harder to see in daylight than the s taillamps, even if you are directly behind the car. Evidently Mazda leaves the inside red brake lamp on the MZ3-i making the lamp dim. It was hard to tell if the turn signal lamp is amber under the red cover. Only the middle brake lamp is bright. So be careful, anon70, when braking, brake sooner if possible to warn drivers behind you.
I live in Houston and I was worried that this summer the A/C would not cool the car..I bought the car last April, and last summer the A/C labored to keep the car cool,,but no cold. This year, we've had a succession of 90+ days here and I've only had to keep the fan on it lowest setting for my 20 minute commute to work. The A/C seems to have improved markedly from last year. Has anyone experienced this, and does this kind of occurence happen frequently?
I own a 04 Mazda 3I. I experienced the same as observed by eklektik. The A/C function this year is much better than I felt last year. My car has clocked 14500 miles (it will be 1 year next week). The more I am driving the car is getting smoother and smoother.
I like that the clutch doesn’t need to be depressed all the way to the floor; it makes for smoother and quicker shifts.
I also like the “little” rumble when first starting the car.
I do wish there was an extra gear for the highway running at 3500 @75-80mph. But it is probably ok. Years ago I ran a civic 5000+ rpm for over 13hours (was going pretty fast) and it was fine.
The manual says there is no break-in period so I’m driving it normally. I’ve gone 5000rpm a few times already; 300 miles on it so far.
No, I didn't read it because I am prompted to install an IE service pack just to download the thing. I don't install IE service packs unless it's directly from Microsoft's site.
It's a very informative, lengthy discourse, in several chapters, on the design, production, safety, features, etc., of the Mazda3, told by the people who were in charge of those various aspects of the car.
Hmm, that's very odd, backy. Maybe you need to go to the MS site and make sure everything is up to date?
If it is, I would wonder about something else going on, like spyware or hijack type stuff. Running things like Spybot, AdAware and HijackThis (all goole-able -- hah!!) will fix you up. You'll want to run all three, they find different things and they are all free.
I opened the link with a W2K OS and also XP SP2 - no problems at all.
Thanks. Microsoft tells me when my PC needs something (Auto Update) and I do have AdAware. But this is Win98 (hey, it works!) so maybe that is part of the problem.
Mazda3 has a firm but controlled ride. You'll feel bumps but not harshly. If you like how Buicks ride, you may not like the Mazda3. I think the New Jetta is a little smoother than the Mazda3, but not much. They are a similar driving experience IMO. Both have a pretty good dallop of tire noise though.
My 2000 Protege was loud, and harsh on some kinds of pavement, until I replaced the 195/55-15 OEM Potenzas (and the loud Dunlops that replaced them) with a set of BFGoodrich touring tires. I lost a smidge on the handling front, but boy did my Protege ride quieter!
The Goodyear Eagle RS-A tires they're putting on Mazda3s's are blasphemy! Go read the owner reviews of these tires over on TireRack's website. Loud, hard, and very prone to hydroplaning! If all the reviews are correct, we'd better get rid of these tires after about 10,000 miles, or we'll be taking our lives in our hands every time we drive in the rain.
It's unfortunate those tires come on the car. Mazda is obviously emphasizing handling for the sake of noise, ride etc. The OEM Michelins on my Hyundai were louder than the Kumhos I replaced them with. But I lived with the Michelins for four years.
All these complaints about the Goodyears - the MZ3 sedan we bought for my wife came with Toyos (can't remember the exact model, I think it's the A05).
After receiving the car with air at 44-52 psi in the tires, I deflated them to only 40 psi, and some of the stiffness in the ride went away. 40 psi is still high, but less than the 44 psi upper limit on the tires, and I did this per the wife's instruction - she likes better handling vs. softer ride, obviously, or else we would have gotten something else.
Anyway, the Toyos seem great to me, very grippy, not particularly noisy. What do others think who got them as original equipment on the 3?
eklektik: I would suggest leaving the fan on the No. 2 setting as a minimum. The Mazda Protegé owners have to do this, check the owner's manual, it may require the same thing. On the lowest setting (No.1) the fan is blowing to little air and may cause ice particles in the condenser. If your feet feel too cold roll in a little heat with the temperature knob, move it towards the red band and adjust fror comfort.
