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Keeping Up With Maintenance - 1966 Chevrolet Corvette Long-Term Road Test
Edmunds.com
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Keeping Up With Maintenance - 1966 Chevrolet Corvette Long-Term Road Test
Surprise! After about 600 miles of use, our 1966 Chevrolet Corvette needs a quart of oil and some air for the tires.
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I'd really like to see the bloggers that are most handy do a few of these projects on the Vette and document how they researched (YouTube, Corvette Forum, etc), where they shopped for parts and how long it took them to fix the issue. All of this should be helpfully documented with pictures.
IMHO, you guys are really blowing a great opportunity for more clicks and a solid following.
I would prefer though if they actually fixed the failure points once identified, and do it properly.
There are now three cars on the fleet like this - the Miata, the Yugo (you'll see), and this one.
This is car maintenance 101...more like the high school prerequisite for car maintenance 101.
SMH...SMH...
http://www.cartalk.com/content/when-are-you-supposed-check-your-oil-when
RAY: But a few years ago, Ford Motor Company started recommending that people check their oil on Fords, Lincolns and Mercuries when the engine was warm.
TOM: "Warm!" we said. "How can this be?" So we called Ford and they told us that they determined that very few idiots like us were going out first thing in the morning in their bare tootsies and checking the oil. Most people, they said, tended to check their oil when they stopped for gas, when the engine was warm. So they simply recalibrated their dipsticks to read correctly in a warm engine, when the oil has heated up and expanded.
........
RAY: He said the amount of oil at the top of the engine wouldn't be enough to make any significant difference. "Unless the oil passages are all plugged up, you're probably talking about an eighth of a quart or less," he said. Not enough to induce you to add a quart when you don't really need one.
TOM: So there you have it, folks. The answer is; it hardly matters. So our advice is to follow the instructions in your owner's manual when you're in the mood for a really accurate reading. If it says to check the oil cold, the dipstick has been calibrated for cold, unexpanded oil. If it says to check it warm, we and Deep Dipstick hereby give you our heartfelt blessings.
Why is this getting 20W50 motor oil? Contrary to what some might believe depending on exactly what is being purchased it might not be as thick as a 5W40 Euro spec oil (ACEA A3/B4). Depending on how recently the engine was rebuilt and exactly what camshaft is in this it might be necessary to add a ZDP/ZDDP additive to todays SM or SN standard products. An SL (obsolete) would be marginal in some cases and satisfactory in others. But a 20W50 isn't as regulated of a product like the more common grades (0W20, 5W20, 5W30 etc.) and the base stock could be anything.
Anyway, you did check it cold (surely the method specified in the manual back in 1966) and it's low.
I wonder about the zinc package they are using...also about the heads...if it has been given hardened valve seats, or they're using a lead additive.
Also wondered about the dimmer switch repair and how that went down...check Dan Edmunds' Twitter feed back in mid-June...