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I was wrong when I said the other electrical was fine. The cruise and radio work, but turn signals and wipers are dead. I got in the car a few times yesterday, and sometimes it was fine, but it was back to the steady beep this morning - all the way to work!!! I keep pushing on the fuses to see if anything is loose with no real benefit. Nothing is visibly blown either. Any clues from anybody???
I have now had 2 VW service centers tell me the same thing. The ABS controller goes bad and causes dashboard indicator problems. Disconnecting the ABS copntroller causes the other indicators to work again. Hooray, I guess.
The replacement ABS controler is $1,000 installed. Hooray? Not so much.
BTW - VW knows these go bad and won't give any consideration (according to the dealer).
I have a 2001 Volkswagon Passat 1.8 turbo, the coolant light will not stop coming on. We have replaced timeingbelt, thermostat, water pump, and the water outlet. The car drove for one day, went to crank it up this morning and the light came back on again. What can we do next? :sick:
hi, i had my last regular service done at 47000 mles, after my car crossed the 50000 mile mark the check coolant light statrted flashing. i went to the dealer and they told me they had to replace the coolant system as it had leak.i had to pay $600 to repair it. i think they knew about the leak during my last service and did not bother to inform me. since my warranty expired i had to pay the full price. i think they cheated me, this is a very bad experience. i loved my car till today but i am very dissappointed wth the dealer. please give any suggestions.
I have a 2001 Passat 4MTOTION Wagon. I just bought it with 98,000 miles on it. It drives and runs really phenomenal The dealer performed $1000 at his cost, (so he says): Timing belt, Tune-up, Brakes (4) ,Etc., and gave me a 6 month PT warranty, which he has already honored. I had a Low Beam go out, so I decided to replace them all, incl. the fog lights with Sylvania Silverstar ULTRAS.
I have built race cars, and others back to 1968. I am no genius and should stick to driving the cars, so I am told by my old techs. I should have had him do these. What a pain. I have them all working except the PassSide DRL won't light? Any ideas. I even added new tested crimp-on connectors, which was needed.
I want to check the fuses BUT I CAN'T FIND THEM. Book says Left end of dash, DrivSide .........SORRY, not there. ANY IDEAS? Geeez, I just found the battery.
Plus, ENGINE LIGHT IS NOW ON. Put best unleaded octane and it went off, now ON again. Oh my Go$#@(. Me too NOW!!!! Am I (*%scr#$@%!!!) too?? Laboriously yours, JackRyan.
(PS: JackRyan is my pen name, I ghost write. I am not being cute or a jerk. I use the JackRyan tag for many e -things.
To find the fuses, open the driver's door all the way. Where the dashboard meets the door, you'll find an end cap that is removable. Pry that off and you'll see the fuses.
I have a 2003 Passat Sedan (that I am about to drive in the river), but a year or so ago I had an intermittent and persistent engine light problem. After several trips to the mechanic, and hours of frustration swapping out parts with another vehicle in his lot, it ended up being a .50 cent relay switch.
We baught a 2001 VW Passat 1.8 turbo from the auction with 156k miles, so far we have replaced timeing belt, water pump, the water pump outlet,and thermostat. Due to the coolant light coming on. We just had it serviced for 2 recalls. The recalls on the car was for the heat shield and the pollen filter. After driving it for about 100 miles now, it smelled like oil was burning, and after a few hours the car being parked, we went to the store coming back the check engine light is on now. The engine also sounds louder than before.Please help does anyone know what could be wrong now. :mad:
Two times in the last 5 years I have had the burning oil smell. In each case it was oil leaking through a gasket. I don't know which gasket, or if the leak came from the same gasket each time...sorry.
I have a 2000 Passat 6cy. 2.8L. I am looking for a good repair manual because I believe I will have many small items which are expensive at dealer but I my be able to handle with used parts. Any suggestions on which manual would work best especially for small items such as door locks, cup holder (rear) etc. Thanks. Mark
Basically, I think you are limited to two sources - 1) the Bentley manual that is the official shop manual for the car. It comes in CDROM and paper versions (~$80 or so). I have the paper version which is okay. Personally, I don't think it's as good as the Bentley manuals were for the 1980's VWs. 2) the Haynes manual. I don't think it's as good as the current Bentley, but it's waaaaayyyy cheaper (~$20).