EXACTLY! Car companies pay far less for tires than consumers do. The tires you pay $127 for they probably pay only $8 for each tire. It use to be $3 a tire. And that 40psi is way too high for a compact sedan. Look at the specifications sticker by the driver's seat on the door frame for the tire pressure. The pressure recommended by Mazda. That 40psi or 52psi is what they put in for shipping the cars and the dealer was suppose to do a pre-initial delivery check and lower them to the psi on the door sticker.
Kumhos rule for a smooth quiet ride. I'm still enjoying a new set after four years on those awful Bridgestone Portenzas that came on my Protegé. They are so quiet I can finally enjoy the radio and CDs without background roar. Some times I just ride along listening to the Kumhos' whisper on the pavement, barely audible. Best tire pressure is 34psi for balance between ride and handling.
anon70 said: hm..i have a mazda3i automatic and first 1000 miles i tried to get it to 6500 rpm as much as i could.
Oh oh, I think you should have at least kept it not higher than 3500rpm for the first 600 miles and no fast starts or hard braking until after 1000 miles. And do not hold a steady speed for long periods of time, vary your speeds up and down, i.e. run it up to 65 and then let it drop back to 50, and repeat.
Yes, they say no break-in, BUT smart buyers do use caution for at least the first 1500 miles. What you are trying to do is to *seat the rings* so it won't use oil. Remember, the engine is TIGHT and straining it right off can cause serious problems later on.
Yeah, but the horrible fact is, the RS-As don't handle worth a crap!
I think they handle great. They were even fine in the rain today.
I don’t have any other tires to compare to, but when the time comes to change them, if all the others are better, it’ll only make the car that much better.
I was pulling high g’s (relatively) with no squeal or sliding or under steer.
BTW Cost I just paid $180 for a tire for my mini-van. Big hunk of metal
The Nankang tires I received with a set of wheels I purchased are quieter than the RS-A's. The RS-A's were loud, but they were quiet when compared to the Toyos that were standard on a 3i rented when they changed my rack and pinion under warranty. I'v never experienced tires as loud as the Goodyears and then the Toyos. Has anyone noticed that the car's idle has become less refined after one year? It's not alarming, but at 17000 miles, I can feel the car idle at the stoplight when I couldn't earlier..
By the way, thanks for the input on using the second highest setting on the A/C..
" run it up to 65 and then let it drop back to 50, and repeat. "
you're varying the rpm's by doing that? isnt going to 6500 rpm then letting it drop down when it switches to the next gear the same thing?
btw- i have the toyo a05 tires. stops great in heavy rain. but tires spin in jack rabbit starts in that same heavy rain. then again, you shouldnt be doing jack rabbit starts in heavy rain.
After rotating the road noise was MUCH louder - but after 500 miles they seemed to quiet down - back to normal anyway. I don't ever recall having this with any other tires - but assume it was something to do with a change in tread wear pattern between the front and back.
" isnt going to 6500 rpm then letting it drop down when it switches to the next gear the same thing? "
No, it isn't! I'm talking about the first 1,000 miles. Mazda's owners' manuals for previous models say NOT to run the rpm above 3500 for the first 600 miles and no high rpms until after 1,000 miles. That should tell you the engine is tight and not to stress it until it loosens up. Even revving it to 4500 or 5500 isn't a good idea. I know new buyers are anxious to see what it can do, especially first time owners, but there will be plenty of days ahead to find that out.
Some dealers may tell you to just go ahead and drive at any speed/rpm you like. But keep in mind that modern cars have black boxes aboard which record what rpm the engine was running when it blew up, overheated and siezed, or other malfunction due to stressing it too early. They would love to sell you a new engine.
I know it gets a bit tougher to attend once we reach the summer, but it's a lot of fun and you will have a good time, even if you can only stop in for a portion of the chat. Last week we even broke out some automotive trivia questions.
The sedan is quieter with 16-inch wheels because the tires are 205/55/HR. The sidewalls are higher and softer than VR tires. They may also be touring tires instead of all-season.
