Aug 30, 2005, Bought my new RT in SC at employee discount price. Came to about $4500 less. However, that makes it like a Saturn, no more haggling and don't expect a great trade in allowance either.
Well, my friend, if you want loud, put on the Mopar cold air intake. I had the dealer install mine this morning, drove it 30 miles, went home and took it off, boxed it up and will take it back tomorrow. I have an old 78 vette that I have juiced up to 520 hp and it makes noise so I am used to noise but this CAI made the RT sound exactly as if you had just lost a muffler. It was amazing.
$27,500. RWD, dual air, stereo with 6 cd changer, privacy curtain. I will really miss the sunroof, steering wheel controls and DRL, auto lamps etc. of my 04 GTP CompG but this car is good stuff. It feels so much stronger than the SC 260hp Grand Prix. Even with all the extra weight.
If you have the dual A/C you have AutoLamp (headlights come on at dusk or with the wipers).
Using small screwdriver simply remove the knob. Insert the screwdriver tip 180 degrees away from the white indicator and gently pry it off.
Inside you will find a slot from about 10 o'clock to 1:30 o'clock. At 2 o' clock you will see a black boss (detent)...leave this one alone. At 3 o'clock you will see another boss the same size. Using a dremel tool (with a tissue in the slot to prevent dust contamination of the insides) remove the second boss. Diagonal cutters will probably work too, but isn't pretty! Replace the knob by pushing it back on the "D" shaft.
Your switch will then rotate one position to the left of the "O" (off) position where the "A" (auto) sign is on the 300C switch. If you are really clever you can borrow one of the kids gel pens and make your own "A".
If you do not wish to do all of this work you can simply replace the whole switch assembly with one meant for the 300C...it is a simple clip & plug operation. The cost is about $30 - 45 for the switch.
Apologies to the admins. for an earlier posting, now removed, that linked you to another site with photos of both processes
I had the same shudder\noise when I hit a bump-they replaced the steering gear AND a tie rod end. Good Luck. Now I have to take it in because it "surges" when you brake. I'm guessing rotors.
Pushbutton, I did as you describe and yes, it turns lights on automatically but I astill have to turn them off when I shut the car down. Is this true in your case also?
Exvette, you need to have your dealer hook up the programming tool to enable the auto shutdown and (if you want) the headlight on w/ wipers, which is required in some states...nice to have! The dealer should do it for free or minimal cost when done with other service.
Mine work completely automatically when in the "A" mode; 'on' at dusk, 'off' at dawn or when the engine is turned off, also 'on' when the wipers are in use.
On occasion, when I start the engine on my 2005 Dodge Magnum RT AWD, the ESP BAS warning lights stay on instead of going off as they should. The only way I can get the warning lights to go off is to turn the engine off and restart it and the warning lights usually go off. The dealer thought it was a low battery and recharged the battery but this did not resolve the problem. The nest time I brought the car in, it was diagnosed as needing a new steering angle sensor, so it was replaced with a new one. But after a few days the warning lights came on again. Does anyone have any information concerning this problem? Thanks
Can three carseats fit in the backseat of the Magnum.... specifically, one rear facing seat, and two front facing toddler seats? Has anyone attempted this....I really don't want an SUV and I love the Magnum's styling. Thanks in advance.
Just picked up my new Magnum today. (RT AWD FULLY LOADED total: $39000 discount $34000.) Last fully loaded Mag with AWD and everything on it in Michigan. Some people like to have the first but I got the last . Is there any Mag owners on this site that live In Michigan? sometimes I see a black one and a white driving around. I live in Farmington MI on the border of Livonia. OH..... I was out late last night and there was a Mazada 6 (manual) at the light in the right lane so I say W.T.F it will be my fist kill and I get in the left lane next to him. I dont have to do a thing and all of a sudden he starts revving the hell out of his mazda. so I put her in park revved it and put it back in drive sift down to first light turns green and I think you know what happens from there :P . Oh and I was wondering is there any good way to make my mag faster with a good mod? I did a run to 60 in 6.4 sec and want it to be a least 5.8 is there any way to do that?
