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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • rickyprickyp Posts: 1
    My 2003 6s with AT seems to alternate between gears when I am smoothly and slowly accelerating. It usually occurs between 40 and 45 MPH. I notice it when I am trying to maintain speed in city traffic. It is very annoying. The dealer checked the AT and said it was operating normally. Does anyone else have this problem? I think I am going to request that the dealer look at it again and let me take them for a drive. If they still insist that it is normal I may ask to drive another 6s to compare.
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  • likaglovlikaglov Posts: 82
    I made an appointment with my Mazda dealer for the first service on my 04M6sAT and asked about PCM updates due to a "cold stall" problem and some "rough downshifts". They claim that they cannot simply update the PCMs, but they must verify any problems and "get permission" from Mazda to update anything. Is that standard procedure or are they blowing smoke?

    Also, anyone know where the AMB temp and interior temp sensors are located? Here in the HOT NC summer, the A/C runs max for a long time, even though the car feels plenty cool to me. I have to either turn off AUTO mode, or run the inside temp up to ~82-84 to get it to quit running the fan so high. It does cool the car quickly! just wondering about this AUTO feature...

    Thanks in advance.
  • nismofreaknismofreak Posts: 120
    I was reading in one of the car magazines (I get them all) apparently the auto climate control in our cars is hyperactive. The article stated that the programming for the ACC is a wee bit aggressive and they are toning it down in the 2005s. I am going through the same thing. You will also see that people on this board (and others) have complained about the A/C running in the winter when using the ACC. A very simple trick is to turn off the A/C manually but the ACC will continue to try to maintain the temp without the A/C running. I don't know if there is a fix for the '03s and 04s.

  • meeshumeeshu Posts: 3
    04M6 5spd 4cyl sport package
    I bought this car in April, and since 6/8 it has been in the shop for a total of 22 days. Just after 3000 mi the check engine light came on and the car would momentarly faulter when I was just starting out in first gear. The Mazda service rep replaced the runner valve (said it had been recalled, is this true?) and said I was good to go. The car has been back to them twice, and they now said they need to replace the wiring harness. Do they need to tear into the car in order to do this? I dont even want this car anymore, but it hasnot yet reached Lemon status under state law. Several times the service rep said he had the prob pegged, only to call me back and tell me the problem reoccered. The service mgr said only a district manager could OK a new car. Im pretty disgusted right now. Any help would be appreiciated.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    runner valve?
  • meeshumeeshu Posts: 3
    I dont know what they r either. Thats whats on the RO.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    They must be talking about the valve for the intake runners that controls the variable intake or "VICS". Your dealer replaced it because that's probably the code(s) that were stored after your check engine light went off. Call your dealer and ask for a better explanation.

    I've never heard of a recall on that, but I have a 2003. Haven't had a check engine light either with almost 12,000 miles (knock on wood).
  • I had some hail damage and final got my 6 back after about 30 days. However, they forgot to put the v6 emblems back on the door. I have seen cars with the emblem above the door strip and below the door strip. Why are they different, and which way does everyone prefer? Mine used to be under the door stip, but I think I like them above the door strip better.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    The cars with later (newer) build dates have them above the strip.
  • madaxemanmadaxeman Posts: 8
    Does anyone know how the extra fan works. I believe it's used to cool off the engine, but mine seems to be running quite often, even when the engine is shut off
  • I've been toying with my climate control in a 6 wagon, and noticed that it didn't like to let the A/C go off, even when the ambient temperature was lower than my desired temperature. So I switched it off, figuring I'd get better mileage and I didn't need it on. I was quickly reminded about the other factor in climate control, humidity. The climate control uses the A/C to condense humidity out of the air, even if it's not cooling the air. In fact, if you hit the front defrost button it will run the A/C even if it's cold out to strip out the moisture, then reheat the air (I assume, since it hasn't been cold enough to try it) before it shoots it into the cabin.

    The end result was, I decided having the dry air was worth the extra gas, so I let it do it's auto thing again.

    In reference to the sensors, the manual lists two sensors. One's on top of the dash in the front left corner, and I think it tries to tell how much sun heat it's dealing with. Another one is just down and right from the steering column, which I've seen in other cars, as well. I think it gets the actual temperature reading.
  • hot6hot6 Posts: 5
    Can someone confirm the offset of the OEM wheels? Is it 50mm or 60mm. I can't find any aftermaret wheels with a 60mm offset. If anyone knows of some, please advise.

    Hot 6
  • jason777jason777 Posts: 56
    After them changing the blower motor no less than 3 times, it is finally fixed.

    So yes the trattle is caused by the blower motor!

    Let me see 4 recalls, 2 rattles, 4 blower motors, squeaky brakes and a fan that stays on when the engine is turned off. If Mazda keeps this up their reputation is going to go to the gutter!

