I own a 2000 E430 with the COMAND system & phone which has been problematic from day 7 of ownership. My local MB dealer has responded by replacing parts and modules with no real success. Unfortunately, with the previous E-class, the electrical parts are rebuilt so I am not real comfortable with reliability over time. . . I have talked many owners of MB's who have had a variety of "electrical" problems: C, M, E, S-class cars. My problems are also intermittent which are impossible to really fix. I think the idea is to replace parts with the hope that the problem will be resolved. . .
I have only 23,000 miles on this car and I am not interested in getting another MB at this time. I think MB needs to look hard at the supplier of the electrical components of the cars since this seems to be a problem across the entire line.
I too have electrical problems with my 2nd 2003 E-class. My current E500 radio will occassionally cut off and come back on. It starts with static which builds up until the sound goes off completely for a few seconds and then comes back on. Has anyone else experienced this same problem? The dealer has attempted to fix it (replaced communication platform and checked fiber optics). Problems still exists. Also, has anyone noticed (E500 or E320 w/Sport Pkg) that after driving and parked, it is not level??? Sometimes it is, sometimes it is not. I have measured over 1/2 inch lower one side than other. Dealer has no clue. Anyone been through this???
hi, I own a 92 300CE. The front driver side window rolled down and now won't move at all. I have had this problem in the past before and was able to get it up again. What seems to be the problem? Could it be the battery being low? The first time it happened, it was when I left the car parked for over 2 weeks without driving it. Thanks. (oh, only the front driver side and sunroof have the problem)
alman08, I had a somewhat similar problem with a 1992 300E. Except that both the window and sunroof acted as though they were possessed by some evil spirit. Opening and closing at will, then not operating at all. The only place where the electrical systems of these two components come together is the "Convienence" modual. It is the thing that allows you to close the sunroof and windows by holding the key in the door lock, in the locked position, for several seconds after exiting the car. Makes it so you don't have to get back in and start the car to close them if you forgot. Anyway, when this modual fails, weird electrical things happen to the windows and sunroof. I suppose it could also be a battery problem, but I would expect you would also have cold start problems. Also, these cars have such a high load on the battery they only last for a couple of years and usually fail completely when they go. Still, it never hurts to have your battery checked out. Especially in summer.
thanks for you reply. took it in to autozone today and ran a test on the battery. result was "good battery, low charge". the guy there was confused and ran the test again. same thing. so i asked him to charge it up. after charging, ran the test and said it's a good battery. that 15mins later, he ran the test again and it said "good battery, low charge". weird. anyway, i took it back and was hoping it could do the "magic" for the window and it didn't. most likely it just needs a new battery. ok ok, i was being cheap...hhehee... i'm planning to sell the car and try not to buy new things on it, however, with the window in the current position, i guess i will have no choice. let's hope it will work tomorrow when i get a new battery for it. by the way, you mentioned you had similar problem on yours, how did you get it fixed? thanks.
I had the "convienence modual" replaced. I forget now how much it was. .... a couple hundred probably. But it took my mechanic a while to find the connection between the windows and sunroof wiring systems. According to him, this modual is the only place (besides the battery) that these two systems come together. It solved all the probelms with the window and sunroof opening and closing by themselves or alternatively NOT opening or closing at all.
The problem you are having is identical to the one I am having. It happens both with the radio and the cd changer. My dealer applied a fix from CD rom that was supposed to correct this but it has happened at least once since the fix was applied. When I took the car back last week, they couldn't recreate it so they said, you're SOL, more or less.
As for the car not being level, I too have an E500 w/sport pkg, however, I have not noticed this. I know that the car is supposed to raise and lower itself 1 inch based on driving conditions and the suspension setting. Yesterday when I stopped at a light I could feel the car raising itself and it scared the bejeezies out of me. I never noticed that before.
