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Honda Accord 2000 brakes maintainance

tgozdalski1tgozdalski1 Posts: 34
edited March 2014 in Honda
we own 2000 accord lx 5 speed. Right now we have 85,000 miles on odometer. The only problematic area with the car so far had been front brakes. At about 45,000 miles the new pads had been replaced by a local garage. Before replacement I could feel a little of vibrations coming from the wheels under hard braking. The garage replaced pads and turned the rotors. After about 2-3,000 miles the vibration returned. I had the same mechanic turned the rotors once again which fixed the problem for about 10,000. Today I bought a set of new rotors at $60 each at Auto Zone and new metallic pads and replaced them myself. The job was relatively easy. The only problem I had was to find torque specs for a caliper holding bolts. If anybody knows them could you please let me know?
I considered purchasing performance rotors and pads, but almost all of them require at least 16" rims. Did somebody find performance rotors, drilled or slotted, for standard 15" sized rims?


  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    I'd say it's a miracle, considering pad materials used now. Typical brake rotor warpage due to heat - no big deal. Relax. Your mechanic didn't do a good job of turning the rotors. He didn't cut them deep enough, or should have replaced them.

    Sport Compact Car magazine has several advertisers that show slotted and/or cross-drilled rotors in stock size for the Accord.
  • with the warpage occuring again so soon I would be suspect of a sticking slider pin. the grease in the slider hole sort of turns to glue after being heated and cooled so many times. I clean and lube the pins and holes at each pad replacement with a high temp grease. another problem I have had with the aftermarket pads is that they may fit to tight in the pad holder and drag a little, because they won't release fully. I will say that I have had great luck with Wagner Thermal Quiet, about 1/2 the cost of OEM and no glazing or excessive dusting. seems to be the right compound. the aftermarket pads that are 'lifetime' may be to hard of a compound for the rotor and cause problems. best of luck I hope this helps you.
  • zueslewis,
    I consider myself a relaxed person, I just asked for advice. My type of driving is 90% highway in a low traffic conditions. I hardly use my brakes. Also most auto magazines in their accord reviews estimate front brake life span at about 70,000 miles. hondadude, thanks for advice. I did purchase lifetime warranty metallic pads this time. I hope they will last another year until we trade in for 2003 ex 5 speed. Anybody with the repair manual can tell me torque values for caliper bolts?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    because the auto magazines, and especially brake parts advertisements, are full of poop. To get 40,000 miles out of a set of pads is on the high side of normal - most I see are lasting 30-35,000 with problematic braking systems eating pads every 15-20,000.
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    45K is pretty good. I'm not sold on lifetime warranty pads. The pad maker just makes them harder so they wear away the rotor more.

    I get about 25K-27K from the pads on my 87 LeSabre which ends up being one year of driving. I change them every fall before it gets too cold. I seem to get two pad lifetimes out of my rotors before rust overtakes them. I just got about 52K out of a set of KVR/Brembo rotors which used up a set of KVR Carbon Metallic pads and then a set of the Bendix TitaniuMetallics.

    But then I drive really hard and brake deep in the curves ;)

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,350
    A lot of these "lifetime" pads aren't anything special. The seller is betting on the odds you'll sell the car or forget about the warranty.

    Or the pads will be made of a very hard material. These will squeek and drive you nuts.

    BTW, my 99 EX V-6 coupe just had it's 45,000 mile service. Replaced rear pads they were getting thin. Front pads at 4MM. They are 10 MM when new. The rear pads only come with about 4 MM when they are new.
  • My 2000 Accord, V6 has 40,000 miles and I just replaced the rear brake pads. The front pads has
    maybe about 7500 miles left on it. This seems
    unusual because normally the front brade pads wear out first and the rear pads usually last
    almost twice longer than the front. Is there
    something wrong with my rear brakes? Anybody have similar problem. Please help. Thanks.
  • Sorry hit the wrong key. Don't know why but when I help friends with disk brakes change pads and the cars with pads on all 4 corners-the rear ones seem to wear out first. Your driving style and conditions will determine brake life. If I lived in LA, doubt I would get more than 30 or 40K out of front pads. Replaced my front pads on 97 accord at 118K and they had at least 10K left on them. Now have a bit over 140K and the front pads (el cheapo auto zone things) are showing very little wear and the rear brake linings are probably good to 200k.

    Never let the repair guys "true" up your rotors by grinding or turning them unless they really wobble when braking. Some places sell up for this "service" and it ends up costing a lot when u have to replace the disk rotor. Cheaper on the newer accords though-not necessary to press the thing into the wheel and bearing assembly.

