Subaru XT Turbo Forester

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Comments

  • paddykpaddyk Member Posts: 23
    38,154 and need to look for a new set of tires.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    I've gotten 27 mpg on trips before and was averaging 24.2 mpg (mainly hwy commute) but my avg dropped to under 23 mpg when I went to a plus-one setup.

    -Frank
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Where the heck have you been? Business trip? :)

    -Dennis
  • raybearraybear Member Posts: 1,795
    First, it's spelled "Forester".

    The brakes should last closer to 36,000 miles and may be covered under warranty.
  • gagecalmangagecalman Member Posts: 11
    I was wondering if anyone has installed one of the plastic hood protectors on their FXT. I didn't know if they made a special one because of the scoop. I wonder if it would affect performance. Thanks
    Jim
  • paddykpaddyk Member Posts: 23
    Long vacations from Michigan to Maine.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I've the Subaru part installed on my 04 FXT. It works well and stops the edge of the hood from getting beat to death.

    Still looks good after two years.

    HTH

    Larry
  • stevev1stevev1 Member Posts: 14
    I was told I couldn't due to disrupting the airflow. Instead, had a 3M tape installed that covers the leading edge and back to 18 inches. Doesn't look too bad ( you do see it )and is supposed to provide protection for at least 3 years
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    There is a special hood deflector for all the turbo Subies. It is flat and narrower and has no "lip" on the edge. Look in the accessories section of Subaru.com and you'll find pics of 'em.

    -Brian
  • 10years10years Member Posts: 48
    Way back in 03 I installed one on my then new then X. Took me and my 10 thumbs about and 1 1/2 hours to install it with their hieroglyphic instructions. There is no direct contact with the surface of the hood and it still looks good 2 1/2 years hence. No rattles or shaking either. The roads I travel are heavily sanded in winter and my old previous vehical had the leading edge of the hood sand blasted clean so I knew the Forester's aluminum hood would be even worse.

    Only down side is the car wash place warns they are not responsible for hood protectors.

    Have Fun.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I also had the tape applied to mine as well, mostly due to the pounding my previous bumper took. It's been on 26 months and looks terrible. But - the paint underneath is fine. I'll make it through the winter and replace it for the summer.

    Larry
  • tucsonturbotucsonturbo Member Posts: 6
    This is my first posting. Unlike most of you lucky people who have purchased your XT new, I just bought a used 2004 Cayenne Red AT XT with 20,500 miles on the odometer. Having just moved to AZ a couple of years ago, I traded in my aged 1997 Subaru Impreza Outback for a vehicle that could keep up with the 80 mph traffic I encounter on I-17 (speed limit is 75) driving from Tucson to Phoenix. I got tired of the 18-wheelers whizzing past me.
    When I purchased the vehicle, I noticed the word "COBB" in small letters under the rear windshield wiper, but thought nothing of it. The CARFAX I purchased prior to my visit to the dealer said the XT was a corporate lease in Utah, so I assumed COBB was the corporate lessor. It was only later that I did a Google search and found out it is a Subaru tuner; the head office is also in Utah. [I'm sure most of you knew this right away, but not me.]
    Then, little inconsistencies I noticed in the XT started to make sense.
    1. The AT gearshift lever was definitely not stock. It was a chrome shaft with a leather-wrapped donut hole.
    2. At 20,500 miles, the engine, especially the hoses, looked brand new -- newer than the usual steam cleaning. The engine compartment really gleamed. Is this normal?
    3. The salesman said the tires were fairly new -- about 90% tread left. I discovered later that these were Barum Bravuris 225/55s (instead of the stock 215/60s) that were W-rated. W-rated means good to 159 mph! Higher, I think than the Z rating. Up to now, I've never owned tires higher than H-rated.
    4. From all your posts, I know that the car is a rocket, even with the AT, but it appears to accelerate from 80 to 90 with just a slight push of the pedal. Normal XT performance or a revised ECU software map from COBB?
    I know this sounds dumb, but I have learned many times over that good things rarely come without some sort of a downside. I will truly enjoy this COBB-enhanced vehicle, but what should I be watching out for -- e.g. higher mileage on the odometer because of the low profile tires, or a voided SOA manufacturer's warranty?
    Sorry for the long post. I have truly enjoyed reading the informed and varied posts in this forum and am honored to join such a learned group!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Tires are 25.7" in diameter instead of the stock 26.2", so they are off by 1.9%. Tire stores use 3% as their allowance for change, so you're within that.

    Check if the spare was also upgraded. If not, you might want to set the pressure of the spare to 26psi and don't drive very far on it if you ever get a flat.

    I think you'll be ok, it seems like the previous owner took meticulous care of it. Maybe it was a COBB demo car? I think you lucked out, given the immaculate condition of the engine bay.