One last thing, MB should be singing a different tune very soon as far as getting these things fixed. There are MB executives in Wash., DC right now meeting w/automotive experts and such to discuss the fact that their reputation for quality has taken a serious blow. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks for your note. I had the car in again for a "fix". They did another software update and replaced something to do with the "hands free" unit located in the trunk per instructions from the factory tech. No, I do not have the phone. I'll let you know if this works. By the way, there is a modification to make the brake assist pump quieter. That will be done next time. My car is out of level parked in the garage after driving and not running. I measure from the center of the wheel wells to the ground. It varies alot. Don't have a clue why.
well, took that same battery out to autozone again and the guy tested it, and this time it said "bad battery". got a new one, and guess what? that window worked for 3 seconds after i installed the new battery and died again. i guess you're right, sddlw, it could have been the module that you mentioned. regardless, i think the battery was old and had to be replaced anyway. I have read somewhere in here that someone else's battery went out and the car died, and after installing a new battery, he had to have the radio and windows reset. you think my windows just needed to be reset?? does anyone else know about the problem? thanks.
just read here somewhere that a bad battery can burn the alternator! I hope I didn't do that on my car, because that new window did work a tad and stopped! With a burnt alternator, the car could drain out the battery fast, right? yikes
Obviously you owners haven't spent the mandantory 2 weeks [80 hours] reading and studying [every page of] the $300 factory service manuals for your cars.
I think "possessed" by evil spirits was what I was telling my mechanic. I'm not sure why you say the convienence modual does not control the drivers window. That was, in fact, the window I had problems with and replacing it did fix the problem. ........ I'd go out an test the windows and report back, but we sold that E300 years ago. @!$%** thing was costing me $2000-%2500 a year to keep it running and it only had 75,000 miles on it when we got rid of it.
HELP! I'm looking for anyone out there that has had a similar problem with their 2000 E320. We are at our wits end! We have had 3 racks, one steering fluid pump and several boots and bushings replaced and still have the same rubbing noise when turning R or L. The dealer tells us that this is a "cronic" problem with all 2000 E class cars and that Mercedes is working on it. It is back in the shop today with orders not to return it until they can guarantee that it is fixed. If this is such a "big" problem then where are the rest of the complaints? Where are you! I think this is a hoax to keep us from pursuing "Lemon Law" action.
I usually follow the full size SUV boards and haven't read these posts before. Wow. This is nuts. You really have to pay some heavy dues to put up with one of these. Sure, maybe most of this stuff is fixed under warranty. But what about the opportunity costs involved in taking the car in, dropping it off, etc. etc. At least with a Bimmer you get a serving of performance with your ration of German headaches.
Maybe the E Series-Set should consider buying what the people who work for them drive and lead happier, simpler lives? I mean it won't impress a 21 year old valet with a green card, but something with an American made, cast iron V8 that will run like a thief to 100K before it needs new coolant, plugs, etc. isn't to be sneered at.
I would like to know why you had to have your rack replaced in the first place. We have had our rack replaced 3 times and we are in for the 4th. Dealer states that MB is aware of the problem and has processed a new TSB on the problem and has sent out new tools for the fix. However, our dealer failed to receive the new tools so they have our car for the next millenium until it is fixed. Would like to knoiw your origional problem.
Re your chronic steering rack/system problem, this goes back to 1996. I have a '96 E and after numerous complaints of loud noises and stiff steering, MB dealer finally replaced rack, bushings, pwr steering pump, etc., etc. This is similar to the chronic rear and front light bulb assemblies that continued on from '96 through '98-'99 model years. Unless you make the dealer aware that YOU are aware of the TSDBs, they will continue to band-aid the problems than properly fix the problems once and for all.
The kinds of electrical problems you guys are describing are not unique to the E class. My brother has a new CL600 that has had a lot of the same electrical gremlins. The worst one was when he got back from a 10 day trip and found the battery dead. The dealer had no idea as to what caused that. The CL600 is an awesome car--I recently drove it--but the electrical system is awesome in a negative sense.
Well, after the last attempted repairs to fix the radio, I was confident it was "fixed". Almost 2 weeks went by without a repeat performance. However, it just happened again!!!! Crackling noise which starts and builds and sound pops off for a few seconds. Back to the drawing boards... Also, has anyone else experienced an annoying squeaking noise from the brake pedal?? Sounds like a wet tennis shoe when the brake pedal is pressed. Mine has come and gone a couple of times. Dealer seems perplexed on this one too. Help!
the brakes on mine doesn't make the noise you mentioned. However, as MortorTrend puts it, it is difficult to modulate the brakes to stop in linear/smooth fashion.