    SO in answer to your question-usually rear pads wear out first-you probably live in a city and are on the brakes a lot.
  • Butch, I appreciate your input on my 2000 Accord
    rear brake question. I do drive in the San Fran-
    cisco bay area and traffic here is terrible. Also
    thanks for the info on turning/not turning the
  • You guys seem to have had good experiences with your rear brakes. My local Honda dealer where I bought car did a brake job on rear at 22.5K. Said they were almost gone. Did I get ripped?
  • I just had both the front and rear brakes (pads and rotors) replaced for the first time at 68,000 miles. 98 V6 Accord w/ auto tranny. I was pleased with how long they lasted, but not with the bill for the replacement of all 4 corners.
  • It is possible to wear out rear pads in 22.5 k miles but you really have to be on the brakes a lot. In the future I would ask to see the pads before letting them replace them. What did they charge u for a set of rear pads?

    Timadams-why did they replace the rotors-did u have incredible shake in the front end while braking??. If not you did not need rotors. What did they stick you for pads on all 4 corners and rotors?
  • I also had to change my front pads recently. No complaints, they lasted 67.8K miles
  • the excuse they gave me was that since I used a local toll road that went up and down approximately 500 ft in height that the rear brakes wear faster. Should have questioned that since the cruise control maintains the speed in both directions with little or no braking from me.
  • I was searching the internet for best price on brake pads for my '01 Accord V6 and came upon the following pads for the car.

    N1010-57760 (I assume this is Honda Brand pads)
    N1010-25912 PBR
    N1010-87985 ACT Ceramic Japan
    N1010-84172 Nissin Super Japan
    N1010-99441 Advantex
    N1010-45299 Nippon

    Does anyone have an opinion on these various brands in terms of performance, durability, quietness etc... Any information and recommendation is welcomed.

  • timadamstimadams Posts: 294
    They replaced all four rotors at my option. I've had brake pads replaced before on vehicles without replacing the rotors and ended up with poor braking due to the pads not "seating" well with the non-smooth rotor.

    I won't replace brake pads without either turning down or replacing the rotors, and my rear rotors were rusty enough that my mechanic suggested replacing them rather than turning them. I told him to go ahead and replace all four.

    The whole job cost about $450.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Rotors don't rust where the brake pad sweeps. The rust on other areas of the rotor have nothing to do with braking performance.

    (Ok, if the car sits for a while the swept area might develop minor rust. The pad removes this in the first few applications of the brakes. Or, for you unfortunates that live in heavyly salted areas, I understand lots of thing rust up and fall off of cars. Where I live, I don't see this happening.)

    Your mechanic used the FUD factor on you. Fear, Uncertainity, Distrust. He's the one I would mistrust with my auto repairs.

    (Now on the caliper part of the brakes, there are some areas where rust will effect function.)
  • bburton1bburton1 Posts: 395
    Have left the original rotors never turned on 2 different accords for over 200K and now on one with 143K and never had a problem and used el cheapo Beck Arnley and Autozone pads.

    In terms of longevity-have a 72 VW van - bought new - still has the original rotors-replaced pads a couple of times-and rusty rotors are not a problem-it just grinds the rust off.

    Find a new mechanic-this guy is not your friend. I have gone with friends a couple of times when their dealer tried this stuff and put a stop to it.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 135
    I'm going to be changing the pads on my 2000 Accord SE. I got OEM pads, with new backing plates.

    What do you use on these plates to prevent squeeling? Also, what high temp grease do you use on the pins?

    This is the first time I'll be changing pads since my 1972 Toyota Corona, so I'm a bit rusty.

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Use silicone grease only to lubricate slide pins and bushings. Any petroleum based product will degrade the bushings. Use a trace amount of moly lube on metal/metal contact points.
  • tntitantntitan Posts: 306
    How many miles do you have on your 2000 SE and what type of driving do you do (city, highway)? I also have a 2000 SE with 35K and haven't seen any indication of serious brake wear yet. Just curious. Thanks.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 135
    I have 34k on the car. When I had the state inspection at 28k, they said the fronts were fine and the rears just needed cleaning. I'm only doing this to stay ahead of the game, and make sure I don't damage the rotors by letting the pads go too long.

    I live in NYC, and do a mixture of city and highway driving.
  • I have a 2000 ex v6 accord

    I drive 50-50 highway city. I'm not a brake rider or a brake slammer. I let let off the gas to slow
    down before i break in most cases. I've
    replace the frontbreaks under 20k and the rears
    under 25k.

