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Oil Changes

dreamer2bdreamer2b Posts: 1
edited March 2014 in Ford
I have a 99 ford escort and was wandering how often i have to do an oil change. I have 107,000 kms on it and drive at least 70km a day.


  • bretfrazbretfraz Posts: 2,021
    If you changed it every 5000-6000 km and used a quality name brand oil and oil filter, I think your car will be just fine.
  • I get my oil changed every 3000 miles. My car only has 7008 miles on it and I've had the oil changed, as well as the filter, twice.
  • I recently had the purge valve and sensor replaced on my 97 Escort (SOHC). The yellow check engine light has been on for like the past 2 years, but a week back it began to blink...So thinking things that blinking in the car are bad, I dreaded going into the repair shop and opening the checkbook. But I was pleasantly surprised to learn that in addition to some arching that was going on with some spark plugs, the purge valve was "in need" of replacement. The 2nd set of spark plugs and 2nd set of wires, and a new purge valve and sensor removed the yellow light problem and allows the car to run more smoothly, like the 35 mpg, still getting at over 130K miles. Other than tires, 1 set of brakes, and a timing belt replaced at 70K the car has been great. The purge valve and sensor, locateed under the air intake hose where the air filter is kept, cost $64, plug wires were $53, platnium plugs $9, labor 2 hrs which included the diagnostic checkout. I think because of the mileage I have in the vehicle I'm a pathfinder not a problem seeker. But any comments will/may assist others.
  • I have a 93 escort with 220,000 miles on it.
    It still runs great. I change the oil every 3000
  • That was an easy one!
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    changed oil in his Buick Fireball 8. He just kept changing the filters every five thousand miles and added a quart when down a quart. He ran that Buick for 125,000 miles that way and never torqued the block.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    While lying under my car this weekend, and dealing with the inevitable mess of dripping oil when I unscrew the filter, I had an epiphany. What I want is a little sharp tool I can use to cleanly punch a hole in the filter, thus letting it drain before unscrewing. Anyone know of such a thing?
  • malachy72malachy72 Posts: 325
    heard that many use a screwdriver or ice pick, FWIW.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    ...y'know, I never even thought of that! I remember years ago, when an oil filter had worked its way on too tightly on my '80 Malibu 229, my grandfather did drive a screwdriver into it with a hammer, and then beat on the screwdriver handle with the hammer to knock the filter loose.

    The oil naturally drained out when the filter was punctured, but I didn't even think of this as a potential benefit at the time...I was just thankful he got the filter off!

    I had to do that trick again, about 10 years later. The oil filter on my '79 Newport was on too tight, and instead of twisting off, it crumpled up! The top part of the cannister twisted, but the base did not, causing it to twist, kinda wasp-waisted, in the middle. I remembered Granddad's old screwdriver trick, and it came off without a hitch.

    Thankfully, I think that was the last time I put an oil filter on too tight!

    An icepick (I think there's some similar tool called an "awl", too) would be fine for draining an oil filter. If you ever need to use a screwdriver to get a filter off though, make sure you use one long enough to punch all the way through both sides of the filter, so you'll have the leverage to get it off.
  • If your efforts ever leave you with only the base plate still on the car, and all else ripped away in the effort to remove, there is a tool available that slides into the holes on the base plate. The other end of the tool provides a socket wrench attachment. I have a set of these tools which I have never had to use. I hope to keep it that way!
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    me to remove the lid off a large jar. I couldn't budge it, but my oil filter wrench did the job immediately. Only in America.
  • Also, oil filters serve absolutely no function, except maybe to impede the flow of oil. Just see the Oil Filter board for details. So how could changing the filters have helped? Myswell as just left the filter off completely.
  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    i have a 03 trailblazer now im wondering do i wait for the computer to tell me when to change my oil not the miles???? plus in a chevy what difference would synthetic make in a new how do i reset the computer when i do change the oil thanks.chevy
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,582
    Also, oil filters serve absolutely no function, except maybe to impede the flow of oil.
    Do what??!!
    Someone actually said that?
    Hmmm, I have alot of data that says otherwise.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,582
    This vehicle has an engine oil life monitor. The GM Oil Life System will show when to change the engine oil and oil filter. This will usually occur between 5,000 km (3,000 mi) and 12,500 km (7,500 mi) since the last oil change. Under severe conditions, the indicator may come on before 5,000 km (3,000 mi).

    Vehicle should not be driven more than 12,500 km (7,500 mi) or 12 months without an oil and oil filter change. The system will not detect dust in the oil. So if the vehicle is driven in a dusty area, be sure to change the oil and oil filter every 5,000 km (3,000 mi) or sooner if the "CHANGE OIL SOON" indicator comes on. Reset the system when the oil has been changed.

    Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine.
    Fully push and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times with-in five seconds.
    If the "CHANGE ENG OIL" light flashes for five seconds, the system is reset. If the light does not flash, repeat the procedure.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Regarding the use of oil filters You stated "Hmmm, I have alot of data that says otherwise. "

    Can you provide please. Personally, in todays engines and with todays oils I am heavily leaning to stating that filters are pretty much useless and for catastrophic failures only. They basically capture no contaminants and due at times impede flow. The oil does all the work.

