - it could be that I'm just having one of "those" days!

Thanks!

Patti

celica115

It has happened after 3,000 miles. After that it happens once a month. It dose not matter with the weather because it happens in winter and summer. I used to park on a hill (nose faces up hill). Would that be a problem?

francophile

I opened a trouble ticket with SoA last week. They took my phone numbers and promised a call back within a day or two. That was 6 days ago.

Sigh. I really don't like what I'm seeing here, either in reliability or in customer service. If they tell me they're going to call in a couple of days, then they should - even if it is to tell me they're still looking into it.

Please, no more suggestions that I contact Patty and get some kind of special dispensation. Subaru sells tens of thousands of cars a year, not just to people on these boards. If what I'm seeing is typical, then that should be what people hear about. I'll take my service plain, thanks very much, and report on it as I see it.

In the meantime I still like my car just fine. Except that every now and then, in high heat with the A/C on, it starts to -very- -mildly- exhibit the hesitation that caused my woes in the first place...

Off to call SoA,
-wdb

ateixeira

I bet a new battery would fix that. Or maybe the SPG (single-point ground) mod that is popular with i-Club folks.

Keep on 'em, it took 7 weeks for subaruparts.com to deliver my bumper cover. Now I use parts@libertysubaru.com because they were much quicker.

-juice

jay_24

I'll agree with the call back frustration. I just went through that with a different company(computer problem). Hang in there...

I too have the very mild hesitation problem with my 2001 OB wagon. Happens sometimes when the car is cold. Actual air temp doesn't seem to matter. Also happens much more when AC is on.

Twice the dealer has said..."Can't reproduce." I've changed gas brands and octanes and have noticed changes. Wisconsin gas seems better than Minnesota gas (additives?) and 89 octane seems to eliminate the problem... a little more experimenting on my part and then back to the dealer, with "why do I need 89 octane?"

Otherwise I love the car.

--jay

ateixeira

My OE battery had 260 CCAs, the one in there now has 535 CCAs and it starts and idles smoother, FWIW. $40 at WalMart, nothing fancy.

-juice

jay_24

sounds like a possible... it does seem to idle a little rough/slow with the AC on.

Wonder if the dealer would loan me one to try it? So, ok maybe I can part with $40 and just buy it myself, but it might be fun to whine to the dealer

--jay

kevin111

Sorry about the confusion. You were right.

originalbitman

Did the tranny and diff oil change (looks like I am a tad over on the tranny so need to drain a off a bit) and swapped in a new air filter. The filter was pleanty dirty! But before I leave on my trip I am wondering if it is not too soon to change plugs. What is the current flavor of the month for plugs?

bit

locke2c

NGK copper V-Power -- BKR6E less than $1.50 each at O'Reillys if you have that chain in your area.

Change every 20k for best results. Every 40k-60k at the very latest.

-Colin

originalbitman

hypov

jay_24 Aug 6, 2002 4:43pm

Got me a Optima Battery (CCA 750) and has been great. It wasn't $40 though.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/products/starter/index.asp

-Dave

jfl

For 2001 plugs are supposed to last 60K according to Subaru. In fact, my dealer said my 2000 is on a 60k plug change (the manual says 30k.)

When I change plugs, I will follow Colin's lead. NGK copper plugs, change at NMT 30k. NGK Platinum plugs run more than 3x the cost of copper.

Any tricks or tips on changing the tranny and diff fluids? I'm planning to do that soon.

Jim

originalbitman

The differential is the most difficult only because the access is so limited. A 1/2" breaker bar should get the plugs loose though some here have said they needed extra leverage. I had no problem. I did buy an $8 syphon/pump that was indespesible at filling the differential. I backed the car onto ramps, broke the plugs loose (but didn't remove them) then pulled the car off the ramps. It's a little snug but I scooted under the car and removed the both plugs and let the oil drain. I then replaced the bottom plug and used the pump to fill until the oil came out the top plug (.8 qts.).

As for the tranny, I jacked up the car at the frontmost rocker panel jacking point. Put a jack stand under the car and the crawled under and removed the plug with a socket and breaker bar. While it was draining I lowered the car. After the last drop I reversed the process. I used a cheap funnel that came with about an 18" plastic hose to fill. The funnel made it easy to fill. But now that I just replaced my air filter I would have removed the plenum box (holds the air filter) as it allows great access to the filler hole (tranny dipstick). I put in 3.5 quarts without checking. A little too much (capacity is 3.7qts.) but it was easy to syphon a bit out through the filler hole with the pump. I used Redline 75W-90 in the diff and Havoline dino 75W-90 in the tranny.