The third source, which isn't actually a manual, is the EKTA parts manual. This will give you an exploded view of every system on the car. For me, sometimes this view is enough to be able to figure out what you need to do and how to best approach it. Google "ETKA Passat" and you should be able to find an online version of ETKA. I saved the entire thing on my harddrive.
I have a 99 Passat. I was looking through some repair records and noticed a safety recall, 26ES/RS dated June 2008. I must have over looked it back then and never did anything about it. It had to do with underbody heat schields being replaced. There is the possibly of a fire if not replaced. I now have an appointment with dealer to do the work. Has anyone had a problem with this? 99 through 02 models are affected. Also, I may have been luckly but no major problems yet with mine but at 77.000 I am beginning to worry. I have a long trip coming up and not sure what to look for. I will have 80,000 mile service done before trip. I would like to hear from other owners with higher millage. What advice can you give me?
Passat wagon 2001.5 2.8 . I just had the TCM, oxygen sensor, and valve body replaced. Now 200 miles later the ABS light comes on solid and the brake light flashes on red, then both lights go out and the anti-slip regulator light comes on instead. Then it goes out and the other two come on. I took the car to my mechanic who got the following two codes 01203 ABS instrument panel electrical no signal intermittent
18256 engine-ECU p1848 intermittent
Of course the lights were not on when I drove the car to my mechanic. He added some brake fluid as per the owners manual. Then as I drove home the lights came on again. Any ideas on what needs to be done? Is this latest problem connected to the repairs I had done to do with the transmission and the TCM?
I have a similar - not the exact - problem on my 99 Passat GLX, so I don't know if this will be helpful.
I had the ABS light on solid, the Brake light flashing, the Oil light flashing, and the Tachometer failing to move, intermittantly. Either they all worked normally, or they behaved as described above.The they just misbehaved constantly.
I've had two dealers now tell me the ABS Control units fail, and when then do, they cause the other indicators to misread. The second dealer disconnected the ABS Control Unit. The Tachometer is now normal, as is the Oil light. The ABS light is still on solid - it is disconnected - , and the Brake light still flashes which the dealer says he expected with the ABS light being on.
Net net - as an experiment have the mechanic disconnect the ABS Control Unit and see what problems remain. Needless to say you will be without ABS, but it may the case already. (I've been driving for 1 month this way. The dealer wants $1000 for a new one.)
Many thanks for the two posts with the information. i will get my mechanic to try these things and if necessary go with the refurbished ABS module. I would like to keep my fingers crossed in the hope that it is a simple electrical problem but I'm not holding my breath.
After my last few experiences simple and VW Passat don't go to well together!
For a week when we turned on the heat there were some funny noises coming from the air vents, as if something squeaky was in there. Well, today when I turned on the heat and hit circulate the air button, something almost snapped in there and no air came through. An hour ago when I was driving back home, since it was snowing I needed to defog the windshield and crossed my fingers that the air will be blown. Initially it felt like there was some air was coming through but apparently that wasn't the case as it smelled like burning plastic a short while later. I immediately turned off the system and hoped the car wouldn't catch fire due to whatever that smell was coming from.
Any ideas of what the problem is and more importantly any guesses how much it will cost?
My daughter purchased the car last July 08. It had a little over 140k miles on it. Don't know anything about it's maintenance history except that it had a clean car fax.
A couple of weeks ago, she got in it to go somewhere and it would not start. It would turn over but not fire up. We took it to a garage and after checking the spark plugs, they checked the timing belt and discovered that the tensioner had failed. It was probably original. It was the type with the ball and socket piston to tensioner linkage. The ball and socket were badly worn and that is where the failure occurred. Anyway, they replaced it with a newer design that VW came out with about 5 years ago according to the mechanic. Also replaced belt, pulley, and water pump while they were in there. First question- was there any kind of a recall to replace the poorly designed tensioner assembly, the ball and socket style?
They got it back together, started it, but it ran poorly so they decided to check for damage to the valves. They bore-scoped the cylinders and saw that one valve looked bent, so they removed the head to inspect it further and discovered that it looked like one valve in each cylinder had hit the piston head. So, they sent the head off to a machine shop and that is where we stand right now. I don't know if they'll have to replace more than just the four that are visibly damaged. Hope not. The valves could have been damaged when the tensioner first failed, when we tried unsuccessfully to start it, or when the mechanic started it and it ran roughly. No way to tell.