I'm not sure that there is a TSB on this problem. The dealer has told us there is but I would sure like to see it. Alldata does not list any TSB for the 2000 E Class regarding the steering. Electrical problems yes, but not the steering. Plus we are going on the 4th rack, pump,bushing, etc. package in 3 years. I have other friends with 2000 E CLass cars and they have had no such problems. No one in this discussion has talked about this problem either, only the cronic electrical problems. I would think if this was such a "cronic" PROBLEM YOU ALL WOULD BE CHATTING ABOUT IT1
My previous car was a '83 MB 300SD with 300,000 miles on it. I replaced in in 1999 for a '98 E-320. I have already spent more money on repairs that the entire 18 years that I owned 330SD. Newer is NOT better. Now my engine is dying while I idle on a warm day. Nothing more humiliating than to have a conked-out E-320 in the middle of a crosswalk. Folks must really had a treat to watch this old fart pushing a silver MB in his Allen-Edmunds and a tie....sheesh.After replacing the rear window motor, water pump, electrical system, and air conditioning condenser, I think I better try a Lexus - after I spend another $700.00+ or so to fix my current problem. "ain't what it used to be" - that's for sure.
I have a 1995 E 320 with the reputedly "bulletproof" M104 engine and about 85,000 miles on the clock. Last weekend it very suddenly started sounding like a diesel. I took it to my local Benz guy and everyone agrees I have a hydraulic lifter that is not pumping up. A very rare problem for this engine, from what I hear.
The problem is trying to figure out *which* lifter has the problem. I can replace *all* of them, but remember this is a 24-valve engine, hence 24 lifters at around $50 each. And my technician reminds me that one of the camshafts has the variable timing mechanism making it a much more expensive proposition to remove and replace. If we were sure that the bad lifter was under the other camshaft, even it we could just isolate it to that side, it will be a much easier job.
He took off the valve cover and checked the clearance under each cam, and pressed down on each lifter to see if one sank faster than the others. All 24 of them behave exactly the same.
Does anyone out there have any interesting tricks for identifying which lifter is ticking, at least narrowing it down to either the intake or the exhaust bank?
Make sure that a correct fresh oil filter is being used and all its associated o-rings are in place. Try out an engine oil flush and run the engine on Mobil1 0w-30 oil for a few hundred miles. If that doesn't cure it, use a mechanics stethoscope on a cold engine start to localize the noise to at least the cylinder whoe lifter(s) may be noisy. Good Luck.
I too am having the same electronic problems that have been mentioned (Gateway, etc.) Friday, my left stoplight malfunctioned and the entire assembly (LED) had to be replaced. My biggest complaint has been the rattles and noises, not just the SBC brake pump but sunroof, dashboard and seat noises. I have had my seat frame replaced twice. I have owned ten MBZ cars and have always been satisfied. This one was one of the first in So. CA. (Sept. 2002). I have 7,000 mi. and have contacted MBZ. in an attempt to get out of my lease or replace the car. If you were a early buyer of this model, you were told that the GPS system would be available in Jan. 2003 but has you all know it is not and cannot be added to cars that were not shipped from the factory with GPS as original equipment. What a tragedy for Mercedes to produce their best selling car with one with so many design and quality problems! Next time you really want to get upset, turn the AC on and on a hot day stand outside the car...it sounds like a helicopter under the hood. They went to a single fan this year vs. the two stage from previous models.
Just bought a 2003 E500. After activating the Tele-aid, I started to get calls from MB response center that the alarm had activated, one of these calls came when then the car was parked in my garage. When I went out to the garage, sure enough the lights were flashing, but no audio from the horn.
After 10 calls within the first 2 days of owning the car, I returned it to the dealer for service. The dealer was able to locate the problem, it's a module that the alarm system is connected to. The service advisor said the module is back ordered, and didn't know when it would arrive. There must be a big demand for these modules. 7 days later I'm still waiting.