I took about an hour including a trip to the parts store for the pump. BTW - here's a link for a great jack pad replacement for your floor jack that allows easy jacking on the scissor jack rocker panel jack points: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?&UID=2002080701254785&SKW=TST0&FNM=20 Item #43042.

bit

subaru_team

subaru_team

The next time it happens, try pushing down harder on the clutch. Let us know if it starts then?

Patti

ateixeira

Thought of something else - check the water level in your current battery. I neglected mine and after 3 years one of the cells was bone dry. No wonder it died.

-juice

celica115

I don't think it is the clutch problem because I hear the "kee kee kee..." sound when trying to start up. If the clutch is not fully pushing down when it starts, we will hear nothing. Am I right?

subaru_team

Yup - you are right. It would be a good idea to mention the occurances when you go to the dealer. Because it sounds very intermittant, they might have a hard time duplicating it, but they will have a record of it should we see more of the same in the future.

Sorry I couldn't help!

Patti

outback_97

Anyone have experience with EGR's or EGR solenoids, or late 80's Subaru emissions problems in general? NOx levels are really high on this car (3x over legal limit), but HC and CO emissions were just fine. The hose from the EGR to the solenoid was completely blocked, so I replaced that. I've read that EGR will open up at >3000 r.p.m. when the car is warm if everything is working right, but it still doesn't seem to. Next to check would be the EGR and solenoid, I'm trying to track these down. We can retest emissions once for free then next time have to pay again to see if it passes.

Second question: Will a cat converter remove HC and CO but not NOx? Specifically, the one in this car? Is it possible to "wear out" the catalyst for some emissions (ie NOx) but not all at the same time?

Thanks for any info you may have.

catman10

I have paint chipping off due to may be rocks or sand but have not had this problem on other cars. I have a chips of paint gone the size about 1/32" and 1/16", they seem to be down to the metal but doesn't show rust yet. I have a 2001 forester. Can anyone help with suggestions on what to do. I have only 14K and don't use it in the woods or on gravel roads. Somewhat disappointed with the way the paint is holding up. any help would be greatly appreciated.

kevin111

If so, there is a product called stone guard that you can get installed on your car. I have a WRX, and I am thinking of getting it.

http://www.stongard.com/sgcontent/compare.asp?point=1

kens

Unfortunately, paint chips are something everyone has to deal with at some point. I believe Japanese cars tend to have thinner paint coats that are more prone to chips.

Luckily our vehicles are made with lots of double-galvanized steel so they're a lot less prone to rust than other makes. However, the best thing you can do is to touch up the spot as soon as possible to prevent damage to the paint around the chip.

Here's one link to show how to fix chips:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/2001/11/repairing_paint_chips/

You can get a bottle of touchup paint at your dealer for a nominal price.

Ken

ateixeira

Touch-up ASAP. If there is rust (doubtful, but still), then get Naval Jelly and rub it off. Then clean thoroughly and apply touch-up paint in very modest amounts. You can always add more later.

Then try a deflector or Stone Guard. Also try to leave a bit more space to the car in front of you. My wife cracked two windshields on her 626 by following trucks too closely, when rocks were kicked up.

-juice

celica115

Is there any hood deflector for 02 WRX? I mean the "hard" one, not the front end cover. It seems like more protection from the rocks. The dealer only has the hood deflector for RS. Do you think it is ugly to put on WRX?

sten2

I have some questions about the cabin air filtration system. I recently changed my filters and noticed that not all the air passes through the filter, some passes through an open area. I am wondering if I a missing some pieces that direct all the air through the filters. I had the filters installed by the dealer before I bought the car. The area that allows air to pass though without getting filtered is between the ‘resistor’ area and the lower filter.
BTW, what is the resistor for? Does it add ions to the air to help attract the dust particles?
I also noticed that the filter media is easily removed from the black piece of plastic. It looks like someone could easily manufacture a replacement filter media to go inside Subaru’s molded black plastic piece. This would make replacing the filter very cheap. So I kept the plastic molding and threw away just the filter media.
I am guessing the filter system was installed incorrectly. I can’t believe that it was designed to let so much air flow through with out being filtered. Anyone else noticed this or can tell if I am missing some parts?

Thanks,
Sten

dfgriggs

I have a 2002 WRX - only has 3750mi on it. The last few hundred mi I have noticed a stumbling between 2500 and 2750 rpm. Esp when I try to hold constant speed in that rpm range in 2nd gear - like in traffic. Any ideas - I haven't contacted the dealer yet, but plan to.