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If the Tumble Swirl Control Valve is the reason for the erratic acceleration, what is the reason for having this valve?
Here's the link:
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Hope this helps.
FIY: i don't check this forum regularly so you can PM me off of the mazda6club site if you have other questions.
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I've had my car for a few months now, and find that the lower side of the side bolster on the left side is getting a bit fuzzy...
I have had a few recent instances of my alarm going off for no obvious reason. Once was before dark and twice after dark. While it could be kids attempting to enter the car, it seems a little difficult to accidently set it off. We tried pulling on the doors and rocking the car and were not able to set it off. The car has around 4500 miles on it right now.
Has anyone else had or heard of any alarm issues? We live in a condo and can't always hear the parking lot noise. I don't see any reason to go to the dealer yet, since it has been so sporatic. Can high winds set off the alarm?
Any ideas are welcome. TIA!
NJ where I live has a good one.Not sure about where you are.Mazda has done nothing to take care of this.....they just keep changing the part. The service managers where I go just shake their heads.This car has not worked right since I got it......Brand New in May 2005..what a joke.
Can't wait to give them back this lemon and get my money back.
You pay for a car that works,,,,a car that doesn't has no value. If I wanted to sell this car I couldn't...that's not fair..I'm making payments on a working car covered by warrantee repairs thatfix problems....that's not what I'm getting.
Rob
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Evelina
That's funny, because Mazda has won over 100 different awards for the Mazda 6 alone, from critics, journalists, and other automotive organizations.
I can't give you an answer as to why the critics pan Mazda, but in general, Mazdas are built for people that LOVE to drive, not just to get from A to B. For my $$$, the Mazda 3 and 6 are the BEST cars in their class, not because of passenger room, or the quantity of airbags or cupholders, but because they are drivers cars. You actually feel connected to the road, with excellent handling, great steering feel, and a set of brakes that are second to none.
IMO, you can't go wrong with either the 3 or 6, and in 20 months and close to 28K miles, My 6 has NEVER left me stranded or stuck.
I've got the "Steel Gray Metallic" color on my '04 6s wagon and the finish is very smooth. I think it's the same color as yours, they just changed the name for '05 and '06. Seems to me that the painted surfaces of a recent model car should never feel rough unless it was damaged, especially if it has a clearcoat finish.
Run a search on "detailing bar" or "clay bar" on the 'net to get more information. I've never tried them myself, but I've seen many cars both before and afterward, and the difference is amazing.
Since your car's paint surface seems to have a lot of overspray, I would get 2 clay bars. If you get only one, it may get too dirty before you're able to finish the whole car.
After clay barring, be sure to apply a good wax/sealer such as Zaino, Mothers, Meguiars, etc. on the paint surface.
Do NOT wax without clay barring first. Waxing alone will not effectively restore the smooth paint surface.
The only dangerous thing about clay barring is if you accidentally drop the clay bar on the ground. It will pick up dust, dirt, sand, debris that will ruin the clay bar.
Nevertheless, your time is worth something. Since the dealer messed up, they should be the ones to correct the problem. Let them pay an auto detailer to wash, clay, and wax the car.
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Get a plastic sandwich bag, put your hand in it, and gently feel the paint...you'll be amazed at how bumpy it is. that's all the stuff in the air that is imbedded in your paint and can cause problems later. after using a clay bar, do the same thing...HUGE difference.
one tip that i've heard before using a clay bar is to use dishwashing soap to remove the wax that's on your car. then clay bar. then rewax. takes a while, but if you're going to do it, may as well do it right. give yourself about 4 or 5 hours for the whole job and your car will reflect like a mirror!!!
When I turn right on a slope, the back of the car squeaks. The noise is from the left side of the car. However, when I turn left, there is no problem at all.
I sent it in the Mazda delear last week. I called today, they still do not fix it. I was told that the suspension is OK. They will try sth else tomorrow. The dealer said they never had the same problem before. Anyone here has the same experience?
Thanks.
Last summer I drifted over a newly painted white line on the main road outside my neighborhood while going 45mph, and the damage ranged from a thick layer of the stuff covering a large area behind each of my passenger side wheel wells, to small flecks spattered on that entire side of the car and the whole liftgate. The road crew responsible never put cones or signs out and I could not see them painting just a few hundred yards ahead of me around a bend. I was furious!!! Fortunately I had time to pull into a bay at a local car wash and spray most of the thick stuff off before it dried, but the small spatters and flecks were much more difficult to remove. I used a clay bar which did the trick, but it took me 3 hours to remove all traces of the paint. I called to complain, but it probably would have taken me 3 months to get the highway department to pay for a detailer to do the job!
Good luck.
I'm not sure, but I suspect the 4 and 6 cylinder engines use different clutches due to the additional torque and horsepower of the V6 (I know on older model Saab 900s the turbo models have a beefier clutch than the non-turbo engines for this very reason). Maybe someone else here knows if the TSB applies to clutches on both the 4 and 6 cylinder engines, or just the V6. A more detailed search here on Edmunds or on the Internet should give you some answers. Good luck!
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there's also a lot of info on how to do stuff yourself...but be warned, reading all this stuff may lead to your being a bit paranoid and thinking every little thing may make you think you have something wrong with your car.
I've had it in to 2 Mazda dealers on 4-5 different occasions and they have yet to identify and resolve the problem.
Thoughts??
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Scotchguarding the interior is a good way to ensure that your seats do not get stained easily. You can do it yourself for $12 rather than $600, all you gotta do is spray and then walk away.
I'm not sure what the dealer meant about Scotchguarding the exterior. I've never heard of that concept before!!
There are indeed two bolts on either side of the bulbs. Unscrew the bolts from the threads, and slowly pull out the taillight housing from the body, making sure to remove the bulb sockets from the housing first.
It's a VERY simple process, and take > 5 minutes to remove the old one and install the new one. Can I also suggest checking out a few Mazda parts websites for the new housing. Even with shipping, it's MUCH cheaper than the $86 the dealer will charge you. Due to forum guidelines, I can't recommend a specific site, but shop around.
Good luck.