The hatchback is noisier with the 17-inch wheels because of the almost low profile 205/50/VR tires and it doesn't have as much separation from its cargo area as the sedan does. The rear wheels/tire noise is more in-the-cabin with the occupants. On the sedan the rear parcel shelf and back seat act as sound blockers. Wind noise plays a part too.
If you buy the sedan with the Sport Package which includes the 205/50/VR 17s then it will be somewhat like the hatchback.
The tires are not from the same companies and the tread patterns are different. In almost all cases changing the tires to softer versions can reduce road noise considerably. In either the sedan or the hatchback the wind noise will be the same.
When I test drove an MZ3 sedan I thought it was the quietest compact car I have ever been in. It had the 16-inch wheels. None of the sounds in the previous Mazdas were heard in city and highway driving. And none of the choppieness over road patches.
With all respect, I'd have to say you haven't driven many compact cars lately. The Mazda3 sedan with 16" tires has considerable road noise compared to some other cars in its class, including the Cobalt, Corolla, and Elantra. Other than the tire noise, though, I thought the Mazda3 sedan was pretty quiet compared to most compacts.
Coming from a 2000 Protege to a 2005 Mazda3, I have to agree with Jim.
The Mazda3 is quiet as a mouse inside. The tires are the only thing making this car less of a coffin than my dad's Buick Riviera.
And it's hauntingly quiet at stoplights -- you cannot hear the engine at all!
(I would like to know why they put that boy-racer-sounding exhaust tip on my 3s, though. Why must we persist in this childish myth that a sporty car HAS to sound like it's got a hole in its muffler?) :mad:
Hi - audi8q - Do you have any information on the timing/arrival of the MazdaSpeed 3? How about news on the 2006 models? Thanks! PS - 2003 P5 owner here
The Toyo Proxes A05 tires (195-65HR15) that come standard with 3I are excellent. I have driven 3S (rented @ 2500 miles on odo) that was fitted with a Goodyear and had an unremarkable handling. Whereas my 3I with Toyo Proxes after 15000 miles shows much zippier handling. To note, I rotate my tires every 6000 miles.
I just bought a Mazda 3 GT (Sedan) not even a month ago its done only 950km and already the engine light has turned on. Anybody has the same problem as i ?or has someone ever heard of it happening before ?
This is a common Mazda3 problem - (not sure what MIL on stands for - malfunction illumination light maybe - I call it the Check engine light)
MIL ON - P0442/P0455/P0456 Applicable Models Model Starting S/N Ending S/N 2004 MAZDA3 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Some vehicles may exhibit a MIL ON condition with DTCs P0442, P0455, and/or P0456 stored in memory. See the following list for possible causes. Capture freeze frame data, then clear all DTCs. Run the WDS evaporativesystem test to confirm the leak. If vehicle fails, use the Mazda approved, EVAP Tester (Model #134-01049) to further diagnose. Activate Mode 8 to manually close the Change Over Valve (COV). Note that the purge solenoid valve is Normally Closed. Run the gas leak test and the smoke test to confirm leak location. On Mazda3, the following conditions have been found: o STUCK OPEN PURGE SOLENOID VALVE - Confirm by removing purge solenoid control valve hose at the intake manifold, then inspect to see if smoke exits from the hose. If smoke is seen, this indicates a valve that is stuck open. Note: If hose is not removed, smoke may not be seen anywhere, and it will appear the vehicle has no leak. o MISSING "BASKET" SEAL - A smoke test will reveal if a basket seal is missing from a quick disconnect fitting. *** Published in M-tips newsletter Jan/Feb 2004.
Usually emissions related, unless it’s flashing – then it’s a big deal.
On a previous car we've owned, my wife forgot to tighten the gas cap and the MIL light came on. The dealer replaced the O2 sensor, but in reality we could have driven it about four? more trips and it would have reset it self.
The worst part about the MIL fix was it dropped my MPG - I went a few months getting 16 MPG (before the fix I was getting 21+ most of the time) I am now back up to just over 19 MPG -
Comments
I think the S and SP23 have the black.
fowler3
yeah, i have the 3i.
thx for the warning about seeing the lights. will check out the left/right signals to see how visible the amber lights are under the red covering.