P.S. If any one on the forum wants to have a meet/get together let me know.
tslbmw, I suppose they are all left over now that the 06 is coming out. I shopped locally and they had several brand new ones there. There was another red one that had everything imaginable, AWD, nav, etc. Could have had for $6k more but what man needs a navigate system? Certainly not a hemi-man. And would need AWD maybe two days out of the year where I live.
Just this mod last night... took about 15-20 minutes to perform. When I was done fired it up and the lights came on... Worked great when I left for work at 6am this morning by the time I got to work it was bright enough for them to shut off. No software programing required for mine to work. I have not tried them with the wipers. Pushbutton: when you turn your wipers on with the headlight switch to "auto" the lights come on, or did I miss something.
In NYS, as in some others, one is required to have the headlights on when the wipers are in use...it a safety / visibility issue. IF YOU HAVE AutoLamp enabled you can ALSO get the headlamps with wipers enabled, but that is a second s/w change. On some models this may have already been s/w enabled, others not.
The headlamps with wipers simply works by switching on the wiper switch with or without daylight and the headlamps will come on until the wipers are shut off.
In my case I tried to get them both enabled with s/w first..but that did not work. I then made the physical change to the lamp switch and voila both AutoLamp and headlights with wipers worked.
My RT did not require any software changes to make the autolights work... I will check to see if when I turn the wipers on with my lights in auto mode that they turn on... Did you change the software with EVIC (which I do not have) or did the dealer perform the task? If it was the dealer was it a Dodge dealer or Chrysler. Thanks..
:shades: I had/have a similar 'situation' with my car, the engine light comes on and the engine revs very high from the start.
I've noticed that (sometimes, about 10% of the time) when I start the car and I have the a/c on, this situation occurs, the engine light flashes and as soon as I release the brake the car is taking off.
To remedy this, I turn the car off and make sure all the electronics are off and restart and the car is back to normal.
Notice if this happens when the a/c is on. :shades:
EVIC is the device in some of the cars which displays things electronic[for the benefit of other readers] ...that does not give you the wipers operational choice.
The dealer, in my case Dodge, did it for free. I assume that a Chrysler dealer could also do it since the cars use the same basic electronic package, only the car driven menu would come up with somewhat different choices in the programmer.
Thanks. I just got back from the dealership. they had a "start right" seminar. We got a free dinner and lots of good door prizes were handed out. any way I got to speak with the shop foreman. I asked him the same question. he had a 05 Magnum RT there on display to answer any questions. guess what he showed Me??....a transmision cooler! thats right all RT's with the Tow package have an external transmission cooler. it was located at teh very front under the hood. he had to remove a plastic shield. I dont know if the RTs without the tow package have them. So all I have to do is have the hitch and wireing installed and I am ready to go. I also found out the MDS does not kick in until after 55mph. also if any of you are hearing a loud noise like a stone hitting your window....it is a factory bolt that was used to install the dash board. it should have been removed after install but they never took it out. the dealer will remove it for free. the foreman said it would take about 20 to 30 minutes.
Some good information in this posting. One item that is not correct, though, is the speed at which MDS works. MDS, which shuts off half of the HEMI's eight cylinders for better fuel economy, functions from 18mph up to 89mph. In fact, the biggest savings is found between 25 and 40 mph.
I've upgraded to the 2006 Magnum RT... It has the auto headlight function, fully functional electronics for the passenger front seat (2005 only had power forward and back electronics, the power windows on both driver and passenger side go up and down automattically with a singly push of the button. The interior is much more comfortable and now more right hand pull. We loved our 2005 but it had issues and I'm glad to have my 2006. It is a real upgrade.
I got the exact car I had with my 2005 and the actual cost was just over 1K more at 33.1K. My 2006 has all options other than towing, AWD and Nav system. My 2005's front seats were firmer to sit in and they could get uncomfortable on long rides. The 2006 has a much more comfortable interior. My wife and I are thrilled with the new Magnum.
