Oil Change
I recently purchased a 2002 Camry LE 4cyl(20,000 miles). Is it alright to drive 5,000 miles between oil change? For me, that would mean 2, maybe 3, oil changes per year.
Also: Please feel free to discuss any other experiences you may have had (good or bad) with the 2002 Camry.
Thanks!
Also: Please feel free to discuss any other experiences you may have had (good or bad) with the 2002 Camry.
Thanks!
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Comments
You will get lots of different opinions on this board though! Including several that will tell you to switch to synthetic at 1000 miles and never look back.
The required interval by Toyota to maintain the warranty is 5000-7500 miles between changes, depending on usage. You would be going with the most frequent of those intervals, which should be fine.
You might want to make sure of getting 3 oil changes per year if you drive less than 10K in a year, though.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You can further on full synthetics (7500+) if your goal is to stretch change intervals.
camryman5, do a search for sludge and toyota, you should find some info.
Krzys
On the other hand, if you want to keep it until it dies of natural causes (like 10-15 years) then 3-5k oil changes are probably better but the evidence is not all that clear cut. There is little evidence that the 3k or even 5k change is necessary within the useable life of the car (about 10-15 years). Beyond that, it may be but very few cars are kept that long.
On the other other hand if it makes you feel better to do the 3k change then just do the 3k change. If you are doing it yourself its less than $10. Its about $20-25 if you have a a quick lube place to it. Just keep in mind that if are paying $20-25 a chance then the difference is about $500-800 over 150k miles. Thats enough to pay to have your transmission rebuilt....which is more likely to fail than your engine. Still your mental health is more important so if 3k makes you feel good do it.
automakers generally are on the other side... no magic in the factory oil fill, they want the little bit of nonsense that is big enough to be trouble caught in the oil filter, and the microparticles that might develop will help the break-in process. the automakers say, normal change schedule, DO NOT perform an early change. IT IS NOT recommended.
I wimped out and changed mine in the exploder at 1000 miles. so much for principle, my guts ran out.
I have not run ten cars with and ten cars without, or 50 and 50, or any valid survey. one guy's story is not a valid survey here by any stretch of statistical nightmares.
it's almost religion to some folks. practice what you preach, it's allowed here. expect folks on both sides to try and scratch out each others' eyes in the ensuing discussion... anything that pretends to be a discussion concerning OIL seems to bring all the moths to the flame
TB
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2) The vast majority of "car trouble" is not related in any way to oil change interval.
3) The transmsission is far more likely to fail than the engine even with regular care.
I think they are all true. However, I would not go more than 10k on regular oil.....every person has their limits!!! I have done the 10k interval with regular oil in a variety of domestic and foreign makes that I got used. They were all fine to at least 100k miles (at least 50k with me) and several to 150k+. Yes, they do get some sludge in the pan but it does not seem to kill the engine. I wonder how badly you have to treat your car to kill the engine due to oil failure?
I think part of that is because of the 3-5K oil change intervals typically found in America. (Of course that means for every one of us who changes at 3K, there is some guy changing at 7K-10K miles.
Most people never touch their transmission fluid. Talk about a fluid with a rough life, you have to lubricate and operate in the pressure environments normally reserved for gear oils, but yet still be useful as a hydrallic fluid.
For example, went to the parts counter of my local Mazda dealer the other day for a pan gasket, filter and O-ring for my 2000 Mazda MPV. The parts guy said I was the first one to ask him for these parts.
Doesn't anyone change transmission fluid and filter anymore?
I just finished these tasks on my 94 Geo Prizm. (I don't think the owner ever changed the gear oil on this car in 9 years.) And I installed ATF+3 in the gearbox of my 98 SVT Contour. Now before everyone flips out about ATF in a manual tranny, Fords factory fill is Mercon. However, there is no friction modifier so the syncros don't work well.
Ford sells a 4oz bottle of FM that is about $20 or something silly like that to add to the Mercon fluid.
ATF+3 is essential Mercon with FM added, and 3 quarts are under $10 at your local parts store or Wal*Mart
Seems to do quite nicely.
The MPV would also have new fluid and filter, but the Mazda guy had to order them. So next weekend for that project.
TB
Seeing as I will probably not have the patience to keep this car more than 100-150K, I am bloody-mindedly going to do exactly that - not change it ever. I wonder if it will make it?
I agree that automatic transmissions are a lot more likely to fail than engines, with or without proper maintenance.
I do believe in keeping a car until it dies in principle, but in reality I get bored with them after 5-7 years...to my shame!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I know that with the CD4E is a matter of time, but I want to stretch that as much as possible.
I also agree with nematode. Most of my trouble with cars have been plugs, wires, hoses popping off, CV joints, etc., etc. The only real problem I ever had that was oil related was when I drove a rented Dodge Caravan over a big pothole. I heard 'cronk', and the oil light lit up. My brother in law told me not to worry about it, that his car did that all the time, so I kept going. 2 miles later the van was chugging like a steam engine, and moving at a similar speed. We stopped, looked under the engine, and found a 5" cut in the oil pan - We had ran the engine dry for 2 miles. Called the rental company and they brought a new one: Since we had LDW, they never asked what had happened.