    So, if you have "actual real life studies" and data please provide.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,582
    Most of it is oil analysis sheets.
    To compile it would be a ton of work, but let's look at it from the standpoint of the engine.
    Most filters are what, 15 micron, so anything smaller than that goes thru the system. 15 microns will go thru the clearances of the bearings, so they usually pass thru and are suspended in the oil. Anything larger than the 15-25 micron won't pass thru the clearances, so they will do damage. When you figure the clearances, they are more than the 15 micron.
    Hydraulic systems on the other hand require 5 micron filtering, because of the closer tolerances in the valving, motors and pumps. So alot of hydraulic filters filter 5 micron and above. The design principle is that the 5 micron particles will pass between the tolerances of the valves and pumps, anything large should be captured in the filter and not go thru the system.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Is the quantity of 15 _+ micron particles in the oil and to what extent they will decrease the longevity of the engine. Almost anything built today will go 100,000 plus miles with cheap SL rated dino oil every 3000 miles and no filter IMO, Now, throw in a filter and same change interval and will the engine go longer. That is what we don't know and has not been proven out in real life studies.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,582
    Well, yes and no.
    You can pull apart any oil filter and see the results of the +15 micron particles.
    Now, about what has been proven in real life studies. The trucks that I work on are extreme duty trucks, range from 1 tons to 120,000 lb haulers. They all get oil analysis done on them.
    In extreme cases (hauling in high heat, extremely dusty and smokey conditions hauling machinery into fire areas) on the heavy haulers, there has been occasion where the oil filter became plugged and the oil bypassed. In those instances, the silicate, copper, lead and tin content spiked.
    silicate is dirt and water. copper, lead and tin are bearings. You can pretty much draw a conclusion from that.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    The average US driver does not encounter your conditions and those trucks probably have bypass as well. Every filter that I have cut open (analysis also) and on other boards where filters have been analyzed there are basically no contaminants in the media, nothing. This has been at 3000 miles and 10,000 miles. Your comparison is similar to the companies that say if it is good enough for racing cars it is good enough for mine. Not true. Racing engines get torn down and rebuilt after every race, long term protection is not of interest, less detergents in the oil, HP is what counts. Your truck scenario of heavy loads, dusty conditions bears no semblance to a real life average driver car. Anyway, we need real life average daily driver studies to really show if filters do anything other then house more oil in the average car.

    We simply do not have those.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,582
    I can see your viewpoint, but also see the otherside of that. When Mt St. Helen's blew, I saw vehicle after vehicle that ash had gone into the oil system. This in itself was severe, but without an oil filter would have been catastophic on thousands of vehicles.
    Now I know that isn't something that happens alot, but my point is, that it is better to have an added edge to protect your engine.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I guess what I am also saying is that the quality of the filter may not make difference in the long run. A fram will capture the volcanic ash as well as a Mobil 1 in all probability.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    ...when oil filters were actually optional on cars! I vaguely remember reading an old ad for a 1940 DeSoto, and one of the bragging features was that it had a standard oil filter where it was optional on competing cars!

    I think those old oil filters were a different design, too. There used to be something called an oil bath, but I don't know what it was. My buddy's '55 DeSoto Coronado had one. My '57 Firedome has a round cannister that you have to take off, and there's a drop-in filter. Real pain in the butt to have to get all the little gaskets lined up just right or it'll leak like crazy. I could almost understand it if people didn't change these things!

    Chrysler started using the spin-on type oil filter that is so common today in 1958, on the wedge-head big-block engines. I don't know who actually first came out with it, though.

    What kind of filter would a 1950 Buick have had?
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    developed in the mid-fifties. Quality has been going down steadily since that time!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040 just hit me, the "oil bath" thing I was thinking of was actually the air filter, not the oil filter. I guess my buddy's '55 DeSoto had the cartridge that drops in the cannister, like my '57.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    had a college buddy who kept an old mid-50s Ford Customline sedan for a lot of years... and when he got the urge to go bumping down rail lines periodically, he had to pull hte top off that thing, lift or pry the old filter out of the tar in the oil bath, drain, fill, and put in another filter.

    nasty, dirty, evil, tarry creatures those oil bath filter cans were. I can imagine the air filter unit would be even worse, but I seem to remember that car had a dry filter for air.

    ish. much nicer to pour the old oil out of a spin-on, feel how much heavier it is than the new one, and how much dirtier the oil is coming out the center hole than out the edge holes (the direction of filtering in recent Fords I have owned.)

    I have no doubt the filter is catching things I would not want sprayed on one side of the rod bearings.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Scott, you're going back. I used to get stuck with servicing oil bath air filters when I started my apprenticeship.
  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    i got a 03 tblazer and i need to know this actually when do you change your oil 3000 or do what the book says when the monitor pops up on the display panel. im confused im over 3000 like 3100 im worried the monitor has not came on so well in one simple WORD HELP!!!!!!! plus i think i will get it done at the dealer resetting and all that stuff i dont im going might be going out of town so its urgent.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    and so it likely won't light up until something between 5000 and 7500 miles, your manual should have the correct figure.

    you're into hot philosophical discussion time as to whether you should dump the factory oil early or leave it in. chevy says leave it in. a large number of posters on this board including me figure on dumping factory oil and filter early, anyplace from 500 miles to 2000.

    if you're headed out on a trip of a couple days and will be back in town before you hit 5000 miles, it will be changed then at GM standards.

    if you wanna be a creaky old crank and try for 300,000 miles on the engine, change it before you leave and use a new GM oil filter as well.
This discussion has been closed.