I'm longing for my 2001 C320 that I traded in. Never had any problems with it. It's sad to see that MB continues to have quality control problems with its vehicles.....
Aroundthebenz, re: your lifter problem. Because cams and lifter wear in together, don't you have to change the camshaft when you change lifters? (Or is that just on solid lifters?).
In any case, rather than going for $1200 worth of new lifters, just get them reconditioned. There may be even people out there that stock rebuilt-exchange lifters for sale. The benefit here is you get a fixed price and instant shipment. While you track that down (maybe even calling the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association in the Chicago area for some names), with your savings maybe you should check into some reground cams?
I have a problem with 99' E-320. It gets very dirty with brake pad dust. Thinking of installing "KLeen Wheels" brake dust shield. Any advises is appreciated.
brake dust shields, metal or plastic shields that hold dust in away from the wheels? If so, you're "danged if ya do, danged if ya don't". These shields can decrease ventilation of the brake pads and cause heat build up which, among other things, interfere with the operation of the brakes. What do others know or think about them?
They worked well on my Riviera until the first heavy braking effort from high speed. Warped a rotor, and I can guarantee the lug nuts were torqued to spec.
Thanks for the advice, folks. My mechanic did change the oil to 10W30 (he doesn't believe in synthetics...who am I to argue?), and within a dozen miles, the lifter noise was gone. (I also heard from another long-time Benz tech that in his experience synthetic oil tends to cause noisy lifters because they bleed down faster.)
*whew!*
I have no idea what grade of oil was last put in the car, but we're back on the prescribed diet and all is well. (Except that my mechanic said that my wiring harness is disintegrating and will need to be replaced soon.)
anyone have a problem with the wiper dragging across the windshield when it gets the least bit dry? have had the arm replaced, windshield cleaned of grime and grit and it still drags; of course, on the driver'side so my visibility stinks. MB says the single swipe doesn't allow water onto the cleaned area as two blades would, so wiper is always going to be in contact with a dry area and drag slightly. hmmm.. So, in other words, tough it out or any suggestions?
oh, the Tele Aid problem-- there was a moderate recall on speaker volume which i had replaced and since then it works well.
Has anyone had a problem driving through puddles in a rainstorm and having the car pull hard. It seems as though the low profile tires make driving in the rain a little hairy. Has anyone changed tires yet. Are their any great rain tires for this car? Thanks
Recently had first B service at 21.7K miles. There were a bunch of little problems that detracted from enjoying the car perfectly. 1. The readio volume control on the console would sometimes not work...the control on the steering wheel always worked. They replaced the radion. It appears to work okay now.
2. A rear window would not always work with express up. They said that it could not be reproduced and did nothing.
3. I complained about a drive train resonance that could be felt on smooth roads at around 65 MPH within the first 4 miles from cold start. They replaced a broken mount on a crossmember support. This fixed the problem and has reduced the background noise when driving significantly.
4. Cruise control would down shift when going down a slope to hold the speed, but would not up shift when coming to a level. They made some adjustments but did not fix the problem.
Other item: Break pads remaining on front 70% on the rear 80%. Seems that we may get close to 40K miles on the front pads.
Regarding #2 in your problem. Try reset windows with your key. I had a same problem with my 2002 E320 and my dealer showed me how to fix. Aim your key to your driver side handle. When you press unlock, all the windows should scroll down and press lock to scroll up all the windows. After you did this, see if you will have the same problem. In my case, that fixed the problem and dealer told me that this problem occurs when your on board computer goes 'out of sync'. Hope this help!
I had the EXACT problem you had. They replaced the steering and the noise went away...BUT the steering now feels noticeably lighter than it was before the replaced the rack and it seems like there is alot of play in it. I took it back and the said it was normal...I am at a loss since I know the steering is not supposed to be this light (tested other E's).
2003 E320 Sport, 8000 miles - My issue is chronic out of alignment and shimmy with car pulling to the right after two balances and alignments. This last one they returned to me with 5 lbs less pressure in the left tire to correct - pretty shady stuff. My salesman says the Continental tires are "crap" and that I need MB to replace them. Have a call into Service Manager.