G.
Well, my driving must be considered much, much worse than "severe", because mine needed to be changed at 30K! And this is a mechanic whom I've trusted for years, not some shady quickie place or the dealer whose service department, even in the words of a salesman there, "sucks".
Those 100K spark plugs? Well, they needed a change out when I took the car in at 51K to have some work done on it (spark plugs, rear brake pads, and a leaky thermostat housing).
For awhile though, while I was racking up miles quickly, it was all stop-and-go, as I used to deliver pizzas, so that may partially explain my shorter maintenance intervals.
The coolant is supposed to be good for 5 years/100k miles, but I'm probably going to have it changed, along with the belts and hoses, this fall. That'll be 4 years, and maybe 85K miles. All that 100K mile stuff may sound sweet and tempting, but considering that the car only had a 3/36K warranty, what do they have to lose by printing longer service intervals? Most people don't even keep a car 100K miles, and that's probably what they're counting on!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Please help.
I don't mind changing oil, and would be glad to help for a box of Krispy Kremes, LOL. </smartaleck off>
Seriously, we need more information about what you really need/want.
TB
do you know if i have to take the skid plate off to locate the oil plug (pan). I'm near Walmart I'll send u boxes of Krispy for an oil change!
might be a case for one of those fram easy-drain valves, if it would fit underneath. you'd still drool four plus quarts all over the skid plate and have to clean it up, but you wouldn't be driven insane trying to get the goldang drain plug back IN afterwards.
hmmm, I wonder, just wonder, if it might be worth getting a 3 or 4 inch circular compound saw bit for the drill and make a hole in the skid plate where the drain plug goes once the skid plate is taken off the first time. just thinking out loud here.................
TB
FWIW, it takes me about two minutes to drop the five bolts on mine to get in to do the oil change, maybe three minutes to put it back on because I have to position the skid plate first.
It's really no big deal, certainly not worth the hassle of drilling a hole through it for future changes, IMO!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
It took me about 40 mins including the wait to drain the old oil. I used Mobil1 for my first Oil Change 1k miles and my next one will be 7500 miles.
What do you folks recommend?
Keep going till Nov then change or change now?
If the oil isn't being worked, are the miles more important than the time?
Does the amount of time the oil is in your engine, mean anything if it isn't being worked ?
I wouldn't thing twice of spending an extra $25 a year in protecting a $25K truck. But only driven say about 2K miles in 6 months, won't I just be flushing out perfectly good oil ?
If not, I'll change it without hesitation.
Appreciate any input.
On that Camry, the first oil change is recommended by Toyota at whatever normal interval you are going to use. The book says 5000 miles for "severe" and 7500 for regular use. I use the 5000-mile interval.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
With low mileage over time, or vehicles operated for very short durations, the biggest problem is moisture build up and subsequent water dilution. This, coupled with engines that never reach full operating temperature for very long, leads to premature sludge build up as well.
Modern engine oils, especially multiviscosity oils, actually stay stable longer under high temperature operation than they do when they start to pick up moisture. Modern multi-vis oils have improved so much in the last thirty years, that I would rather put 10,000 miles on the oil in one month, than 2000 miles on in three months.
Regards,
Dusty
and then you can lay in 5w-30 for future top-offs, and all will be happy.
At any rate, I've received lots of conflicting information from my dealership and from Toyota on the subject of oil change intervals. My salesperson recommended 3,500, at the same time she was handing me a flyer produced by the dealership that said, "Performing oil change services every 3,000 miles will eliminate a condition known as 'oil gelling' or 'oil sludge.' These conditions cause severe engine damage and are not covered under the manufacturer's warranty."
The information from Toyota that came with the car recommends 5,000 or 7,500 mile intervals, depending on how you use the car. This flyer also has a dire warning about "oil sludge build-up."
Then, I received a flyer in the mail sometime in February from the service department suggesting that I come in at 5,000 miles for my first service.
My point in posting all this is to show that Toyota obviously is very concerned about the possibility of oil gel with this particular engine, and also very contradictary in its advice to me on how to handle the situation. In all my 40-plus years of owning automobiles, I've never had a manufacturer give me any kind of warnings at all about this potential problem, or be so equivicating about their advice.
So, with all this conflicting advice, my own decision has been to change the oil every 3,000 miles. Maybe I'm wasting time and money, or maybe it's "beter safe than sorry." I really don't know. It's a confusing situation to me. But, if you do have this engine, I would suggest a cautious approach, at the very least.
Other than that, I'm enjoying the heck out of the car. Smooth, quiet, comfortable, a pleasure to own and drive.
Anyway, I would go further using a synthetic oil in case that I cannot bring the car in on time by 3500 miles oil change.
I also have 3.0 L V6 engine in my car. No problem so far (knock on wood...).
doesn't matter as much on most cars.
I noticed the V6 engine is extremely hot even after few hours it has been shut off.