    JACKPOT! :D

    -juice
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Cobb seems to have quite a rep for user friendliness. If I were you I'd call them with my VIN in hand and ask them what if anything, they can tell you about the car. Chances are if they tuned it, or otherwise modified it, that they'd keep a record.

    Can't hurt to ask.......

    HTH

    Larry
  • tucsonturbotucsonturbo Member Posts: 6
    Juice,
    I have benefited from your many posts since early on in this forum and appreciate your feedback.
    It's great that the Barums only skew the odometer by 2%. Based on other posts that have mentioned XT body lean in turns, I suspect that there might also have been suspension mods in connection with the 225/55 setup. My 2004 XT corners just like my previous Impreza -- i.e. much flatter than I initially expected, although it appears the 2006MY might have corrected this problem -- so I will plan to retain the low profile tires when I need to replace them.
    There was a Yoko Geolander when I checked the spare. It appears that you think the optimum pressure for the W-series Barums should be 26 psi. As the neophyte in these matters, I would have thought something in the 30s, but you're the boss.
    I'm still stunned by the turn of events. The car was purchased just a few days after it came into the dealership and they might not have had time to check it out thoroughly. It was the end of the month and they might have needed the cash. I brought up the fact that it was a corporate lease (i.e. the potential for abuse) and talked them into throwing in a Gold Plus 6 yr/60K extended warranty with $100 deductible for $300. I told them the normal $850 was mostly profit for them, so they weren't going to be out of pocket very much.
    After learning about COBB, I tested the idle with the A/C off, and there was virtually no vibration, perhaps the slightest boxer "shake," almost undetectable. So you may be right about the demo angle. Hopefully, I won't be paying for it too much later.
    Best regards.">
  • jindijindi Member Posts: 11
    I have about 2K miles on my '05 and I need to get the oil changed. I don't have my manual handy, but is the first service at 3750 with a simple oil change at 2K?

    Thanks,
  • tucsonturbotucsonturbo Member Posts: 6
    Good Idea! I will give it a try and report back if I learn anything interesting....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Let me clarify - I meant 26 psi in the spare only. I would run 29 or higher on the others.

    Why?

    The spare is a bit bigger, but the sidewalls will have a little more deflection at a lower pressure (still within the 26-29 that Subaru recommends).

    The 55 tires have a stiff sidewall, combined with higher pressure that should minimize any difference in the tire size.

    -juice
  • tucsonturbotucsonturbo Member Posts: 6
    Larry,
    I called both Cobb Tuning and their UT dealer affiliate, Modern Garage, and they both disavowed any knowledge of my vehicle -- so I guess I have a renegade vehicle on my hands. Will do my best to enjoy it, though! But I appreciate the idea.

    To Juice: Got your message and I understand the logic. Will follow your advice. Thanks.
  • jindijindi Member Posts: 11
    Can anyone who has a hitch on their FXT tell me the details of how the hitch is installed? The following link is to an eBay sale of an OEM Subaru hitch -->

    FXT OEM Hitch

    The hitch pictured in the link above; can that be installed on my stock 2005 FXT or do I need additional equipment?

    Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Looks familiar, though that is Subaru's standard photo which they have used since 1998.

    Keep in mind that ball is sold seperately. Ironic that the photo highlights the ball, no?

    Mine came with the wiring harness, so it was bolt-on and plug-n-play. But mine is a '98.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    jindi,

    You can get that trailer hitch for free from Subaru using Subaru bucks.

    Hmmm... now that's an idea, I can buy 8 Subaru OEM trailer hitches using Subaru bucks, sell them on E-bay, and get some real cash flowing ;) Probably what that smart fella is doing on E-bay with 2 new hitches.

    John
  • jindijindi Member Posts: 11
    What are Subaru Bucks and where do I get my hands on them?

    You guys still didn't answer my question: Do I need anything else besides the hitch assembly to install it on the FXT? If the answer is no, then I assume there is something under the rear bumper on the frame which I attach the hitch to, right?

    Thanks again...

    J
  • corkfishcorkfish Member Posts: 537
    Chase has a Subaru credit card that pays 3% on EVERYTHING you purchase. Once you reach $100 in rewards, you are sent out what amounts to a $100 voucher that you can spend at any Subaru dealership just like cash. It can really add up. I use it instead of buying an extended warranty. I figure it's like self insuring a little.
  • stevev1stevev1 Member Posts: 14
    Snow started falling this morning, just in time for my 8:00 a.m. appointment to install new Nokian Hakkepellita 2 snow tires. I had Michelin Alpins on my 2000 Forester, and was never really impressed with them. These new tirese look like some real bad boys, and they positively moan on the still dry roads coming back to the office. Has anyone tried Nokian Tires before ?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I couldn't answer your question completely because I'm not sure.

    On my 1998, the hitch assembly was complete. I only needed tools and some elbow grease, though a helper or at least a hydraulic jack and some cable ties are useful.