Thanks, pushbutton. Around the world 5 times and first time I ever saw s/w used for that. On the auto lamps stuff, my service writer tells me he may be forced to charge me $40 for the programming. And I knew this guy from the Nissan dealership where I had bought an 02 3.5 Altima and then an 04 Maxima. So much for establishing friendships, eh?
I have owned the Magnum RT AWD since 2/05. This summer on a trip south in May, the air conditioner froze up a dozen times during the trip. I returned the car 2 times but the car will never act up during a dealer visit. I took a picture of the Suction line side of the air conditioner under the hood because the ice had formed from there to inside the vents. The suction line was within 2 inches of the exhaust header but was cover with ice. The second time back to the garage and they Flashed the CPU which helped but did not correct the problem. There fix now is not to use the low speed on the fan and do not use the recycle selection. The problem is air flow across the evaporator, just not enough air when set on low. 9/14/05 It looks as though the warranty will be up before the fix is in.
So they are telling you how to us your ac. You bought your car about 30 g's and you can not us your ac on low what BS. I would be pissed with that. I would like to have my ac work the right way. Please let us know what happens
I just bought my Magnum and on the way home had similar problems. It had 29 miles on it, now 80 or so, and the wheel was shaking badly on the freeway.
I'm very curious- what have you figured out? Anything? I am planning on calling the dealer in the morning and would love to know the fix you've come up with...
I test drove an AWD that had the same problem. Needless to say I did not buy it. I later bought another AWD from a different dealer that has not exhibited the problem.
I have read that others have had trouble with Continental self-sealing tires. Apparently the sealing goop can roll up into a ball inside the tire [versus lying flat on the inside of the tread area] and cause the problem of which you speak. The dealers and/or Continental tire people have done 100% replacements for free of the defective tires.
Yep I have a prop rod, guess it is an '06, I doubt if even Dodge would falsly sell an '05 as an '06! PS Sorry so late in replying I haven't been here fo a couple weeks.
does anyone know of a place where i can get clear reflectors to replace the ugly orange ones that are on the headlights. i have a 2005 magnum. any help would be appreciated. thanks again. timkelly2000@hotmail.com
So far I have gotten my dealer to pay for half the tire cost. The dealer replaced all 4 tires last week, after I sent him some of the post from this forum. The dealer is suppose to an alignment of the vehical this week. I have had the car for a week now, and have noticed a slight share around 70 mph. The dealer put on Goodyear Assurance tires...P225 60 R18's. This is about the only other tire available for this car.
They are also replacing my 2 tail lights, there is moister build up inside the casing. I have also had a transmission leak at 10k.
I ran into a lady at the gas pump the other day, asking me how I liked my Magnum. I told her I liked it, except I had to replace the tires at 20k. She said that she had the 300C, and is having the same problems, and had to replace her tires at 20k. She said she wants to crash it into a wall.
Others have reported that the Goodrich three season KDW (G-Force Sport) and the four season M&S KDWS (G-force T/A) which are available in a close size, 245-55ZR-18, can run on the Magnum. It [optionally] requires a tire size adjustment to the s/w to correct a small speedo error. They have reported improved handling as well as tire mileage.
Two days ago I came out of the office and the front wheel of my '05 Magnum RT was almost flat. Changed the tire and saw a big screw in there. Went to Just Tires to get it patched but they then called me back saying they can't patch a self sealing tire. I could order a new one or put on two Goodyear Asssurance tires which I did. Since I am not impressed with the Continentals anyway I guess it was the right thing to do and I plan to replace the other two tires in the next six months as well. Not cheap though. Was about $400 for the replacement.
Now my question: has anyone dealt with the Continental warranty? Should I have called them first and gotten the tire replaced by them? I am the 2nd owner of this car. How easy are they to deal with? Or are they a big pain and it would have taken forever? I have almost 16000 miles on the car. Tread so far still looks ok. This is primarily for future reference. Realized that it might have been wiser (cheaper) to call Continental first...
