2010 Ford Explorer overheating when accelerating, no heat in cabin

saun_leharsaun_lehar Member Posts: 3
edited December 2014 in Ford
My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.

Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.

The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.

The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.

I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.

Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
Replaced Radiator.
Replaced Thermostat.
Drain and flush and re-service.
Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
Removed supply hose and ran coolant to help purge trapped air.
Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.
Check operation of heater control valve, works.
Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.

Problems still occurring:
Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.

My background is no car experience, I am a helicopter mechanic and if this was an AH64 I would be done by now. SO please take it easy on a rookie shade tree mechanic.

I don´t know if there could still be air in the system, but it seems pretty impossible considering how many times I´ve tried to burp it.


  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAMember Posts: 9,400
    It feels like air in the system, but I agree it sounds like that almost can't be the issue with your flush and fill. Is it possible that the replacement thermostat just happens to be bad? Or perhaps an issue with the replacement radiator (less likely that the thermostat to my shade tree mind)

  • saun_leharsaun_lehar Member Posts: 3
    Just tested the replacement thermostat, it is working properly.
    Tried to fill more coolant into the radiator, it took a bit more, but not much.
    Could the water pump be the issue?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAMember Posts: 9,400

    Just tested the replacement thermostat, it is working properly.
    Tried to fill more coolant into the radiator, it took a bit more, but not much.
    Could the water pump be the issue?

    I guess the pump could be the issue. At the very least, the pump is not circulating coolant (or enough coolant) while you're driving, hence the overheating. Or the radiator is not able to bleed off the heat generated while driving.

    Does it overheat if you let it sit at idle for an extended period of time?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Hhmm, How many bleed screws are there one or two? Air was removed with vehicle on level ground and heater on full?
  • saun_leharsaun_lehar Member Posts: 3
    It does not overheat when it sits at idle. Only overheats when accelerating. The radiator is brand new, so I´m not sure that this could be the issue.

    There are no bleed screws at all. I´ve purchased the Haynes manual and it also makes no mention of bleed screws.
    I removed it with the front jacked (the research I´ve done recommended this) and the heater on full.

    I´ve been getting it to take some more coolant and by squeezing upper and lower hoses to release some more air. I can´t help but think it´s impossible for it to still have air pockets, considering how long I´ve been at this
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