I can't see getting out of this for less that $2000 and probably more.
I have a 2000 Passat that sat in rain for a couple of days. Then I turned it on and all of the warning lights were on, none of the gauges worked (temp, gas speed), the clock/milage did not work but the car ran fine - even the radio worked. That was a few days ago. Today I started the car and the same conditions re-occurred. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes but that did not change anything.
Zephon, you would need to check either your owner's manual or perhaps VWoA's website, but I believe the change interval on the timing belt is 105,000 miles, so the car is quite a bit past that line. Most people will change out the tensioner, water pump, etc, while doing this job since everything is exposed. I don't remember any recall on the original tensioner. Sorry to hear the news - it's a lot of money to put into a 11 year old car.
There are 2 cables running to your switch; one controls the defog and the second controls the other three settings. Sounds like the cable might have snapped. In my limited experience with my 2000 Passat I found that cable to be pretty stiff and I had to remove the cover plates and the small tray between the radio and the controls to see behind the controls. I then sprayed it to see if I could work it loose. It helped somewhat. With the problems I have had with this vehicle including gaskets, seals, tie rod ends, lock cylinders, and other items mechanics at 2 garages who specialize in Vw\W have advised me to sell it asap. They both say the Passat are very expensive and " just get rid of it".
Have you guys purchased any material from this company? VW directed me after I requested 08 passat information. But it's expensive: the 08 passat repaire manual cost 100 bucks. Thank you, no.
Sorry, I don't have any advice, but I was wondering if you found out exactly what the problem was and how much it cost to fix it. I have a 2000 VW Passat and had codes 17119 5th gear ratio (PO735) and 17125 Tec no power slow (P0741) come up on a diagnostic test. It has 108,000 miles and I'm just torn between trading it in or getting it fixed. I have been quoted a very high price for repairs.
Opinions will vary, but I, for one, have been very happy with my '02 Passat. Mine is a GLS 1.8t w/ manual transmission. It has 125k miles now (bought used in 2005 w/ ~ 35k miles), and the only problem it has had is a bad drivers side door sensor at about 115k miles. I've replaced one CV shaft at about 100k miles and a few headlights. Other than that, no repairs aside from scheduled maintenance. Doesn't use a drop of oil, all the electricals still work, and the stock brakes lasted me 120k miles. Still gets 30+ mpg on the freeway (w/ the 4-cylinder, so your mileage will probably be lower), and it is fun to drive. The leather and interior has held up very well, too -- people are usually very surprised when I tell them how many miles it has after getting in.
People with bad experiences will obviously feel differently than I do about my car, but that is the same with all makes. The Japanese car (2001 Acura TL) we had before the Passat went through 2 transmissions, one dash board, and several other small problems in the 55k miles we had it. It had good power, but wasn't has fun to drive IMO. And it used a lot more gas. Of course, no one can tell the future with the vehicle you choose, but in my experience, the Passat has been a great car.
I think it boils down to what kind of person you are: do you read and follow the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual? If you answered "yes", then maybe a Passat is for you. If you are the kind of person who doesn't change oil on a schedule, balks at using synthetic oil, doesn't want to use the recommended (though not required) premium fuel, then I'd say move on to a Honda or Toyota. IMHO, these aren't cars that thrive on neglect.
I have an '03 Passat, 1.8T, with 60,000 miles. Since purchased new in 11/2002, I've spent about $3,500 on maintenance and full synth oil changes - (including three sets of tires, 1 set of front brakes, 2 sets of rear brakes, and two outer CV boots).
The main item to check is oil leaks. The gaskets are cheap and Passat is notorious for these failing. The light switches are fastened to the cover and not the frame. The arm rest is cheap and will break - guaranteed. Cup holders are cheap. the head liners and door covers are not well attached. Door locks are poor. The whole car is cheap plastic. If you have to get at a switch or radio count on replacing something else also And I have had 9 VW's but the Passat is the worst. I would buy a Golf; I'd consdier a Jetta if it was cheap but I'd never touch a Passat again. I'd check with some shops which specialize in VW's and many mechanics will tell you the same thing. My best advise ; my only advise- is to go with a Nissan or some other Japanese product.