I quote Queen "I'm in love with my car"
I like that the clutch doesn’t need to be depressed all the way to the floor; it makes for smoother and quicker shifts.
I also like the “little” rumble when first starting the car.
I do wish there was an extra gear for the highway running at 3500 @75-80mph. But it is probably ok. Years ago I ran a civic 5000+ rpm for over 13hours (was going pretty fast) and it was fine.
The manual says there is no break-in period so I’m driving it normally. I’ve gone 5000rpm a few times already; 300 miles on it so far.
did i do a bad thing? should i go change the oil now? (2500miles now)
Meade
Your software's outdatedness is your loss!
Meade
If it is, I would wonder about something else going on, like spyware or hijack type stuff. Running things like Spybot, AdAware and HijackThis (all goole-able -- hah!!) will fix you up. You'll want to run all three, they find different things and they are all free.
I opened the link with a W2K OS and also XP SP2 - no problems at all.
How much stiff, like VW GOLF or more?
Anyway, let's get back to the subject ...
It's the tires!
My 2000 Protege was loud, and harsh on some kinds of pavement, until I replaced the 195/55-15 OEM Potenzas (and the loud Dunlops that replaced them) with a set of BFGoodrich touring tires. I lost a smidge on the handling front, but boy did my Protege ride quieter!
The Goodyear Eagle RS-A tires they're putting on Mazda3s's are blasphemy! Go read the owner reviews of these tires over on TireRack's website. Loud, hard, and very prone to hydroplaning! If all the reviews are correct, we'd better get rid of these tires after about 10,000 miles, or we'll be taking our lives in our hands every time we drive in the rain.
Meade
Meade
I don't consider that cheap - cheap would be $75 or less per tire.
After receiving the car with air at 44-52 psi in the tires, I deflated them to only 40 psi, and some of the stiffness in the ride went away. 40 psi is still high, but less than the 44 psi upper limit on the tires, and I did this per the wife's instruction - she likes better handling vs. softer ride, obviously, or else we would have gotten something else.
Anyway, the Toyos seem great to me, very grippy, not particularly noisy. What do others think who got them as original equipment on the 3?
fowler3
Kumhos rule for a smooth quiet ride. I'm still enjoying a new set after four years on those awful Bridgestone Portenzas that came on my Protegé. They are so quiet I can finally enjoy the radio and CDs without background roar. Some times I just ride along listening to the Kumhos' whisper on the pavement, barely audible. Best tire pressure is 34psi for balance between ride and handling.
fowler3
Oh oh, I think you should have at least kept it not higher than 3500rpm for the first 600 miles and no fast starts or hard braking until after 1000 miles. And do not hold a steady speed for long periods of time, vary your speeds up and down, i.e. run it up to 65 and then let it drop back to 50, and repeat.
Yes, they say no break-in, BUT smart buyers do use caution for at least the first 1500 miles. What you are trying to do is to *seat the rings* so it won't use oil. Remember, the engine is TIGHT and straining it right off can cause serious problems later on.
fowler3
I think they handle great. They were even fine in the rain today.
I don’t have any other tires to compare to, but when the time comes to change them, if all the others are better, it’ll only make the car that much better.
I was pulling high g’s (relatively) with no squeal or sliding or under steer.
BTW Cost I just paid $180 for a tire for my mini-van. Big hunk of metal
Has anyone noticed that the car's idle has become less refined after one year? It's not alarming, but at 17000 miles, I can feel the car idle at the stoplight when I couldn't earlier..
By the way, thanks for the input on using the second highest setting on the A/C..
you're varying the rpm's by doing that? isnt going to 6500 rpm then letting it drop down when it switches to the next gear the same thing?
btw- i have the toyo a05 tires. stops great in heavy rain. but tires spin in jack rabbit starts in that same heavy rain. then again, you shouldnt be doing jack rabbit starts in heavy rain.
After rotating the road noise was MUCH louder - but after 500 miles they seemed to quiet down - back to normal anyway. I don't ever recall having this with any other tires - but assume it was something to do with a change in tread wear pattern between the front and back.
