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Comments
(#1, 2, 3, 4, and 5) in in tact but, the Number 1 positon does not work.
The rest of the numbered items each work and blow air. I went to a wrecking yard and replaced the control unit thinking that maybe the #1 position was bad. Same results with the new unit. Maybe I should look at the heater motor. I think it is encased under the glove compartment on the passenger side of the truck.
I removed the ash tray and pushed up a snap out unit that is around a small round item and need advice on how to get the snap outs back in place.
The dealer stated no codes came up, every think is running per spec's. The engine still runs rough, it runs fair some days and some days the engine runs very rough. The truck has been back to the dealer twice for rough idle. Their opinion is no engine light no problem. The service manager did say he thought a reprograming bulletin will probably come out for this issue in the future. You know its a shame you spend a lot of money on what you think is a good truck and they can't even address the idle.
If any body has any thoughts or comments I would welcome them
Thanks
Thanks
Wayne
Best bet is to pull the bulbs.
Your truck SHOULD have a seperate 10 amp
DRL fuse in the underhood fuse center. Check for it.......................
Also check out http://www.lightsout.org
Note: Look at your Bridgestone tire warranty booklet. The dealed has to sign off that they checked your tires as required by Firestone or you will loose any warranty.
when the trany temp goes up to say 105C (in think) which is quite hot but not really hot. (not in red).
here is where it gets a little confusing. once hot and if i go from forward to reverse and then back to forward, once i accelerate the trany will slip for a moment and then the engine will rev up and then the trany will slam in to gear and start to move the truck but the RPM is above where it would be it the truck was cool. This hi reving will occure till the truck cools. then all is ok till the truck gets hot again. this is an intermitent proble only when the trany temp gets up to high. i get an engine light will come on and will stay till truck cools. once cool light goes out and all is fine.
The previous owner had truck in several times for this problem but obviously was never fixed. Any one know what is going on and what should i do.
I tow a 28' travel trailer w/gvw of 6600#s
Hope that helps.
Ray T.
Ok.. So now year later.. truck acted same way.. Could also hear strange buzzing noise coming from under the dash.. by the fuses perhaps.. but this time I disconnected the positive battery cable and waited a while. Reconnected and truck started right up. Couple weeks later truck started right up but would not shift into gear no matter what I did. Fiddling while stepping on the brakes as hard as I could would not allow it to shift.. Disconnected battery on a hunch.. waited.. reconnected.. truck started right up and would shift into gear fine.
In addition to these problems I would notice the oil, gas gauges bouncing around.. like it gets a sudden jolt of charge.
Nobody has any clue what this could be.. have given up a dealer since they don't wish to help. Any ideas? Help!
:confuse:
-David
Ray T. :shades:
Hope this helped somewhat........
Ray T. :shades:
A recall order was issued on Aug 29th for the problem of unwanted ABS activation on 1999 thru 2002 Chevy Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, & Tahoe models and GMC Sierra, Yukon & Yukon XL models. NHTSA campaign number 05V-379. Possibility of 804,000 vehicles affected. Owners should call Chevrolet at 1-800-630-2438 or GMC at 1-866-996-9463.
Thanks
I just purchased a 2000 Silverado with a 5.3L and when I first test drove it, it apparently had a problem misfiring (hindsite) and the service light came on, I told the dealer I wasn't interest but if they fixed the problem to call me. A week later they called and said they fixed the problem. I saw the paper work from the Chevy dealer that fixed it and they replaced the fuel pump and drained the take. They told me it was bad gas. I retest drove it and it ran fine. I bought it (no warranty) and a few days went by. It started again. I filled up the take and it seemed to fix the problem. A couple of miles later it started again. I checked the codes and I got a reading of P0303 (cyl 3 misfire). I have since changed the plugs, swapped coil and wires with no avail. I am now being told from my backyard mechanic friends to replace the camshaft & crankshaft sensors. This could start to get expensive grasping at straws. I was hoping you might have found the problem...?
Ray T.
TOWcRAY
DTC('s) has registered. Go from there.
FYI - Check out Post # 449 and follow the reply links. And stay tuned here; You might get clues from someone who solves their problem.
-David
MS
Thanks,
Sweatin in TN