Have also noticed (just once) the lopsided parking situation once that someone mentioned. Other than my issues, I feel pretty lucky compared to the rest of you.
Shame on me for not doing my homework but with MB I thought I was safe - lesson learned.
The dealer *might* be right. Tires are not perfect and I've had some pretty bad ones over the years that have needed to be replaced. If the balancing requires more than 1.5 or 2 ounces of weights, chances are that the tire is causing most of your problem; it might be out of round. Take the car to a top notch independent suspension/tire shop and have them check the tire/wheel combination. Ask them to check the roundness of the tires as well as the wheels. I even had a bad wheel a few years back that had to be replaced after trying 4 different shops to get it balanced properly. And it was my MB dealer who caught the bad wheel. So they aren't all bad..!!
FWIW, my 96 E320 holds it's alignment for years at a time and that's driving around New England's SMOOTH roads..!!
MB will usually replace wipers under warranty. The correct mix of MB soap is a must, and no topping off with the blue stuff or water. Rain-X can also make a big difference (available at all parts stores). Have heard that restricted steering hoses can cause groaning noises. the hoses on some models include valving that can be noisy. Brake dust problems can be solved by waxing your wheels when waxing your paint. when painted or chrome wheels become dry or contaminated they allow dust to stick. it takes about ten minutes to wax them, and NEVER spray Armor-all so that it gets on the wheels. I spray the brake dust off my wheels with water and no soap.
Pulling in the steering can be caused by Caster arm bushings failing in the front end. In the wet the car may pull to one side for no reason because the new electronic braking has no physical connection between your foot and the brakes. A computer makes assumptions and applies the brakes individually for each wheel and is sometimes wrong.( When the computer or pump fails you're in for a wild time!) The brake pump makes noises always ( a droning noise after every four brake applies and when opening a door). The fix almost works! The squeak noise can be caused by air in the lines. A brake bleed is a slight fix. The BOU (where the master cylinder used to be) may need to be replaced with an updated part. The audio problems are almost fixed now. The Head unit must be software flashed to a newer version, and the audio gateway must also flashed. Ask the dealership for printouts of the before and after software versions. If you go out of town for more than ten days on any MB you may come back to a dead battery due to the current draw of the alarm. If you park in a secure location it may be better not to lock your car as it seems to prvent dead batteries. If you get Tele-aid warnings you may just need a new instrument cluster, or a central gateway. Cars are getting to be just like microsoft software, sometimes they work great, and sometimes they #$@%^$$#%@#%
I have had the exact problems with My E500. They couldn't reproduce the problem, so Mercedes didn't authorize any resolution. The strange break noise was initially fixed with a damper in the break line. After the fix, the noise was still present, but much quieter. Now the noise is completely gone. Since I first drove the car from the show room, I was getting an SOS Defective message on my display center. At first, Mercedes was aware of the problem, but did not have a fix. When I took the car in for service because of the crackling noise, they replaced my instrument cluster to deal with the SOS defective problem. I have not had another occurance of the cracking and sizzling noise since the first occurance.
This is my 3rd Mercedes since I started buying them in 1999. I had a 1999 E320 that never required any problem fix. A 1999 ML320 that had a couple of problems over the 3.5 years of ownership. Now this 2003 E500. I'm not sure that I will buy another Mercedes. My first experience's were good. Mercedes knew how to fix their cars. Now.. Mercedes (I'm talking about the company, not my dealer service) is looking incompetent at diagnosing and fixing their own cars. What pity.. The Icon of most auto buffs is now at the bottom of the heap.. Dreaming of this car would be a nightmare!
My experience with Continental tires, which I have had since 1995, has been very good. My first set (ContiTouring Contact) lasted well over 40k miles and was on the car when I traded. My current set (ContiSport Contact) have almost 11k on them with no abnormal signs of wear.
I do have some balance issues from time to time, but a wheel balance and rotation every 5k miles seems to do the trick. Oh, I should mention they are on a C-Class and not an E-Class, so perhaps your mileage may vary. But I did want to let everyone know that they can be good tires.
