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Comments
Also, denatured alcohol is available at Home Depot in gallon cans.
Jim
alf2002,
Did you check engine light ever stay off?
I am considering taking my car to another dealer to see if another dealer can find the problem.
Any suggestions?
-mike
Greg
-mike
A) moisture due to the winter
letting the level in my gas tank get too low.
I was very impressed with the system they had in place regarding wheel torque. One technician did the initial mounting and tightening with a torque wrench. The wrench was then left on the last wheel he tightened. A second technician then took the torque wrench and checked the torque of every lug on each wheel. The car was not released to me until both technicians had signed off on the work.
Phil
Greg
-mike
I am hoping someone can shed light on the problem I am having with my 1998 Subaru Outback wagon. It has 96,500 miles. About two months ago, I replaced the transmission due to ongoing, intermittent slipping and revving at high rpm's. At about the same time, my car overheated. Since then, I have had three new thermostats, new water pump, new radiator... and have had the cooling system completely bled/flushed out several times, hoses and heating block cleaned, as well as a last ditch effort with "Blue Devil". The car has stranded me in several highly inconvenient and dangerous times/areas, hence many mechanics have looked under the hood. Each one is convinced they've fixed the problem, only to find me stranded on the road once again. My current mechanic is stumped. He thought it could be the head gasket, but can't find sufficient evidence. Has anyone had a similar problem , or does anyone have advice??
What do you mean by stranded? Stopped running, or you stopped it due to a temp needle approaching red?
Basically you've replaced everything impacting engine cooling but the fan and its drive system. If everything was installed properly, that's all there is left.
The reason I asked about the guage, etc is that I hope this entire cooling system thing is not simply a faulty guage showing hot. A good mechanic would have installed an aftermarket heat gauge for $100 on a chronic heating problem vehicle rather than charge 5 times that tossing radiators, water pumps, etc at it. What say ye?
IdahoDoug
Luk
For a short stretch or occaisional "taps" of the brake, it's probably better to leave the transmission alone.
Ken
Back to the battery problem briefly. Chatting with the architect next door, he reminded me that his Camry had once had a daily dead battery problem. After umpteen trips to the mechanic it turned out to be a bad relay for rear window defroster.
John
A battery will hold a charge for a certain time, but it is designed to be used regularly. If you must, just start it once a week and let it idle in the driveway. Let it warm up, and give it a couple of minutes after that. This also cleans your motor oil, and circulates it in your engine to keep everything lubricated nicely.
If you leave a car for extended periods you should winterize it, so I don't think it's unreasonable for the dealer to suggest a trickle charger.
Just my opinion.
By the way, I would consider a new battery. I replaced mine, which had 260 CCAs, with a $40 battery from Wal Mart that has 535 CCAs. She starts better now. It's a cheap investment and might solve your problem completely.
-juice
I'd rather do it myself anyway, just to ensure the proper torque settings. So I buy tires wholesale and have them mount them the first time, then I recheck the torque and rotate them myself from then on.
Haven't had a flat in 18 years, knock on wood.
Wow, Loosh, oil leak come and gone while I was away.
Jim: I forget exactly, but they charged us a ridiculous amount to fix that axle boot. $600 or so? The grease leaked and shorted out a $220 oxygen sensor, too. Mazda parts are brutally expensive if you go to a dealer.
For $200, go ahead and do it, that's cheap.
-juice
-juice
Anyway, they gave me a nice loaner and have had my car for the last week. Still nothing they can determine that is wrong. They assume it was dead when I came to pick it up because perhaps someone unplugged the charger. Hmmmmm, not a very satisfying explanation.
Anyway, thanks for all the comments. Yes, I already have had the battery replaced. The second battery seems very underpowered. The car always seems to hesitate before starting, and often needs to crank several times. I did not have this problem with the first battery; it started or it didn't.
Subaru has also put a meter on the car several times and said that the battery drainage is within expected specs (10 something), which is why they do not think it is an after-market problem. They have tested the alternator and the electrical system. Everything checks out.