No, it isn't! I'm talking about the first 1,000 miles. Mazda's owners' manuals for previous models say NOT to run the rpm above 3500 for the first 600 miles and no high rpms until after 1,000 miles. That should tell you the engine is tight and not to stress it until it loosens up. Even revving it to 4500 or 5500 isn't a good idea. I know new buyers are anxious to see what it can do, especially first time owners, but there will be plenty of days ahead to find that out.
Some dealers may tell you to just go ahead and drive at any speed/rpm you like. But keep in mind that modern cars have black boxes aboard which record what rpm the engine was running when it blew up, overheated and siezed, or other malfunction due to stressing it too early. They would love to sell you a new engine.
fowler3
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Would the sedan be quieter than the 5-door?
Would the sedan be quieter with 16 inch wheels?
-Thanks!
The sidewalls are higher and softer than VR tires. They may also be touring tires instead of all-season.
The hatchback is noisier with the 17-inch wheels because of the almost low profile
205/50/VR tires and it doesn't have as much separation from its cargo area as the sedan
does. The rear wheels/tire noise is more in-the-cabin with the occupants. On the sedan
the rear parcel shelf and back seat act as sound blockers. Wind noise plays a part too.
If you buy the sedan with the Sport Package which includes the 205/50/VR 17s then it will be somewhat like the hatchback.
The tires are not from the same companies and the tread patterns are different. In almost all cases changing the tires to softer versions can reduce road noise considerably. In either the sedan or the hatchback the wind noise will be the same.
When I test drove an MZ3 sedan I thought it was the quietest compact car I have ever been in. It had the 16-inch wheels. None of the sounds in the previous Mazdas were heard in city and highway driving. And none of the choppieness over road patches.
Cars are like everything else -- compromises.
fowler3
The Mazda3 is quiet as a mouse inside. The tires are the only thing making this car less of a coffin than my dad's Buick Riviera.
And it's hauntingly quiet at stoplights -- you cannot hear the engine at all!
(I would like to know why they put that boy-racer-sounding exhaust tip on my 3s, though. Why must we persist in this childish myth that a sporty car HAS to sound like it's got a hole in its muffler?) :mad:
Meade
How about news on the 2006 models?
Thanks!
PS - 2003 P5 owner here
BTW, Toyo Proxes comes std in RX8 also.
MIL ON - P0442/P0455/P0456
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 MAZDA3 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Some vehicles may exhibit a MIL ON condition with DTCs P0442, P0455, and/or P0456 stored in memory. See the following list for possible causes. Capture freeze frame data, then clear all DTCs. Run the WDS evaporativesystem test to confirm the leak. If vehicle fails, use the Mazda approved, EVAP Tester (Model #134-01049) to further diagnose. Activate Mode 8 to manually close the Change Over Valve (COV). Note that the purge solenoid valve is Normally Closed. Run the gas leak test and the smoke test to confirm leak location. On Mazda3, the following conditions have been found: o STUCK OPEN PURGE SOLENOID VALVE - Confirm by removing purge solenoid control valve hose at the intake manifold, then inspect to see if smoke exits from the hose. If smoke is seen, this indicates a valve that is stuck open. Note: If hose is not removed, smoke may not be seen anywhere, and it will appear the vehicle has no leak. o MISSING "BASKET" SEAL - A smoke test will reveal if a basket seal is missing from a quick disconnect fitting. *** Published in M-tips newsletter Jan/Feb 2004.
Check out all of the Mazda3 defects at this site.
http://web2.iadfw.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/tsbmenu.html
Usually emissions related, unless it’s flashing – then it’s a big deal.
On a previous car we've owned, my wife forgot to tighten the gas cap and the MIL light came on. The dealer replaced the O2 sensor, but in reality we could have driven it about four? more trips and it would have reset it self.
The worst part about the MIL fix was it dropped my MPG - I went a few months getting 16 MPG (before the fix I was getting 21+ most of the time) I am now back up to just over 19 MPG -
Yep, a flashing MIL (CEL) usually indicates an automatic transmission burp!
Meade
Meade