I'm new to this forum, just bought my R/T Magnum 2 weeks ago. Right after it was delivered I noticed some hard downshifting in the tranny. Took in in and they said they didn't know why it was doing that, and would find out. About 2 days after that I noticed significant shuddering in the drivetrain on light acceleration. Took it back in, and they said they could not duplicate the problem. I was able to duplicate it every time it was cruising at 40 mph and accelerated lightly. Their attitude at the dealership was that I was crazy. I insisted they look into the transmission problem, and guess what? They finally admitted to me that there was a faulty O-Ring between the transmission cooler and the radiator that allowed coolant to leak into the transmission! AAaggh! They told me there was a tech bulletin out about it - apparently that O-ring was installed in several transmissions manufactured between certain dates. This info came after complaining loudly to the owner of the dealership. I think I used the :lemon: word a couple of times. I demanded they replace the entire transmission, and they reluctantly agreed. I am now driving an R/T Charger loaner until they get the new trans in from the factory, about 3- four days. I have to say the Charger is much better behaved than my Magnum was. Once the water/glucose mixture gets into the sensitive tranny components, it's ruined no matter how many times it's flushed. And taking apart the case to repair it isn't a good fix either. Those things are sealed from the factory and it would be like trying to put together a cracked egg. Does that make sense? Anyway, it seems like you are having the same situation. Tell them there is a tech bulletin about it, there is a defective part, and that you know of at least one other customer who has successfully had their transmission replaced. The longer the coolant is allowed to circulate in the tranny, the worse it will become. Hope this helps, and if anyone else is having tranny problems, tell your service rep to check that O-ring immediately. Better yet, refer them to the service bulletin.
I own an '05 Magnum RT, 21K miles, and had trouble finding an aftermarket airfilter- none were listed in catalogs yet. I had been removing the filter and blowing it out with compressed air at each oil change. I finally found one listed on the Fram website (CA9838). Went to the local Auto Zone and found a STP filter in stock with the same number (9838). I replaced it and hit the road for a 120 mile one way trip. Fuel mileage went from an average of 25-26 MPG to 29.7 on the down leg, and round trip average was 27.7 according to the computer. Elevation change was 1040 feet (downhill on the first leg, uphill on the return). Ran on cruise control at the speed limit (65 with occasional passing bursts up to 100 mph), no A/C. I think these are pretty impressive numbers for a 4200 pound car with a V8, and considering an almost 4mpg difference, think the 9 bucks spent on the new filter half paid for itself in that short trip. I'll be changing filters more often now that I have found aftermarkets...seems like a lot of air makes that Hemi happy !
Any comments on K&N AirCharger or Typhoon systems ?
I can vouch for everything Jaylin has said. They blamed it on everything from the driver, the wheels (22s), and really I am just sick of hearing excuses. Then they finally admitted that there was a bulletin out for the faulty o-ring seal. I have gone through them fixing the transmission problems once, and it is already happening again. I am about to lay it on them!
Hello, I am new at this so please forgive me if this in not the correct way to post...I am getting ready to purchase a 2005 Magnum RT 5.7 with special ordered 20" wheels that the dealer had installed....there are many reasons why I desire to own this car. One reason was the AWD, but unfortunately, they have not come in yet...so I am purchasing this one with hopes of purchasing an AWD within the next year or so....I live out in the country and we only get about 10 days of bad weather here in the midwest, but how does it handle in 1-5 inches of snow? Do you like the ESP? The end of my driveway is a 30' slow inclined hill and at times our Jeep Wrangler has a hard time getting up this hill. Any and all comments would be appreciated.... Thank you for your time... Smiles, Renee-soon to be a new owner of a Inferno Red Crystal Magnum RT!
Since you are eventually getting an AWD be aware that your 20" wheels (or any size for that matter) will need a different offset for the AWD (55mm, I believe vs. about 28mm for the RWD).
I found that the stock AWD wheels will 'grow' on you after a while! So you might want to defer the 20" decision for a bit. You may want to upgrade the tires at purchase if it comes with Contis...many have had premature tire wear vs the BFGs mentioned on the prior of this thread.