The service guy also said they have one other customer with the same problem ("short-charging"). He didn't say if this is a local customer, or someone in the database. He also said that other low-mileage customers have not had the same problem with their Foresters.
I generally drive my car 50-100 miles a week, but it may sit for 3-4 days between trips. But this is a small town and those are mostly in-town miles. Let's face it, at this time of year, there just aren't too many places one CAN drive in Alaska.
Wish me luck. Tomorrow I go to speak with the service manager and then I plan to escalate this. I really don't want to be plugging my car in every night . . .
Cheryl
-mike
mchin: The original equipment battery is fairly weak to begin with (low CCAs). Combine that with cold weather and you'll notice the starter needs to work hard to get the engine started. The best solution is to invest in $60-70 and buy an aftermarket battery with a higher CCA rating. The other less practical thing you can do is to keep the battery warmer either by heating your garage or by using a battery warmer.
Ken
Long time since my last post. Just got 6"+ of snow here in Tennessee. The Subaru performed as advertised. The AWD and Michelin X-ones proved to be a great combination . . .
Anyhow, I seemed to be plagued with engine-oil leaks. I just replaced both head-cover gaskets at 98K. I had to replace my rear engine and crank seal at 73K. I crawled under my car yesterday and discovered oil seeping from the underside of the timing belt cover. Last time I saw this it meant that the crank seal was bad (only 25K ago). Could it be one of the cam seals? Any thoughts? Anyone else seem to spring oil leaks as frequently as I do? With the exception of these leaks and a starter motor - the car has been great . . .
Thanks for any advice!
-Outbike I
-juice
Jim
-juice
For that cold battery, try turning on the radio for just 10 seconds or so before you start it up. I've heard this can help warm up the battery so it's prepared to start more easily. Don't quote me on it, I have no idea the mechanical explanantion behind the idea, just sharing it.
-juice
I noticed the heating gauge more or less suddenly shoot up on several occasions after slowing down at a toll, or coming off of the highway and then pulled off the road.
On two other occasions, I stopped for gas, and subsequently had an overheating engine, complete with steaming radiator fluid, antifreeze all over ground, and overflowing reservoir.
If you can have the coolant "sniffed" right after an overheating episode I suspect they will find hydrocarbons. Mine was subtle enough that it took two attempts to detect it. Fortunately mine was still under the powertrain warranty.
Good luck.
Thanks to Paisan, fibber2, bat and the others for the advice.
Steve
-mike
Greg
Mark
it's not like ordering a double quarter-pounder with supersize fries and a diet coke, no.
-Colin
Greg
-Brian
Ken
Contacted SOA and their rep got back to me with a number of 356 CCA. Definitely anemic for just the metro-Boston area while we're having this long duration cold snap. Would have to think its rougher in Alaska. I notice my Forester drags a bit for the first 3 or 4 cranks in the morning then is fine the rest of the day. I would be worried if I had to leave it for a week in this weather.
To another comment re: WalMart batteries, I just replaced the one in my-ex's car this week and it had 650 CCA for 39.95 after the core exchange. The Ford Motocraft battery lasted 5.5 years and wasn't entirely gone when I replaced it. Seems like Subaru could put in a beefier battery. Of course they do sell those battery warmer kits .....
The one in my wife's 03 Outback looks to be the same per the owner's manuals. In the owner's manuals they specify Amp Hours which is great if you are running with a fully charged battery at 80 deg F. Not really applicable to frigid weather like this.
Lastly a plug for the e-mail response for SOA. The person who must handle the e-mails for this area, John Mergen (since every response I've gotten from SOA has his name on it) has been really great.
Another 0.02.
Ken - sorry, but tan does not qualify. ;-) Our three were Forest Green, a medium Grey, and Fire Engine Red.
Steve
FWIW, our MPV has 17" OEM wheels.
I'll stop now since I'm way off topic
-Brian