  • pubdefpubdef Posts: 14
    In the 03's the ambient sensor is in front of the radiator and behind the front grille insert, toward the passenger side; the interior's sensor is at the under-the-dash end of the rubber tube that terminates at its other end just to the right of the steering wheel (you can see little vent cut outs in the plastic--if you look behind them you can see a rubber hose--the sensor's at the other end of the hose). The sensor that's up on the dash near the windshield is one that, when it senses bright sunlight, cranks up the A/C fan setting. In really hot cloudy weather you can notice that the a/c will cool things down, and the fan speed will reduce accordingly. Then, if the clouds clear and the sun is bright, the fan speed will go back up even BEFORE the interior temp has a chance to rise.
  • likaglovlikaglov Posts: 82
    Thanks for the info, that makes a lot of sense. It has been very sunny and my fan has been working overtime. I also don't drive it much at night, so that's probably why I didn't notice the extra sunlight effect.
  • dufferduffer Posts: 4
    Had my 6s in to replace a tail light that would get moisture inside the lens. They said this is not that uncommon and always the right one. These are not sealed. Mazda is aware of this problem. Anyone else have this problem? Also, while the lens was being replaced they did a recall msp02 reprogram PCM. They guy said something about a rcalibration. Anyone hear about this?
  • Yes yes I just bought a MZ6s today with an autotransmission. But two things are bothering me:
    Whenever I come to a stop, even a gentle one, I can hear the gas in the gas tank (at least thats what I hope it is) swushing around, and it is rather annoying.
    The second thing is the very rough downshift from 4th to 3rd gear. The car jerks and the transition is easily noticable. Has anyone else had these problems?
  • likaglovlikaglov Posts: 82
    My 04M6sAT is at the shop today for its first service. The manager called me and said he "discovered" a msp02 PCM update which it needed. I asked him why I wasn't notified of this before, either through recall notice or VIN check on the Mazda site, but he did not know. He looked it up and said it is an update to the "check engine light" software. As he explained it: when you lock the car with the remote, it does a diagnostic check, including a voltage check. If you then lock it again (to sound the horn) it might measure a "low voltage" due to a voltage spike of sounding the horn and trip the "check engine" light. This update addresses that issue.
  • likaglovlikaglov Posts: 82
    16 - glad you finally got the car, congrats!

    I have not noticed the gas noise (I have a 6sAT sedan). I DO have a problem with very rough downshifts, it jerks quite a bit! 4->3 and 3->2 are both pretty rough, depending on how hard I am braking. I have my car at the shop today, they are supposed to be addressing this issue (among a couple of others, including cold-stall starts). My prior postings lead me to believe this can be resolved with a PCM update for the transmission. I'll let you know what the dealer says and if it's fixed soon.
  • likaglovlikaglov Posts: 82
    dodgeguy1 (you still there)?

    Did this solve your sulphur smell problem for good? I just noticed this smell in the past couple of weeks on my M6sAT (2500 miles). The dealer recommended that I switch from Shell to a different brand for a couple of weeks and if that doesn't solve it they would change the catalytic converter. Did you notice any difference in gas brands or were they all bad for you?
  • Just out of curiosity, have you had your car soundproofed?
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    From what I understand the PCM update recall has to do with the O2 sensor relating to the emmisson system.I also never received a recall notice. I found out about it on the Mazda tech site.
  • likaglovlikaglov Posts: 82
    I checked my VIN on the mazda-dot-com site and it did not show up. I asked the dealer about an O2 sensor issue (from your earlier post) and the dealer claimed to not know about that recall. They could be the same, but my dealer claimed they were not. Was there another site to check the VIN against for recalls?

    ALSO, the dealer called and said my service was done, they claimed:

    1) There is no update for the cold-stall issue, but Mazda is "investigating it".

    2) There is "no problem" with the hard downshifts. I'm VERY dissappointed in this; it is VERY noticable AND repeatable. Anyone else have experience with this?

    RICH, do you know of any 6s-AT PCM updates that might help these issues? - thanks...
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    That recall was program #MSP02 which had to do with the evaporative emission leak. That was straight from MazdaUSA. If you have any concerns about your car being part of it, I suggest you contact them. The only time I sometimes experience hard downshifts is when I go from 2nd-1st. It doesn't seem to happen very often.
  • Ya likaglov Im having the same problems and its the second day ive had my car. Btw, should I be concerned if I "revved" it to 6000rpm a couple times because of the break in period?
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    Mazda has released a TSB for those of you experiencing a clicking/clunking noise from the front end....They found the upper and lower coil spring insulators need to be replaced....your local dealer must confirm the noise prior to doing the TSB.

    This applies to cars built before Feb 11, 2004.
  • hboydhboyd Posts: 98
    The "gas swishing sound" Sweetsixteen descibed is completely normal. I've heard it on every Mazda and other vehicles I've driven. It is most noticeable when tanks are nearly full and the vehicle has just come to a standstill.

    You have good hearing. It's your back-up gauge letting you know that indeed their is a full tank of fuel onboard! No sound-deadening material will completely eliminate this phenomenon. Most fuel-tanks are already factory under-coated to deaden road-noise and your issue.

    Hope this helps
  • Thanks boyd. Does anyone have any input into the amount of time and/or limitations (what not to do) during the break in period?
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    Straight from the owner's manual:

    No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.
    • Don’t race the engine.
    • Don’t maintain one constant speed for long.
    • Don’t drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
    • Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
    • Avoid full-throttle starts.

    Seems pretty standard these days. Our Escape has the same guielines in it's manual but they want you to follow them for 1000 miles in that one.
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