I have a E320, 2002, I am getting a little fan noise (whistle with fluctuations in speed). Anyone had this issue before? What was it? I took it to the dealer and he said that the vent was not open. Ah, wrong answer, that did not work.
Before I take it back and they tell me that it's happening because there are clouds in the sky, I would like to find out if someone had the same issue.
Comments
I own a 2000 E430 with the COMAND system & phone which has been problematic from day 7 of ownership. My local MB dealer has responded by replacing parts and modules with no real success. Unfortunately, with the previous E-class, the electrical parts are rebuilt so I am not real comfortable with reliability over time. . . I have talked many owners of MB's who have had a variety of "electrical" problems: C, M, E, S-class cars. My problems are also intermittent which are impossible to really fix. I think the idea is to replace parts with the hope that the problem will be resolved. . .
I have only 23,000 miles on this car and I am not interested in getting another MB at this time. I think MB needs to look hard at the supplier of the electrical components of the cars since this seems to be a problem across the entire line.
Good Luck
by the way, you mentioned you had similar problem on yours, how did you get it fixed? thanks.
As for the car not being level, I too have an E500 w/sport pkg, however, I have not noticed this. I know that the car is supposed to raise and lower itself 1 inch based on driving conditions and the suspension setting. Yesterday when I stopped at a light I could feel the car raising itself and it scared the bejeezies out of me. I never noticed that before.
One last thing, MB should be singing a different tune very soon as far as getting these things fixed. There are MB executives in Wash., DC right now meeting w/automotive experts and such to discuss the fact that their reputation for quality has taken a serious blow. I'll keep you posted.
I have read somewhere in here that someone else's battery went out and the car died, and after installing a new battery, he had to have the radio and windows reset. you think my windows just needed to be reset?? does anyone else know about the problem? thanks.
Any insite would be most helpfull.
Maybe the E Series-Set should consider buying what the people who work for them drive and lead happier, simpler lives? I mean it won't impress a 21 year old valet with a green card, but something with an American made, cast iron V8 that will run like a thief to 100K before it needs new coolant, plugs, etc. isn't to be sneered at.
my 2003 E320 Sport also experienced the same radio problem... after some static, it shuts. This happens very infrequently.
when you get yours fixed, please post the solution in detail.
Thanks.
Also, has anyone else experienced an annoying squeaking noise from the brake pedal?? Sounds like a wet tennis shoe when the brake pedal is pressed. Mine has come and gone a couple of times. Dealer seems perplexed on this one too. Help!
the brakes on mine doesn't make the noise you mentioned. However, as MortorTrend puts it, it is difficult to modulate the brakes to stop in linear/smooth fashion.
perhaps there's a fix for this?
The problem is trying to figure out *which* lifter has the problem. I can replace *all* of them, but remember this is a 24-valve engine, hence 24 lifters at around $50 each. And my technician reminds me that one of the camshafts has the variable timing mechanism making it a much more expensive proposition to remove and replace. If we were sure that the bad lifter was under the other camshaft, even it we could just isolate it to that side, it will be a much easier job.
He took off the valve cover and checked the clearance under each cam, and pressed down on each lifter to see if one sank faster than the others. All 24 of them behave exactly the same.
Does anyone out there have any interesting tricks for identifying which lifter is ticking, at least narrowing it down to either the intake or the exhaust bank?
Thanks,
ATB
What a tragedy for Mercedes to produce their best selling car with one with so many design and quality problems! Next time you really want to get upset, turn the AC on and on a hot day stand outside the car...it sounds like a helicopter under the hood. They went to a single fan this year vs. the two stage from previous models.
After 10 calls within the first 2 days of owning the car, I returned it to the dealer for service. The dealer was able to locate the problem, it's a module that the alarm system is connected to. The service advisor said the module is back ordered, and didn't know when it would arrive. There must be a big demand for these modules. 7 days later I'm still waiting.
I'm longing for my 2001 C320 that I traded in. Never had any problems with it. It's sad to see that MB continues to have quality control problems with its vehicles.....