Me neither. As I mentioned before, I'm very happy with how the interior has held up. Aren't the materials all the same between the cars? The interior of my bro's 2003 Jetta seems pretty much the same as my car. I don't think he's had any problems, either, come to think of it.
I have all these failures and more within the past 6 weeks. I have also had to replace a tie rod end, brake pads because the others with 75% wear left, came apart; new keys because the lock cylinder provided by VW dealer last week only works with one of my keys, had to buy a new remote and had to fix the rear window defogger. Today it's in the garage for another gasket ( this one is $12 + labour of $800) and radio antenna base. I hope that I get time to sell it before something else goes.
I've had to replace mulitple oil gaskets, I've had to reattach a part of the ceiling fabric, the backseat cupholder broke almost immediately; the ABS Control Unit is dead; The airconditioner has a leak in/under the dashboard.
Engine stalls immediately after starting 3 - 15 times before finally running normally. This started a few months ago but frequency of these stalling fits is increasing from once a month to a few times a week. Stalls are just like turning off the engine without any stumbling detectable. At first, I thought fuel delivery (pump, etc.) but now I think it has to be electrical because: 1.) Stalls are so smooth and consistant regardless if I'm giving a little gas or not (usually by the fifth start attempt I'm getting pissed and can't help myself). 2) Stalls occur more after the car has sat a short time (store parking lots a lot more often than in the morning garage space). Any others experience this behavior? Thanks, Dan
Dan Your trouble sounds similar to one I had with a Saab. In my case the car would stall anytime. It turned out to be the Throttle Body. Once that was replaced a number of problems were corrected including Cruise Control. The trouble is that it cannot be detected most of the time because when it is working no faults are registered. I lucked out with a mechanic who specialized in Saabs and he was not employed at a dealer. Might be worth a test.
Thanks for your reply. Actually, I think the change interval is around 60K. But it looks like it wasn't done at the proper time so we're the ones having to deal with it. Anyway, the machine shop didn't want to work on the head (said they could send it off to another place that specializes in VW's), so the garage I took it to is doing the work themselves. Four valves will be replaced, one in each cylinder hit the piston. They don't see any other problems with it, so after cleaning it all up and probably milling the surface that mounts to the block, they'll put it back together and we'll see what happens. I feel good about the people at the garage, they seem to be very forthcoming about explaining what's going on and what they're doing. They hope to have it done by the middle of next week. Let's hope for the best.
I just recently got a vw passat 01 model and the brake light and abs light stays on but have no problem out of the brakes and then the mil light came on wat do u think the problem may be and probably how much would it cost to get it repaired?
I went to a local VW dealer to see about getting a used remote programmed. They told me it cannot be done because it has an aftermarket radio; in this case Pioneer. They MAY be able to do it if they disconnect the radio. That makes no sense to me but may very well be correct. The manager also told me he has a customer with an aftermarket radio and they have to pull the radio every time they service his car in order to read the codes. Does anyone have any comments?
I'm just wondering if it is worth it to replace the cylinder heads on my 2000 passat. The shop wants around $5,000 to replace with vw parts or will remove and have them cleaned for around $2,500. Blue book is listing value between $3-5K. Opinions? :confuse:
On my '99 Passat, the ABS Control Unit was the culprit. When it failed, other dash board indicators gave false negatives. Regular brakes continue to work; the ABS function does not.
VW dealers want 800-$1000 to replace with new unit / 12 month warranty.
Google "k wire Passat" and you'll find some useful info. Dealers won't use their computer diagnostic equipement because if the k wire that goes to the OEM radio isn't properly dealt with, they risk blowing out their computer - very expensive.
That is a pretty heavy duty for price to pay. Have you considered offering it out for parts? You can likely buy a good and newer Golf , Jetta or Nissan for $5,000 and if you can pick up a thousand or $1,500 for parts over time you'd be ahead of the game. Just a thought.
xyzzy 1954. I have to reattach fabric on driver and passenger doors and overhead fabric looks like it might need attention soon. Any suggestion on best method of doing this? Thanks. PS I feel your pain on gaskets. I replaced 2 last week Mark
I live in Culver City, and need a really great mechanic as I have the 2001 Passatt 1.8T that needs the timing belt replaced and may have the oil sludge issue. I am in the same boat as everyone else in this economy and this is the last thing I needed to happen! The car is currently no driveable and at the dealer and they are quoting me outrageous amounts.