    Is that normal ????
  • bburton1bburton1 Posts: 395
    got @ 113K on my front pads on 97 accord-still had 10K left on them when replaced. Now have 144K and rear bands still have another 100 or so on them. Did u look at the pads when they were replaced-some dealers like to make a few extra bucks by replacing them-DIY-only takes a few minutes and have replaced my own pads for over 500K an nada problemo.
  • We have a 2000 Accord EX Coupe, 4 cylinder. Dealer, during service at 26,000 miles replaced front brake pads. No comment as to rear pads. Two weeks later, a Firestone shop doing state inspection said rear pads were almost gone. Brought car back to dealer, who said, yup, needs rear pads. I questioned why they did not say that when they did the front brakes, and they said it was a different technician, and that it was a close call. So I authorized rear brake pad replacement ($248.00 at dealer) Three weeks later my daughter was driving the car on a busy highway in New York and heard a horrible noise. She eventually was able to get off, and brought it to a nearby gas station. They took the right rear wheel off and found that the two caliper bolts were missing. Photos were taken and they put on replacement bolts. Called the dealer, who, at first, said it was impossible that they had not replaced the bolts. I brought the car back there, they put it on the lift, and when the wheel was removed, two bright, shiny non-Honda bolts were there (that the gas station had put on). The dealer said that the technician doing the brake job probably had not torqued the bolts properly, and they worked their way off. After many weeks of negotiation, the dealer agreed to refund part of the charge for the brake job, and the charge for the initial "inspection" which was obviously faulty.

    Anyway, front and rear brakes were replaced at 26,000 miles. Make sure you correctly torque those caliper bolts.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 135
    I replaced the front pad on my 2000 Accord SE yesterday. The car had 33,700 miles. The pads could probably have gone another 4-5k, but I had the wheels off and the materials on hand, so I did it. Went well, I used original Honda pads. The only thing that bothered me was when I compressed the caliper piston, some brake fluid was forced out of the master cylinder. But all feels fine. Really not a difficult job.

  • 97 accord I4, 36k. I would like to bring it to a local garage using honda parts to do a brake check up. If I can see the technician doing his job, how can I tell if the front brake pad or the rear shoes need to change? If pad got changed, is brake fluid also recommand to be changed?
    Please advise.
  • I have been going thru front rotors do to warpage.
    put new wagners and china made rotors,they warped, had them turned and problem still came back.
    started to suspect the rear brakes weren't doing there part causing the fronts to over heat.
    After driving the front rotors are very hot while hardly any heat comes from the rear[i know the fronts do most of the work but i can hold my hand on the rear drum for a couple of seconds before I can feel heat and it doesn't burn
    replaced the rear drum and shoes and the proportioning valve.[bled the system real good]
    installed new rotors worked good for a while, just starting to warp again
    anyone have any ideas I can try next
    I have four other hoda's in my family that i have done brakes on and my 94 accord is the only one that is giving me problems
  • bburton1bburton1 Posts: 395
    Got 113K out of my pads on my 97 I4 accord. You can check the pads yourself by taking off the front tires and using a flash light to look at the top of the pads. If you can see the notch in the middle of the top of the pad-you are ok. When there is less than a 1/4" of notch left-u are getting close to needing new pads. When the pads are replaced-I prefer to open the valve on the caliper as i am shoving the piston back into the caliper to let the brake fluid squirt out. This is good cause this fluid has been in the caliper and has been very hot. Before I do this I suck out the old fluid in the brake resivoir (?SP) and replace it with new. Use dot 3 I believe-not the dot 4. Have 147K on rear shoes and they are good for another at least 50K.
  • gslevegsleve Posts: 183
    on you're lug nuts and caliper bolts if not usually reason why rotors warp is because the lug nuts have not been torque properly usually the person performing the brake service tightens them waaaay tooo much
  • What's wrong with using dot 4 instead of dot 3? Mine calls for dot 3 but I use dot 4 anyway. Any harm to it? Thanks!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Dot 4 fluid has a higher dry boiling point than Dot 3, but it has a higher water absorbtion rate. It's ok to use IF you have the system flushed every 2 years.
  • I use Vavline synpower brake fluid -- it didn't even specify dot3 or 4, just say exceeds dot3&4
    specs. I knew 4 has higher boiling point but didn't know it absorbs water more easily, Thanks!
    Yes, I bleed the brake system but I can do nothing about the fluid in ABS unit.
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