We haven't had it thru a winter yet so I can't comment on the 'go in the snow'...but I assume that it is great. The only time I drove in the snow was in a demo last March. I hit a small snow/ice patch on an expressway entrance right turn, the rear end started to step then immediately corrected itself before I knew what happened.
I got the car back after having the transmission replaced (the O-ring deal), and it does drive significantly better. Another difference I noticed is that I now get much better gas mileage. When I first got the car it was getting a horrible 13.5 average MPG, and now it has shot up to 19.2. I will keep monitoring and see if it settles at 19 or goes higher. Now I hope the problem has been solved and I can settle down to enjoy the Magnum. Oh, and ilovefast, you can order an AWD Magnum if they don't have it at your dealer. I know for sure they have some at a dealer in Dallas, so if they have them there, they have to have them elsewhere. Just tell your sales rep to do a search in a wide radius around your area. That's how I got my RT with tow package.
Comments
Using small screwdriver simply remove the knob. Insert the screwdriver tip 180 degrees away from the white indicator and gently pry it off.
Inside you will find a slot from about 10 o'clock to 1:30 o'clock. At 2 o' clock you will see a black boss (detent)...leave this one alone. At 3 o'clock you will see another boss the same size. Using a dremel tool (with a tissue in the slot to prevent dust contamination of the insides) remove the second boss. Diagonal cutters will probably work too, but isn't pretty! Replace the knob by pushing it back on the "D" shaft.
Your switch will then rotate one position to the left of the "O" (off) position where the "A" (auto) sign is on the 300C switch. If you are really clever you can borrow one of the kids gel pens and make your own "A".
If you do not wish to do all of this work you can simply replace the whole switch assembly with one meant for the 300C...it is a simple clip & plug operation. The cost is about $30 - 45 for the switch.
Apologies to the admins. for an earlier posting, now removed, that linked you to another site with photos of both processes
I did as you describe and yes, it turns lights on automatically but I astill have to turn them off when I shut the car down. Is this true in your case also?
Mine work completely automatically when in the "A" mode; 'on' at dusk, 'off' at dawn or when the engine is turned off, also 'on' when the wipers are in use.
total: $39000 discount $34000.) Last fully loaded Mag with AWD and everything on it in Michigan. Some people like to have the first but I got the last
P.S. If any one on the forum wants to have a meet/get together let me know.
I suppose they are all left over now that the 06 is coming out. I shopped locally and they had several brand new ones there. There was another red one that had everything imaginable, AWD, nav, etc. Could have had for $6k more but what man needs a navigate system?
The headlamps with wipers simply works by switching on the wiper switch with or without daylight and the headlamps will come on until the wipers are shut off.
In my case I tried to get them both enabled with s/w first..but that did not work. I then made the physical change to the lamp switch and voila both AutoLamp and headlights with wipers worked.
:shades: I had/have a similar 'situation' with my car, the engine light comes on and the engine revs very high from the start.
I've noticed that (sometimes, about 10% of the time) when I start the car and I have the a/c on, this situation occurs, the engine light flashes and as soon as I release the brake the car is taking off.
To remedy this, I turn the car off and make sure all the electronics are off and restart and the car is back to normal.
Notice if this happens when the a/c is on. :shades:
The dealer, in my case Dodge, did it for free. I assume that a Chrysler dealer could also do it since the cars use the same basic electronic package, only the car driven menu would come up with somewhat different choices in the programmer.
I SHOULD HAVE WENT WITH THE SUBARU OUTBACK XT...... :mad:
Slam2
Slam2
Good luck :confuse:
I'm very curious- what have you figured out? Anything? I am planning on calling the dealer in the morning and would love to know the fix you've come up with...
I have read that others have had trouble with Continental self-sealing tires. Apparently the sealing goop can roll up into a ball inside the tire [versus lying flat on the inside of the tread area] and cause the problem of which you speak. The dealers and/or Continental tire people have done 100% replacements for free of the defective tires.