I prefer someone in Culver City, Marina del Rey, etc.
hello my wife drives a 05 passat. just recently the heater stopped blowing hot air. their is still air coming through the vents but its not hot or worm. also the AC wont blow cold air. what could be the problem with the system and do you think its a quick at home repair job? i went out and got a bottle of the coolant for the AC but then i thought a bout it and now i think it might need more than that. can anybody help?
I am looking to purchase a 1995 Passat. It has had a fan porblem.
Fan would not come on and would have to keep heater on to keep the car from over heating. Took the battery out and had it tested...battery is good. Now when the battery is hooked back up the fan immediately turns on w/o the key in ignition.
Is this a relay or wire problem? Thanks for any help
Comments
I have now had 2 VW service centers tell me the same thing. The ABS controller goes bad and causes dashboard indicator problems. Disconnecting the ABS copntroller causes the other indicators to work again. Hooray, I guess.
The replacement ABS controler is $1,000 installed. Hooray? Not so much.
BTW - VW knows these go bad and won't give any consideration (according to the dealer).
Maybe I can find a used one...
i had my last regular service done at 47000 mles, after my car crossed the 50000 mile mark the check coolant light statrted flashing. i went to the dealer and they told me they had to replace the coolant system as it had leak.i had to pay $600 to repair it. i think they knew about the leak during my last service and did not bother to inform me. since my warranty expired i had to pay the full price. i think they cheated me, this is a very bad experience. i loved my car till today but i am very dissappointed wth the dealer. please give any suggestions.
I have built race cars, and others back to 1968. I am no genius and should stick to driving the cars, so I am told by my old techs. I should have had him do these. What a pain. I have them all working except the PassSide DRL won't light? Any ideas. I even added new tested crimp-on connectors, which was needed.
I want to check the fuses BUT I CAN'T FIND THEM. Book says Left end of dash, DrivSide .........SORRY, not there. ANY IDEAS? Geeez, I just found the battery.
Plus, ENGINE LIGHT IS NOW ON. Put best unleaded octane and it went off, now ON again. Oh my Go$#@(. Me too NOW!!!! Am I (*%scr#$@%!!!) too??
Laboriously yours, JackRyan.
(PS: JackRyan is my pen name, I ghost write. I am not being cute or a jerk. I use the JackRyan tag for many e -things.
Feel stupid asking dealer....... Thanks.
Follow this link: http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/fusebox/index.htm
Bear in mind that the car shown is a RHD version. It the same on a US car, just on the other side of the vehicle.
After driving it for about 100 miles now, it smelled like oil was burning, and after a few hours the car being parked, we went to the store coming back the check engine light is on now. The engine also sounds louder than before.Please help does anyone know what could be wrong now. :mad:
Two times in the last 5 years I have had the burning oil smell. In each case it was oil leaking through a gasket. I don't know which gasket, or if the leak came from the same gasket each time...sorry.
It does seem that they use cheap gaskets...
Good luck.
Thanks.
Mark
The third source, which isn't actually a manual, is the EKTA parts manual. This will give you an exploded view of every system on the car. For me, sometimes this view is enough to be able to figure out what you need to do and how to best approach it. Google "ETKA Passat" and you should be able to find an online version of ETKA. I saved the entire thing on my harddrive.
01203 ABS instrument panel electrical no signal intermittent
18256 engine-ECU p1848 intermittent
Of course the lights were not on when I drove the car to my mechanic. He added some brake fluid as per the owners manual. Then as I drove home the lights came on again. Any ideas on what needs to be done? Is this latest problem connected to the repairs I had done to do with the transmission and the TCM?
I had the ABS light on solid, the Brake light flashing, the Oil light flashing, and the Tachometer failing to move, intermittantly. Either they all worked normally, or they behaved as described above.The they just misbehaved constantly.
I've had two dealers now tell me the ABS Control units fail, and when then do, they cause the other indicators to misread. The second dealer disconnected the ABS Control Unit. The Tachometer is now normal, as is the Oil light. The ABS light is still on solid - it is disconnected - , and the Brake light still flashes which the dealer says he expected with the ABS light being on.