    Most likely it's the same for the new ones. They supplied all the stuff, even the grommet to seal where the harness wiring leaves the spare tire well.

    -juice
  • tucsonturbotucsonturbo Member Posts: 6
    As the proud "new" owner of a used 2004 XT AT with 21K miles, what is the current consensus of AT owners regarding shifting into "N" from "D" when stopped at a traffic signal. I realize that there have been pros and cons since time immemorial on this subject -- i.e. it puts more wear and tear on the AT to shift back and forth vs. it strains the AT to have the engine stressing on it at a full stop. I went through about the first 5000 posts (and learned a lot about the readership as well as the XT!) but haven't found any specific comments, although there was a fairly long thread about coasting with a MT. [The discussion I am looking for is probably at Post 5001!]
    Thanks for your thoughts!
    P.S. Of course, I would also welcome comments from MT owners that have an opinion.
  • deadeye5deadeye5 Member Posts: 93
    tucsontubo....Like you I also go to N at a l-o-n-g light.
    just does not make sense to me to keep foot on the brake when the car is trying to creep fwd. I have 27K on my XT
    and have done that since day one. Bought it new. Love it so far....

    Deadeye
  • tucsonturbotucsonturbo Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, deadeye5 :)
    The engine likes to idle a touch below 1000 RPM when in neutral, and is at 750 in "D" in my AT, so it's just a couple of hundred RPMs -- piddling for an AT designed to upshift at 6,500 when called for. However, the engine just seems a lot happier to be in neutral.
    The key is to wait that extra half second when going from N to D for the AT to engage before hitting it. I guess that's where the wear comes in! [Screwed up there a few times before I learned the habit! :cry: ]
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    I'm pretty sure that 99% of AT drivers don't shift into neutral when stopped and since cases of auto trannys failing are few a far between, I think it's safe to assume that they're not harming their transmissions.

    -Frank
  • girlwhogolfsgirlwhogolfs Member Posts: 18
    It is starting to get "cold" here in VA. High 20's to low 30's in the valley. Well when I first start my car and take off down the road, as the car shifts, (AT model) it lurches like I am stepping on the brake as it shifts! From first to second is VERY bad. It does this for about a mile. WHATS' THE DEAL WITH THAT!!!! :mad: Does my car hate cold weather as much as me? I have only put premium gas in it, only have 4900 miles and owned 8 months. We had a blast through summer, no hesitation, nothing but fast. Also, is there any type of screen accessory for the "snout" to keep stuff out? I had a bunch of leaves and pine needles on top of my intake I had to clean off. It won't fit in my garage :cry: . Heated seats, nice on the buns! Thanks for your help!
  • aaykayaaykay Member Posts: 539
    When the weather is cold outside, the engine oil, trans fluid, differential fluid etc., would also thicken up. You should NEVER "take off" in a car which has not be bought to operating temperatures...happens quicker in the summer and takes longer in the winter. Drive it gently for the 1st couple of miles and your car (and any future owners) will thank you for it.
  • corkfishcorkfish Member Posts: 537
    Any chance for water in the gas? As the seasons change there's a lot more condensation. Maybe some dry gas would help.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Lurching when shifting doens't have anything to do with the gas, I agree with Aaykay, the transmission fluid probably just needs to warm up. Especially since it goes away after a short distance. However, if the lurching seems excessive, a trip to the dealer just to get it checked out would be in order.

    -Frank
  • girlwhogolfsgirlwhogolfs Member Posts: 18
    I came out tonight after work and it was 28 degrees ( I work second shift). I started the car up and let it sit for a minute or so. No bucking or anything as I left the parking lot. :D Thanks for every ones input! Stay warm!
  • aaykayaaykay Member Posts: 539
    Way to go ! :D Letting the engine run for around a minute is a good way to warm the engine oil, when the temp drops below freezing. However, it is a good idea to follow it up with gentle driving for a couple of miles. The reason being that even though the engine oil warms up when you idle for a minute, the fluids in the other subsystems of the car, like the trans fluid, diff fluid etc does not reach operating temps, until you start driving it.....gentle driving for the 1st couple of miles, would keep your car running without any problems for a loooong time. Driving aggressively before reaching operating temps is BAD for the car, since without the lubrication afforded by the warm oil, lots of direct metal-on-metal rubbing takes place....as we know, cold+thick oil does not flow...without flowing, no lubrication ! Take this from a guy who has NEVER had problems from his Japanese cars until well into the 300K+ mile range.
  • gagecalmangagecalman Member Posts: 11
    I just returned from a 1500 mile road trip from Baltimore to Pigeon Forge TN in my 05 FXT. I noticed that the automatic transmission doesn't start out in the lowest gear unless you actually shift into 1st gear. If it's in 2nd or Drive it seems to start in 2nd but if you pull it into 1st it shifts down. The dealer told me thats normal but couldn't tell me why. Any help would be appreciated.
  • gagecalmangagecalman Member Posts: 11
    I just returned from a 1500 mile road trip from Baltimore to Pigeon Forge TN in my 05 FXT (autotrans). What a great vehicle to have on such a beautiful drive. The power and handling are perfect for the Smoky Mountains. I averaged 22.8 mpg for the entire trip with 21.7 being my worst tank (the mountains eat the gas)and 26.4 being my best. Very happy overall!
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    It's just normal auto tranny operation. I believe it's in the owner's manual.