In any case, rather than going for $1200 worth of new lifters, just get them reconditioned. There may be even people out there that stock rebuilt-exchange lifters for sale. The benefit here is you get a fixed price and instant shipment. While you track that down (maybe even calling the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association in the Chicago area for some names), with your savings maybe you should check into some reground cams?
Good luck.
*whew!*
I have no idea what grade of oil was last put in the car, but we're back on the prescribed diet and all is well. (Except that my mechanic said that my wiring harness is disintegrating and will need to be replaced soon.)
Thanks again,
ATB
So, in other words, tough it out or any suggestions?
oh, the Tele Aid problem-- there was a moderate recall on speaker volume which i had replaced and since then it works well.
Thanks
1. The readio volume control on the console would sometimes not work...the control on the steering wheel always worked. They replaced the radion. It appears to work okay now.
2. A rear window would not always work with express up. They said that it could not be reproduced and did nothing.
3. I complained about a drive train resonance that could be felt on smooth roads at around 65 MPH within the first 4 miles from cold start. They replaced a broken mount on a crossmember support. This fixed the problem and has reduced the background noise when driving significantly.
4. Cruise control would down shift when going down a slope to hold the speed, but would not up shift when coming to a level. They made some adjustments but did not fix the problem.
Other item: Break pads remaining on front 70% on the rear 80%. Seems that we may get close to 40K miles on the front pads.
Bob
Have also noticed (just once) the lopsided parking situation once that someone mentioned. Other than my issues, I feel pretty lucky compared to the rest of you.
Shame on me for not doing my homework but with MB I thought I was safe - lesson learned.
FWIW, my 96 E320 holds it's alignment for years at a time and that's driving around New England's SMOOTH roads..!!
Have heard that restricted steering hoses can cause groaning noises. the hoses on some models include valving that can be noisy.
Brake dust problems can be solved by waxing your wheels when waxing your paint. when painted or chrome wheels become dry or contaminated they allow dust to stick. it takes about ten minutes to wax them, and NEVER spray Armor-all so that it gets on the wheels. I spray the brake dust off my wheels with water and no soap.
In the wet the car may pull to one side for no reason because the new electronic braking has no physical connection between your foot and the brakes. A computer makes assumptions and applies the brakes individually for each wheel and is sometimes wrong.( When the computer or pump fails you're in for a wild time!)
The brake pump makes noises always ( a droning noise after every four brake applies and when opening a door). The fix almost works!
The squeak noise can be caused by air in the lines. A brake bleed is a slight fix. The BOU (where the master cylinder used to be) may need to be replaced with an updated part.
The audio problems are almost fixed now. The Head unit must be software flashed to a newer version, and the audio gateway must also flashed. Ask the dealership for printouts of the before and after software versions.
If you go out of town for more than ten days on any MB you may come back to a dead battery due to the current draw of the alarm. If you park in a secure location it may be better not to lock your car as it seems to prvent dead batteries.
If you get Tele-aid warnings you may just need a new instrument cluster, or a central gateway.
Cars are getting to be just like microsoft software, sometimes they work great, and sometimes they #$@%^$$#%@#%
This is my 3rd Mercedes since I started buying them in 1999. I had a 1999 E320 that never required any problem fix. A 1999 ML320 that had a couple of problems over the 3.5 years of ownership. Now this 2003 E500. I'm not sure that I will buy another Mercedes. My first experience's were good. Mercedes knew how to fix their cars. Now.. Mercedes (I'm talking about the company, not my dealer service) is looking incompetent at diagnosing and fixing their own cars. What pity.. The Icon of most auto buffs is now at the bottom of the heap.. Dreaming of this car would be a nightmare!
I do have some balance issues from time to time, but a wheel balance and rotation every 5k miles seems to do the trick. Oh, I should mention they are on a C-Class and not an E-Class, so perhaps your mileage may vary. But I did want to let everyone know that they can be good tires.
Before I take it back and they tell me that it's happening because there are clouds in the sky, I would like to find out if someone had the same issue.
Thanks!