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I have now had 2 VW service centers tell me the same thing. The ABS controller goes bad and causes dashboard indicator problems. Disconnecting the ABS copntroller causes the other indicators to work again. Hooray, I guess.
The replacement ABS controler is $1,000 installed. Hooray? Not so much.
BTW - VW knows these go bad and won't give any consideration (according to the dealer).
Maybe I can find a used one...
i had my last regular service done at 47000 mles, after my car crossed the 50000 mile mark the check coolant light statrted flashing. i went to the dealer and they told me they had to replace the coolant system as it had leak.i had to pay $600 to repair it. i think they knew about the leak during my last service and did not bother to inform me. since my warranty expired i had to pay the full price. i think they cheated me, this is a very bad experience. i loved my car till today but i am very dissappointed wth the dealer. please give any suggestions.
I have built race cars, and others back to 1968. I am no genius and should stick to driving the cars, so I am told by my old techs. I should have had him do these. What a pain. I have them all working except the PassSide DRL won't light? Any ideas. I even added new tested crimp-on connectors, which was needed.
I want to check the fuses BUT I CAN'T FIND THEM. Book says Left end of dash, DrivSide .........SORRY, not there. ANY IDEAS? Geeez, I just found the battery.
Plus, ENGINE LIGHT IS NOW ON. Put best unleaded octane and it went off, now ON again. Oh my Go$#@(. Me too NOW!!!! Am I (*%scr#$@%!!!) too??
Laboriously yours, JackRyan.
(PS: JackRyan is my pen name, I ghost write. I am not being cute or a jerk. I use the JackRyan tag for many e -things.
Feel stupid asking dealer....... Thanks.
Follow this link: http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/fusebox/index.htm
Bear in mind that the car shown is a RHD version. It the same on a US car, just on the other side of the vehicle.
After driving it for about 100 miles now, it smelled like oil was burning, and after a few hours the car being parked, we went to the store coming back the check engine light is on now. The engine also sounds louder than before.Please help does anyone know what could be wrong now. :mad:
Two times in the last 5 years I have had the burning oil smell. In each case it was oil leaking through a gasket. I don't know which gasket, or if the leak came from the same gasket each time...sorry.
It does seem that they use cheap gaskets...
Good luck.
Thanks.
Mark
The third source, which isn't actually a manual, is the EKTA parts manual. This will give you an exploded view of every system on the car. For me, sometimes this view is enough to be able to figure out what you need to do and how to best approach it. Google "ETKA Passat" and you should be able to find an online version of ETKA. I saved the entire thing on my harddrive.
01203 ABS instrument panel electrical no signal intermittent
18256 engine-ECU p1848 intermittent
Of course the lights were not on when I drove the car to my mechanic. He added some brake fluid as per the owners manual. Then as I drove home the lights came on again. Any ideas on what needs to be done? Is this latest problem connected to the repairs I had done to do with the transmission and the TCM?
I had the ABS light on solid, the Brake light flashing, the Oil light flashing, and the Tachometer failing to move, intermittantly. Either they all worked normally, or they behaved as described above.The they just misbehaved constantly.
I've had two dealers now tell me the ABS Control units fail, and when then do, they cause the other indicators to misread. The second dealer disconnected the ABS Control Unit. The Tachometer is now normal, as is the Oil light. The ABS light is still on solid - it is disconnected - , and the Brake light still flashes which the dealer says he expected with the ABS light being on.
Net net - as an experiment have the mechanic disconnect the ABS Control Unit and see what problems remain. Needless to say you will be without ABS, but it may the case already. (I've been driving for 1 month this way. The dealer wants $1000 for a new one.)
HTH
You can get a refurbed one online. Google Passat ABS module rebuild. It's a LOT less than $1,000.
After my last few experiences simple and VW Passat don't go to well together!
Any ideas of what the problem is and more importantly any guesses how much it will cost?
A couple of weeks ago, she got in it to go somewhere and it would not start. It would turn over but not fire up. We took it to a garage and after checking the spark plugs, they checked the timing belt and discovered that the tensioner had failed. It was probably original. It was the type with the ball and socket piston to tensioner linkage. The ball and socket were badly worn and that is where the failure occurred. Anyway, they replaced it with a newer design that VW came out with about 5 years ago according to the mechanic. Also replaced belt, pulley, and water pump while they were in there. First question- was there any kind of a recall to replace the poorly designed tensioner assembly, the ball and socket style?
They got it back together, started it, but it ran poorly so they decided to check for damage to the valves. They bore-scoped the cylinders and saw that one valve looked bent, so they removed the head to inspect it further and discovered that it looked like one valve in each cylinder had hit the piston head. So, they sent the head off to a machine shop and that is where we stand right now. I don't know if they'll have to replace more than just the four that are visibly damaged. Hope not. The valves could have been damaged when the tensioner first failed, when we tried unsuccessfully to start it, or when the mechanic started it and it ran roughly. No way to tell.
I can't see getting out of this for less that $2000 and probably more.
I have a 2000 Passat that sat in rain for a couple of days. Then I turned it on and all of the warning lights were on, none of the gauges worked (temp, gas speed), the clock/milage did not work but the car ran fine - even the radio worked. That was a few days ago. Today I started the car and the same conditions re-occurred. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes but that did not change anything.
Any help would be appreciated.
With the problems I have had with this vehicle including gaskets, seals, tie rod ends, lock cylinders, and other items mechanics at 2 garages who specialize in Vw\W have advised me to sell it asap. They both say the Passat are very expensive and " just get rid of it".
Thanks!
I was just reading this forum and saw all the posts about problems. It looks scary.
The car seems new, had only 60K miles on it. What I should be looking for? Should I look for japanese car?
Appreciate your help!!
Thanks
People with bad experiences will obviously feel differently than I do about my car, but that is the same with all makes. The Japanese car (2001 Acura TL) we had before the Passat went through 2 transmissions, one dash board, and several other small problems in the 55k miles we had it. It had good power, but wasn't has fun to drive IMO. And it used a lot more gas. Of course, no one can tell the future with the vehicle you choose, but in my experience, the Passat has been a great car.
I have an '03 Passat, 1.8T, with 60,000 miles. Since purchased new in 11/2002, I've spent about $3,500 on maintenance and full synth oil changes - (including three sets of tires, 1 set of front brakes, 2 sets of rear brakes, and two outer CV boots).
Good luck with your decision.
I've had to replace mulitple oil gaskets, I've had to reattach a part of the ceiling fabric, the backseat cupholder broke almost immediately; the ABS Control Unit is dead; The airconditioner has a leak in/under the dashboard.
No more Passats for me.
Your trouble sounds similar to one I had with a Saab. In my case the car would stall anytime. It turned out to be the Throttle Body. Once that was replaced a number of problems were corrected including Cruise Control. The trouble is that it cannot be detected most of the time because when it is working no faults are registered. I lucked out with a mechanic who specialized in Saabs and he was not employed at a dealer. Might be worth a test.
Opinions? :confuse:
VW dealers want 800-$1000 to replace with new unit / 12 month warranty.
You can get rebuilds for 1/2 that.
PS I feel your pain on gaskets. I replaced 2 last week
Mark
I prefer someone in Culver City, Marina del Rey, etc.
Thanks!
Fan would not come on and would have to keep heater on to keep the car from over heating. Took the battery out and had it tested...battery is good. Now when the battery is hooked back up the fan immediately turns on w/o the key in ignition.
Is this a relay or wire problem? Thanks for any help