1999 F250SD CC, Diesel
I'm thinking about buying a 1999 F250SD Crew Cab wit Lariat package, 4x4, automatic and 100,000 miles on it.
The asking price is 19,950.
What do you think. I have only seen pictures of the truck and it seems to be in a perfect condition.
When i go there what should I look for?
Any specific tips on buying a diesel truck.
It's my first time.
Thanks a lot.
The asking price is 19,950.
What do you think. I have only seen pictures of the truck and it seems to be in a perfect condition.
When i go there what should I look for?
Any specific tips on buying a diesel truck.
It's my first time.
Thanks a lot.
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I'm supposed to go test it on Saurday.
Thanks.
I know I am leaving out a ton of stuff to look for. Just use common sense and really look it over. If something just doesn't look right about it, ask. The price is not too bad if the truck is near perfect and has been maintained religiously.
Thanks again.
On the way back from Memphise to Chicago I only calculated 13mpg. All highway driving, avarage 70mph. It seems low, doesn't it?
I did some maintenance work on it today and I already have questions.
I cleaned the K&N air filter, changed and drained the fuel filter and was going to change the oil but got stuck.
I went to buy Shell Rotella oil like you guys suggested but I didn't find it.
I found some Mobil and other brands oils but they did not list exactly what the owner's manual calls for: API Service category CG-4/SH. Does it have to list the exact thing?
I would really appreciate all the income guys.
THANKS A LOT.
I know diesels vary on mileage, my buddy with same year as you gets similar mileage with his Powerstroke loaded or unloaded. Since it's a new truck to you, check out 4x4 drive train, could be that front hubs are locked without 4x4 being engaged - that could lower your mileage a bit as a few other parts of drivetrain may be spinning when they don't need to be.
I'm with Walt on the mileage and 4x4. It's possible the hubs are engaged. There is a big difference between carrying a given mass and rotating it.
If you went from Memphis to Chicago, you passed right by me in Western Kentucky.
I will check the hubs and as far as the oil, I found shell Rotella at Walmart just like you suggested.
If there is anything you'd like to add, please feel free as I am new to diesel trucks and need help to take a good care of it.
Give the turbo time to cool down before you shut her off. The turbo can easily get to 1,000 degrees during an interstate run or while towing. I have several miles of two-lane roads between my house and the interstate, so I can slow down and let it cool down while I am driving. Then the 3/4 mile drive down my street at 30 mph helps even more, plus it takes at least a minute from the time I let the engine go to idle as I am coasting to the drive to the time I actually park it in the garage, then I let it idle while I am unbuckling the seat belt, setting the parking brake, etc..... If you shut her down with a hot turbo, the heat will cook the oil that is in the turbo bearings, that ain't good. I don't know, just WAG'ing by ear, but that turbo sounds as if it might be doing over 50k rpm's at full throttle. Turbo bearings are very sensitive.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a truck stop that sells A LOT of fuel everyday. Clean, fresh fuel is paramount to a diesel engine. Diesel fuel will absorb water and grow algae if left alone in the right conditions, such as in a c-store tank that doesn't sell much diesel. My personal recommendation, take it if you want to, use a fuel additive year round. My personal choice is Stanadyne Performance Formula in the winter, as it contains an anti-gelling additive, and Performance Formula Jr. for the rest of the year where cold temps. and gelling are not expected. My biggest reason for using both year 'round is the added lubricity. Diesel fuel, from what I've read, gets its lubricating properties from sulfur. The EPA and other tree huggers have successfully taken almost all of the sulfur out of diesel fuel. I've been told what the parts per million concentration of sulfur used to be compared to now, but I can't remember those numbers. I do believe less than 10% of the sulfur remains. You don't have to use the additives, just my $.02.
As a side note: I recently found out first hand what water in the fuel will do to the injectors. I was out on a job and getting low on fuel. Not wanting to take the time to drive 30 minutes to one of my usual fuel stops, I pulled into a c-store. Why, well because it was CONVENIENT. Boy what a mistake!!!!! Less than 25 miles after filling up, my "Water in Fuel" light came on. I drained the water seperator and went on my way. I drove approximately 150 more miles that day and drained the seperator three more times. I drained that tank that night, replaced the fuel filter and filled with known good fuel. The next day my truck started missing out like a gasser with a dead spark plug. Two bad injectors and $900 dollars later my truck is acting as if another injector is going bad. Water, dirt and air will kill an injector quicker than anything else. FRESH, CLEAN AND WATER FREE FUEL.
In general, keep up with the maintenance. Don't let anything go over just because you don't want to mess with it right now. Don't try to drive it like a sports car. It may be fast by diesel standards, but it ain't no Corvette. I see others drive them that way, but when mine hits 300k miles and is still going strong, theirs will have long been in the salvage yard.
If anyone else can think of something I missed, probably enough to fill the Library of Congress, please chime in. And by the way; Welcome to the club.
Will have to start doing it.
I like to drive fast but in this truck I'll have to get used to lower speeds. My wife says it's too loud, and I don't want to create whirl in the fuel tank.
There is a truck stop about 20 min. from my house so I guess that will be the place to get my diesel.
Thanks a lot again and I will stay in touch.
I've been told the cylinder temp. needs to stay above 275 degrees in order to completely burn the fuel charge. When a diesel is idling, the cylinder temp. tends to fall below that threshold. When this happens, the fuel does not completely burn and wet stacking sets in. Now, I have never personally inspected a cylinder that has been "wet stacked" so I can't say with certainty what it is. The same very experienced mechanic that explained the cylinder temp. threshold to me said wet stacking is caused by the carbon in the fuel clinging to the "relatively cold" piston, cylinder walls, valves and head surfaces. The magazine "Progressive Farmer" did an article some time back on the question: Let it idle or shut it off? They used data from large corps. such as UPS and FEDEX and found that the fuel usage in an idling truck cost more over the life of that vehicle than what starter replacements cost!
In a nutshell, when mine is cold, I'll let it idle up to 10-15 minutes as the factory PCM will kick the idle up automatically. When the engine is already fairly warm or hot, I'll shut it off unless I'm coming back in less than 2 or 3 minutes.
I will go check them out but wanted to hear from you guys first.
So far my first Ford Diesel truck is awesome. I've had it for two weeks and have put around 1000 miles on it.