PS Sorry so late in replying I haven't been here fo a couple weeks.
They are also replacing my 2 tail lights, there is moister build up inside the casing. I have also had a transmission leak at 10k.
I ran into a lady at the gas pump the other day, asking me how I liked my Magnum. I told her I liked it, except I had to replace the tires at 20k. She said that she had the 300C, and is having the same problems, and had to replace her tires at 20k. She said she wants to crash it into a wall.
Now my question: has anyone dealt with the Continental warranty? Should I have called them first and gotten the tire replaced by them? I am the 2nd owner of this car. How easy are they to deal with? Or are they a big pain and it would have taken forever? I have almost 16000 miles on the car. Tread so far still looks ok. This is primarily for future reference. Realized that it might have been wiser (cheaper) to call Continental first...
About 2 days after that I noticed significant shuddering in the drivetrain on light acceleration. Took it back in, and they said they could not duplicate the problem. I was able to duplicate it every time it was cruising at 40 mph and accelerated lightly. Their attitude at the dealership was that I was crazy.
I insisted they look into the transmission problem, and guess what? They finally admitted to me that there was a faulty O-Ring between the transmission cooler and the radiator that allowed coolant to leak into the transmission! AAaggh! They told me there was a tech bulletin out about it - apparently that O-ring was installed in several transmissions manufactured between certain dates. This info came after complaining loudly to the owner of the dealership. I think I used the :lemon: word a couple of times.
I demanded they replace the entire transmission, and they reluctantly agreed. I am now driving an R/T Charger loaner until they get the new trans in from the factory, about 3- four days. I have to say the Charger is much better behaved than my Magnum was.
Once the water/glucose mixture gets into the sensitive tranny components, it's ruined no matter how many times it's flushed. And taking apart the case to repair it isn't a good fix either. Those things are sealed from the factory and it would be like trying to put together a cracked egg. Does that make sense?
Anyway, it seems like you are having the same situation. Tell them there is a tech bulletin about it, there is a defective part, and that you know of at least one other customer who has successfully had their transmission replaced. The longer the coolant is allowed to circulate in the tranny, the worse it will become.
Hope this helps, and if anyone else is having tranny problems, tell your service rep to check that O-ring immediately. Better yet, refer them to the service bulletin.
- Jaylin 2005 silver R/T Magnum
Any comments on K&N AirCharger or Typhoon systems ?
I am new at this so please forgive me if this in not the correct way to post...I am getting ready to purchase a 2005 Magnum RT 5.7 with special ordered 20" wheels that the dealer had installed....there are many reasons why I desire to own this car. One reason was the AWD, but unfortunately, they have not come in yet...so I am purchasing this one with hopes of purchasing an AWD within the next year or so....I live out in the country and we only get about 10 days of bad weather here in the midwest, but how does it handle in 1-5 inches of snow? Do you like the ESP? The end of my driveway is a 30' slow inclined hill and at times our Jeep Wrangler has a hard time getting up this hill. Any and all comments would be appreciated....
Thank you for your time...
Smiles,
Renee-soon to be a new owner of a Inferno Red Crystal Magnum RT!
I found that the stock AWD wheels will 'grow' on you after a while! So you might want to defer the 20" decision for a bit. You may want to upgrade the tires at purchase if it comes with Contis...many have had premature tire wear vs the BFGs mentioned on the prior of this thread.
We haven't had it thru a winter yet so I can't comment on the 'go in the snow'...but I assume that it is great. The only time I drove in the snow was in a demo last March. I hit a small snow/ice patch on an expressway entrance right turn, the rear end started to step then immediately corrected itself before I knew what happened.
Now I hope the problem has been solved and I can settle down to enjoy the Magnum.
Oh, and ilovefast, you can order an AWD Magnum if they don't have it at your dealer. I know for sure they have some at a dealer in Dallas, so if they have them there, they have to have them elsewhere. Just tell your sales rep to do a search in a wide radius around your area. That's how I got my RT with tow package.
- Jaylinb
'05 Silver Bullet