    -Dennis
  • xtsfoxtsfo Member Posts: 20
    I'm curious about the popularity (or lack thereof) of the Subaru maintenance contract (gold or whatever variant) for a new '06 XT. My normal inclination would be to NOT purchase such a contract. However, I tend to keep new cars for a long period of time. For example, I'm just about to get rid of the '91 Loyale that I've owned since new. :) Also, the XT *is* turbocharged and that is the primary reason why I'm considering the contract. Any comments? Any other contract-holders here?
  • raybearraybear Member Posts: 1,795
    I have to admit, the only serious problem any of my customers had was with an XT...still your call. You should be able to get a Gold warranty for 40% off list if it's a high-end contract such as the 7/100.
  • dstew1dstew1 Member Posts: 275
    Out of curiousity (and personal interest), what serious problems have you seen with the XT?
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    When I purchased my FXT, my plan was to wait until near the end of the factory warranty period before deciding if I should buy an extended warranty. At that time, a major determining factor in the decision would be how much maintenance/repair work had been required up to that point. Well the odo on my FXT just passed 36k but since I’ve had ZERO repair issues during that time, I decided to pass on the extended warranty.

    -Frank
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    A warranty is one thing, a maintenance contract is another. My dealer sells both.

    The former includes a Subaru Gold warranty like my wife has. It's from Subaru.

    The latter is basically pre-paid maintenance. Just make sure they can reimburse you if you move to another state! I think these are sold by the dealer, not Subaru.

    -juice
  • xtsfoxtsfo Member Posts: 20
    That certainly seems reasonable from one perspective. However, as the financial (stocks) people like to say "past performance is not in indicator of future performance," etc. One thing I have had to do to my '91 Loyale (now with 53K original miles on the clock) was a head gasket replacement. That cost $3K because the engine had to be pulled to do the replacement. Given that the longer term/gold SOA extended warranties supposedly cost around $1500 or less, they don't seem so bad in light of the cost of my (seemingly simple, but actually not) head gasket replacement. In the context of a Forester XT, the presence of the turbocharger and the potential for turbo-related maintenance costs makes the extended warranty seem less and less "crazy."
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes, just keep in mind turbo warranties also cost a tad more up front.

    Put it this way - if you can take advantage of the other perks, like auto club membership, then it can be a good deal.

    It might also help with resale if you sell a car with 90k miles that still has 10k worth of warranty left in it. As a buyer of a used car, wouldn't that appeal to you? Knowing you could mitigate the risk? You'll make some of it up.

    Our Mazda 626 was good for about 5 years, then it started to fall apart. We spend $2500 and then sold it. A 7/100 warranty would have tripled our investment and we probably would have sold it for more, or even kept it longer.

    Then again, Murphy's Law, you get one and the Subie is perfect for 200k miles.

    -juice
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Discussing the pros and cons of extended warranties is really beating a dead horse but... it really boils down to how risk adverse an individual is. Clearly though, if having to replace the head gasket on Subarus was a common occurrence, the extended warranty would cost a lot more. Since that's not the case, one can assume that major repairs are relatively rare (like any other manufacturer, Subaru prices their extended warranties so that they make a profit on them).

    -Frank
  • beanboybeanboy Member Posts: 442
    Modify the motor so you would be denied warranty anyway! :D
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Remember, though, Patti said Subaru was losing money on those, selling them at a loss to establish good will and earn repeat customers.

    Of course I can't ask her again, because she's VP of warranty sales, so she might be a little bit biased. :D

    She used to be with dealer services, so she had access to data like that.

    -juice
  • xtsfoxtsfo Member Posts: 20
    I've seen various people talk about the "Subaru Bucks" associated with the Subaru-branded MasterCard from JPMorganChase. My question to anyone with direct experience with the program is: What, if any, are the drawbacks to this program? Most importantly, do the "bucks" expire? Are they treated in same-as-cash fashion at a dealership? Restrictions on their use, etc.?

    My reason for asking is that, if there is ANY non-obvious weaselling built-in to the "Subaru Bucks" program, this particular MasterCard is very unattractive. (Short grace period, two-cycle (worst of the 6 FTILA-defined methods) biling computation, High percentage fee for international currency transactions, etc.)
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