Net net - as an experiment have the mechanic disconnect the ABS Control Unit and see what problems remain. Needless to say you will be without ABS, but it may the case already. (I've been driving for 1 month this way. The dealer wants $1000 for a new one.)
HTH
You can get a refurbed one online. Google Passat ABS module rebuild. It's a LOT less than $1,000.
After my last few experiences simple and VW Passat don't go to well together!
Any ideas of what the problem is and more importantly any guesses how much it will cost?
A couple of weeks ago, she got in it to go somewhere and it would not start. It would turn over but not fire up. We took it to a garage and after checking the spark plugs, they checked the timing belt and discovered that the tensioner had failed. It was probably original. It was the type with the ball and socket piston to tensioner linkage. The ball and socket were badly worn and that is where the failure occurred. Anyway, they replaced it with a newer design that VW came out with about 5 years ago according to the mechanic. Also replaced belt, pulley, and water pump while they were in there. First question- was there any kind of a recall to replace the poorly designed tensioner assembly, the ball and socket style?
They got it back together, started it, but it ran poorly so they decided to check for damage to the valves. They bore-scoped the cylinders and saw that one valve looked bent, so they removed the head to inspect it further and discovered that it looked like one valve in each cylinder had hit the piston head. So, they sent the head off to a machine shop and that is where we stand right now. I don't know if they'll have to replace more than just the four that are visibly damaged. Hope not. The valves could have been damaged when the tensioner first failed, when we tried unsuccessfully to start it, or when the mechanic started it and it ran roughly. No way to tell.
I can't see getting out of this for less that $2000 and probably more.
I have a 2000 Passat that sat in rain for a couple of days. Then I turned it on and all of the warning lights were on, none of the gauges worked (temp, gas speed), the clock/milage did not work but the car ran fine - even the radio worked. That was a few days ago. Today I started the car and the same conditions re-occurred. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes but that did not change anything.
Any help would be appreciated.
With the problems I have had with this vehicle including gaskets, seals, tie rod ends, lock cylinders, and other items mechanics at 2 garages who specialize in Vw\W have advised me to sell it asap. They both say the Passat are very expensive and " just get rid of it".
Thanks!
I was just reading this forum and saw all the posts about problems. It looks scary.
The car seems new, had only 60K miles on it. What I should be looking for? Should I look for japanese car?
Appreciate your help!!
Thanks
People with bad experiences will obviously feel differently than I do about my car, but that is the same with all makes. The Japanese car (2001 Acura TL) we had before the Passat went through 2 transmissions, one dash board, and several other small problems in the 55k miles we had it. It had good power, but wasn't has fun to drive IMO. And it used a lot more gas. Of course, no one can tell the future with the vehicle you choose, but in my experience, the Passat has been a great car.
I have an '03 Passat, 1.8T, with 60,000 miles. Since purchased new in 11/2002, I've spent about $3,500 on maintenance and full synth oil changes - (including three sets of tires, 1 set of front brakes, 2 sets of rear brakes, and two outer CV boots).
Good luck with your decision.
I've had to replace mulitple oil gaskets, I've had to reattach a part of the ceiling fabric, the backseat cupholder broke almost immediately; the ABS Control Unit is dead; The airconditioner has a leak in/under the dashboard.
No more Passats for me.
Your trouble sounds similar to one I had with a Saab. In my case the car would stall anytime. It turned out to be the Throttle Body. Once that was replaced a number of problems were corrected including Cruise Control. The trouble is that it cannot be detected most of the time because when it is working no faults are registered. I lucked out with a mechanic who specialized in Saabs and he was not employed at a dealer. Might be worth a test.
Opinions? :confuse:
VW dealers want 800-$1000 to replace with new unit / 12 month warranty.
You can get rebuilds for 1/2 that.
PS I feel your pain on gaskets. I replaced 2 last week
Mark
I prefer someone in Culver City, Marina del Rey, etc.
Thanks!
Fan would not come on and would have to keep heater on to keep the car from over heating. Took the battery out and had it tested...battery is good. Now when the battery is hooked back up the fan immediately turns on w/o the key in ignition.
Is this a relay or wire problem? Thanks for any help